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Old November 22nd 15, 06:07 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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On the basis that someone must manufacture the things in the first place,
has anyone much experience of disassembling volume controls and
the like to deal with scratchiness, for AIUI, injecting WD40 although
seeming
to provide an interim solution (sic) only stores up problems for the future.


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Old November 22nd 15, 07:45 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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On Sun, 22 Nov 2015, gareth wrote:

On the basis that someone must manufacture the things in the first place,
has anyone much experience of disassembling volume controls and
the like to deal with scratchiness, for AIUI, injecting WD40 although
seeming
to provide an interim solution (sic) only stores up problems for the future.



WD40 is not a good choice, though some may have used it in emergencies.

IT depends on the potentiometer. A lot of the old ones could be pried
open, little tabs at the front. But there are also fancier ones that are
sealed up in plastic casing, I'm not sure if those can be opened, though
hopefully some of the dirt problem is fixed. Maybe drilling a tiny hole
(like for component leads on a circuit board) and then dripping some
cleaner in would work?

Michael

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Old November 22nd 15, 08:48 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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On 11/22/2015 1:45 PM, Michael Black wrote:
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015, gareth wrote:

On the basis that someone must manufacture the things in the first place,
has anyone much experience of disassembling volume controls and
the like to deal with scratchiness, for AIUI, injecting WD40 although
seeming
to provide an interim solution (sic) only stores up problems for the
future.



WD40 is not a good choice, though some may have used it in emergencies.

IT depends on the potentiometer. A lot of the old ones could be pried
open, little tabs at the front. But there are also fancier ones that
are sealed up in plastic casing, I'm not sure if those can be opened,
though hopefully some of the dirt problem is fixed. Maybe drilling a
tiny hole (like for component leads on a circuit board) and then
dripping some cleaner in would work?

Michael


I remember some 40+ years ago when I part-timed for a CB shop. A guy
brought in a radio with a broken squelch control. His son tried to fix
it with WD-40 or something similar.

Of course, it didn't work (taking the control apart, the wiper was
broken). Charged him $15 for the repair (remember this was a long time
ago!) and $25 to clean up the oil all over the case.

I doubt his son tried that one again!

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Old November 22nd 15, 09:41 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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In message , Jerry Stuckle
writes
On 11/22/2015 1:45 PM, Michael Black wrote:
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015, gareth wrote:

On the basis that someone must manufacture the things in the first place,
has anyone much experience of disassembling volume controls and
the like to deal with scratchiness, for AIUI, injecting WD40 although
seeming
to provide an interim solution (sic) only stores up problems for the
future.



WD40 is not a good choice, though some may have used it in emergencies.

IT depends on the potentiometer. A lot of the old ones could be pried
open, little tabs at the front. But there are also fancier ones that
are sealed up in plastic casing, I'm not sure if those can be opened,
though hopefully some of the dirt problem is fixed. Maybe drilling a
tiny hole (like for component leads on a circuit board) and then
dripping some cleaner in would work?

Michael


I remember some 40+ years ago when I part-timed for a CB shop. A guy
brought in a radio with a broken squelch control. His son tried to fix
it with WD-40 or something similar.

Of course, it didn't work (taking the control apart, the wiper was
broken).


WD40's good - but not good enough to mend broken wipers!

Charged him $15 for the repair (remember this was a long time
ago!) and $25 to clean up the oil all over the case.

I doubt his son tried that one again!

On the occasions when I've used WD40 on pots, fan bearings etc, it
hasn't caused any subsequent problems. But, of course, you must use it
vary sparingly.

--
Ian
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Old November 22nd 15, 09:44 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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"Michael Black" wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1511221343390.19205@darkstar. example.org...
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015, gareth wrote:

On the basis that someone must manufacture the things in the first place,
has anyone much experience of disassembling volume controls and
the like to deal with scratchiness, for AIUI, injecting WD40 although
seeming
to provide an interim solution (sic) only stores up problems for the
future.

WD40 is not a good choice, though some may have used it in emergencies.

IT depends on the potentiometer. A lot of the old ones could be pried
open, little tabs at the front. But there are also fancier ones that are
sealed up in plastic casing, I'm not sure if those can be opened, though
hopefully some of the dirt problem is fixed. Maybe drilling a tiny hole
(like for component leads on a circuit board) and then dripping some
cleaner in would work?


It's the dual gang vol / tone on an FRG7700, which is a plumber's nightmare
of disassembly,
so I want to be sure of my route before setting out on it.




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Old November 22nd 15, 10:05 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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En el artículo , Ian Jackson
escribió:

On the occasions when I've used WD40 on pots, fan bearings etc, it
hasn't caused any subsequent problems.


"proper" contact cleaner works better and doesn't pick up contaminants
like WD40 does.

But, of course, you must use it
vary sparingly.


Indeed, and at the force it comes out of the can, that can be tricky.
Spraying it into a small snootiness and using the tip of a screwdriver
to transfer it works. But for pots, switches, etc., it's still better
to use contact cleaner made for the job.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke!
(")_(")
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Old November 22nd 15, 10:09 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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gareth wrote:

It's the dual gang vol / tone on an FRG7700, which is a plumber's nightmare
of disassembly,
so I want to be sure of my route before setting out on it.


I have had good results with old volume controls by carefully putting
ONE DROP of the red DeOxit liquid inside and ONE DROP of their "fader lube".

Slowly move it from low to high and back again a few times with the power off.

Occasionally, I have had to repeat it several times, but never more than
one drop at a time.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

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Old November 22nd 15, 10:30 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , Ian Jackson
escribió:

On the occasions when I've used WD40 on pots, fan bearings etc, it
hasn't caused any subsequent problems.


"proper" contact cleaner works better and doesn't pick up contaminants
like WD40 does.

But, of course, you must use it
vary sparingly.


Indeed, and at the force it comes out of the can, that can be tricky.
Spraying it into a small snootiness and using the tip of a screwdriver
to transfer it works. But for pots, switches, etc., it's still better
to use contact cleaner made for the job.

Unfortunately, the last time I saw my Electrolube dispenser (with the
pull-out nozzle) was over 40 years ago - but I've always got some WD40
(or similar) at hand. Actually, white spirit etc also works, and has the
advantage (or disadvantage) of eventually leaving no lubrication.
--
Ian
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Old November 22nd 15, 11:12 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Oct 2012
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On 11/22/2015 4:05 PM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Ian Jackson
escribió:

On the occasions when I've used WD40 on pots, fan bearings etc, it
hasn't caused any subsequent problems.


"proper" contact cleaner works better and doesn't pick up contaminants
like WD40 does.

But, of course, you must use it
vary sparingly.


Indeed, and at the force it comes out of the can, that can be tricky.
Spraying it into a small snootiness and using the tip of a screwdriver
to transfer it works. But for pots, switches, etc., it's still better
to use contact cleaner made for the job.


Exactly. I would never use WD40 on an electrical/electronic device.

--
==================
Remove the "x" from my email address
Jerry, AI0K

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Old November 22nd 15, 11:23 PM posted to uk.radio.amateur,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Mar 2011
Posts: 79
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On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 17:12:50 -0500, Jerry Stuckle
wrote:

On 11/22/2015 4:05 PM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , Ian Jackson
escribió:

On the occasions when I've used WD40 on pots, fan bearings etc, it
hasn't caused any subsequent problems.


"proper" contact cleaner works better and doesn't pick up contaminants
like WD40 does.

But, of course, you must use it
vary sparingly.


Indeed, and at the force it comes out of the can, that can be tricky.
Spraying it into a small snootiness and using the tip of a screwdriver
to transfer it works. But for pots, switches, etc., it's still better
to use contact cleaner made for the job.


Exactly. I would never use WD40 on an electrical/electronic device.


Correct..Servisol is the way to go. But if the track is worn or
damaged then replacement is the only long term solution.
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