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Old March 20th 04, 05:11 PM
Paul
 
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Default Aluminum Corrosion Removal Techniques

What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s)
aluminum chassis?

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Old March 20th 04, 11:44 PM
Dave Stadt
 
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Scotch bright pads

"Paul" wrote in message
...
What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s)
aluminum chassis?



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Old March 22nd 04, 06:08 AM
Jim
 
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Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum
wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull
with an equal amount of elbow grease.

From: "Dave Stadt"
Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:44:09 GMT
Subject: Aluminum Corrosion Removal Techniques

Scotch bright pads


"Paul" wrote in message
What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s)
aluminum chassis?


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Old March 23rd 04, 04:52 AM
Dave Stadt
 
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"Jim" wrote in message
...
Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum
wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull
with an equal amount of elbow grease.


That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of
the corrosion.


From: "Dave Stadt"
Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:44:09 GMT
Subject: Aluminum Corrosion Removal Techniques

Scotch bright pads


"Paul" wrote in message
What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s)
aluminum chassis?




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Old March 23rd 04, 12:31 PM
 
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On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 04:52:58 UTC, "Dave Stadt"
wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum
wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull
with an equal amount of elbow grease.


That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of
the corrosion.


Which is what? Air?

wheel polish should work just fine.

de ah6gi/4



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Old March 23rd 04, 02:09 PM
Chuck Harris
 
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No Spam wrote:

That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of
the corrosion.



Which is what? Air?

wheel polish should work just fine.

de ah6gi/4


Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms
a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic.

Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction
with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really
eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove
or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum.

-Chuck Harris
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Old March 23rd 04, 04:27 PM
Steve Nosko
 
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Default


"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
No Spam wrote:

That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause

of
the corrosion.



Which is what? Air?

wheel polish should work just fine.

de ah6gi/4


Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms
a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic.

Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction
with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really
eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove
or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum.
-Chuck Harris


Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide layer.
It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. In air, Aluminum
instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely
protect it. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows thicker
and unevenly causing the pitting. Perhaps there are other mechanisms.
Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers
attack the aluminum as well...

There is also a popular aircraft aluminum polish. Don't recall the name.
--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.


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Old March 24th 04, 12:33 AM
David
 
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Here's are some other ideas from the metalworking newsgroup:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...readm=20010319
151227.24203.00002372%40ng-fx1.aol.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dflitz%2Balu
minum%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3D20010319151227.24
203.00002372%2540ng-fx1.aol.com%26rnum%3D1

But my favorite is Flitz
http://www.flitz.com/

-dave

"Steve Nosko" wrote in message
...

"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
No Spam wrote:

That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the

cause
of
the corrosion.



Which is what? Air?

wheel polish should work just fine.

de ah6gi/4


Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms
a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic.

Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction
with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really
eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove
or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum.
-Chuck Harris


Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide

layer.
It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. In air, Aluminum
instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely
protect it. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows

thicker
and unevenly causing the pitting. Perhaps there are other mechanisms.
Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers
attack the aluminum as well...

There is also a popular aircraft aluminum polish. Don't recall the name.
--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.




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Old June 14th 04, 07:15 AM
nospamapson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"David" wrote in
:

Here's are some other ideas from the metalworking newsgroup:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...-8&threadm=200
10319
151227.24203.00002372%40ng-fx1.aol.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dflitz%
2Balu
minum%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3D200103191512
27.24 203.00002372%2540ng-fx1.aol.com%26rnum%3D1

But my favorite is Flitz
http://www.flitz.com/

-dave

"Steve Nosko" wrote in message
...

"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
No Spam wrote:

That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the

cause
of
the corrosion.



Which is what? Air?

wheel polish should work just fine.

de ah6gi/4

Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly
forms a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic.

Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction
with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will
really eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need
to remove or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the
aluminum. -Chuck Harris


Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide

layer.
It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly.


Not exactly, but close. Magnesium is at the top of the list when
discussing corrosion.

In air, Aluminum instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this
obviously doesn't completely protect it.


This is true primarily for pure aluminum. If you see raw sheet metal
stock with an Alcad marking on it, it is aluminum alloy with a thin
plating of pure aluminum for protection.

However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows

thicker
and unevenly causing the pitting.


Since most aluminum products are alloys, there is a strong possibility
for galvanic corrosion any time it is not protected. Even common tap
water, with its mineral content, will aid the corrosion process. Google
"galvanic series" for more info. Here's a link to one table:
http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm

Perhaps there are other mechanisms. Sulfur in the air can slowly
vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers attack the aluminum as
well...


As stated above, most aluminum corrosion is galvanic in nature.
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