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Old October 10th 16, 08:30 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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Posts: 9
Default Coax entry into house

Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


--
Tekkie
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Old October 10th 16, 08:46 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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Posts: 67
Default Coax entry into house

Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


What I did, for my ingress points, was to mount a standard square
metal "outlet box" on both the inside and outside of the wall. These
boxes have punch-out openings in the back which are of a good size to
accept a standard piece of male-threaded iron pipe (a "pipe nipple")
that's long enough to go through the wall. The pipe nipple isn't
large enough in diamater to allow a coax fitting to slide through it,
but is large enough to take the coax itself... this means that you're
likely to have to install the N or PL-259 connector after feeding the
coax through.

I actually fed four coaxes into the house, through a pair of pipe
nipples located in the diagonally-opposite positions in the box. I
then "punched out" four of the side positions in the box mounted on
the outside wall, and mounted female N connectors in the holes. Each
N connector is wired to a length of RG-8X, which is fed through one of
the pipe nipples, out through a punch-out in the bottom of the box on
the inside of the wall, and up to the back of the desk where my rigs
are located.

The outside box is connected to a ground rod, which is also hooked to
a heavy wire that bonds it to the main building ground system. I've
got some N-connector Polyphaser surge suppressors connected to the
female N connectors on the outside box, and the coaxes to the antennas
connect to these.

As to how long a tail you want: you can either bring in a tail that's
long enough to reach your operating position without tripping anybody,
or you can install a short tail and (e.g.) female connector, to which
you then connect a suitable jumper cable to your rig. You don't even
really need a coax tail - you could install a box or panel inside
which has several female connectors on it. This would probably be the
neatest sort of indoor installation, as you can detach all of the
coaxes from it if you wish in order to clean or to rearrange the room
or etc.

Other options are available. MFJ makes ingress panels, with
connectors and/or sliding gaskets for a coax to fit through. They
make them for in-window mounting, and for replacing a soffit vent in
an under-the-eaves mounting position.

If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring
the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal
around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the
floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or,
cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it.




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Old October 10th 16, 09:00 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Sep 2007
Posts: 135
Default Coax entry into house

On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:30:58 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


Anything works if you live in a moderate climate.
Temperatures below freezing point can make problems.
We often have to replace cables which are warm inside
and freezing outside due to water condensate.
The air inside can diffuse through the cable
and cables must prevent air circulation inside by foam filling
and airtight sealed N connectors.
Avoid the use of PL239 by all means, the shielded banana plug
belongs into the thrash bin.
"UHF connector" really means: Unsuited for High Frequencies.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UHF_connector

w.
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Old October 11th 16, 07:14 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 9
Default Coax entry into house

Helmut Wabnig posted for all of us...



On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:30:58 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


Anything works if you live in a moderate climate.
Temperatures below freezing point can make problems.
We often have to replace cables which are warm inside
and freezing outside due to water condensate.
The air inside can diffuse through the cable
and cables must prevent air circulation inside by foam filling
and airtight sealed N connectors.
Avoid the use of PL239 by all means, the shielded banana plug
belongs into the thrash bin.
"UHF connector" really means: Unsuited for High Frequencies.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UHF_connector

w.


Thanks for the info. A consideration.

--
Tekkie
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Old October 11th 16, 07:20 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 9
Default Coax entry into house

Dave Platt posted for all of us...



Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


What I did, for my ingress points, was to mount a standard square
metal "outlet box" on both the inside and outside of the wall. These
boxes have punch-out openings in the back which are of a good size to
accept a standard piece of male-threaded iron pipe (a "pipe nipple")
that's long enough to go through the wall. The pipe nipple isn't
large enough in diamater to allow a coax fitting to slide through it,
but is large enough to take the coax itself... this means that you're
likely to have to install the N or PL-259 connector after feeding the
coax through.

I actually fed four coaxes into the house, through a pair of pipe
nipples located in the diagonally-opposite positions in the box. I
then "punched out" four of the side positions in the box mounted on
the outside wall, and mounted female N connectors in the holes. Each
N connector is wired to a length of RG-8X, which is fed through one of
the pipe nipples, out through a punch-out in the bottom of the box on
the inside of the wall, and up to the back of the desk where my rigs
are located.

The outside box is connected to a ground rod, which is also hooked to
a heavy wire that bonds it to the main building ground system. I've
got some N-connector Polyphaser surge suppressors connected to the
female N connectors on the outside box, and the coaxes to the antennas
connect to these.

As to how long a tail you want: you can either bring in a tail that's
long enough to reach your operating position without tripping anybody,
or you can install a short tail and (e.g.) female connector, to which
you then connect a suitable jumper cable to your rig. You don't even
really need a coax tail - you could install a box or panel inside
which has several female connectors on it. This would probably be the
neatest sort of indoor installation, as you can detach all of the
coaxes from it if you wish in order to clean or to rearrange the room
or etc.

Other options are available. MFJ makes ingress panels, with
connectors and/or sliding gaskets for a coax to fit through. They
make them for in-window mounting, and for replacing a soffit vent in
an under-the-eaves mounting position.

If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring
the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal
around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the
floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or,
cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it.


Thank you for the reply. I don't know if I have the resources to do a first
class job like this.

--
Tekkie
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Old October 11th 16, 08:11 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 702
Default Coax entry into house

In article , says...

Ralph Mowery posted for all of us...



Look for a MFJ 4601

This link has a video showing how it works.


http://www.gigaparts.com/Product-Lin...MFJ-4601.html?
gclid=CjwKEAjw-
Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1fKzxhfswaQQhmxRiMMfAkFO ZSikn059-
1pshYzBSIhoCo57w_wcB


Thanks for the reply; not to be critical but I don't know how to seal the
gap where the the lower and upper sashs' are offset.


One thing you coluld try would be to get some of the foam rubber type
stuff that is made to insulate the water pipes. Stuff it in the crack
and cut to the length you need.



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Old October 11th 16, 08:14 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,898
Default Coax entry into house

Tekkie® wrote:
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the
wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail
should brought into the room?


You can buy 8 inch long PL-259 barrel connectors on the Internet.

Drill a 5/8 hole through the wall. Put a hardware store 5/8 fender
washer on both sides and caulking under the outside washer.

Seal up the outside cable connector.

Very slight loss at 2M, but negligable below that.

This assumes you have 6 inch walls, if not they are available up to
12 inches long.

http://www.americanradiosupply.com/s...lkhead&x=0&y=0



--
Jim Pennino
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Old October 12th 16, 12:05 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Nov 2012
Posts: 989
Default Coax entry into house

On 10/11/2016 3:11 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...

Ralph Mowery posted for all of us...



Look for a MFJ 4601

This link has a video showing how it works.


http://www.gigaparts.com/Product-Lin...MFJ-4601.html?
gclid=CjwKEAjw-
Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1fKzxhfswaQQhmxRiMMfAkFO ZSikn059-
1pshYzBSIhoCo57w_wcB


Thanks for the reply; not to be critical but I don't know how to seal the
gap where the the lower and upper sashs' are offset.


One thing you coluld try would be to get some of the foam rubber type
stuff that is made to insulate the water pipes. Stuff it in the crack
and cut to the length you need.


That's how they do it to seal for window air conditioner units.

--

Rick C
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