Anybody know anything about this one?

http://www.onemantowers.com/index.html

Alan AB2OS

Minnie Bannister wrote:
Anybody know anything about this one?
http://www.onemantowers.com/index.html

A self-supporting 50 foot tower in a 100 mph wind would have to have
a pretty good foundation. Better obtain their foundation cost specs
before buying the tower.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp



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Minnie Bannister wrote:
Anybody know anything about this one?
http://www.onemantowers.com/index.html

A self-supporting 50 foot tower in a 100 mph wind would have to have
a pretty good foundation. Better obtain their foundation cost specs
before buying the tower.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Yea, allow about 6 to 10 yards of concrete for starters.
Not sure how big of a hole that would take right off in dimensions.

On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 23:34:34 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


Minnie Bannister wrote:
Anybody know anything about this one?
http://www.onemantowers.com/index.html

A self-supporting 50 foot tower in a 100 mph wind would have to have
a pretty good foundation. Better obtain their foundation cost specs
before buying the tower.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Yea, allow about 6 to 10 yards of concrete for starters.
Not sure how big of a hole that would take right off in dimensions.

That's in the ballpark of a small concrete house foundation, isn't it?

That would be 162 cu ft (for 6 yards of concrete) or
10 x 10 x 1.6 ft, or
6 x 6 x 4.5 ft.

For reference, 10 yards is the typical capacity of a cement mixer
truck.

For any project, you need to look at the total cost of installation
and all components, not just the primary component.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Yea, allow about 6 to 10 yards of concrete for starters.
Not sure how big of a hole that would take right off in dimensions.

That's in the ballpark of a small concrete house foundation, isn't it?

That would be 162 cu ft (for 6 yards of concrete) or
10 x 10 x 1.6 ft, or
6 x 6 x 4.5 ft.

For reference, 10 yards is the typical capacity of a cement mixer
truck.

For any project, you need to look at the total cost of installation
and all components, not just the primary component.

As you have shown there are many ways to pour the material . I am sure the
tower maker has their recommendations. I doubt it would do much good to
have it only 1.5 feet deep and 10 feet wide. I would think it would be
poured in more of a cubic form but deeper than it is wide. Also there is
all the rebar to install correctly and if it is like some Rohn tower there
is a specification of some rocks and sand at the bottom of the hole.
Towers are not somthing youjust stick up and hope for the best.

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:33:38 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

As you have shown there are many ways to pour the material . I am sure the
tower maker has their recommendations. I doubt it would do much good to
have it only 1.5 feet deep and 10 feet wide. I would think it would be
poured in more of a cubic form but deeper than it is wide. Also there is
all the rebar to install correctly and if it is like some Rohn tower there
is a specification of some rocks and sand at the bottom of the hole.
Towers are not somthing youjust stick up and hope for the best.

Agreed, it is not something to make up as you go along. You should
have something designed by a civil engineer, including off-the-shelf
designs.

This would simplify getting a building permit, especially if your town
engineer is unfamiliar with antenna towers. Might make your next-door
neighbor happier, too.

This includes how the bedding under the foundation is handled.
Adjustment for frostline in your area is needed as well.

A non-guyed tower is especially dependent on the strength of its
foundation, and if you do the math of the windload leveraged from the
top of the tower, some rather impressive forces are generated.

The rebar needs to be tied together both physically and electrically,
and thought needs to be given to grounding, both for lightning/short
circuits and for a radio counterpoise.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Just as an example, US Tower specifies a concrete slab of 4 x 4 x 7 for
their 72 foot self supporting crank up. Looking at their chart, the depth is
always more than the width.. Their spec is for 50 mph. So, for 100 mph, the
4x4x7 would be good for around 35 - 40 feet of tower.

Tam/WB2TT
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

Yea, allow about 6 to 10 yards of concrete for starters.
Not sure how big of a hole that would take right off in dimensions.

That's in the ballpark of a small concrete house foundation, isn't it?

That would be 162 cu ft (for 6 yards of concrete) or
10 x 10 x 1.6 ft, or
6 x 6 x 4.5 ft.

For reference, 10 yards is the typical capacity of a cement mixer
truck.

For any project, you need to look at the total cost of installation
and all components, not just the primary component.

As you have shown there are many ways to pour the material . I am sure
the
tower maker has their recommendations. I doubt it would do much good to
have it only 1.5 feet deep and 10 feet wide. I would think it would be
poured in more of a cubic form but deeper than it is wide. Also there is
all the rebar to install correctly and if it is like some Rohn tower there
is a specification of some rocks and sand at the bottom of the hole.
Towers are not somthing youjust stick up and hope for the best.

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:33:38 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


Yea, allow about 6 to 10 yards of concrete for starters.
Not sure how big of a hole that would take right off in dimensions.

That's in the ballpark of a small concrete house foundation, isn't it?

That would be 162 cu ft (for 6 yards of concrete) or
10 x 10 x 1.6 ft, or
6 x 6 x 4.5 ft.

For reference, 10 yards is the typical capacity of a cement mixer
truck.

For any project, you need to look at the total cost of installation
and all components, not just the primary component.


I figure I have as much invested in concrete as I do in the tower and
mine is guyed. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower.htm

As you have shown there are many ways to pour the material . I am sure the
tower maker has their recommendations. I doubt it would do much good to
have it only 1.5 feet deep and 10 feet wide. I would think it would be

Although it's not normally recommended to go that way, the weight is
the stabilizing factor to be considered.

poured in more of a cubic form but deeper than it is wide. Also there is

A cube is normally fine, but still, there are zoning restrictions and
the engineering standards by which to abide. With ROHN they come
right out and give you the specs.

Disclaimer: Do not use my calculations for anything other than an
examples. Refer to the specific pages in the ROHN catalog for actual
requirements.

Going over the catalog they list the base for a free standing ROHN
45-G as requiring 4.1 yards of concrete. That makes the assumption
the builder will strictly adherer to the ROHN Specs and maximum wind
loading. Based on the 45 G specs the concrete base will be 5'3" on a
side, or for a ball park figure that is 27.5 sq ft. A cubic yard is 3
X 3 X 3 or 27 cubic feet. Sooo... we can figure *roughly* with a base
of those dimensions, each foot of depth equals one yard of concrete.
Then the base would be 4 feet deep and 5' 3" square.
BUT the 45 G is limited to only 11.4 sq ft of wind load at 45 feet
when free standing with a 70 MPH wind limitation and no ice.
(certainly they do have a healthy safety factor built into those
calculations.

Using the same calculations for a 65-G results in 8.9 cubic yards of
concrete and *roughly* 65 feet for an 11 sq ft wind load at 70 MPH and
no ice. This tower base is 7' 9" square, or 60 cubic feet for each
foot of depth. That is 2.2 cubic yards. So, 8.0/2.2 surprise 4 feet
deep again.

It turns out, in my guyed installation I also happened to have about 9
yards of concrete. 1.5 yards at the base and the rest evenly divided
between the guy anchors. I used slightly more concrete than required
in the base.

On thing emphasized by ROHN is there will be *no* welding of the
reinforcements/rerod in the concrete. All the reinforcements are free
floating. They have a whole set of specifications on those as well.

all the rebar to install correctly and if it is like some Rohn tower there
is a specification of some rocks and sand at the bottom of the hole.

6 inches of compacted sand and gravel for a drainage bed.

There is also a specification as to the soil in the sides of the hole
and requires soil samples to verify the soil is strong enough to meet
their specs. Otherwise more concrete is required and I don't have the
figures for that.

Towers are not somthing youjust stick up and hope for the best.


At least nothing more than a small TV antenna tower installation.
This is probably the main reason the insurance companies don't want to
see towers bracketed to the end of a house, or to the eves. My
insurance carrier was willing to insure mine as long as there was no
direct connection to the house. (coax doesn't count)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

All that I know about this particular tower is what I've
seen on the website given. I think raising the tower sections
in this way is a pretty 'niffy' idea. As for the rest of the
tower, it seems like just another 'square' tower with something
like the 'hazer' added. Nothing wrong with it as far as I could
see, but also not really anything 'special'.
As Cecil said, any 'free standing' tower needs to have a very
good (and large) base under it. Of course, that depends a lot
on
the type of soil it's in, but compared to a guyed tower in the
same 'dirt', get ready for a suprise when you find out just how
big that base has to be (then hang on to your wallet).
I think the 'unsafe' guys in the advertising is a bit much.
Sure, guys are not something to play on/around, and you do have
to
pay attention so that you don't 'clothes line' your self, but
are
they as 'unsafe' as implied? I doubt it. At least, not if they
are done right.
Can't say it isn't a nice tower, but I think you could do
just
as well with another brand at a much cheaper total price. Then
again,
I didn't see a price...
'Doc

"'Doc" wrote in message ...
All that I know about this particular tower is what I've
seen on the website given. I think raising the tower sections
in this way is a pretty 'niffy' idea. As for the rest of the
tower, it seems like just another 'square' tower with something
like the 'hazer' added. Nothing wrong with it as far as I could
see, but also not really anything 'special'.

The one thing I don't like about it... I don't
see any triangles, anywhere. All square
construction. This causes it to rely on the
material, rather than the design, for strength.

Self-supporting towers should taper... is this
not obvious?
__
Steve
KI5YG
..