Tam/WB2TT wrote:

Andiroo wrote:
All

Is it possible to check the quality of a coax connection to a PL259
plug without taking the plug apart - i.e. simply by using a
multimeter?

Many thanks

Andy

In a newly installed connector, the most common fault, by far, is a short
from the center conductor to shield. Also, make sure that the opening in
the
center pin is completely filled with solder. For small coax, I usually
stuff
short pieces of heavier wire in there before soldering. You need a fairly
large iron to solder the shield. I found a ~200 W soldering gun works OK.

Tam/WB2TT

There are many ways to install the 83-1SP/PL-259 plugs. The instructions
given on the Amphenol website
(http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf) will show
the basics. In addition to what Tam says (use LOTS of soldering iron/gun
heat, and get in/out fast), I found a way to solder the plugs that have
nickel plating on the connector body.

Nickel doesn't like to solder worth a darn, and it will take lots of heat to
burn through it. By the time you do, the cable dielectric (and possibly the
insulator on the cheaper plugs) will turn to mush. It's worse with foamed
polyethylene vs solid polyethylene coaxial cable. Before assembling the
plug onto the cable, remove the plating on the inside circumference of the
plug. A small round file, X-acto knife, or 1/8" drill bit will do the
trick. My soldering "weapon of choice" is a Weller #8200 100/140W unit.

If using RG-58, you have the option of using an Amphenol "field crimp plug",
PN 83-58-FCP which requires no soldering, no special installation (crimping)
tools, and works VERY well. Larsen supplies them in their permanent
mounting kits. I intalled lots of them at a previous gig. One day, I did a
test of how well they hang onto the cable. I installed one on a scrap piece
of cable, hooked the connector into a vise, and pulled on the cable until
something gave. The cable broke. They're $2.92 each (in QTY = 10 to 24)
from Digi-Key.

Bryan WA7PRC