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Fan Dipole insight
I am very very proud that I hung a 80-Meter dipole about 100 feet
above my QTH last week. But I also had a hankering to cover 40 Meters with it too (although I already had a 40 Meter dipole). So the section in the antenna book about fan dipoles came to mind. I looked in the ARRL antenna book, it told me that the seperation of wires was not all that important. So I sort-of duplicated one of the sketches in the book, and hung the 40 meter wire from an tiny little egg insulator on the 80 meter wire. Result: DID NOT WORK AT ALL. No indication of any kind of antenna resonance anywere from 5 to 9 MHz. Sky-high SWR over the whole range. It didn't mess up 80-meter operation, though. Looked at W4RNL's "My Top 5 Backyard Multi-Band Antennas". The fan dipole is in there, but not in the way it looked in the ARRL book. He says you need a big spacer at the end of the line, like 10 feet, to get consistent results. He has some other notes about modeling Fan dipoles at http://www.antennex.com/w4rnl/col0507/amod111.html I give it a shot, and holy moly, it looks like this should work. Maybe some bigger spacing would result in a bit more bandwidth but I'm mostly working at the bottom of the CW band. So I'm going to find some skinny 10-foot fiberglass poles and try re- rigging this weekend. Tim N3QE |
Fan Dipole insight
Tim Shoppa wrote:
I am very very proud that I hung a 80-Meter dipole about 100 feet above my QTH last week. But I also had a hankering to cover 40 Meters with it too (although I already had a 40 Meter dipole). So the section in the antenna book about fan dipoles came to mind. Feed it with 450 ohm ladder-line and you can cover 40m simply by changing the length of the ladder-line with no tuner required. Please reference: http://www.w5dxp.com/notuner.htm -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
Fan Dipole insight
On Nov 2, 2:54 pm, Tim Shoppa wrote:
I am very very proud that I hung a 80-Meter dipole about 100 feet above my QTH last week. But I also had a hankering to cover 40 Meters with it too (although I already had a 40 Meter dipole). So the section in the antenna book about fan dipoles came to mind. I looked in the ARRL antenna book, it told me that the seperation of wires was not all that important. So I sort-of duplicated one of the sketches in the book, and hung the 40 meter wire from an tiny little egg insulator on the 80 meter wire. I've been running those for years. Placing the wires closely together is a problem as far as coupling, and it almost always effects the higher of the used bands. The best way to orient is at right angles, if looking from overhead. At right angles, there is basically no interaction at all, and the dipoles act pretty much the same as if separate. In fact, I've had legs fall down and have no effect on the other bands. The closer the wires, the more coupling, and the more tweaking you will have to do to get the higher band tuned. I've even seen cases where the higher band would tune a higher frequency by adding more wire. Exactly the opposite from normal. I don't really like having the wires in the same plane at all, but if no choice, I would use as large a spreader as possible. I often have multiple bands.. Here at the house, I presently have an 80m turnstile, and a 40 dipole on the same feedline. At my place in OK, I have 160,80,40 and 20m on the same coax feed. All wires spread as far apart as possible. Looks like a big spider from overhead. MK |
Fan Dipole insight
Here's the deal. If you put the wires close together you get a lot of
interaction. The manifestation of the interaction is that the higher-frequency dipoles end up considerably shorter than normal, and they'll have a narrower bandwidth than an isolated dipole. The longest one will also be affected by the others, but not nearly so much. You'll also find that small differences in spacing can have quite an effect on the dipole resonant frequencies, which is why a cookbook approach usually doesn't work unless the writer is very careful to document the antenna accurately and you're extremely careful to exactly duplicate it. But you just about always end up having to tune it. Tuning a close-spaced multiple dipole like this is time consuming. You begin by adjusting the length of the longest one to resonance. Then you adjust the next shorter one, and so forth. It might be necessary to repeat the process after the first time through. And, as I mentioned, you'll end up with some pretty narrowbanded antennas, and the lengths won't be what common formulas predict. The interaction decreases rapidly as you spread the dipoles apart. If you can get them around 30 degrees apart, the interaction is minimal and you can just about treat them like separate dipoles. A lot of installations fall between these extremes, so the dipoles have some interaction but it's not as severe as it is when they're very closely spaced. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Fan Dipole insight
Tim,
I run a fan dipole from 6 to 40 metres in my loft, I only run QRP but with my 10 watts of SSB I have worked Canada, America and North Africa from England. There is no reason why the aerial could not be outside at some other QTH. You will find details he http://www.radiowymsey.org/FanDipole/fandiploe.htm . Charlie. -- M0WYM www.radiowymsey.org |
Fan Dipole insight
Roy Lewallen wrote:
SNIP Tuning a close-spaced multiple dipole like this is time consuming. You begin by adjusting the length of the longest one to resonance. Then you adjust the next shorter one, and so forth. It might be necessary to repeat the process after the first time through. And, as I mentioned, you'll end up with some pretty narrowbanded antennas, and the lengths won't be what common formulas predict. The interaction decreases rapidly as you spread the dipoles apart. If you can get them around 30 degrees apart, the interaction is minimal and you can just about treat them like separate dipoles. A lot of installations fall between these extremes, so the dipoles have some interaction but it's not as severe as it is when they're very closely spaced. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Roy, My experience confirms what you report except for the bandwidth but I did use a balun. My elements are spaced about 7 inches apart and run parallel to each other. The elements are for 10, 15, 17, 20 & 40 metres with pretty effective operation on 6 and 12. You can see the figures for the elements he http://www.radiowymsey.org/FanDipole/FanDipole.html Charlie. -- M0WYM www.radiowymsey.org |
Fan Dipole insight
Stefan Wolfe wrote:
With just a few easy modifications you could change your 80 meter dipole into a G5RV and cover nearly the whole ham band including 40m. Despite what you may hear from some disparagers, G5RV is actually an excellent antenna. Pretty good on 80m, 40m, 20m, and 12m. Not very good on 30m, 17m, 15m, and 10m. http://www.cebik.com/wire/g5rv.html http://www.vk1od.net/G5RV/ http://www.w8ji.com/g5rv_facts.htm On 75m, putting a 1200 pF shunt cap across the 300 ohm feedline at the balanced to unbalanced junction will put the resonant point in the phone band and result in very close to an SWR of 1:1 on the coax. The cap needs to be removed for 40m operation. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
Fan Dipole insight
On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 13:54:36 -0700, Tim Shoppa
wrote: I am very very proud that I hung a 80-Meter dipole about 100 feet above my QTH last week. But I also had a hankering to cover 40 Meters with it too (although I already had a 40 Meter dipole). So the section in the antenna book about fan dipoles came to mind. I looked in the ARRL antenna book, it told me that the seperation of wires was not all that important. So I sort-of duplicated one of the sketches in the book, and hung the 40 meter wire from an tiny little egg insulator on the 80 meter wire. Result: DID NOT WORK AT ALL. No indication of any kind of antenna I have had the same experience. It turns out that more spacing is better and cut & try is better than thinking too much about what you have. Consider extending the shorter elements with nylon line to the end supports rather than hanging them on separators. Fans work well as verticals too! If you drop the end support it will tangle faster than a closet full of coat hangers... John Ferrell W8CCW "Life is easier if you learn to plow around the stumps" |
Fan Dipole insight
Tim Shoppa wrote:
I am very very proud that I hung a 80-Meter dipole about 100 feet above my QTH last week. But I also had a hankering to cover 40 Meters with it too (although I already had a 40 Meter dipole). So the section in the antenna book about fan dipoles came to mind. I looked in the ARRL antenna book, it told me that the seperation of wires was not all that important. So I sort-of duplicated one of the sketches in the book, and hung the 40 meter wire from an tiny little egg insulator on the 80 meter wire. ============================= Your 80m dipole can be effectively used on ALL bands if you use twin feeder. See another recent thread on this NG. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
Fan Dipole insight
On Nov 2, 9:02 pm, "Stefan Wolfe" wrote:
With just a few easy modifications you could change your 80 meter dipole into a G5RV and cover nearly the whole ham band including 40m. Despite what you may hear from some disparagers, G5RV is actually an excellent antenna. How do you define excellent? Why would one need to change the length of the element, just to feed it on all bands using a tuner? Of course, there are quite a few variations of the G5RV, but I've never seen on that I thought was excellent. The ones I used at field day two years in a row were totally pathetic. But of course, they used all the usual garbage between the rig and the antenna as they are usually sold. Rig to tuner to coax to choke to twin lead to element.. What a mess... :( Too much loss with all that junk. He would likely be better off keeping the same element length, and feeding with nothing but twin lead from a tuner if one wanted to use it on all bands. But his current plan of separate dipoles feeding with coax is better than either one as far as efficiency. He will also have pretty much a dipole pattern for each band also. This is usually better when used for lower band NVIS type paths, vs longer wires that have more gain in certain directions. If you have gain in certain directions, you will lose some in other directions. This is ok in some cases, but not so great in others. I'd rather have the broader pattern on the low bands for NVIS use. If I was Tim, I'd stick with what he has, and just get it tuned. Once he does, he won't have to mess with it anymore, and it will outplay most other types of multi-band setups. No tuner fiddling changing bands either. It will smoke the usual garden variety G5RV kits that are sold. My experiences using the G5RV were so poor, I refuse to ever use one again. I'll go back home and watch TV before I'd ever get stuck on one of those again for 80/40m field day use. It was horrible.. I felt like I was using a dummy load for an antenna. No joke.. But like I say, these were the basic store bought G5RV's including all the lossy junk. It's possible to dump most of that junk and have a decent antenna, but I would still prefer the parallel coax fed dipoles. For multi band use, I don't think they can be beat for overall efficiency. I use nothing else here, and have been going that route for years. But I am kind of anal about unnecessary system losses. MK |
Fan Dipole insight
On Nov 3, 5:25 pm, "Stefan Wolfe" wrote:
I guess in my case, the G5RV is the best I can do. I live in a restricted PUD but I have a 'relatively' large attic. I could fit a bent 80m dipole up there or a bent G5RV that is just a few feet shorter. But with the G5RV, I do get some good performance on several ham bands and I think it is more efficient than the 80m dipole because the ladder line also functions as part of the antenna (as you know, according to G5RV theory). It's not more efficient, but there are cases where the feed radiation could help if there is a need for some vertical polarization. But... thats just another of what I consider a problem. I don't want any feedline radiation. If I want vertical, I'll run a vertical. But I realize you are limited on room, so not a perfect world.. :/ If you are using the usual G5RV setup with the tuner to coax to choke to twin lead, you would actually be better off running the same antenna, but using only the tuner to twin lead all the way to the antenna. In cases of limited room, I usually prefer "Z" dipoles fed with coax if for single band use. Here at home, I can't run a full length 160m dipole on this lot. So I used a "Z" dipole fed in parallel with my other usual dipoles. I did tests comparing the Z dipole with loaded dipoles, and the Z dipole always won. This was even with using heavy fat wire coils, and optimum coil locations on the elements. If I used a Z dipole for all band use, I would feed it with ladder line the whole way.. Or twin lead.. Twin lead is fairly decent indoors as it never gets wet. I have a 40m dipole in my attic for emergency use when it's real stormy. I feed it with twin lead so I can run 40-10. Being it's half size on 80m, and fed with a T-net tuner, the efficiency is poor on 80m. Lots of tuner loss.. But I also must defer to yourself and others because this is a technical group where we get into more than "how stuff works.com"...I participate if I think I can contribute in a certain area. Thanks for your comment. Ya gotta use what you can fit in.. I have no problems with anyone using any type of antenna. If it works well enough for you, that's all that really matters. I'm just warning of losses you may not notice if you don't have a coax fed dipole to A/B test them to compare.. BTW, I don't just pick on the G5RV's.. :/ I also am not crazy about most windoms either if they are fed using the tuner to coax to choke to wire scenario.. I did a A/B test against one of those one time on 40m. The windom seemed to be working just great. They could hear stations, and make contacts, and all was well in the world. But then I hooked up a coax fed 40m dipole, and used an antenna switch to be able to quickly A/B. The coax fed dipole brought "everything" up 2 S units. Noise floor, signals, the whole ball of wax. I kid you not. The windom guy almost fell over.. He had no idea he was losing that much. Some may say, well 2 S units ain't much.. But when you consider that the usual change of running 100w vs 600w usually amounts to about 2 S units on most run of the mill S meters, thats quite a bit of loss.. :( It was like I was getting the effects of a free 500-600 watt amp vs the windom.. But to each his own, or to his room.. I'm not trying to be an antenna snob, I just jibber jabber about them.. MPG will vary.. MK |
Fan Dipole insight
Stefan Wolfe wrote:
I guess in my case, the G5RV is the best I can do. I live in a restricted PUD but I have a 'relatively' large attic. I could fit a bent 80m dipole up there or a bent G5RV that is just a few feet shorter. But with the G5RV, I do get some good performance on several ham bands and I think it is more efficient than the 80m dipole because the ladder line also functions as part of the antenna (as you know, according to G5RV theory). . . There's no theory I know of which causes a G5RV feedline to radiate more or less than any other dipole. The amount of feedline radiation depends on the amount of common mode current it carries, and its length. The amount of common mode current depends on a number of factors, including how the transmission line is fed, how it's oriented, its length, and the common mode impedance of the antenna. This is discussed in some detail at http://eznec.com/Amateur/Articles/Baluns.pdf. Increasing the amount of vertical radiation and/or having the feedline radiate doesn't improve the efficiency of an antenna. If you prevent the feedline from radiating, the power it would have radiated ends up being radiated by the antenna instead. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Fan Dipole insight
Stefan Wolfe wrote:
I stated it improperly. I agree that total radiation efficieny in all directions does not increase but I believe efficiency as a vertical radiator (ie in the horizontal plane) does increase with G5RV at some frequencies due to the ladder line. See http://www.roadkill.com/~unwin/G5RV.html Oh, no, you've been reading Art's postings! He uses the term "efficiency" in creative and inscrutable ways. When used with respect to antennas (and a lot of other things), "efficiency" has a universally understood, precise definition. The efficiency of an antenna is the ratio of the power radiated to the power applied. What you meant was effectiveness, not efficiency. If you do find it necessary to use "efficiency" to mean anything other than what it's universally understood to mean, you'll need to carefully point this out at the time, or people are bound to misinterpret what you've said -- as I did. If you prevent the feedline from radiating, the power it would have radiated ends up being radiated by the antenna instead. Of course, this is correct. However, when you're cramped for space and are trying to get as much RF as possible in the horizontal plane (rather than warmimg clouds directly overhead :-)), it is advantageous to intentionally use the vertical ladder line as a radiator when possible. At least, that is the theory of one who has always had to use attic antennas. Fortunately I will retire soon and will be moving to a place where I can put up a 160m horizontal dipole if I wish. So what you're doing is intentionally making or allowing the feedline to radiate in order to get some vertically polarized radiation so you can get more radiation at lower angles from a low antenna. That's a method some of us would avoid, but in circumstances like yours it's very likely one of the best solutions available. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Fan Dipole insight
On Nov 2, 6:12 pm, Roy Lewallen wrote:
Here's the deal. If you put the wires close together you get a lot of interaction. The manifestation of the interaction is that the higher-frequency dipoles end up considerably shorter than normal, and they'll have a narrower bandwidth than an isolated dipole. The longest one will also be affected by the others, but not nearly so much. You'll also find that small differences in spacing can have quite an effect on the dipole resonant frequencies, which is why a cookbook approach usually doesn't work unless the writer is very careful to document the antenna accurately and you're extremely careful to exactly duplicate it. I had read the points you make above in the antenna books... but did not realize exactly how variable the effects are especially for the cases where the elements are physically close. The examples in the ARRL Antenna book are particularly heinous: they show elements separated by a fraction of an inch (e.g. the twin-lead example, the picture that shows the wires hanging from egg insulators) and these examples are - from my experiments - the least likely to work at all. The interaction decreases rapidly as you spread the dipoles apart. If you can get them around 30 degrees apart, the interaction is minimal and you can just about treat them like separate dipoles. A lot of installations fall between these extremes, so the dipoles have some interaction but it's not as severe as it is when they're very closely spaced. This is a very fundamental piece of wisdom, and a piece that deserves more attention in the ARRL Antenna books. The current statement - "The separation between the dipoles for the various frequencies does not seem to be especially critical" is incredibly wrong for the close- spaced exampls shown in the book. Tim. |
Fan Dipole insight
On 5 Nov, 06:03, Tim Shoppa wrote:
On Nov 2, 6:12 pm, Roy Lewallen wrote: Here's the deal. If you put the wires close together you get a lot of interaction. The manifestation of the interaction is that the higher-frequency dipoles end up considerably shorter than normal, and they'll have a narrower bandwidth than an isolated dipole. The longest one will also be affected by the others, but not nearly so much. You'll also find that small differences in spacing can have quite an effect on the dipole resonant frequencies, which is why a cookbook approach usually doesn't work unless the writer is very careful to document the antenna accurately and you're extremely careful to exactly duplicate it. I had read the points you make above in the antenna books... but did not realize exactly how variable the effects are especially for the cases where the elements are physically close. The examples in the ARRL Antenna book are particularly heinous: they show elements separated by a fraction of an inch (e.g. the twin-lead example, the picture that shows the wires hanging from egg insulators) and these examples are - from my experiments - the least likely to work at all. The interaction decreases rapidly as you spread the dipoles apart. If you can get them around 30 degrees apart, the interaction is minimal and you can just about treat them like separate dipoles. A lot of installations fall between these extremes, so the dipoles have some interaction but it's not as severe as it is when they're very closely spaced. This is a very fundamental piece of wisdom, and a piece that deserves more attention in the ARRL Antenna books. The current statement - "The separation between the dipoles for the various frequencies does not seem to be especially critical" is incredibly wrong for the close- spaced exampls shown in the book. Tim. After you have read the books try some thing different. Obtain insulated wire and double it over itself to form a single wire combination. Wind a considerable length on a former. Using a MFJ analyser run thru the frequencies until you obtain a resonance at a reasonable impedance level and then scale for your desired frequency. Of course you must connect the MFJ to the two wire ends. If you don't succeed first time around then short the wires in increments till you succeed.Wires close together can be turned into advantage if you go along with mother nature! To make things easier, heat the insulation on the wire and insert small needles so you can hook up the MFJ at different turn lengths. Be a leader not a follower Art KB9MZ....XG |
Fan Dipole insight
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 06:03:55 -0800, Tim Shoppa
wrote: The examples in the ARRL Antenna book are particularly heinous: they show elements separated by a fraction of an inch (e.g. the twin-lead example, the picture that shows the wires hanging from egg insulators) and these examples are - from my experiments - the least likely to work at all. I have been complaining about that particular example in the ARRL books for years. I am beginning to think that you & I are the only ones to try to make it work! I just had a moment of inspiration...I wonder why I have not modeled it in EZNEC? Maybe later this evening... John Ferrell W8CCW "Life is easier if you learn to plow around the stumps" |
Fan Dipole insight
"art" wrote in message oups.com... On 5 Nov, 06:03, Tim Shoppa wrote: On Nov 2, 6:12 pm, Roy Lewallen wrote: Here's the deal. If you put the wires close together you get a lot of interaction. The manifestation of the interaction is that the higher-frequency dipoles end up considerably shorter than normal, and they'll have a narrower bandwidth than an isolated dipole. The longest one will also be affected by the others, but not nearly so much. You'll also find that small differences in spacing can have quite an effect on the dipole resonant frequencies, which is why a cookbook approach usually doesn't work unless the writer is very careful to document the antenna accurately and you're extremely careful to exactly duplicate it. I had read the points you make above in the antenna books... but did not realize exactly how variable the effects are especially for the cases where the elements are physically close. The examples in the ARRL Antenna book are particularly heinous: they show elements separated by a fraction of an inch (e.g. the twin-lead example, the picture that shows the wires hanging from egg insulators) and these examples are - from my experiments - the least likely to work at all. The interaction decreases rapidly as you spread the dipoles apart. If you can get them around 30 degrees apart, the interaction is minimal and you can just about treat them like separate dipoles. A lot of installations fall between these extremes, so the dipoles have some interaction but it's not as severe as it is when they're very closely spaced. This is a very fundamental piece of wisdom, and a piece that deserves more attention in the ARRL Antenna books. The current statement - "The separation between the dipoles for the various frequencies does not seem to be especially critical" is incredibly wrong for the close- spaced exampls shown in the book. Tim. After you have read the books try some thing different. Obtain insulated wire and double it over itself to form a single wire combination. Wind a considerable length on a former. Using a MFJ analyser run thru the frequencies until you obtain a resonance at a reasonable impedance level and then scale for your desired frequency. Of course you must connect the MFJ to the two wire ends. If you don't succeed first time around then short the wires in increments till you succeed.Wires close together can be turned into advantage if you go along with mother nature! To make things easier, heat the insulation on the wire and insert small needles so you can hook up the MFJ at different turn lengths. Be a leader not a follower Art KB9MZ....XG why mfj? we using another brand, can we? :-) |
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