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#1
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I have an efficiency question concerning feed lines. My present
system is RG-8X to my 75 meter inverted vee which is about 85 feet away from the shack. I propose to replace some 88 feet of coax with 300 ohm window ladder line that is inserted into the coax run with 4:1 baluns to match the coax on each end. Also at the feed point of the antenna switch from a voltage balun to a current balun (ferrite chock type). By my calculations with a 98 watt generator I will increase the power to the load by about 11-20 watts and with a 985 watt generator, 117-210 more watts will reach the load. Figuring theoretical total system (A) against total System (B) or by just the difference in the 88 feet of ladder line versus coax. What do you think the increase will be? |
#2
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... in practical terms... not worth the trouble.
![]() - 'Doc |
#3
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Sonny Hood wrote:
I have an efficiency question concerning feed lines. My present system is RG-8X to my 75 meter inverted vee which is about 85 feet away from the shack. I propose to replace some 88 feet of coax with 300 ohm window ladder line that is inserted into the coax run with 4:1 baluns to match the coax on each end. Also at the feed point of the antenna switch from a voltage balun to a current balun (ferrite chock type). By my calculations with a 98 watt generator I will increase the power to the load by about 11-20 watts and with a 985 watt generator, 117-210 more watts will reach the load. Figuring theoretical total system (A) against total System (B) or by just the difference in the 88 feet of ladder line versus coax. What do you think the increase will be? ================================================== == Why not replace the complete coax feeder with twin lead feeder (if you can keep it away from soil and/or metal) , and use a matching box directly accepting the twin lead feeder ( without ferrite type balun), be it 300 or 450 Ohms or approx 600 Ohms ladder line ? It will improve efficiency and above all make the antenna multi-band. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
#4
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Highland Ham wrote:
Why not replace the complete coax feeder with twin lead feeder (if you can keep it away from soil and/or metal) , and use a matching box directly accepting the twin lead feeder ( without ferrite type balun), be it 300 or 450 Ohms or approx 600 Ohms ladder line ? It will improve efficiency and above all make the antenna multi-band. Let's see how much improvement. Assuming a 50 ohm antenna, 3.8 MHz, and using Owen's xmission line calculator at: http://www.vk1od.net/tl/tllc.php 85 feet of RG8x has a loss of 0.478 dB. 85 feet of 300 ohm twinlead has a loss of 0.424 dB. How much will that 0.054 dB improve efficiency? 1%? The coax has a 1:1 SWR. The 300 ohm twinlead has a 6:1 SWR. That makes the losses almost equal. If we were talking about RG-213, the losses would be 0.308 dB, 0.116 dB better than the 300 ohm twinlead. The following is becoming a myth: "One can ignore the losses in twinlead and ladder-line." Also - maybe he doesn't want to use a "matching box". -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
#5
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On May 28, 10:16*am, Sonny Hood wrote:
* *I have an efficiency question concerning feed lines. *My present system is RG-8X to my 75 meter inverted vee which is about 85 feet away from the shack. *I propose to replace some 88 feet of coax with 300 ohm window ladder line that is inserted into the coax run with 4:1 baluns to match the coax on each end. *Also at the feed point of the antenna switch from a voltage balun to a current balun (ferrite chock type). *By my calculations with a 98 watt generator I will increase the power to the load by about 11-20 watts and with a 985 watt generator, 117-210 more watts will reach the load. *Figuring theoretical total system (A) against total System (B) or by just the difference in the 88 feet of ladder line versus coax. *What do you think the increase will be? I think you left out the losses in the balun. With a kilowatt even a large (by ham standards) balun will get very warm if you leave the key down... my guess is it's not quite as much as you're saving but comparable. It all amounts to 10%, and that's such a tiny fraction of a S-unit. Now, if your antenna were an incredible mismatch to coax to begin with, then ladder line makes good sense. Say you want to use your same inv-V on 40M, then you'd run ladder line all the way to your tuner and be in fat city. Tim N3QE |
#6
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Tim Shoppa wrote:
Hi, I think you left out the losses in the balun. With a kilowatt even a large (by ham standards) balun will get very warm if you leave the key down... my guess is it's not quite as much as you're saving but comparable. It all amounts to 10%, and that's such a tiny fraction of a S-unit. The other side probably wouldn`notice the difference. Now, if your antenna were an incredible mismatch to coax to begin with, then ladder line makes good sense. Say you want to use your same inv-V on 40M, then you'd run ladder line all the way to your tuner and be in fat city. I would not take TV ladderline if you have a high standing wave ratio, and this will happen if you use the dipol for multiband purpose. I`ve tested a dipol with about 20 m length (67 ft) for 80m. At first I got almost the same s-meter report compared with a W3DZZ trap dipol. But after a couple of month I noticed that the received signal was up to 20 db down compared with the trap dipol. I only used 100 watts but it broke the TV ladder line. Here I`ve learned what has happened: http://www.w8ji.com/vswr_reactive_power.htm I`m planning to build a new antenna with self built ladderline for multiband purposes for one of the traps of my W3DZZ is broken. I´ve only bought the spacers for the new ladder line. -- 73 DJ4PB |
#7
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On May 28, 1:22*pm, (Dieter Kiel) wrote:
wrote: Hi, I think you left out the losses in the balun. With a kilowatt even a large (by ham standards) balun will get very warm if you leave the key down... my guess is it's not quite as much as you're saving but comparable. It all amounts to 10%, and that's such a tiny fraction of a S-unit. The other side probably wouldn`notice the difference. Now, if your antenna were an incredible mismatch to coax to begin with, then ladder line makes good sense. Say you want to use your same inv-V on 40M, then you'd run ladder line all the way to your tuner and be in fat city. I would not take TV ladderline if you have a high standing wave ratio, and this will happen if you use the dipol for multiband purpose. I`ve tested a dipol with about 20 m length (67 ft) for 80m. At first I got almost the same s-meter report compared with a W3DZZ trap dipol. But after a couple of month I noticed that the received signal was up to 20 db down compared with the trap dipol. I only used 100 watts but it broke the TV ladder line. Here I`ve learned what has happened: http://www.w8ji.com/vswr_reactive_power.htm I`m planning to build a new antenna with self built ladderline for multiband purposes for one of the traps of my W3DZZ is broken. I´ve only bought the spacers for the new ladder line. I have a 135-foot dipole fed with approx 100 feet of home-made ladder line and am incredibly happy with its performance from 80M all the way to 15M. Much of the joy of the ladderline was not in buying the parts to make it, but making it from stuff on hand. I had a sheet of 1/8" polycarbonate that I cut into 4"x3/8" strips, then drilled and notched, to put a spacer every foot using tie-wires. Others boil wooden dowels in paraffin for the spacers (the method recommended by the 1930's ARRL Handbook). Seeing the ladderline go up 85 feet to the middle of the dipole is a pure joy! Tim N3QE |
#8
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Tim Shoppa wrote:
I have a 135-foot dipole fed with approx 100 feet of home-made ladder line and am incredibly happy with its performance from 80M all the way to 15M. Why those are good choices for lengths can be seen on the following diagram: http://www.w5dxp.com/pnts130.gif You are relatively close to a low-impedance/current- maximum point on all HF bands. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
#10
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Owen Duffy wrote:
(Dieter Kiel) wrote in news:1ihnz3n.wxm0z7nvxaivN% : http://www.w8ji.com/vswr_reactive_power.htm I assume Dieter that this is your recommendation of the article. That article uses the term 'reactive power' in a non-conventional way, though the term is a well known one (ie has a conventional meaning). Conventional use is that the term 'apparent power' is applied to the product of RMS voltage and current flowing into a two terminal load, and the units are VoltAmps (VA), not Watts as used in the article. Reactive power is the reactive component of apparent power, and expressed in units of 'VoltAmpsReactive' (VAR). 'Real power' is the real component of apparent power and expressed in units of Watts (W). The relationship is that apparentpower = (realpower^2 + reactive power^2)^0.5 . This is all basic lumped component AC circuit theory, and holds at RF. True, but we still aren't there. It's very misleading to quote "VAR powers" in the kilowatt range, because the only power available to melt the feedline is 100W from the transmitter. There is no magnification of real power. The high value of "VAR power" is a theoretical result of the large RF currents in the system. These result from an antenna feedpoint impedance that has a very low resistive part and is almost entirely reactive. The large RF currents are a genuine physical phenomenon, as also are the high voltages a quarter-wavelength back along the feedline (if the feedline is long enough, of course)... but if there were no losses in the feedline, these would have no further effect. In spite of the wild values of impedance, current, voltage, VSWR etc, if there were no losses in the feedline then all of the RF power would still reach the antenna. In a real feedline, the effect of the high currents is to divert almost all of the available RF power away from the antenna and into the feedline's own resistive losses - skin-effect losses in the copper conductor, and dielectric losses in the plastic. Both of these result in heating and softening of the plastic, which makes the dielectric loss even higher. This tends to divert even more of the available power into the weak spots, where the plastic finally melts. But there is still only 100W available to do the damage. No argument about the final conclusion - it ain't gonna work - but I don't care for the explanation. There's no problem with "VAR power" for anyone who already has a firm grip on the concepts, but it is not a good way to explain those concepts to a newcomer. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
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