|
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave Lemper wrote in message ... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE - I lived for many years in the Dallas area. The caliche was down about 2 feet and was about a foot thick. I had to dig a hole with a shovel down to the caliche, then use a heavy hammer and long chisel to get through the caliche. Then, backfill and proceed as normal. Don't know what your configuration would be. Good luck. |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:29:03 GMT, "Wayne"
wrote: - I lived for many years in the Dallas area. The caliche was down about 2 feet and was about a foot thick. I had to dig a hole with a shovel down to the caliche, then use a heavy hammer and long chisel to get through the caliche. Then, backfill and proceed as normal. Don't know what your configuration would be. Good luck. Thanks Wayne. As a last resort I will hack a trench with a pick and lay in the rod at a shallow angle to the surface. Would this give an adequate ground ? I could also bond it to an outdoor brass spigot 10 yards away or even to an anchor fence in the other direction. Dave WB3DWE |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave WB3DWE wrote in message ... On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:29:03 GMT, "Wayne" wrote: - I lived for many years in the Dallas area. The caliche was down about 2 feet and was about a foot thick. I had to dig a hole with a shovel down to the caliche, then use a heavy hammer and long chisel to get through the caliche. Then, backfill and proceed as normal. Don't know what your configuration would be. Good luck. Thanks Wayne. As a last resort I will hack a trench with a pick and lay in the rod at a shallow angle to the surface. Would this give an adequate ground ? I could also bond it to an outdoor brass spigot 10 yards away or even to an anchor fence in the other direction. Dave WB3DWE - In my opinion the trench would be ok, but I'll leave that to the experts on the group. However, I remember chiseling through the caliche to be annoying, but not that difficult with the right tools. It can be done with a "shooter" style shovel, but that is a bit more effort. However, I doubt if you would ever get a copper rod driven through without some major damage to the rod. |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave Lemper wrote:
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. [...] Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE I'm having thoughts of steel pipes filled with muriatic (swimming-pool) acid eating through the caliche chemically. Usual acid-handling precautions would definitely apply. Jim, K7JEB |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:58:19 -0500, Dave Lemper wrote:
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE Seems like it was only yesterday, but it is, in fact closer to a year: "Rick (W-A-one-R-K-T)" wrote in m: On Sat, 04 Aug 2007 11:27:33 -0700, Chuck Olson wrote: is there any chance you might know what brand and model number of hammer drill you used? Yup, it's the Hilti TE-76-ATC. Nobody I ever heard of... but it sure works nice. Rick, I see on Hilti's web site he TE-76-ATC, and its accessories include a TE- Y driving shank and a series of adapters TP-TKS ground rod driving adapters for different diameters. Hilti BTW are suppliers of expensive quality tools to the construction industry, you probably won't find their tools in home handyman stores. The tool you rented is a little lighter than the one I used, and that is probably why driving times were a little longer. My Hitach PH-65 machine with home made driving adapter will drive a 16mm diameter 2.4m earth rod into dry clay in less than a minute. Pleased it worked for you. It is the way to go, isn't it! The numbers above might help people looking to rent a device. Owen Search Google Groups using advanced search features to include Owen as the author, and the time period of several weeks before and after the posting above on the subject of: "Hammer drills and ground rods, followup" and "Hammer drills and ground rods" 73's Richard Clark, KB7QHC |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
In article , Dave Lemper
wrote: The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Dave- Last year there was a discussion here about sinking a ground rod using an "SDS Plus" Hammer Drill set to hammer-only. I think it was Ian White, GM3SEK, who proposed that method. There is also an article at http://www.n4lcd.com/groundrod/ that proposes a slightly different method of coupling the hammer drill to the ground rod. The question is whether Caliche can be penetrated by such a method. Has anyone tried it? Another consideration is whether or not there is moisture in the soil below the Caliche. If not, then it might not provide a low-impedance ground even if you could penetrate it! Fred K4DII |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... In article , Dave Lemper wrote: The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Dave- Last year there was a discussion here about sinking a ground rod using an "SDS Plus" Hammer Drill set to hammer-only. I think it was Ian White, GM3SEK, who proposed that method. There is also an article at http://www.n4lcd.com/groundrod/ that proposes a slightly different method of coupling the hammer drill to the ground rod. The question is whether Caliche can be penetrated by such a method. Has anyone tried it? Another consideration is whether or not there is moisture in the soil below the Caliche. If not, then it might not provide a low-impedance ground even if you could penetrate it! Fred K4DII - If you don't have all the tools described above for an elegant way to drive a ground rod, it isn't that bad by hand. The secret is to dig through the soft dirt to expose the caliche. I used a crowbar hammered with a small sledge. It isn't too bad for just a ground rod, and might be quicker than looking for/borrowing more tools. I planted a 60 foot self supporting tower in a hole 3 ft by 3ft and 6 feet deep. I would have preferred an elegant solution for that! |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Aug 23, 11:58*am, Dave Lemper wrote:
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. *Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. *Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. * Dave *WB3DWE * * * * * * * * * * * * * I know the stuff you are talking about, it will even jam up a Ditch Witch When I was in San Antonio with the USAF we made a spade bit out of metal rod and welded the spades on the side. We stared the hole with a post hole digger, filled it with water. then drilled down into it. After drilling a couple of feet we were able to pound in the ground rods Im thinking using a real spade bit with an extension may work. Jimmie |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
JIMMIE wrote:
I know the stuff you are talking about, it will even jam up a Ditch Witch They pave roads with caliche in West Texas. From Wikipedia: "Caliche is also used for road construction, either as a surfacing material or, more commonly, as a base material." -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:58:19 -0500, Dave Lemper wrote:
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE I would find out how local electricians do it. They have to meet code. John Ferrell W8CCW |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
That caliche must be something else. I've never heard of it. But I must question either your selection of ground rod, or method of insertion. I've sunk a number of ground rods in semi-rock.... sometimes penetrating granite too. We used 5/8" copper clad steel, or sometimes 3/4" copper clad steel rods. We also used rotary impact hammers to drive the rods down.... often right through a rock or whatever. Worked almost all the time, and did not "mushroom" the top of the rod. If a 3/4" pointed solid steel rod can not be driven through Caliche with an impact hammer I can't imagine any other tool short of dynamite doing the job. Ed K7AAT |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave Lemper wrote in message ... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE Here's a snippet from the state of Washington's website that quotes the NEC: NEC 250-52 (c)(3) (1999 edition) requires that ground rods "be driven to a depth of not less than 8 feet (2.44m) except that, where rock bottom is encountered, the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or shall be buried in a trench that is at least 2½ ft. (762mm) deep." The requirement is that the rod be driven to a depth of 8 feet. If the rod cannot be driven then there is a choice of either driving it at a 45-degree angle or laying it in a trench that is not less than 2½ feet deep. http://www.lni.wa.gov/tradeslicensin...ts/elc0210.pdf. I browsed some newer discussions and found nothing newer to be at variance with the quoted material. The current NEC is $75 if snippets won't do ya'. http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?c...RL=Pub licati ons/ You need 25 ohms maximum rersistance (three-point method) to say you have a good ground. |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article , Dave Lemper wrote: The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Dave- Last year there was a discussion here about sinking a ground rod using an "SDS Plus" Hammer Drill set to hammer-only. I think it was Ian White, GM3SEK, who proposed that method. The other point was that SDS+ bits are available up to 1.0 metres long, so by using both rotary and hammer action you can drill a pilot hole through most kinds of rock down to that depth. There is also an article at http://www.n4lcd.com/groundrod/ that proposes a slightly different method of coupling the hammer drill to the ground rod. The question is whether Caliche can be penetrated by such a method. Has anyone tried it? We don't have caliche here, by that name, but from accounts on the web I'd doubt if it could be penetrated by hammer action alone. However, it seems more likely that an SDS+ bit could drill through it. Another consideration is whether or not there is moisture in the soil below the Caliche. If not, then it might not provide a low-impedance ground even if you could penetrate it! That is certainly the problem at this QTH, where an earth rod drilled and hammered into the very rocky subsoil produced a resistance of 500ohms! Long horizontal electrodes are the only kind that work at this QTH. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
While I don't have any 'caliche' on my property, I am blessed with a
lot of randomly placed rock. Driving any ground rod to about 6 feet is a guessing game more than anything else. I've found that ground radials are more practical. Not easy, just practical. They seem to work as well as any ground rod I've ever used (better in some instances). The local power company is supposed to put down ground rods for safety. Having seen some of their methods, I'd tend to go with the radials (ground wire attached to water pipes... PVC water pipes, great idea huh? And, NO, I'm not kidding.) - 'Doc |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:58:19 -0500, Dave Lemper wrote:
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE I have a Glen Martin ground rod driver (fashioned after a fence post driver) that worked fine in Houston. In San Antonio, it only drives a rod about one foot down, then muck... I ended up just driving a short rod, mainly used as a connection post, and then I extended several long, buried wires out from it. bob k5qwg |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
I got a better ground than using a stake by doing something a little
unorthodox. I buried an old channel 6 yagi antenna in under six inches of earth. It made a pretty good ground. It was a lot better than a stake. Michael Dave Lemper wrote: The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave Lemper wrote in :
The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE Dave, If you truly cannot drive an electrode vertically, then you will need to consider drilling for horizontal electrodes in trenches chased into the rock. Drilling creates another problem, backfilling for conductivity. Electrodes in dry rock might not be very effective. I have had success in driving electrodes into moderately shaly ground, and even very dry clay isn't too difficult. Pointed 19mm copper clad steel rods or stainless steel rods are a lot easier to drive into hard stuff than smaller sizes. The following article shows some of the equipment that I have used sucessfully, and likely to be more successful than using an ordinary hammer. Machine driving does not mushroom then end of the electrode near as much as hand hammering. http://www.vk1od.net/post/driver.htm Owen |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
"Wayne" wrote in
news:BdXrk.527$482.222@trnddc06: As a last resort I will hack a trench with a pick and lay in the rod at a shallow angle to the surface. Would this give an adequate ground ? I could also bond it to an outdoor brass spigot 10 yards away or even to an anchor fence in the other direction. Dave WB3DWE - In my opinion the trench would be ok, but I'll leave that to the experts on the group. However, I remember chiseling through the caliche to be annoying, but not that difficult with the right tools. It can be done with a "shooter" style shovel, but that is a bit more effort. However, I doubt if you would ever get a copper rod driven through without some major damage to the rod. If the soil is permiable to water, you could try another of my hack methods. Sweat a garden hose connection onto a piece of copper tubing. Attach a garden hose to the fitting, and point the rod down in the place you want to sink int. Then let it rip. In my area, we have a few inches of topsoil, than a really hard clay, then rocky clay, followed by sandy clay/sand. It will even move some rocks out of the way. The tubing becomes the ground rod of course. - 73 de Mike N3LI - |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Ed,
"Ed" wrote in message . 192.196... We used 5/8" copper clad steel, or sometimes 3/4" copper clad steel rods. We also used rotary impact hammers to drive the rods down.... often right through a rock or whatever. Hammer-only mode? Or "rotate & hammer" mode? ---Joel |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
We used 5/8" copper clad steel, or sometimes 3/4" copper clad steel rods. We also used rotary impact hammers to drive the rods down.... often right through a rock or whatever. Hammer-only mode? Or "rotate & hammer" mode? ---Joel Hope I did not confuse ! I used a rotary impact hammer in all my years of ground rod driving, but only used impact mode..... the rotary mode would only turn the hammer head, not the rod . .. anyway. Most of the time I had a sized Bosch tool, not some cheap import. --- Ed K7AAT |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Sal M. Onella wrote:
Dave Lemper wrote in message ... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE Here's a snippet from the state of Washington's website that quotes the NEC: NEC 250-52 (c)(3) (1999 edition) requires that ground rods "be driven to a depth of not less than 8 feet (2.44m) except that, where rock bottom is encountered, the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or shall be buried in a trench that is at least 2½ ft. (762mm) deep." The requirement is that the rod be driven to a depth of 8 feet. If the rod cannot be driven then there is a choice of either driving it at a 45-degree angle or laying it in a trench that is not less than 2½ feet deep. http://www.lni.wa.gov/tradeslicensin...ts/elc0210.pdf. I browsed some newer discussions and found nothing newer to be at variance with the quoted material. The current NEC is $75 if snippets won't do ya'. http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?c...RL=Pub licati ons/ You need 25 ohms maximum rersistance (three-point method) to say you have a good ground. or, do what most jurisdictions now require, and build yourself a concrete encased grounding electrode (Ufer ground)... no minimum depth, per se. |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
"Dave Lemper" wrote in message
... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE I use a pneumatic rivet gun. Works great. 73, H. NQ5H |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Jim Lux wrote:
Sal M. Onella wrote: Dave Lemper wrote in message ... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE Here's a snippet from the state of Washington's website that quotes the NEC: NEC 250-52 (c)(3) (1999 edition) requires that ground rods "be driven to a depth of not less than 8 feet (2.44m) except that, where rock bottom is encountered, the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or shall be buried in a trench that is at least 2½ ft. (762mm) deep." The requirement is that the rod be driven to a depth of 8 feet. If the rod cannot be driven then there is a choice of either driving it at a 45-degree angle or laying it in a trench that is not less than 2½ feet deep. http://www.lni.wa.gov/tradeslicensin...ts/elc0210.pdf. I browsed some newer discussions and found nothing newer to be at variance with the quoted material. The current NEC is $75 if snippets won't do ya'. http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?c...RL=Pub licati ons/ You need 25 ohms maximum rersistance (three-point method) to say you have a good ground. or, do what most jurisdictions now require, and build yourself a concrete encased grounding electrode (Ufer ground)... no minimum depth, per se. The minimum depth is provided by the building code. Since the footer must be below the frost line the resultant Ufer Ground is also below the frost line. If it's not it will be ineffective. -- Tom Horne "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Earlier, someone wrote:
Renting a back hoe is out. I just skim-read that as "Renting a black hole is out"... well, why not? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
The minimum depth is provided by the building code. Since the footer must be below the frost line the resultant Ufer Ground is also below the frost line. If it's not it will be ineffective. To split hairs a bit, you can build a Ufer ground that isn't a structural footer, and so, may not be subject to the frost line rules. |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Jim Lux wrote:
... To split hairs a bit, you can build a Ufer ground that isn't a structural footer, and so, may not be subject to the frost line rules. In California, in the central valleys, the question is simply, "What frost-line? 8-) Regards, JS |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
In article ,
Ian White GM3SEK wrote: Earlier, someone wrote: Renting a back hoe is out. I just skim-read that as "Renting a black hole is out"... well, why not? Getting your cash deposit back is hell, in those cases. It's as if the rental agency dropped it down... well, you get the idea. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Jim Lux wrote:
The minimum depth is provided by the building code. Since the footer must be below the frost line the resultant Ufer Ground is also below the frost line. If it's not it will be ineffective. To split hairs a bit, you can build a Ufer ground that isn't a structural footer, and so, may not be subject to the frost line rules. Yes Jim he can. But if he does will frost heaves likely destroy it. When I was younger I spent a lot of time building duct banks and they were always built with the base of the bank below the frost line so that the formation of ice in the soil during a hard winter would not destroy them. Remember that even a ground ring composed of straight wire is buried a minimum of thirty inches deep. The objective in constructing grounding electrodes is to get them down below the permanent moisture level well into the so called water table. I know that the subject area is Texas and the strata he's dealing with is quite hard but he didn't seem to be asking how to install what looks like an electrode but rather what will function as an electrode. -- Tom Horne "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave, In the upper midwest we use a waterhose and keep the area damp so it
drives easily. Sometimes the rod will go in with very light hammer blows. Hope it works for you.. Lots of luck, Rollie Dave Lemper wrote in message ... The soil in central Texas is called Caliche with a lot of clay, CaCO3 & shale. Attempting to drive in a ground rod yielded only a mushroom on top & blisters on me. Local tool rental place has concrete bits, but maximum length of 18 inches. Possibly longer bits are available in a larger city. Renting a back hoe is out. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave WB3DWE |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 17:57:32 -0500, Mike Coslo
wrote: "Wayne" wrote in news:BdXrk.527$482.222@trnddc06: As a last resort I will hack a trench with a pick and lay in the rod at a shallow angle to the surface. Would this give an adequate ground ? I could also bond it to an outdoor brass spigot 10 yards away or even to an anchor fence in the other direction. Dave WB3DWE - In my opinion the trench would be ok, but I'll leave that to the experts on the group. However, I remember chiseling through the caliche to be annoying, but not that difficult with the right tools. It can be done with a "shooter" style shovel, but that is a bit more effort. However, I doubt if you would ever get a copper rod driven through without some major damage to the rod. If the soil is permiable to water, you could try another of my hack methods. Sweat a garden hose connection onto a piece of copper tubing. Attach a garden hose to the fitting, and point the rod down in the place you want to sink int. Then let it rip. In my area, we have a few inches of topsoil, than a really hard clay, then rocky clay, followed by sandy clay/sand. It will even move some rocks out of the way. The tubing becomes the ground rod of course. - 73 de Mike N3LI - Water worked ok for me and I replaced the Steel pipe I used with a clad ground rod after I made the "hole". Now on the job I see electricians using a neat tool. I think Milwaukee makes it. It attaches to the rod and hangs off the side and appears to be able to be clamped on anywhere and hammers it into the ground. Seems to work very well under different conditions. Try rental houses first. If ya belong to a club it would be a good club buy. Dan, N9JBF |
How do you get a ground rod to 6 feet ?
Dave WB3DWE wrote in message ... On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:29:03 GMT, "Wayne" wrote: - I lived for many years in the Dallas area. The caliche was down about 2 feet and was about a foot thick. I had to dig a hole with a shovel down to the caliche, then use a heavy hammer and long chisel to get through the caliche. Then, backfill and proceed as normal. Don't know what your configuration would be. Good luck. Thanks Wayne. As a last resort I will hack a trench with a pick and lay in the rod at a shallow angle to the surface. Would this give an adequate ground ? I could also bond it to an outdoor brass spigot 10 yards away or even to an anchor fence in the other direction. Dave WB3DWE Not familiar with that soil, but what would happen if you soaked the ground with water? Would it soften it and/or make a mud that you could sink the rod into? I do that around nere in the NC clay and it works pretty well---unless you hit ROCKS. And that is pretty likely, too. 73 J |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:55 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
RadioBanter.com