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Flakey Ham IV Indicator
I am having fits with my old Ham IV control head readings. The controls
(CCW and CW) work but the meter is flakey. I tried the Cal procedure int he manual but that does not seem to work. Regarding the manual is is useless on the purpose of the Calibrate control. I know it has an IN and OUT position and should be used to set the meter in the full CW postion. What is the 'In' position and what is the 'Out' position? It does not seem to have a great deal of control over the needle. The needles seem to like staying in the far right South postion. Help! Dick - AA5VU |
I just noticed that by cycling the Calibrate switch On/Off the meter
sometimes jumps to the 'correct' location. It stays a few seconds then fall back to the right. Maybe someone has seen this before???? Dick - AA5VU In article , "Dick, AA5VU" wrote: I am having fits with my old Ham IV control head readings. The controls (CCW and CW) work but the meter is flakey. I tried the Cal procedure int he manual but that does not seem to work. Regarding the manual is is useless on the purpose of the Calibrate control. I know it has an IN and OUT position and should be used to set the meter in the full CW postion. What is the 'In' position and what is the 'Out' position? It does not seem to have a great deal of control over the needle. The needles seem to like staying in the far right South postion. Help! Dick - AA5VU |
the 'in' position is the calibration position. you press it in, turn the
knob to set the needle to the right side south stop, then release the button. some models had a knob that locked in the 'in' position so you pressed it in and released it to engage the calibrate circuit then pressed again and released to turn it off. "Dick, AA5VU" wrote in message ... I am having fits with my old Ham IV control head readings. The controls (CCW and CW) work but the meter is flakey. I tried the Cal procedure int he manual but that does not seem to work. Regarding the manual is is useless on the purpose of the Calibrate control. I know it has an IN and OUT position and should be used to set the meter in the full CW postion. What is the 'In' position and what is the 'Out' position? It does not seem to have a great deal of control over the needle. The needles seem to like staying in the far right South postion. Help! Dick - AA5VU |
Dave,
I pushed it IN then out and it snapped toe the antenna location then fell back to South. I messed with Cal switch and every once in a while it would snap back to the corret psition... then fall back to South. Something is wrong Dick - AA5VU In article , "Dave" wrote: the 'in' position is the calibration position. you press it in, turn the knob to set the needle to the right side south stop, then release the button. some models had a knob that locked in the 'in' position so you pressed it in and released it to engage the calibrate circuit then pressed again and released to turn it off |
aRKay wrote:
Dave, I pushed it IN then out and it snapped toe the antenna location then fell back to South. I messed with Cal switch and every once in a while it would snap back to the corret psition... then fall back to South. Something is wrong ....with the cal switch, probably. Possibly dirty contacts, try cycling the switch a dozen or so times, see if that helps. It might need a drop (and I mean just A DROP) of contact cleaner, after which cycle the switch a few times. The switch might need to be replaced. Any other mechanical contacts, like the fuse (holder) mentioned? Are all the screws holding the wires nice and tight? Any broken wires? Good Luck, -W8LNA |
"Dick, AA5VU" wrote:
I am having fits with my old Ham IV control head readings. The controls (CCW and CW) work but the meter is flakey. I tried the Cal procedure int he manual but that does not seem to work. Regarding the manual is is useless on the purpose of the Calibrate control. I know it has an IN and OUT position and should be used to set the meter in the full CW postion. What is the 'In' position and what is the 'Out' position? It does not seem to have a great deal of control over the needle. The needles seem to like staying in the far right South postion. Help! Dick - AA5VU There is a wirewound pot in the rotator unit which tends to get dirty and can lead to erratic readings as well. You can clean it pretty well with a little very fine grit paper, or contact cleaner. It is this pot which tells the meter which direction the antenna is pointing. I also saw one which opened up at one end and had to be replaced. That way way back when, but you should be able to order the part. Replacement is easy. If you do replace it, give it a little spray of contact cleaner before reassembling the rotor unit. Hope this helps... Irv VE6BP -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/ Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/ Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/ -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
You can still buy rotors and parts he http://www.rotorservice.com/
Norm is a real good guy to do business with. 73 Richard WB8KRN There is a wirewound pot in the rotator unit which tends to get dirty and can lead to erratic readings as well. You can clean it pretty well with a little very fine grit paper, or contact cleaner. It is this pot which tells the meter which direction the antenna is pointing. I also saw one which opened up at one end and had to be replaced. That way way back when, but you should be able to order the part. Replacement is easy. If you do replace it, give it a little spray of contact cleaner before reassembling the rotor unit. Hope this helps... Irv VE6BP |
Thanks to Irv and others that responded. I plan to remove the Control
Unit from the rats nest on Monday and try spraying the Calibration pot. I still do not understand the function of the Calibration control? It is a push in/out (maybe for on/off) and trim pot for setting the meter. It has very little control over the needle. At best it does a few degrees to help zero in on South. Irv, where is the wireround pot you mentioned? Thanks again to all that responded. Dick - AA5VU In article , Irv Finkleman wrote: There is a wirewound pot in the rotator unit which tends to get dirty and can lead to erratic readings as well. You can clean it pretty well with a little very fine grit paper, or contact cleaner. It is this pot which tells the meter which direction the antenna is pointing. I also saw one which opened up at one end and had to be replaced. That way way back when, but you should be able to order the part. Replacement is easy. If you do replace it, give it a little spray of contact cleaner before reassembling the rotor unit. Hope this helps... Irv VE6BP |
"Dick, AA5VU" wrote:
Thanks to Irv and others that responded. I plan to remove the Control Unit from the rats nest on Monday and try spraying the Calibration pot. I still do not understand the function of the Calibration control? It is a push in/out (maybe for on/off) and trim pot for setting the meter. It has very little control over the needle. At best it does a few degrees to help zero in on South. Irv, where is the wireround pot you mentioned? Thanks again to all that responded. Dick - AA5VU Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather the pot in the rotor itself. If you open the rotor, you can't miss it, it is at the highest point and has a large copper wiper arm. Still, it wouldn't hurt to spray the calibration pot just in case although I have never heard of any problems with that particular pot. I presume you have a manual -- if you look at the interconnection between the control unit and the rotor unit you will see how the pot in the rotor sends the position down to the control unit. When you open the rotor, be very careful as there is a large bearing with balls about 3/8 inch diameter some of which may fall out. They are easy to set in place, but if you are working in an area where they can roll off the workbench into awkward places -- which Murphy's Law says they will -- the job is more difficult. Also note the relative position of things because incorrect assembly of the mechanical linkage between top and bottom will result in big problems. If you are reasonably mechanically adept, you shouldn't have any problem. You might even consider asking around among the local hams -- there are probably a few who have already been inside one and would be willing to share their expertise. Once you have fixed things up you will find the calibration control has considerable control over the meter setting. I hope this helps! Irv VE6BP -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/ Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/ Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/ -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv.
The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor service has the parts for a reasonable price. Good luck! WK0F, Terry Irv Finkleman wrote in message ... "Dick, AA5VU" wrote: Thanks to Irv and others that responded. I plan to remove the Control Unit from the rats nest on Monday and try spraying the Calibration pot. I still do not understand the function of the Calibration control? It is a push in/out (maybe for on/off) and trim pot for setting the meter. It has very little control over the needle. At best it does a few degrees to help zero in on South. Irv, where is the wireround pot you mentioned? Thanks again to all that responded. Dick - AA5VU Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather the pot in the rotor itself. If you open the rotor, you can't miss it, it is at the highest point and has a large copper wiper arm. Still, it wouldn't hurt to spray the calibration pot just in case although I have never heard of any problems with that particular pot. I presume you have a manual -- if you look at the interconnection between the control unit and the rotor unit you will see how the pot in the rotor sends the position down to the control unit. When you open the rotor, be very careful as there is a large bearing with balls about 3/8 inch diameter some of which may fall out. They are easy to set in place, but if you are working in an area where they can roll off the workbench into awkward places -- which Murphy's Law says they will -- the job is more difficult. Also note the relative position of things because incorrect assembly of the mechanical linkage between top and bottom will result in big problems. If you are reasonably mechanically adept, you shouldn't have any problem. You might even consider asking around among the local hams -- there are probably a few who have already been inside one and would be willing to share their expertise. Once you have fixed things up you will find the calibration control has considerable control over the meter setting. I hope this helps! Irv VE6BP -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/ Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/ Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/ -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
Irv/Terry,
Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor at this time. Talk about a PITA dick -aa5vu In article , Irv Finkleman wrote: Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather the pot in the rotor itself. In article , (Terry Ashland) wrote: I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv. The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor service has the parts for a reasonable price. Good luck! WK0F, Terry |
Irv/Terry,
Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor at this time. Talk about a PITA dick -aa5vu In article , Irv Finkleman wrote: Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather the pot in the rotor itself. In article , (Terry Ashland) wrote: I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv. The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor service has the parts for a reasonable price. Good luck! WK0F, Terry |
Irv/Terry,
Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor at this time. Talk about a PITA dick -aa5vu In article , Irv Finkleman wrote: Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather the pot in the rotor itself. In article , (Terry Ashland) wrote: I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv. The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor service has the parts for a reasonable price. Good luck! WK0F, Terry |
I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate' control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air? By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal! Dick - AA5VU |
aRKay wrote:
I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate' control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air? Silicon spray is not a cleaner and will do little if anything and could possibly do harm. It is not a moisture problem either so need to dry it out. WD-40 works well as a contact cleaner and will do the trick. Fooling around with it and occasionally seeing the correct beam position still points to the pot in the rotor unit -- it is dirty, but does make intermittent contact at which time you do see the correct position. There are no shortcuts. If cleaning the calibration control pot does not fix the problem, then you have to climb the mast! Better now than winter -- it won't get any better just sitting up there. You can always position a mirror outside which will give you a convenient view of the antenna position through a handy window. Don't laugh! That's what I did until I got the replacement part. Irv -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/ Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/ Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/ -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate' control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air? I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time, and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want for electrical contacts. I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication / treatment process. By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal! If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the "calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or replace the fouled sensor. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
WD40 is awful, Get the deoxit.
"Dave Platt" wrote in message ... I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate' control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air? I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time, and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want for electrical contacts. I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication / treatment process. By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal! If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the "calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or replace the fouled sensor. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
Thanks for the recommendation. FYI, the problem is history and noted in
my other posting. The combination of spraying the Calibrate pot and fixing where he lamp was shorting to the case FIXED the problem. It now works like new. I used the RS cleaner but will keep the deoxit in mind for other projects. At least I did not have to climb the tower to fix the problem dick aa5vu In article , "Jimmy" wrote: WD40 is awful, Get the deoxit. "Dave Platt" wrote in message ... I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate' control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air? I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time, and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want for electrical contacts. I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication / treatment process. By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal! If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the "calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or replace the fouled sensor. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
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