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Remote tuner
Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw
antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art |
Remote tuner
On Oct 31, 7:49*pm, Art Unwin wrote:
Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art why would you need a tuner, isn't your super antenna flat from dc to daylight? |
Remote tuner
On Oct 31, 3:00*pm, K1TTT wrote:
On Oct 31, 7:49*pm, Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art why would you need a tuner, isn't your super antenna flat from dc to daylight? I knew that was coming! My antenna project is finished and active on the grass Now winter is coming I need another project. I wanted the antenna to pan up and down for best angle automatically but I am short on ideas. So seeing the tuner on Ebay reminded me of a project that got away. The antenna has only been tested down to top band as I am not equipted to go down lower and the mfj only goes up to 170. I suppose I can take the tuner to a hamfest but it has been a few years since I went to one. I am using a window wiper motor for the up and down so it would be nice to make that automatic if more gain is available. |
Remote tuner
In article
, Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. |
Remote tuner
you wrote:
It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. There's a fair amount of moderately recent literature on efficient algorithms for adjusting a tuner. I have a recent paper from Sun and Fidler at Univ of York that looks interesting, but I haven't read it yet. "High Speed Automatic Antenna Tuning Units" IEE Conf on Ant and Prop, 4-7 April 1995, page 218ff |
Remote tuner
On Nov 1, 12:34*pm, you wrote:
In article , *Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. My problem as far as I can see is that the control for the AH2 is that the innards are transferable but it only controls two motors where as my tuner has three. I suppose I could just use two and not utelise the fine tune inductor. Will sleep on it for a while and look at the AH4 version or in the worst case fine tune by hand if necessary. I suspect the fine tune is not really necessary in most cases other than satisfy the over zealious swr users |
Remote tuner
Art Unwin wrote:
On Nov 1, 12:34 pm, you wrote: In article , Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. My problem as far as I can see is that the control for the AH2 is that the innards are transferable but it only controls two motors where as my tuner has three. I suppose I could just use two and not utelise the fine tune inductor. Will sleep on it for a while and look at the AH4 version or in the worst case fine tune by hand if necessary. I suspect the fine tune is not really necessary in most cases other than satisfy the over zealious swr users If you can guarantee that the real part of the feed point impedance is always higher or lower than your transmission line Z, then you can use an L network, which only requires 2 adjustable components. You see a lot of these sorts of schemes with physically short radiators, where the Rfeed is always less than 50 ohms. L networks have the nice property that there's only one setting that "works" which is nice in an automated system. I think the usual scheme is to spin the C pretty fast and slowly ramp the L, and then stop both motors when the match is "good enough". For relay based systems there are better algorithms for finding the best match that take less time. |
Remote tuner
On Nov 1, 7:59*pm, Jim Lux wrote:
Art Unwin wrote: On Nov 1, 12:34 pm, you wrote: In article , *Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. My problem as far as I can see is that the control for the AH2 is that the innards are transferable but it only controls two motors where as my tuner has three. I suppose I could just use two and not utelise the fine tune inductor. Will sleep on it for a while and look at the AH4 version or in the worst case fine tune by hand if necessary. I suspect the fine tune is not really necessary in most cases other than satisfy the over zealious swr users If you can guarantee that the real part of the feed point impedance is always higher or lower than your transmission line Z, then you can use an L network, which only requires 2 adjustable components. You see a lot of these sorts of schemes with physically short radiators, where the Rfeed is always less than 50 ohms. L networks have the nice property that there's only one setting that "works" which is nice in an automated system. *I think the usual scheme is to spin the C pretty fast and slowly ramp the L, and then stop both motors when the match is "good enough". For relay based systems there are better algorithms for finding the best match that take less time. I think that is what the Icom radios use as a internal tuner which I believe is the same as the external AH 2. So with not wanting to invent the wheel, all I need to do is uprate the motor supply of the external tuner and transfer the wiring from the icom internal tuner. As I said previously, I will sleep on it for a while to be sure Regards Art |
Remote tuner
On Nov 1, 7:59*pm, Jim Lux wrote:
Art Unwin wrote: On Nov 1, 12:34 pm, you wrote: In article , *Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. My problem as far as I can see is that the control for the AH2 is that the innards are transferable but it only controls two motors where as my tuner has three. I suppose I could just use two and not utelise the fine tune inductor. Will sleep on it for a while and look at the AH4 version or in the worst case fine tune by hand if necessary. I suspect the fine tune is not really necessary in most cases other than satisfy the over zealious swr users If you can guarantee that the real part of the feed point impedance is always higher or lower than your transmission line Z, then you can use an L network, which only requires 2 adjustable components. You see a lot of these sorts of schemes with physically short radiators, where the Rfeed is always less than 50 ohms. L networks have the nice property that there's only one setting that "works" which is nice in an automated system. *I think the usual scheme is to spin the C pretty fast and slowly ramp the L, and then stop both motors when the match is "good enough". For relay based systems there are better algorithms for finding the best match that take less time. Jim, thinking a bit more about the pre conditions you gave regarding the feed line impedance. The only way I can think that you can be sure that the antenna never goes below that impedance is to have a ladder line of infinite length used as feeder and the load or the load in Meander radiator form The ladder line being Meander in form regardles of physical arrangement. Of course it would have to shielded to prevent static or proximitry effects. But the question remains as to why you imposed your conditions! Can you share what you had in mind? Regards Art |
Remote tuner
Art Unwin wrote:
On Nov 1, 7:59 pm, Jim Lux wrote: Art Unwin wrote: On Nov 1, 12:34 pm, you wrote: In article , Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. My problem as far as I can see is that the control for the AH2 is that the innards are transferable but it only controls two motors where as my tuner has three. I suppose I could just use two and not utelise the fine tune inductor. Will sleep on it for a while and look at the AH4 version or in the worst case fine tune by hand if necessary. I suspect the fine tune is not really necessary in most cases other than satisfy the over zealious swr users If you can guarantee that the real part of the feed point impedance is always higher or lower than your transmission line Z, then you can use an L network, which only requires 2 adjustable components. You see a lot of these sorts of schemes with physically short radiators, where the Rfeed is always less than 50 ohms. L networks have the nice property that there's only one setting that "works" which is nice in an automated system. I think the usual scheme is to spin the C pretty fast and slowly ramp the L, and then stop both motors when the match is "good enough". For relay based systems there are better algorithms for finding the best match that take less time. Jim, thinking a bit more about the pre conditions you gave regarding the feed line impedance. The only way I can think that you can be sure that the antenna never goes below that impedance is to have a ladder line of infinite length used as feeder and the load or the load in Meander radiator form The ladder line being Meander in form regardles of physical arrangement. Of course it would have to shielded to prevent static or proximitry effects. But the question remains as to why you imposed your conditions! Can you share what you had in mind? Regards Art An L network match either RloadRgen or RloadRgen, depending on which side the shunt element is on. In autotuners using an L network (e.g. the LDG boxes), they have a relay that switches the shunt C to either end of the series L. In autotuners using a Pi network (e.g. the SGC boxes), there's shunt elements on both ends, so you can match anything (subject to the component ranges). So if you have a motorized C and a motorized L, you'd need to add a relay to switch the configuration to be able to "match anything" By the way, a L or Pi network cannot match Rgen=Rload, but you can do it trivially setting both C's to zero and the L to zero. It's not really an L or Pi (or T) network then, which is why some automated network calculators choke on it. A real autotuner doesn't care, because it almost always starts in the "bypass" position anyway. |
Remote tuner
On Nov 2, 8:17*pm, Jim Lux wrote:
Art Unwin wrote: On Nov 1, 7:59 pm, Jim Lux wrote: Art Unwin wrote: On Nov 1, 12:34 pm, you wrote: In article , *Art Unwin wrote: Browsing thru E bay I came across a 1kw antenna tuner for sale from Cyprus.Now in my younger days I got hold of one of these and intended to salvage a Icom AH2 to somehow make it remote since I use Icom radios. After all there are only three motors that have to be driven! Now I am retired I pulled my old one from storage after seeing the same on E bay. Question is are there any kits, salvage ideas out there that would get me going on this long lost project? I have never used a external tuner but this seems like a realistic project to play with. Of course if there is a unit out there that I can salvage a controller that is all the better. There are very good photos of this particular tuner on E bay but like mine it has no controller! I suppose I could feed a 10 watt signal to it and control the motors by hand to tune but I do like the idea of automation. Regards Art It isn't the tuner hardware that is going to be a problem, as much as designing the tuning algorithm that drives the hardware. Mark Johnson did a very good job, reverse engineering the stuff that Bill Shield brought west from Motorola Military back in the 70's for the SEA Autotuners. SGC copied the SEA Firmware & Design enbank, for their stuff. The best stuff, was the stuff Collins did for their Military Autotuners. Starting from scratch is going to be a BIG design project. |
Remote tuner
On Tue, 02 Nov 2010 18:17:10 -0700, Jim Lux
wrote: Art Unwin wrote: [snip] An L network match either RloadRgen or RloadRgen, depending on which side the shunt element is on. In autotuners using an L network (e.g. the LDG boxes), they have a relay that switches the shunt C to either end of the series L. In autotuners using a Pi network (e.g. the SGC boxes), there's shunt elements on both ends, so you can match anything (subject to the component ranges). So if you have a motorized C and a motorized L, you'd need to add a relay to switch the configuration to be able to "match anything" By the way, a L or Pi network cannot match Rgen=Rload, but you can do it trivially setting both C's to zero and the L to zero. It's not really an L or Pi (or T) network then, which is why some automated network calculators choke on it. A real autotuner doesn't care, because it almost always starts in the "bypass" position anyway. That is a great post! I am slowly working towards a motor driven remote T-Match roller tuner. I intend to use the same algorithm that I use to operate a manual tuner. That is to start with the capacitors at center, the inductor at minimum. Run the inductor down until the minimum SWR and center it there. Then do the same with the transmitter side capacitor. Finally, do the same with the antenna side capacitor. The controlling SWR signal is from the transmitter point. I am concerned about making the transmitter happy as quick as possible. I expect that this is not be the optimum match but it will serve the purpose of making the transmitter happy. I start with the inductor because the losses are greater there so less inductance is likely to have lower losses. I had overlooked that I do try shunting the tuner first. After having explained that I realize there is probably a better way. I will try starting with Max transmitter side C, Min Inductor and Minimum antenna side C. I think the ideal procedure would be to calculate the needed match, build it to minimum loss (in the tuner) and switch it in. I will have to think about that... John Ferrell W8CCW |
Remote tuner
John Ferrell wrote in
: .... I am slowly working towards a motor driven remote T-Match roller tuner. I intend to use the same algorithm that I use to operate a manual tuner. Then you have a considerable challenge. That is to start with the capacitors at center, the inductor at minimum. Run the inductor down until the minimum SWR and center it there. Then do the same with the transmitter side capacitor. Finally, do the same with the antenna side capacitor. The controlling SWR signal is from the transmitter point. If you want to automate this, you really need to know more than just the SWR (or magnitude of Gamma, the complex reflection coefficient), or a related signal (such as 'relected power'). Have a look at some practical implementations, and see how they work. You have a three variable problem to solve, and one input value (using your proposed method). I am concerned about making the transmitter happy as quick as Ah, 'happy' transmitters, as in the ATU's purpose in life is to make the transmitter happy. possible. I expect that this is not be the optimum match but it will serve the purpose of making the transmitter happy. One of the design decisions you should make is how close to perfection is the target 'match', and what do you do if it changes during operation. Can you determine an optimum match (meaning VSWR=1, efficiency=max) using SWR? I start with the inductor because the losses are greater there so less inductance is likely to have lower losses. I had overlooked that I do try shunting the tuner first. In the real world, it gets a little more complicated that the classic Rules of Thumb (RoT). Inductor Q is not constant with varying L, capacitor Q (or D) is significant if ceramic caps are used (as in many autotuners). After having explained that I realize there is probably a better way. I will try starting with Max transmitter side C, Min Inductor and Minimum antenna side C. I think the ideal procedure would be to calculate the needed match, build it to minimum loss (in the tuner) and switch it in. I will have to think about that... If it were me, I would create a software simulation of the algorithm, and include real physical times in the simulation. See if your algorithm converges on a stable and correct solution, and then, how quickly it does it. Owen |
Remote tuner
On Nov 3, 4:04*pm, Owen Duffy wrote:
John Ferrell wrote : ... I am slowly working towards a motor driven remote T-Match roller tuner. I intend to use the same algorithm that I use to operate a manual tuner. Then you have a considerable challenge. That is to start with the capacitors at center, the inductor at minimum. Run the inductor down until the minimum SWR and center it there. Then do the same with the transmitter side capacitor. Finally, do the same with the antenna side capacitor. The controlling SWR signal is from the transmitter point. If you want to automate this, you really need to know more than just the SWR (or magnitude of Gamma, the complex reflection coefficient), or a related signal (such as 'relected power'). Have a look at some practical implementations, and see how they work. You have a three variable problem to solve, and one input value (using your proposed method). I am concerned about making the transmitter happy as quick as Ah, 'happy' transmitters, as in the ATU's purpose in life is to make the transmitter happy. possible. I expect that this is not be the optimum match but it will serve the purpose of making the transmitter happy. One of the design decisions you should make is how close to perfection is the target 'match', and what do you do if it changes during operation. Can you determine an optimum match (meaning VSWR=1, efficiency=max) using * SWR? I start with the inductor because the losses are greater there so less inductance is likely to have lower losses. I had overlooked that I do try shunting the tuner first. In the real world, it gets a little more complicated that the classic Rules of Thumb (RoT). Inductor Q is not constant with varying L, capacitor Q (or D) is significant if ceramic caps are used (as in many autotuners). After having explained that I realize there is probably a better way. I will try starting with Max transmitter side C, Min Inductor and Minimum antenna side C. I think the ideal procedure would be to calculate the needed match, build it to minimum loss (in the tuner) and switch it in. I will have to think about that... If it were me, I would create a software simulation of the algorithm, and include real physical times in the simulation. See if your algorithm converges on a stable and correct solution, and then, how quickly it does it. Owen Owen Most radios have a tuner inbuilt or as an add on. These types are ripe to uprate the components for high power for placing at the antenna whilst keeping all the controls at the operating position. This way you keep the lower power timing and other tuner controls in position as well as the memories and of course band changes so you don't have to reinvent the wheel or use skills that you don.t have |
Remote tuner
On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 21:04:04 GMT, Owen Duffy wrote:
John Ferrell wrote in : ... I am slowly working towards a motor driven remote T-Match roller tuner. I intend to use the same algorithm that I use to operate a manual tuner. Then you have a considerable challenge. That is to start with the capacitors at center, the inductor at minimum. Run the inductor down until the minimum SWR and center it there. Then do the same with the transmitter side capacitor. Finally, do the same with the antenna side capacitor. The controlling SWR signal is from the transmitter point. If you want to automate this, you really need to know more than just the SWR (or magnitude of Gamma, the complex reflection coefficient), or a related signal (such as 'relected power'). Have a look at some practical implementations, and see how they work. You have a three variable problem to solve, and one input value (using your proposed method). I am concerned about making the transmitter happy as quick as Ah, 'happy' transmitters, as in the ATU's purpose in life is to make the transmitter happy. possible. I expect that this is not be the optimum match but it will serve the purpose of making the transmitter happy. One of the design decisions you should make is how close to perfection is the target 'match', and what do you do if it changes during operation. Can you determine an optimum match (meaning VSWR=1, efficiency=max) using SWR? I start with the inductor because the losses are greater there so less inductance is likely to have lower losses. I had overlooked that I do try shunting the tuner first. In the real world, it gets a little more complicated that the classic Rules of Thumb (RoT). Inductor Q is not constant with varying L, capacitor Q (or D) is significant if ceramic caps are used (as in many autotuners). After having explained that I realize there is probably a better way. I will try starting with Max transmitter side C, Min Inductor and Minimum antenna side C. I think the ideal procedure would be to calculate the needed match, build it to minimum loss (in the tuner) and switch it in. I will have to think about that... If it were me, I would create a software simulation of the algorithm, and include real physical times in the simulation. See if your algorithm converges on a stable and correct solution, and then, how quickly it does it. Owen It looks like a "not-to-complicated" problem to me. I hit a wall somewhere along the way, I will have to give it a try to find out. I am not seeking a perfect solution, just a homebrew project to solve a problem. I never thought I would own an HF amplifier but now I do. I am accustomed to the convenience of an SGC-237 tuner in the shed next to the vertical antenna. Too much power for the tuner so I have slowly acquired the parts to construct the High power tuner project. Not a Bread board but more like a cabinet door prototype. After all, it will be on a shelf in the shed. I am thinking a PIC micro controller (I have tools & Experience) and electric screwdriver actuators. Ugly Construction is beautiful IF IT WORKS! BTW, it is one of many low priority projects I have... John Ferrell W8CCW |
Remote tuner
An L network match either RloadRgen or RloadRgen, depending on which side the shunt element is on. It's not quite that simple. For example, a load of 5+j30 requires the same L-match configuration to match to 50 Ohms as does 500+j30: shunt C at the Load end in both cases. Steve G3TXQ |
Remote tuner
On Nov 4, 10:09*pm, steveeh131047 wrote:
An L network match either RloadRgen or RloadRgen, depending on which side the shunt element is on. It's not quite that simple. For example, a load of 5+j30 requires the same L-match configuration to match to 50 Ohms as does 500+j30: shunt C at the Load end in both cases. Steve G3TXQ Conversely, a load of 10+j22 needs the shunt C across the load, whereas 10+j18 needs shunt C across the generator. Steve G3TXQ |
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