Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

On Sun, 29 Apr 2012 22:59:25 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I never considered that -- oh well, it should only take a jiffy
to pop the diodes out although there is always Murphy to
take into account.

Umm... the diodes don't quite pop out in a jiffy. You must first tear
apart the instrument just to get to the diodes. They're tiny little
devils, best handled with stainless SMD tweezers.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/mfj-269b-diodes.jpg
They're the 4 black things labeled "COB". If you order some from
Digikey or Mouser, be sure to get plenty of spares. I dropped two on
my workbench, where they promptly disappeared.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

On Sun, 29 Apr 2012 22:59:25 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I have the W8JI procedure tucked away in a safe
place on my computer where I may never find it again,
Thank heaven for good search tools.

Try "Search Everything".
http://www.voidtools.com
If you can remember parts of the file name or folder, it will find it
instantly.

The procedure took me 2 full days on an MFJ-269B. It went much
quicker after I read and followed the instructions.

Now there's a very unhamlike suggestion -- wouldn't stopping
to read and follow the instructions severely slow down the
calibration procedure?

I consider reading instructions a sign of weakness, especially when
customers are watching. When they see me reading the docs, they
usually ask if I know what I'm doing, or if I had done this before. In
order to maintain my image, I try not to be seen reading the docs.

However, I do read the instructions..... after I'm done, and only to
see if I missed anything. On the MFJ-269B calibration, and after
starting over for the 3rd or 4th time, I decided that it might be
useful to just do it right, reading from beginning to end.

At the moment I'm considering how to rotate it, and
wondering if I couldn't use a wooden ladder with lots
of wire stapled to it in a multiband Hentenna configuration!
I guess I may have to rethink it and take it one step at
a time! Now, I have to consider which rotor. Do you by
chance know offhand the wind load of a 20 ft Al ladder?

No, but I could probably calculate the wind load if I had the
dimensions. Ice load will probably be the worst case. However, I
don't think a rotatable ladder would be a good or useful idea. The
ladder is mostly vertical, and rotation of a vertical doesn't do
anything useful. I suggest you leave it leaning against the building
and live with whatever that produces.

Incidentally, if there's anyone living directly below you, they may
object to having the ladder block their view. My friend's ladder
antenna was possible because his condo was a townhouse arrangement,
where he owned both the lower and upper windows.

How about a folding ladder for the sake of extra length?

The 20ft ladder I used was a 2 section telescoping ladder. I had the
not so bright idea of changing the length in order to tune the antenna
to something near 1/4 wavelength. I also experimented with an
insulating sleeve between the two sections in an attempt to make a
vertical dipole. Both proved of dubious value as the best results
were from using the full length ladder and an antenna tuner.

I'm not sure what a folding ladder will do except to add weight and
attract unwanted attention. I just gave away two steel folding
ladders. They weighed far too much but were admittedly quite useful.

I'll use double sideband so that it won't matter which end of
the ladder I feed it from!

Be sure to tilt your radio vertically to match the antenna
polarization.

Cheers, this is fun!

If it were easy, it would not be fun.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 Apr 2012 22:59:25 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I never considered that -- oh well, it should only take a jiffy
to pop the diodes out although there is always Murphy to
take into account.

Umm... the diodes don't quite pop out in a jiffy. You must first tear
apart the instrument just to get to the diodes. They're tiny little
devils, best handled with stainless SMD tweezers.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/mfj-269b-diodes.jpg
They're the 4 black things labeled "COB". If you order some from
Digikey or Mouser, be sure to get plenty of spares. I dropped two on
my workbench, where they promptly disappeared.

After I retired from the Navy I worked for Sony as a tech for 14
years and became pretty handy with SMD. When I retired from Sony
I kept my tools which included a headband magnifier and a few
different tweezers only one of which I consistently used. I do
recall losing one or two of the smaller SMD components but
I eventually learned to take precautions to avoid doing so..

With respect to taking things apart and then getting them
back together again I have to brag about my abilities. When
I had my first interview with Sony the asked me how much
of the work I considered electronic and how much was
mechanical. I estimated 90 percent mechanical (getting
the old part out and putting the new part in and then
the unit back together). I know now that it is more like
99.9%.

Oh well, I guess I'll just have to try and not blow
the diodes even though we both believe it will be
inevitable!

Irv VE6BP

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:06:53 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

After I retired from the Navy I worked for Sony as a tech for 14
years and became pretty handy with SMD.

I worked for Sony/Superscope in Sunland-Tujunga California for a short
while in the mid 1960's. Too far to drive from where I was living and
going to skool.

When I retired from Sony
I kept my tools which included a headband magnifier and a few
different tweezers only one of which I consistently used.

Does your former boss know about this? Is there a reward for turning
you in? If you're going to pilfer the tools, at least take something
expensive.

I left one company with my junk parts box, my collection of component
samples, a DVM, and my favorite screwdriver. I probably could have
taken a load of test equipment, as nobody seemed to care. I figured
the dumpster would be full of junk after the layoff/purge. I was
right and collected quite a pile of goodies from the dumpster. I also
suspected that my project notes would be thrown away, so I grabbed
those. Many years later, the company raised one project from the dead
and called asking if I had any history on the project. Like a fool, I
just gave it to them, instead of demanding payment.

Like all products, my ancient products eventually hit the surplus
market. Like all good surplus equipment, there were no manuals to be
found. So, like a complete fool, I scanned the manuals and posted
them to my web pile. I now waste far too much time answering
questions and helping with repairs. Lesson learned: Products tend to
rise from the dead and will haunt you like zombies.

I do
recall losing one or two of the smaller SMD components but
I eventually learned to take precautions to avoid doing so..

My standard precaution is to buy extra parts. The parts are cheap. My
time is not. I use metal egg trays for parts storage. However, I
also tend to tip those over or bury them in junk. My latest trick is
using semi-sticky window shelf paper to hold parts. That works great
after I remove the flies, bugs, and glue eating banana slugs.

With respect to taking things apart and then getting them
back together again I have to brag about my abilities. When
I had my first interview with Sony the asked me how much
of the work I considered electronic and how much was
mechanical. I estimated 90 percent mechanical (getting
the old part out and putting the new part in and then
the unit back together). I know now that it is more like
99.9%.

Agreed. When I started in engineering, it was 99.9% engineering and
0.01% politics. 15 years or so later, it was 99.9% politics and 0.01%
engineering. Productivity was about the same in both cases. Now that
I'm officially in the repair biz, my guess is about 33% repair, 33%
paper shuffling, and 33% customer ego support.

One nice thing about ham radio is that if I announce that I'm working
on a project, and I procrastinate enough, then one of the local hams
will eventually do it for me. See Tom Sawyer white washing a fence
for details on how it works.

Oh well, I guess I'll just have to try and not blow
the diodes even though we both believe it will be
inevitable!

Not really. As I previously ranted, only certain people seem to blow
up the diodes. If you haven't blown any diodes by now, you're
probably safe. Just don't loan it to any of your friends, especially
on Field Day[1]. What seems to kill the analyzers is the act of
plugging in and unplugging a PL-259 to the unit. The PL-259 is unique
in that the center pin makes contact before the ground. This is
what's commonly known as a lousy idea. If you've built up a static
charge with your clothes and shoes, and are holding the shield, you'll
discharge yourself through the center pin and directly into the
diodes. That's my guess(tm) as to what's happening. I now make it a
habit of touching the center pin to case ground, before plugging in.
No clue if it helps, but it seems like a good idea. The N connector
on the MFJ-269B should not have this problem, but they seem to blow up
anyway, probably due to a different failure mechanism.

Irv VE6BP

[1] Hint: Measure the DC voltage on the traditional Field Day
balloon supported long wire antenna, especially if there's some wind.
If the DVM doesn't explode, you're still not safe.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

When I retired from Sony
I kept my tools which included a headband magnifier and a few
different tweezers only one of which I consistently used.

Does your former boss know about this? Is there a reward for turning
you in? If you're going to pilfer the tools, at least take something
expensive.


I actually asked permission. It is because I have always been
fair and honest that I am known as 'Fairly Honest Irv'.
I couldn't take any test equipment or the Fluke 77, but
I luckily picked one up for $25 at a flea market.

My standard precaution is to buy extra parts. The parts are cheap. My
time is not. I use metal egg trays for parts storage. However, I
also tend to tip those over or bury them in junk. My latest trick is
using semi-sticky window shelf paper to hold parts. That works great
after I remove the flies, bugs, and glue eating banana slugs.

I use the sticky tape method too! Now If I could just find where
it put it!


Agreed. When I started in engineering, it was 99.9% engineering and
0.01% politics. 15 years or so later, it was 99.9% politics and 0.01%
engineering. Productivity was about the same in both cases. Now that
I'm officially in the repair biz, my guess is about 33% repair, 33%
paper shuffling, and 33% customer ego support.

GRIN

One nice thing about ham radio is that if I announce that I'm working
on a project, and I procrastinate enough, then one of the local hams
will eventually do it for me. See Tom Sawyer white washing a fence
for details on how it works.

That's pretty common here in town. If an antenna is being
raised, even digging the hole for a tower, there is usually a
good turnout of the younger more able hams. Some say
that hams aren't like they used to be, but for the most part
I find them a good crowd.

Not really. As I previously ranted, only certain people seem to blow
up the diodes. If you haven't blown any diodes by now, you're
probably safe. Just don't loan it to any of your friends, especially
on Field Day[1]. What seems to kill the analyzers is the act of
plugging in and unplugging a PL-259 to the unit. The PL-259 is unique
in that the center pin makes contact before the ground. This is
what's commonly known as a lousy idea. If you've built up a static
charge with your clothes and shoes, and are holding the shield, you'll
discharge yourself through the center pin and directly into the
diodes. That's my guess(tm) as to what's happening. I now make it a
habit of touching the center pin to case ground, before plugging in.
No clue if it helps, but it seems like a good idea. The N connector
on the MFJ-269B should not have this problem, but they seem to blow up
anyway, probably due to a different failure mechanism.

I wouldn't even loan it to my mother, had she been a ham,
but I've carried it to a few hams but did the testing myself.
It cost more than most of my rigs!

Irv VE6BP

[1] Hint: Measure the DC voltage on the traditional Field Day
balloon supported long wire antenna, especially if there's some wind.
If the DVM doesn't explode, you're still not safe.

When I was still a pretty green ham, I heard a snapping noise
one night -- found it coming from the tuner! Wouldn't touch it
till it stopped! I eventually learned about wind static.

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:32:09 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I actually asked permission. It is because I have always been
fair and honest that I am known as 'Fairly Honest Irv'.

If caught, I usually ask for forgiveness. It's easier than asking for
permission. I've gone by various names, none of which involve being
honest.

I couldn't take any test equipment or the Fluke 77, but
I luckily picked one up for $25 at a flea market.

I liberated my Fluke 75. Great DVM.

That's pretty common here in town. If an antenna is being
raised, even digging the hole for a tower, there is usually a
good turnout of the younger more able hams. Some say
that hams aren't like they used to be, but for the most part
I find them a good crowd.

The local help is mixed. In general, a work crew can be organized,
but it's not like it was 20-30 years ago. The problem is that the
bulk of the ham population is aging and thus unable to do many of the
dumb and dangerous things that are considered normal for younger hams.
I gave up tower climbing at age=50 and steep roof climbing at age=60.
If I can't find a way to not trip over the coax cables and walk into
the guy wires on my roof, I may need to give up flat roofs.

When dealing with 100ft+ trees, I hire a professional tree climber. I
also have him prune the tree at the same time. I have two stainless
sailing blocks (pulleys) up in the trees for raising wire antennas.
Unfortunately, the rope used to raise the antenna rotted and broke. If
I can find an excuse, I'll hire a tree climber to replace the ropes.

I wouldn't even loan it to my mother, had she been a ham,
but I've carried it to a few hams but did the testing myself.
It cost more than most of my rigs!

The MFJ-259B sells for $240 from various dealers. Your FT-817ND sells
new for about $600. Either you overpaid, or you're getting a sweet
deal on the radios.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Indoor Counterpoise For Random Wire Antenna
 

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:32:09 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:


I wouldn't even loan it to my mother, had she been a ham,
but I've carried it to a few hams but did the testing myself.
It cost more than most of my rigs!

The MFJ-259B sells for $240 from various dealers. Your FT-817ND sells
new for about $600. Either you overpaid, or you're getting a sweet
deal on the radios.

The FT-817ND is my first store bought rig. Prior to my downfall
from good health, I always had either surplus which I'd converted,
or old rigs off the local Swap 'N Shops which needed repair. As
much as I say I'm going QRP, if I can pick up an old Kenwood
tube-job I think I'll give it a go! Unless I have a number of knobs
and switches to play with I sense a loss of control running the
new stuff.

A TS-820 or 830 would be great -- I had an
820 that really performed for me for a long time -- I gave it
away when I went in the hospital. I repaired a lot of Kenwoods
Swans and Yaesu's (not to mention other makes) for old-timers
and really enjoyed fixing them. I repaired a lot of the
newer solid-state rigs as well, but preferred the old
classics. I have a lead on the 820 I gave away, and may
end up getting it back. When I got it, it didn't have the
DC converter or the digital display but I managed to find
them on a cannibalized unit. It even had the
CW filter.. The only other thing I'd need would be
a keyer for a beautiful mint Bencher key I picked up
from an estate sale. The beauty of the Kenwoods is
that as long as 6146s and 12BY7s are available I know
I can keep them running.

Irv VE6BP