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RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an
RV/Mobilehome. The antenna is vertical whip most times, about 7m. It is a modified fishing pole with a wire up the centre and a 1m detachable whip. A 4mm ' banana' plug is the feed point for a flying lead to the Auto -tuner, one of the SGC range. I generally use a counterpoise, or several, but having these laying around campsites where non- amateurs may trip etc. concerns me. The setup is only used when parked up. I'm looking for 'out of the box' ideas, I can fit in a camping 'pitch' and setup /tear down quickly. -- 73 Brian G8OSN/W8OSN www.g8osn.net |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Brian Reay" wrote in message
... Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. The antenna is vertical whip most times, about 7m. It is a modified fishing pole with a wire up the centre and a 1m detachable whip. A 4mm ' banana' plug is the feed point for a flying lead to the Auto -tuner, one of the SGC range. I generally use a counterpoise, or several, but having these laying around campsites where non- amateurs may trip etc. concerns me. The setup is only used when parked up. I'm looking for 'out of the box' ideas, I can fit in a camping 'pitch' and setup /tear down quickly. "if you understand the theory and maths and can do the calculations. Easy enough for someone who knows his stuff." |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote:
Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"W5DXP" wrote in message
... On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? That is the blindingly obvious answer, especially with a vehicle as large as a motorhome. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 12:20:08 -0000, "gareth"
wrote: "W5DXP" wrote in message ... On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? That is the blindingly obvious answer, especially with a vehicle as large as a motorhome. Wrap it in tinfoil..simple! |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
W5DXP wrote:
On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com Sorry, I should have said, the antenna is not mounted on the vehicle. I use a small tripod. Running one coax shortish coax with a power lead taped to it is fine but a long , or several long, counter poises are what concern me. 73, Brian |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Brian Reay" wrote in message
... W5DXP wrote: On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com Sorry, I should have said, the antenna is not mounted on the vehicle. I use a small tripod. Running one coax shortish coax with a power lead taped to it is fine but a long , or several long, counter poises are what concern me. Then run a "shortish" earth braid from the vehicle's chassis to the antenna. It really is not rocket science. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:08:58 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay
wrote: I'm looking for 'out of the box' ideas, I can fit in a camping 'pitch' and setup /tear down quickly. Ok, I won't mention the standard solutions, such as grounding it to your motor home, elevated ground systems, or giving up on the vertical (which needs a ground to act as a counterpoise) and installing a horizontal dipole, which doesn't need the ground. For out of the box ideas, I suggest you try 1. Attach a ground wire to a tennis ball. Flush the ball down the toilet and into the sewer hookup. Eventually, it will hit the campground septic tank, which will make an excellent ground. 2. Find a roll of welded wire fencing. Notice that I said welded, not galvanized or twisted. Roll out the fence wire onto your campsite and park you mobile home on top of it. You now have a ground. 3. Dump some water on the ground around the campsite. As long as it's wet, it will conduct, and you have a ground. 4. Do your camping in a swamp or over quicksand. Just push a ground rod into the wet ground and you're done. Be sure to equip your mobile home with pontoons, or you may have that sinking feeling. 5. The problem with using the a mobile home as a ground is the insulating tires. What you need is a way to connect the aluminum camper to the ground directly. Most mobile homes have leveling jacks. Instead of the usual 4 jacks, install several dozen jacks, some of which have sharp points that push into the ground. That should take care of the insulating tires. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 09:15:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: 1. Attach a ground wire to a tennis ball. Flush the ball down the toilet and into the sewer hookup. Eventually, it will hit the campground septic tank, which will make an excellent ground. Ooops. That will only work for a concrete septic tank. If the tank is insulated fiberglass, there may be problems. Check with the trailer park as to which type of septic tank they have. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:08:58 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote: I'm looking for 'out of the box' ideas, I can fit in a camping 'pitch' and setup /tear down quickly. Ok, I won't mention the standard solutions, such as grounding it to your motor home, elevated ground systems, or giving up on the vertical (which needs a ground to act as a counterpoise) and installing a horizontal dipole, which doesn't need the ground. The reason I use a vertical is it avoids the need for supports, European pitches tend to be small and running a dipole over an adjoining pitch may be an issue. For out of the box ideas, I suggest you try 1. Attach a ground wire to a tennis ball. Flush the ball down the toilet and into the sewer hookup. Eventually, it will hit the campground septic tank, which will make an excellent ground. In Europe, the toilets are not on the pitch. 2. Find a roll of welded wire fencing. Notice that I said welded, not galvanized or twisted. Roll out the fence wire onto your campsite and park you mobile home on top of it. You now have a ground. That I like. 3. Dump some water on the ground around the campsite. As long as it's wet, it will conduct, and you have a ground. 4. Do your camping in a swamp or over quicksand. Just push a ground rod into the wet ground and you're done. Be sure to equip your mobile home with pontoons, or you may have that sinking feeling. Neither will make a huge difference to the RF gnd. properties compared to 'normal' dirt. You need to be in sea water for that and my XYL isn't keen on boats. 5. The problem with using the a mobile home as a ground is the insulating tires. What you need is a way to connect the aluminum camper to the ground directly. Most mobile homes have leveling jacks. Instead of the usual 4 jacks, install several dozen jacks, some of which have sharp points that push into the ground. That should take care of the insulating tires. The other issue is, with the antenna mounted near the real ground, you will have a huge lump of grounded metal in the near field. Far from a good idea. Thank you for the input. 73 Brian G8OSN/W8OSN www.g8osn.net |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message ... On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 09:15:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 1. Attach a ground wire to a tennis ball. Flush the ball down the toilet and into the sewer hookup. Eventually, it will hit the campground septic tank, which will make an excellent ground. Ooops. That will only work for a concrete septic tank. If the tank is insulated fiberglass, there may be problems. -- Check with the -- trailer park as to which type of septic tank they have. They might want to know why he's asking. That'll go as one of the problems. :-) |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On 15/02/2014 00:08, Sal wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message ... On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 09:15:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 1. Attach a ground wire to a tennis ball. Flush the ball down the toilet and into the sewer hookup. Eventually, it will hit the campground septic tank, which will make an excellent ground. Ooops. That will only work for a concrete septic tank. If the tank is insulated fiberglass, there may be problems. -- Check with the -- trailer park as to which type of septic tank they have. They might want to know why he's asking. That'll go as one of the problems. :-) Your campsites sound quite different to ours. In Europe, while not all sites are the same, relatively few pitches have the pipe work for toilet or even grey water or fresh water. On a good site, perhaps 10% will have grey and fresh water facilities at the pitch. The rest will probably have electricity. Toilets are in a block. There are facilities to empty 'black' tanks. A pitch will be, perhaps 7mx7m. People tend to be wary of strange things like antennas and trailing wires, which people (esp. children) may trip over are a particular issue. There are already electrical 'hook up' wires about. The last thing you want while on holiday is to have contributed to someone being injured. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
Put the tripod on top of the RV and connect the "ground" to the RV top. It
may be not much of a ground on the lower bands, but it should get a signal out on the higher bands. Bill W2WO "Brian Reay" wrote in message ... W5DXP wrote: On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. Why not use the vehicle for the counterpoise like mobile antennas do? -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com Sorry, I should have said, the antenna is not mounted on the vehicle. I use a small tripod. Running one coax shortish coax with a power lead taped to it is fine but a long , or several long, counter poises are what concern me. 73, Brian |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Fred Roberts" wrote in message
... On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:02:40 -0000, "gareth" wrote: It really is not rocket science. Especially for a seasoned LW tamer. LW? Que? |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Fred Roberts" wrote in message ... On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 23:12:46 -0000, "gareth" wrote: Especially for a seasoned LW tamer. LW? Que? Long wire. Gawd he's been banging on about it for weeks now, shirley you noticed - tales of daring do with a homemade auto ATU interspaced with yarns about a sporting injury? Did someone mention Walter Mitty? Of course. For some reason I had taken that to be a reference to a Lyin' Tamer |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote:
Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. What band or bands are you trying to work? |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 10:46:31 -0500, Bill Ogden wrote:
Put the tripod on top of the RV and connect the "ground" to the RV top. It may be not much of a ground on the lower bands, but it should get a signal out on the higher bands. For holiday operating I have a set of quarter wave conterpoises taped together which I load a vertical against (fibre glass fishing pole with wire attached). It would be trivial to layout the counterpoise under a campervan. Charlie. -- M0WYM Sales @ radiowymsey http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Sales-At-Radio-Wymsey/ http://sales-at-radio-wymsey.ebid.net/ |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
wrote:
On Friday, February 14, 2014 4:08:58 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: Does anyone have any novel ideas for RF grounds to use with an RV/Mobilehome. What band or bands are you trying to work? 80m to 10m on this antenna, inc. 60m I have antennas on the vehicle for VHF/UHF -- 73 Brian G8OSN/W8OSN www.g8osn.net |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
Wymsey wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 10:46:31 -0500, Bill Ogden wrote: Put the tripod on top of the RV and connect the "ground" to the RV top. It may be not much of a ground on the lower bands, but it should get a signal out on the higher bands. For holiday operating I have a set of quarter wave conterpoises taped together which I load a vertical against (fibre glass fishing pole with wire attached). It would be trivial to layout the counterpoise under a campervan. That is pretty well what I do now. I am looking for other, hopefully better, ideas. Have you not seen my posts on uk.radio.amateur re using a single counter poise? Much quicker to deploy and less of a trip hazard. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 4:36:32 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote:
What band or bands are you trying to work? 80m to 10m on this antenna, inc. 60m I have antennas on the vehicle for VHF/UHF -- 73 Brian G8OSN/W8OSN www.g8osn.net That makes it harder trying to do all bands. It's often easier to pick only the bands one uses the most, and compromise on the others. In your case, I'd prefer string dipoles up between trees, but it seems you lack the room for that. My next choice would be mounting a mobile antenna on top of the RV. You don't have to drive with it on, but if you had an antenna mount on the roof to use, it would sure make it easier to mount an antenna. You wouldn't have to worry about a counterpoise, etc.. The RV would be it, assuming it has a metal skin. But I'd prefer using a normal coil loaded mobile antenna than the auto tuned whip. I think the larger loading coil would be more efficient, and better current distribution if center loaded. But I suppose you could improve the current distribution of your 7m whip by adding some type of top hat, or top hat wires or spokes. The only drawback to a mobile antenna like say a bug catcher is you have to be able to adjust the coil tap to change bands. It may well be too high to reach on top of an RV. So you'd probably have to yank it off the roof to change bands. I have this on my mobile antennas, but I use a Hustler quick disconnect, which makes it fast and easy. I suppose a screwdriver antenna would be an easy route to changing bands, but they are heavy and fairly expensive for anything decent. Myself, I camp a lot, and my usual setup 98% of the time are 40 and 80 dipoles strung up in, or between trees. Sometimes I run the two dipoles with one coax feed, sometimes I make a single dipole, and use insulators with wire jumpers to shorten a 80m dipole to 40m. Just depends what I have laying around and how many trees are involved. I don't worry about any of the higher bands. I can still use them to a degree by using a tuner on the dipoles. Or tack on an extra dipole if really needed. A 40 dipole works 15m as is pretty well. But I talk on 80 and 40 most of the time. 40 in the day, 80 at night. And 160 if I have enough wire in the air. :) |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
wrote:
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 4:36:32 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote: What band or bands are you trying to work? 80m to 10m on this antenna, inc. 60m I have antennas on the vehicle for VHF/UHF That makes it harder trying to do all bands. It's often easier to pick only the bands one uses the most, and compromise on the others. snipped for brevity Thank you for your considered response, none of which I disagree with. However, I am trying to avoid the need for trees etc. and having wires crossing other peoples' pitches. We tend to have fewer trees on European campsites. The vertical is something I have experimented with prior to buying the RV during club mini-field week sessions and had good results with. I previously I ran out a number of radials but this are too much of a trip hazard on a campsite. I can reduce it to one, about 5% longer than the vertical but I was looking for something 'out of the box'. The antenna is on a tripod. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 7:55:35 AM UTC-6, Brian Reay wrote:
The vertical is something I have experimented with prior to buying the RV during club mini-field week sessions and had good results with. I previously I ran out a number of radials but this are too much of a trip hazard on a campsite. I can reduce it to one, about 5% longer than the vertical but I was looking for something 'out of the box'. The antenna is on a tripod. If you have to use the tripod, I would probably try to keep the metal under the tripod as dense as possible, as that is where a lot of ground loss is. A lot of short radials are better than a few long ones for the same amount of wire. Some type of screen or mesh that you could lay down might help a bit. I found on mobile whips, the metal under the antenna is really critical. I once ran a length of angle iron across the back of my truck bed behind the rear cab window. It was well grounded, and even had strap that ran from the bed sides to the base of the antenna to make double sure it was well grounded. It was horrible. :( I finally came to the conclusion there just wasn't enough metal under the whip, and just being well grounded by a strap was not enough. I moved the antenna over on to the top of the side tool boxes, which are part of the truck, and gave more metal under the whip, and the antenna came alive in it's normal fashion. It was this experience which leads me to believe that trying some kind of bumper hitch mount is basically a waste of time. It may work, but nothing like it normally does on good metal. I have another truck, and it's mount is on the side of the cab with a big GE ball mount. It's the best of the two. That antenna really cooks on that truck. |
Quote:
Here is an idea to try... an off-center-feed L-dipole. It works this way: calculate the resonant length for the frequency of interest plus 3%; make your vertical arm 2/3 long. Make a second arm 1/3 long and mount it 15 to 30 degrees above horizontal Connect inner coax to the long vertical arm. Connect braid to the shorter arm then adjust its length and angle to lowest SWR. A telescoping antenna is useful at this point. You will find that there is one point where the impedance is exactly 50 ohms. This antenna is directional. There will be gain towards the side arm direction and stronger gain horizontally from the side arm. Signals on the back side will be weak. Take some care which way you set up. Get the arms as high off the ground as possible to get lower angle of radiation and less power adsorbed by the ground and the hot side arm out of reach when transmitting. Dick, KK4OBI |
Quote:
An educated person wouldn't need tuners or multiple dipole antenna's to operate. If you understood antenna's as well as you think you understand antenna's, you would realize that there are antenna's out there that does a little bit of everything - very well thank you - and that antenna tuners do not make your antenna resonant - just makes the transmitter happy. There is a antenna out there that I know of that will work everything from 70 CM to 80 meters - with the exception of 15 and 30 meters - without a antenna tuner - it is called an off-center fed dipole... Please - before you attack my post - look at this web site.... HY Power Antenna's - http://www.hypowerantenna.com/produc...er-fed-antenna Before anyone talks any crap - please let me explain.......... I know the man that designed this antenna... He holds 27 US Patents. K3CC I used this antenna a couple of years ago for Field Days and I made hundreds of contacts - 100 contacts an hour on phone - with no amplifier and with the antenna just 30' off the ground. While others were sitting on their hands doing nothing, I was busy in a pile up on 20 / 40 / 80 meters phone... Yes the Kenwood TS 590 also had a lot to do with this, but the kicker was that there was an idiot there that was free-banding - hopping from one band to the next working digital that was causing a lot of interference to the other participants. I chose to just tune the bugger out. Others with lesser equipment were forced to wait until he was done before they attempted to work their bands while I just kept going. There is a real neat video included with the web site that shows the operator using this antenna as low as 6' off the ground.... A man has got to do what a man has got to do! |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
"Channel Jumper" wrote in message
... gareth;815654 Wrote: [b]Then run a "shortish" earth braid from the vehicle's chassis to the antenna.[b] You are confusing earth ground with a counter poise.. No, I'm not. To establish a counter-poise, the counter-poise needs to be directly beneath the antenna. No, it does not. You are providing the second half of a pendulum Just hooking some braid to the antenna won't do anything. Yes it will, taken together with the mass of the vehicle, as I suggested. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Monday, March 3, 2014 2:28:21 AM UTC-6, gareth wrote:
Just hooking some braid to the antenna won't do anything. Yes it will, taken together with the mass of the vehicle, as I suggested. It's possible that connecting to the RV may improve performance due to the antenna becoming a perverted dipole of sorts. But as a means of lowering ground losses under a vertical, your solution will prove to be quite poor. But that it would actually act like a dipole seems fairly remote to me. And there is something that seems to confuse people about short verticals used on vehicles and such. And I think could also be applied to short verticals on tripods. I've fairly much proven to myself that varying the length of the metal on the ground side of the vertical usually does not convert it to a different length dipole. Per say.. If this were the case, I would have to modify and re-tune my mobile whips every time I changed to a different size vehicle, or added other metal to the vehicle. If the antenna acted as a dipole, I would expect to need to re-tune in every change of vehicle or mount. This does not happen. These short verticals are still acting like verticals on the ground, with varying numbers of radials, or metal mass, not perverted dipoles slightly above the ground. My mobile antennas are still resonant at the same frequency no matter what vehicle they are on, big or small, and no change if I add extra radial wires to the vehicle, or even connect directly to the ocean, which I have done in the real world when parked next to the Gulf of Mexico. What does this tell me? That the metal under a mobile whip is acting a lot more like a radial system, or even the ground itself, than the other half of a physical dipole. So what else does that tell me? That connecting a braid from a tripod mounted short vertical to an RV is likely to not pan out too well as far as reducing ground loss under the vertical. In fact, I predict it to be fairly useless. :( |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Monday, March 3, 2014 10:51:14 AM UTC-6, wrote:
That the metal under a mobile whip is acting a lot more like a radial system, or even the ground itself, than the other half of a physical dipole. It depends on where it is connected to the vehicle. If connected near the center, the vehicle acts like two opposing radials and radiates mostly omnidirectional. If connected on the rear bumper, it can act like one radial. On my S10 with a rear bumper-mounted 17m hamstick, my signal was quite directional beaming toward the front of the vehicle. I would sit in the parking lot at Intel and aim my S10 mobile antenna system. I often gained an S-unit by aligning the vehicle with my contact. The fact that the S10 was a quarter wavelength long on 17m probably helped. -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Monday, March 3, 2014 12:52:37 PM UTC-6, W5DXP wrote:
On Monday, March 3, 2014 10:51:14 AM UTC-6, wrote: That the metal under a mobile whip is acting a lot more like a radial system, or even the ground itself, than the other half of a physical dipole. It depends on where it is connected to the vehicle. If connected near the center, the vehicle acts like two opposing radials and radiates mostly omnidirectional. If connected on the rear bumper, it can act like one radial. On my S10 with a rear bumper-mounted 17m hamstick, my signal was quite directional beaming toward the front of the vehicle. I would sit in the parking lot at Intel and aim my S10 mobile antenna system. I often gained an S-unit by aligning the vehicle with my contact. The fact that the S10 was a quarter wavelength long on 17m probably helped. -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com I bet it still acted like a vertical near the ground though, instead of a dipole low to the ground. For instance, I bet the hamstick did not require a drastic re-tuning when mounted near the rear vs mounted in the center. So I still think in your case, it was acting more like a near ground mount vertical with a fat radial to the front, rather than a whip at the rear with the car being the other half of a dipole. And strictly speaking, I suppose it is. Sorta.. Kinda.. But it's not acting like one in operation. It's acting like any other short vertical that is near the ground. I saw a bit of directivity when I had the antenna on the rear trunk lid of a Monte Carlo in much the same way as your S10. It favored the forward direction a tad. I don't notice too much directivity on the trucks, but both have the antenna near the center. Anyway, as it applies to the tripod vertical, I wouldn't expect running a braid to an RV as a very effective way to reduce ground losses below the antenna. And the chances of it pairing up with the RV to produce a usable "dipole" of sorts are not likely to pan out. Ground losses will still be high below the whip, and I bet the RV will more likely resemble a big pile of earth a few feet away, than a viable radiating element. :/ Unfortunately, the big pile of pseudo earth will be in the wrong location to be of much help to the tripod mounted whip. |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Tuesday, March 4, 2014 5:22:18 AM UTC-6, Jeff wrote:
Also do not neglect the (considerable) capacitance of the vehicle body ground to the the real ground. I was on the top uncovered story of a three-story parking garage made of concrete and steel and the weather was dry. -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com |
RV/Mobilehome RF gnd systems.
On Tuesday, March 4, 2014 10:19:49 AM UTC-6, W5DXP wrote:
On Tuesday, March 4, 2014 5:22:18 AM UTC-6, Jeff wrote: Also do not neglect the (considerable) capacitance of the vehicle body ground to the the real ground. I was on the top uncovered story of a three-story parking garage made of concrete and steel and the weather was dry. -- 73, Cecil, w5dxp.com Makes sense to me. You had a 4 ft wide solid metal appx 1/4 wave radial system in the forward direction. So what was below the truck shouldn't have really mattered much. Or at least in that direction. Which is the whole point of having a dense "radial" system below a low vertical. :) And even more critical with a low short vertical. His is a 7m fishing pole fed with a auto tuner. Would be short on 40 and 80. I bet adding a few top loading wires would help on those bands, but that's probably out of the question if he can't string up dipoles and such. Maybe make some "L" spokes to clamp on the top with a hose clamp. A wire connecting the outer ends of the spokes would be even better. Would improve the current distribution. Or could add a center loading coil for 40 and 80. That would help if no top loading. |
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