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Coax entry into house
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? -- Tekkie |
Coax entry into house
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled.
I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? What I did, for my ingress points, was to mount a standard square metal "outlet box" on both the inside and outside of the wall. These boxes have punch-out openings in the back which are of a good size to accept a standard piece of male-threaded iron pipe (a "pipe nipple") that's long enough to go through the wall. The pipe nipple isn't large enough in diamater to allow a coax fitting to slide through it, but is large enough to take the coax itself... this means that you're likely to have to install the N or PL-259 connector after feeding the coax through. I actually fed four coaxes into the house, through a pair of pipe nipples located in the diagonally-opposite positions in the box. I then "punched out" four of the side positions in the box mounted on the outside wall, and mounted female N connectors in the holes. Each N connector is wired to a length of RG-8X, which is fed through one of the pipe nipples, out through a punch-out in the bottom of the box on the inside of the wall, and up to the back of the desk where my rigs are located. The outside box is connected to a ground rod, which is also hooked to a heavy wire that bonds it to the main building ground system. I've got some N-connector Polyphaser surge suppressors connected to the female N connectors on the outside box, and the coaxes to the antennas connect to these. As to how long a tail you want: you can either bring in a tail that's long enough to reach your operating position without tripping anybody, or you can install a short tail and (e.g.) female connector, to which you then connect a suitable jumper cable to your rig. You don't even really need a coax tail - you could install a box or panel inside which has several female connectors on it. This would probably be the neatest sort of indoor installation, as you can detach all of the coaxes from it if you wish in order to clean or to rearrange the room or etc. Other options are available. MFJ makes ingress panels, with connectors and/or sliding gaskets for a coax to fit through. They make them for in-window mounting, and for replacing a soffit vent in an under-the-eaves mounting position. If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or, cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it. |
Coax entry into house
On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:30:58 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote: Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? Anything works if you live in a moderate climate. Temperatures below freezing point can make problems. We often have to replace cables which are warm inside and freezing outside due to water condensate. The air inside can diffuse through the cable and cables must prevent air circulation inside by foam filling and airtight sealed N connectors. Avoid the use of PL239 by all means, the shielded banana plug belongs into the thrash bin. "UHF connector" really means: Unsuited for High Frequencies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UHF_connector w. |
Coax entry into house
Ralph Mowery posted for all of us...
In article , says... Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? You may want to try something like this from MFJ. It is a board with a few coax feed through connectors that fits into the bottom of a window. YOu raise the window about 4 inches and place the board with the connectors in it. It sells for about $ 60. YOu could make your own by getting a board and a long feed through coax barrel fitting, especially if you only need one or two coax connections. If you move or go to another room, just pull the board out and there will not be any hole to repair. Look for a MFJ 4601 This link has a video showing how it works. http://www.gigaparts.com/Product-Lin...MFJ-4601.html? gclid=CjwKEAjw- Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1fKzxhfswaQQhmxRiMMfAkFO ZSikn059- 1pshYzBSIhoCo57w_wcB Thanks for the reply; not to be critical but I don't know how to seal the gap where the the lower and upper sashs' are offset. -- Tekkie |
Coax entry into house
Helmut Wabnig posted for all of us...
On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:30:58 -0400, Tekkie® wrote: Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? Anything works if you live in a moderate climate. Temperatures below freezing point can make problems. We often have to replace cables which are warm inside and freezing outside due to water condensate. The air inside can diffuse through the cable and cables must prevent air circulation inside by foam filling and airtight sealed N connectors. Avoid the use of PL239 by all means, the shielded banana plug belongs into the thrash bin. "UHF connector" really means: Unsuited for High Frequencies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UHF_connector w. Thanks for the info. A consideration. -- Tekkie |
Coax entry into house
Dave Platt posted for all of us...
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? What I did, for my ingress points, was to mount a standard square metal "outlet box" on both the inside and outside of the wall. These boxes have punch-out openings in the back which are of a good size to accept a standard piece of male-threaded iron pipe (a "pipe nipple") that's long enough to go through the wall. The pipe nipple isn't large enough in diamater to allow a coax fitting to slide through it, but is large enough to take the coax itself... this means that you're likely to have to install the N or PL-259 connector after feeding the coax through. I actually fed four coaxes into the house, through a pair of pipe nipples located in the diagonally-opposite positions in the box. I then "punched out" four of the side positions in the box mounted on the outside wall, and mounted female N connectors in the holes. Each N connector is wired to a length of RG-8X, which is fed through one of the pipe nipples, out through a punch-out in the bottom of the box on the inside of the wall, and up to the back of the desk where my rigs are located. The outside box is connected to a ground rod, which is also hooked to a heavy wire that bonds it to the main building ground system. I've got some N-connector Polyphaser surge suppressors connected to the female N connectors on the outside box, and the coaxes to the antennas connect to these. As to how long a tail you want: you can either bring in a tail that's long enough to reach your operating position without tripping anybody, or you can install a short tail and (e.g.) female connector, to which you then connect a suitable jumper cable to your rig. You don't even really need a coax tail - you could install a box or panel inside which has several female connectors on it. This would probably be the neatest sort of indoor installation, as you can detach all of the coaxes from it if you wish in order to clean or to rearrange the room or etc. Other options are available. MFJ makes ingress panels, with connectors and/or sliding gaskets for a coax to fit through. They make them for in-window mounting, and for replacing a soffit vent in an under-the-eaves mounting position. If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or, cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it. Thank you for the reply. I don't know if I have the resources to do a first class job like this. -- Tekkie |
Coax entry into house
In article , says...
Ralph Mowery posted for all of us... Look for a MFJ 4601 This link has a video showing how it works. http://www.gigaparts.com/Product-Lin...MFJ-4601.html? gclid=CjwKEAjw- Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1fKzxhfswaQQhmxRiMMfAkFO ZSikn059- 1pshYzBSIhoCo57w_wcB Thanks for the reply; not to be critical but I don't know how to seal the gap where the the lower and upper sashs' are offset. One thing you coluld try would be to get some of the foam rubber type stuff that is made to insulate the water pipes. Stuff it in the crack and cut to the length you need. |
Coax entry into house
Tekkie® wrote:
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? You can buy 8 inch long PL-259 barrel connectors on the Internet. Drill a 5/8 hole through the wall. Put a hardware store 5/8 fender washer on both sides and caulking under the outside washer. Seal up the outside cable connector. Very slight loss at 2M, but negligable below that. This assumes you have 6 inch walls, if not they are available up to 12 inches long. http://www.americanradiosupply.com/s...lkhead&x=0&y=0 -- Jim Pennino |
Coax entry into house
On 10/11/2016 3:11 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... Ralph Mowery posted for all of us... Look for a MFJ 4601 This link has a video showing how it works. http://www.gigaparts.com/Product-Lin...MFJ-4601.html? gclid=CjwKEAjw- Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1fKzxhfswaQQhmxRiMMfAkFO ZSikn059- 1pshYzBSIhoCo57w_wcB Thanks for the reply; not to be critical but I don't know how to seal the gap where the the lower and upper sashs' are offset. One thing you coluld try would be to get some of the foam rubber type stuff that is made to insulate the water pipes. Stuff it in the crack and cut to the length you need. That's how they do it to seal for window air conditioner units. -- Rick C |
Coax entry into house
On 10/10/2016 08:30 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? ======== If a hole in the outer wall is required ,please ensure that that hole is drilled in such a way that the conduit pipe is sloping down from inside to outside to prevent water ingress. Frank , GM0CSZ in IO87AT |
Coax entry into house
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016, highlandham wrote:
On 10/10/2016 08:30 PM, Tekkie® wrote: Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? ======== If a hole in the outer wall is required ,please ensure that that hole is drilled in such a way that the conduit pipe is sloping down from inside to outside to prevent water ingress. That's a good point, the sort of thing that should be obvious, but probably gets forgotten. I was certainly thinking about keeping the cold out. One year I had some really thick coax, was it RG-17?, coming through a window, didn't want to leave anything permanent. So all that cold winter the sliding part of the outer window was partially open, to let the coax through there, and let the end sit between the two windows. And then when I wanted to use the antenna, I'd open the inner window and uncoil the bit of coax there, and connect a piece that went to the rig. I can't believe I did that, it didn't make things very warm. Michael |
Coax entry into house
On 10/13/2016 03:08 PM, Michael Black wrote:
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016, highlandham wrote: On 10/10/2016 08:30 PM, Tekkie® wrote: Hi all, I want to run a coax into to my house bedroom because I'm disabled. I recall reading having a short piece of electrical pipe placed through the wall and sealed after the coax is run. Any other ideas? How much of a tail should brought into the room? ======== If a hole in the outer wall is required ,please ensure that that hole is drilled in such a way that the conduit pipe is sloping down from inside to outside to prevent water ingress. That's a good point, the sort of thing that should be obvious, but probably gets forgotten. I was certainly thinking about keeping the cold out. One year I had some really thick coax, was it RG-17?, coming through a window, didn't want to leave anything permanent. So all that cold winter the sliding part of the outer window was partially open, to let the coax through there, and let the end sit between the two windows. And then when I wanted to use the antenna, I'd open the inner window and uncoil the bit of coax there, and connect a piece that went to the rig. I can't believe I did that, it didn't make things very warm. The old ARRL Handbooks and Antenna Manuals, for no-modification installs involving double hung windows, tended to recommend a strip of wood, say 1.5" x 3" x L, where L is the internal dimension, left to right, of the window frame, or even of the sliding lower section itself, that could be drilled for passing your antenna cable(s), or maybe just your connector bodies, and designed to support the lower section of the window is it is dropped down onto it. This piece would typically be a parallelogram in cross section since the sill generally slopes downward to the outside for drainage purposes. George |
Coax entry into house
On 10/10/2016 02:46 PM, Dave Platt wrote:
If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or, cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it. Google "plenum wire" to find what kind of cable is required when using plenums for any kind of electrical wiring (similar issues may apply to other plastic materials as well). Normal insulation can generate toxic fumes in the presence of heat from a fire, capable of killing or incapacitating the occupants even before the fire itself threatens them. George |
Coax entry into house
George Cornelius wrote:
On 10/10/2016 02:46 PM, Dave Platt wrote: If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or, cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it. Google "plenum wire" to find what kind of cable is required when using plenums for any kind of electrical wiring (similar issues may apply to other plastic materials as well). Normal insulation can generate toxic fumes in the presence of heat from a fire, capable of killing or incapacitating the occupants even before the fire itself threatens them. That doesn't apply when you run one or two coaxes through your own home. There are more than enough things in your house that generate toxic fumes when burnt to make those few metres of coax insignificant in comparison. |
Coax entry into house
On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 4:47:08 AM UTC-4, Rob wrote:
George Cornelius wrote: On 10/10/2016 02:46 PM, Dave Platt wrote: If you have an under-the-floor crawl space, you could probably bring the coaxes in under the building through a vent (make sure to seal around the opening to keep critters out), drill up/down through the floor in a convenient corner, and snake your coaxes up that way. Or, cut out an opening and flush-mount a box with RF connectors in it. Google "plenum wire" to find what kind of cable is required when using plenums for any kind of electrical wiring (similar issues may apply to other plastic materials as well). Normal insulation can generate toxic fumes in the presence of heat from a fire, capable of killing or incapacitating the occupants even before the fire itself threatens them. That doesn't apply when you run one or two coaxes through your own home. There are more than enough things in your house that generate toxic fumes when burnt to make those few metres of coax insignificant in comparison. It certainly does apply if the coax is actually run through a plenum space. Some homes use joist channels as return air plenums and any cable that passes through such a space must be plenum rated or otherwise protected. That said no one has said that is what is happening in this case. Tom W3TDH |
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