![]() |
Does a j pole need grounding and/or a balun?
I have been reading alot on different designs and have read
contradictory information on this. Does nayone here have an opinion? Also, when building a j-pole, could I run the wire inside the tube. (Regular jacketed copper wire) to the bottom of the tube to a pl connector? Or would this mess up the impedance? |
Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE wrote: wrote: I have been reading alot on different designs and have read contradictory information on this. Does nayone here have an opinion? As I understand it, a J-pole is derived from nothing but an inverted Zeppelin-antenna. That makes the feedpoint a balanced one and you need a balun or at least a choke. But as a Zepp-antenna it does not need any ground just like ordinary dipoles don't. But if you ground a J-pole the ground needs to be exactly in the middle of the short in the feed line. For practical reasons most J-poles are not constructed this way. Also, when building a j-pole, could I run the wire inside the tube. (Regular jacketed copper wire) to the bottom of the tube to a pl connector? Or would this mess up the impedance? What you are looking for is on YO5OFH, Csaba Gajdos web page he http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/projects/a...ol_antenna.htm but I didn't try the design myself yet. I might within short. There is ample of information on J-poles he http://www.cebik.com/jp1.html Kind regards, Eike So, does a j pole need to be insulated from the antenna mast? |
What about a dual band version?
|
A J-Pole is a 1/2 wave vertical antenna, that sits on TOP of a U
shaped 1/4 wave matching section. During construction, the 1/2 wave vertical element AND ONE of the 1/4 wave legs of the Transformer are constructed of the same piece of tubing. Thus the J appearance and name. RF is invisible to whatever lies below the Horizontal Member, so whether the mast is grounded or not would have no impact on the J-Poles performance. However, the shield MUST be grounded for obvious reasons. It is Normal and Proper to RUN the COAX up the center of the mast, INSIDE the Antenna and EXIT the vertical element at the Horizontal Member. If you don't, THEN you will need to stop stray RF that runs along the coax and/or use a Balun. When you connect your COAX to the J-Pole: If it is a MonoBand J-Pole, run the center conductor to the STUB, leaving the sheild jacket intact up to within about 1/2 inch of the stub. Then run a wire from the shield horizontal to the horizontal member and affix this to the vertical. If it is a Multi-Band J-Pole, the center conductor should be connected to the Vertical Element and a wire from the shield runs horizontal over to the stub. Although a J-Pole will work with the coax connected either way. On MonoBand J-Poles, having the center conductor going to the Stub reduces the noise level slightly. It can make a difference when you are trying to pull in QRP stations. Using 3 or 4 1/8th wave wires, like a capacity hat, protruding outward on the top of the vertical element will give the same noise reducing effect. TTUL Gary verbositized: I have been reading alot on different designs and have read contradictory information on this. Does nayone here have an opinion? Also, when building a j-pole, could I run the wire inside the tube. (Regular jacketed copper wire) to the bottom of the tube to a pl connector? Or would this mess up the impedance? |
|
Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr. wrote: A J-Pole is a 1/2 wave vertical antenna, that sits on TOP of a U shaped 1/4 wave matching section. During construction, the 1/2 wave vertical element AND ONE of the 1/4 wave legs of the Transformer are constructed of the same piece of tubing. Thus the J appearance and name. RF is invisible to whatever lies below the Horizontal Member, so whether the mast is grounded or not would have no impact on the J-Poles performance. However, the shield MUST be grounded for obvious reasons. It is Normal and Proper to RUN the COAX up the center of the mast, INSIDE the Antenna and EXIT the vertical element at the Horizontal Member. If you don't, THEN you will need to stop stray RF that runs along the coax and/or use a Balun. When you connect your COAX to the J-Pole: If it is a MonoBand J-Pole, run the center conductor to the STUB, leaving the sheild jacket intact up to within about 1/2 inch of the stub. Then run a wire from the shield horizontal to the horizontal member and affix this to the vertical. If it is a Multi-Band J-Pole, the center conductor should be connected to the Vertical Element and a wire from the shield runs horizontal over to the stub. Although a J-Pole will work with the coax connected either way. On MonoBand J-Poles, having the center conductor going to the Stub reduces the noise level slightly. It can make a difference when you are trying to pull in QRP stations. Using 3 or 4 1/8th wave wires, like a capacity hat, protruding outward on the top of the vertical element will give the same noise reducing effect. TTUL Gary So, if coax is kept inside the tubing, there is no stray rf and therefore a choke or balun is not needed? Are you saying the shield must be grounded to a surge supressor to prevent lightening stikes? My ideas was to run the wire inside and even make the coaxle connections inside the tubing with wire terminals and screws, so as to keep everything neat and weath proof. What if you used a non insulated pvc type pipe to connect the stub and verticle element? verbositized: I have been reading alot on different designs and have read contradictory information on this. Does nayone here have an opinion? Also, when building a j-pole, could I run the wire inside the tube. (Regular jacketed copper wire) to the bottom of the tube to a pl connector? Or would this mess up the impedance? |
|
wrote So, if coax is kept inside the tubing, there is no stray rf and therefore a choke or balun is not needed? Gary did a good job of answering your questions, but I am reinforcing what he said. By design, the J-Pole may allow feedline radiation: None, a little, or a lot, depending on the users unique configurations of feedline length, design frequency, and accuracy of matching-stub construction, etc. Therefore an isolating 1:1 Balun or coils of feedline (choke) at the feedpoint of the antenna are highly recommended. Routing the coax inside the variable lenth of the main antenna length to get to the shorting (matching) stub would have little or no effect on preventing feedline radiation, if your design was subject to it in the first place. Are you saying the shield must be grounded to a surge supressor to prevent lightening stikes? Not everyone is subject to lightning, and for some it is rare enough that they choose not to worry about it. But if lightning protection design is used, it requires shield-grounding. Coax shield (braid, solid, any kind) must be grounded, and at several points depending on the tower height, mast, length of feedline, etc. In order for lightning arrestors (more commonly called SPD or Surge Protection Device) to work properly, the coax shield must be well grounded *before* it is connected to the arrestor/surge device. That's another whole subject and we have explained your J-pole doesn't "need" grounding several times. A copper J-Pole however, is about as attractive a point for lightning attachment as you could offer. It is also subject to the same levels of static electricity that any airborne antenna picks up. Act according to your individual desire for survival there. My ideas was to run the wire inside and even make the coaxle connections inside the tubing with wire terminals and screws, so as to keep everything neat and weath proof. That would be a really neat and pretty wx-proof design, but a lot of work. There might be an easier way to wx-proof it, mentioned later. What if you used a non insulated pvc type pipe to connect the stub and verticle element? The cross-connector is a shorting, matching "bar", as Gary warned you against using the word "stub" if that was going to confuse anyone because it is not a waveguide or filter or anything else the word stub is normally used to describe. Therefore it could never be made of an insulating dialectric such as PVC. You could however hot-dip coat the whole antenna in plastic or rubber if you wanted to really wx-proof it, and this would eliminate the difficult inside-assembly of coax in the tubing that your proposed. One final note: the J-Pole is no miracle antenna. It's has zero gain when compared to any vertical antenna, and its entire attraction is it "fairly" easy construction, and very inexpensive construction materials. To get as *reliable* a vertical antenna for marine use that I required, might have cost well over $100. At or above that level the vertical antennas of 5/8 wavelength can normally provide gain of 6-10 dbi, and I do not want to get into what that is compared to as it has been hashed over a million times. I would leave it at "there will be considerable gain possible in vertical designs over the J-Pole". You have to be willing to pay for that. Most users are happy with J-Pole performance so it's record stands pretty well on its own. 73, Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia |
Jack Painter wrote: wrote So, if coax is kept inside the tubing, there is no stray rf and therefore a choke or balun is not needed? Gary did a good job of answering your questions, but I am reinforcing what he said. By design, the J-Pole may allow feedline radiation: None, a little, or a lot, depending on the users unique configurations of feedline length, design frequency, and accuracy of matching-stub construction, etc. Therefore an isolating 1:1 Balun or coils of feedline (choke) at the feedpoint of the antenna are highly recommended. Routing the coax inside the variable lenth of the main antenna length to get to the shorting (matching) stub would have little or no effect on preventing feedline radiation, if your design was subject to it in the first place. Are you saying the shield must be grounded to a surge supressor to prevent lightening stikes? Not everyone is subject to lightning, and for some it is rare enough that they choose not to worry about it. But if lightning protection design is used, it requires shield-grounding. Coax shield (braid, solid, any kind) must be grounded, and at several points depending on the tower height, mast, length of feedline, etc. In order for lightning arrestors (more commonly called SPD or Surge Protection Device) to work properly, the coax shield must be well grounded *before* it is connected to the arrestor/surge device. That's another whole subject and we have explained your J-pole doesn't "need" grounding several times. A copper J-Pole however, is about as attractive a point for lightning attachment as you could offer. It is also subject to the same levels of static electricity that any airborne antenna picks up. Act according to your individual desire for survival there. My ideas was to run the wire inside and even make the coaxle connections inside the tubing with wire terminals and screws, so as to keep everything neat and weath proof. That would be a really neat and pretty wx-proof design, but a lot of work. There might be an easier way to wx-proof it, mentioned later. What if you used a non insulated pvc type pipe to connect the stub and verticle element? The cross-connector is a shorting, matching "bar", as Gary warned you against using the word "stub" if that was going to confuse anyone because it is not a waveguide or filter or anything else the word stub is normally used to describe. Therefore it could never be made of an insulating dialectric such as PVC. You could however hot-dip coat the whole antenna in plastic or rubber if you wanted to really wx-proof it, and this would eliminate the difficult inside-assembly of coax in the tubing that your proposed. One final note: the J-Pole is no miracle antenna. It's has zero gain when compared to any vertical antenna, and its entire attraction is it "fairly" easy construction, and very inexpensive construction materials. To get as *reliable* a vertical antenna for marine use that I required, might have cost well over $100. At or above that level the vertical antennas of 5/8 wavelength can normally provide gain of 6-10 dbi, and I do not want to get into what that is compared to as it has been hashed over a million times. I would leave it at "there will be considerable gain possible in vertical designs over the J-Pole". You have to be willing to pay for that. Most users are happy with J-Pole performance so it's record stands pretty well on its own. 73, Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia What type of verticle are you talking about, like a ground plane? Would a ground plane be a better antenna for 2meters? |
|
wrote Jack Painter wrote: wrote One final note: the J-Pole is no miracle antenna. It's has zero gain when compared to any vertical antenna, and its entire attraction is it "fairly" easy construction, and very inexpensive construction materials. To get as *reliable* a vertical antenna for marine use that I required, might have cost well over $100. At or above that level the vertical antennas of 5/8 wavelength can normally provide gain of 6-10 dbi, and I do not want to get into what that is compared to as it has been hashed over a million times. I would leave it at "there will be considerable gain possible in vertical designs over the J-Pole". You have to be willing to pay for that. Most users are happy with J-Pole performance so it's record stands pretty well on its own. 73, Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia What type of verticle are you talking about, like a ground plane? Would a ground plane be a better antenna for 2meters? Yes/Yes, and there are a number of verticals with referenced gain far in excess of the more or less unity-gain J-Pole. The specific ones I mentioned are Marine. Like a vertical-dipole the J-Pole is a "complete" antenna and requires no radials, I doubt that it could even benefit from them. And the gain is referring to transmit, not receive, as all verticals are pretty equal in reception (and it's not always pretty ;-) What is your target for 2 meters? General area coverage or specific directional? Need to null out signals or interference from specific directions? Look at aYagi. J-Poles are not for anything special, just good general coverage at about $10 in parts. At that job they have become very popular antennas! 73, Jack Painter Virginia Beach, Virginia |
verbositized:
What type of verticle are you talking about, like a ground plane? Would a ground plane be a better antenna for 2meters? Check out my Stacked-J for 2 meters. It is a J-Pole on top of a J-Pole. I don't know the difference in gain, but in comparison to a regular J-Pole on the same mast, the Stacked-J outperformed it hands down. From St. Louis County, MO I could reach both UMR (Rolla) and UofC (Columbia) repeaters on the Stacked-J at 30 watts, a little noisy on their end, but I was clear. On a single J-Pole I could not bring up their repeaters even at 50 watts. The Stacked-J can be found at http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar It's under Antenna's. TTUL Gary |
|
Dan Richardson wrote: On 8 Jan 2005 18:16:02 -0800, wrote: What type of verticle are you talking about, like a ground plane? Would a ground plane be a better antenna for 2meters? A =BC-wave groundplane, a =BD-wave dipole, a J-Pole or 5/8-wave ground plane in most typical installations according to NEC analysis will not vary more than a dB at best. Remember a receiving station can hardly detect a dB difference. Danny, K6MHE So, about any omni is as good as another? Thanks for yoru info. Are there any other advantages to building one or another? |
Why does this guy say his j po;e have 3 db gain over a ground plane?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...30959 97&rd=1 |
|
wrote:
So, about any omni is as good as another? Nope, he didn't say that. Stacked phased vertical elements, as exist in repeater antennas, can offer a tremendous amount of gain over a 1/4WL ground plane. I have an old Comet 2x4MAX and the gain over a 1/4WL ground plane is amazing. The Diamond NR22L for 2m, is 97" long and is two elements of 5/8WL each and thus will have about 3 dB gain over a 1/4WL ground plane, about the same as an Extended Double Zepp. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
wrote:
Why does this guy say his j pole have 3 db gain over a ground plane? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...30959 97&rd=1 He might be making the J-Pole one-wavelength long which would indeed result in about 3 dB of gain but at a relatively useless take-off-angle. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...30959 97&rd=1
He might be making the J-Pole one-wavelength long which would indeed result in about 3 dB of gain but at a relatively useless take-off-angle. I suspect that he's comparing a standard half-wave-radiator J-pole to a typical "ground plane" antenna (a quarter-wave monopole, with one set of quarter-wave radials, possibly tilted downwards for an impedance match). The latter sort of antenna falls somewhat short of behaving like a true infinite-ground-plane antenna, as the radials are neither horizontal nor infinite in extent. If I recall correctly, the radiation pattern will be tilted upwards from the horizon by a significant amount. The J-pole will be close to 0 dBd, while the "ground plane" will probably fall a few dB short of that figure out at the horizon. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:54 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
RadioBanter.com