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best low-temp solder?
I've had good luck with the kester 62/36/2% silver stuff, which is
eutectic. Many many years ago, I had some luck with a indium-bismuth solder paste in syringes from Indium Corp. Haven't fiddled with any of their stuff since then. Radio Shack sells a bag of little peices of tape-form stuff. Never got it to work well. Favorites? |
wrote in message oups.com... I've had good luck with the kester 62/36/2% silver stuff, which is eutectic. Many many years ago, I had some luck with a indium-bismuth solder paste in syringes from Indium Corp. Haven't fiddled with any of their stuff since then. Radio Shack sells a bag of little peices of tape-form stuff. Never got it to work well. Favorites? plain old 60-40 rosin-core electrical solder has worked well for me - got mine at a hamfest on a half-pound roll. the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures - and higher temperatures are not good for electronics. eutectic (if my memory serves) just means it's either solid or liquid - and won't just 'soften' - like ice and water. hth Hal w4pmj |
In article ,
"Hal Rosser" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... I've had good luck with the kester 62/36/2% silver stuff, which is eutectic. Many many years ago, I had some luck with a indium-bismuth solder paste in syringes from Indium Corp. Haven't fiddled with any of their stuff since then. Radio Shack sells a bag of little peices of tape-form stuff. Never got it to work well. Favorites? plain old 60-40 rosin-core electrical solder has worked well for me - got mine at a hamfest on a half-pound roll. the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures - and higher temperatures are not good for electronics. Silver-bearing solder is for use with silver plated terminal strips (such as Tektronix used to use); silver in the solder prevents the silver on the terminals from being dissolved by the solder and ruined. Isaac |
I've had good luck with the kester 62/36/2% silver stuff,
which is eutectic. alanh_27 plain old 60-40...worked well for me Hal Rosser If you say so. That wasn't the question. the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures No. http://216.239.57.104/search?q=cache...+60-40-183-191 the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures No. http://216.239.57.104/search?q=cache...+60-40-183-191 eutectic (if my memory serves) just means it's either solid or liquid --and won't just 'soften' -- like ice and water Yup--and that's important for good results. |
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 23:43:35 -0500 "Hal Rosser"
wrote: eutectic (if my memory serves) just means it's either solid or liquid - and won't just 'soften' - like ice and water. The eutectic alloy is the one which has the right proportions to give it the minimum melting point for a given set of constituent metals. I've only seen the word applied to binary alloys, but I suppose it could be applied to alloys of 3 or more metals, too. I'm not sure if that's a proper use of the term, however. A side effect of using the eutectic alloy is that there is a distinctive melting point. When the alloy is non-eutectic, there are separate solidus and liquidus points, between which the alloy is just more or less "slushy." There is no slushy region when a eutectic alloy melts. This sounds like what Hal was describing above. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- |
The eutectic combination of tin and lead is 63% tin, 37% lead. 60/40 has
a slightly higher melting point, and unlike the eutectic alloy, has a plastic stage between liquid and solid. Consequently, 63/37 is a better choice for solder. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Hal Rosser wrote: plain old 60-40 rosin-core electrical solder has worked well for me - got mine at a hamfest on a half-pound roll. the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures - and higher temperatures are not good for electronics. eutectic (if my memory serves) just means it's either solid or liquid - and won't just 'soften' - like ice and water. hth Hal w4pmj |
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 23:43:35 -0500, Hal Rosser wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... I've had good luck with the kester 62/36/2% silver stuff, which is eutectic. Many many years ago, I had some luck with a indium-bismuth solder paste in syringes from Indium Corp. Haven't fiddled with any of their stuff since then. Radio Shack sells a bag of little peices of tape-form stuff. Never got it to work well. Favorites? plain old 60-40 rosin-core electrical solder has worked well for me - got mine at a hamfest on a half-pound roll. the silver stuff (I believe) melts at higher temperatures - and higher temperatures are not good for electronics. eutectic (if my memory serves) just means it's either solid or liquid - and won't just 'soften' - like ice and water. hth Hal w4pmj 63/37 solder is eutectic. |
In article , Roy Lewallen wrote: The eutectic combination of tin and lead is 63% tin, 37% lead. 60/40 has a slightly higher melting point, and unlike the eutectic alloy, has a plastic stage between liquid and solid. Consequently, 63/37 is a better choice for solder. I understand that there's a tradeoff involved. The 63/37 eutectic has a lower melting point and no plastic stage, and some people feel that the latter reduces the risk of 'cold' solder joints somewhat. On the other hand, I've read that the 60/40 alloy is somewhat superior in its "wetting" property - it adheres and bonds to some base metals better than the eutectic does, and might make superior joints as a result. I tend to prefer the eutectic, or a eutectic modified with 2% silver. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
Also, there are things like stainless steel, and aluminium that don't
like regular 60/40 solder-- however silver solder will solder to stainless antenna rods (repair antenna whips, ect). and aluminium is easy to solder to, but consider : 1) that aluminium oxide WON'T allow solder to adhear to it, and that : 2) aluminium oxidizes almost immedietly ! The way to solder to aluminium without special solders/ fluxes is to scrape the surface, and then immediatly apply hot iron and solder. Then solder will adhear to it! As a side note, concerning the oxidation of aluminium, consider that the silver powder in fireworks is powdered aluminium! Have a friend , whose dad told of his experience with it (powdered)-- was used to make aluminium based paint- he was told by his boss to get rid of it-- threw it into an incinerator-- and, KABKOOIE ! as info, Jim NN7K Isaac Wingfield wrote: Silver-bearing solder is for use with silver plated terminal strips (such as Tektronix used to use); silver in the solder prevents the silver on the terminals from being dissolved by the solder and ruined. Isaac |
"Jim - NN7K" wrote in message om... As a side note, concerning the oxidation of aluminium, consider that the silver powder in fireworks is powdered aluminium! Have a friend , whose dad told of his experience with it (powdered)-- was used to make aluminium based paint- he was told by his boss to get rid of it-- threw it into an incinerator-- and, KABKOOIE ! as info, Jim NN7K IIRC, 'Thermite' is made from Iron Oxide and Aluminium powder, and that burns rather hot! Dave |
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