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jimbo April 25th 06 10:41 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in
my attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space.
You may recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the
ladder line J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line
and constructed a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my
basement work shop to give the best SWR and then took it up to the
attic. The following table shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing.
But, I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and
that things changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess
this design is influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an
end fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR
across the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about
this design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my
basement shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.

jimbo - AJ7IM

[email protected] April 26th 06 12:43 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

jimbo wrote:
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in
my attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space.
You may recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the
ladder line J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line
and constructed a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my
basement work shop to give the best SWR and then took it up to the
attic. The following table shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing.
But, I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and
that things changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess
this design is influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an
end fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR
across the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about
this design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my
basement shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.

jimbo - AJ7IM


Hi Jimbo, it has been my experience, and everybody else's that an
indoor or attic J-pole is unpredictable. A high impedance end fed
antenna in an attic environment will be hard to predict. Moving it one
foot can effect things.
You might consider the SO-239 ground plane. It can be built and
tuned in 30 minutes, is 50 ohms, so it will not be so concerned about
its environment. Likely you could not tell a difference in performance
from a J-pole especially if they are both in the attic.
Oh yes, the standard-if the SWR is below 3.0, don't worry about it.
Gary N4AST


Buck April 26th 06 02:42 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On 25 Apr 2006 16:43:11 -0700, wrote:


jimbo wrote:

SNIP
jimbo - AJ7IM


Hi Jimbo, it has been my experience, and everybody else's that an
indoor or attic J-pole is unpredictable. A high impedance end fed
antenna in an attic environment will be hard to predict. Moving it one
foot can effect things.
You might consider the SO-239 ground plane. It can be built and
tuned in 30 minutes, is 50 ohms, so it will not be so concerned about
its environment. Likely you could not tell a difference in performance
from a J-pole especially if they are both in the attic.
Oh yes, the standard-if the SWR is below 3.0, don't worry about it.
Gary N4AST



I started building dipole antennas. they can be mounted horizontal or
vertical and easily moved around. I use cpvc with a dipole wire
inside and a coax-choke balun. They work quite well.

Just another option.
--
73 for now
Buck
N4PGW

Sal M. Onella April 26th 06 06:32 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

"jimbo" wrote in message
. ..
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in
my attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space.
You may recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the
ladder line J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line
and constructed a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my
basement work shop to give the best SWR and then took it up to the
attic. The following table shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing.
But, I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and
that things changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess
this design is influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an
end fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR
across the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about
this design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my
basement shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.



Not to detract from the other posters ... IMO they all made valid comments,
but I offer this:

As the builder of about 20 copper pipe j-poles, I discovered that I can get
a better final VSWR if I include a 100 pF (or so) cap in the side fed by the
coax center.

I had been attaching an SO-239-type bulkhead connector to the short side of
the J and running a piece of solid wire from the center pin over to the long
side of the J. I could get the VSWR to a dip near the middle of the band by
monkeying with the feed point and/or trimming the length but the lowest I
usually got was around 1.5 : 1. As soon as I used the cap in place of the
straight wire, I could get 1:1. It works for me ... your mileage may vary.

I built more j-poles for 2M than all the others combined and 20 is not a lot
of antennas. For some reason, the cap seems to help the 2M size more than
it helps the others, but these antennas are too few in number for scientific
judgements by this amateur plumber.

73,
John



jimbo April 26th 06 04:14 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
jimbo wrote:
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in my
attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space. You
may recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the ladder
line J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line and
constructed a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my
basement work shop to give the best SWR and then took it up to the
attic. The following table shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing.
But, I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and that
things changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess this
design is influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an
end fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR
across the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about this
design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my basement
shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.

jimbo - AJ7IM


I guess my conclusion is that the conventional J-Pole design seems to
be more susceptible to near by objects than the much less common end
fed, open stub, J-Pole. My conventional copper J-pole changed much
more than the end fed Arrow J-Pole when moved from the basement to the
attic. And I have noticed on other occasions that even very small
changes in location and/or orientation had a large effect on SWR.

The ARRL Antenna Book has a small section on J-Pole antennas. They
show both designs, conventional shorted stub and the uncommon end fed,
open stub designs. They say that the shorted stub design should have a
4/1 balun at the feed point because a direct coax connection results
in extreme sensitivity to near by objects. And they also say the end
fed, open stub design doesn't require a balun and is much less
sensitive to near by objects, but is harder to tune. (I don't
understand that point, there is one less parameter to fiddle with.)

All of this leads me to wonder why almost all J-Pole designs one sees
are of the shorted stub version and almost none use a balun. I suspect
ease of construction and low cost. My "store bought" Arrow end fed,
open stub, J-Pole seems to verify the ARRL Antenna Book's conclusions
about sensitivity to near by objects. However, do-it-yourself
construction does appear to be much more difficult. I may give it a
try, just out of curiosity.

A final note. My attic is a very difficult place to work. There is no
way I can install an antenna and then make numerous adjustments to get
it tuned to the space. I must be able to do any required tuning in my
basement shop or maybe outside on my deck and then take it to the
attic for installation. So for my application, I want something that
is not sensitive to near by objects. The end fed, open stub J-Pole
seems to fit that requirement.

73s jimbo

Dan Richardson April 26th 06 04:58 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 09:14:24 -0600, jimbo wrote:
[snip]
The ARRL Antenna Book has a small section on J-Pole antennas. They
show both designs, conventional shorted stub and the uncommon end fed,
open stub designs. They say that the shorted stub design should have a
4/1 balun at the feed point because a direct coax connection results
in extreme sensitivity to near by objects. And they also say the end
fed, open stub design doesn't require a balun and is much less
sensitive to near by objects, but is harder to tune. (I don't
understand that point, there is one less parameter to fiddle with.)

All of this leads me to wonder why almost all J-Pole designs one sees
are of the shorted stub version and almost none use a balun. I suspect
ease of construction and low cost. My "store bought" Arrow end fed,
open stub, J-Pole seems to verify the ARRL Antenna Book's conclusions
about sensitivity to near by objects. However, do-it-yourself
construction does appear to be much more difficult. I may give it a
try, just out of curiosity.


[snip]

A j-pole (open or closed stub) will perform better with a common mode
choke at the feed point. Even better, use two chokes. One at the feed
point and the other 1/4-wave down the line.

This will reduce the higher angle radiation that results from the feed
line being part of the antenna.

Using a choke on ANY antenna fed with coax is just good engineering
practice. It can't hurt - only help. A few turns of coax costs very
little.

73,
Danny, K6MHE


In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one
useless man is a shame, two is a law firm, and three
or more is a congress. - John Adams

email: k6mheatarrldotnet
http://www.k6mhe.com/

jimbo April 26th 06 06:54 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:

You can effect the match with either open or shorted stubs when the
dimensions are correct. Performance is not significantly different.

See Mr Cebiks site. He has done a lot of work that is more fact than
lore.


A final note. My attic is a very difficult place to work. There is no
way I can install an antenna and then make numerous adjustments to get
it tuned to the space. I must be able to do any required tuning in my
basement shop or maybe outside on my deck and then take it to the
attic for installation. So for my application, I want something that
is not sensitive to near by objects. The end fed, open stub J-Pole
seems to fit that requirement.



An attic is a problem for many antennas and tuning them is part of it.

One trick I've tried to help others was tune it inside a room and then
note how the SWR changes in location and adjust accordingly.
Tuning in this case was adjusting the length of the longer element
(capped with 1/.4" brass bolt and nut) and stub length without
altering the initial best SWR tap. Usually shortening the longer
element was the needed adjustment.


Allison


Yes, I read Cebik's article on J-Poles several times. I don't doubt
that both designs can be tuned to the same SWR and produce the same
performance. And I tried the brass bolt and nut trick and a coil of
coax at the feed point. But in my basement shop, the shorted stub
copper J-Pole was very, very sensitive to almost any change of
orientation or location. And then everything changed when I installed
it in the attic. But the Arrow open stub J-Pole seemed to produce the
same SWR regardless of orientation or location in my basement or in
the attic.

Anyway, thanks for the insight, jimbo

[email protected] April 27th 06 10:48 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

"jimbo" wrote in message
. ..
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in my
attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space. You may
recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the ladder line
J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line and constructed
a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my basement work shop
to give the best SWR and then took it up to the attic. The following table
shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing. But,
I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and that things
changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess this design is
influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an end
fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR across
the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about this
design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my basement
shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.

jimbo - AJ7IM




[email protected] April 27th 06 10:54 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

"jimbo" wrote in message
. ..
I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in my
attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space. You may
recall an earlier post where I discussed SWR on one of the ladder line
J-Poles I was working with. Well, I gave up on ladder line and constructed
a J-Pole from 1/2 inch copper tubing. I tuned it in my basement work shop
to give the best SWR and then took it up to the attic. The following table
shows the results.

Basement Attic

144 1.90 1.80
145 1.65 2.00
146 1.50 2.10
147 1.60 2.25
147.995 1.90 2.25

Actually, probably not that bad for a first attempt at copper tubing. But,
I didn't like the fact that SWR was above 2.0 in my attic and that things
changed between my basement shop and the attic. I guess this design is
influenced by objects close by.

So, somewhere in my surfing I came across the Arrow J-Pole. This is an end
fed, open stub commercial design that promises less that 1.5 SWR across
the band. Here are the results of my experiment with this antenna.

Basement Attic

144 1.10 1.22
145 1.18 1.10
146 1.25 1.20
147 1.30 1.32
147.995 1.40 1.42

Not 1.0 SWR but certainly met the promise. And the best thing about this
design is that near by objects don't seem to have an impact on
performance. If I built one of these designs and tuned it in my basement
shop, it should give the same results in the attic.

Anyway, just my subjective observations.

jimbo - AJ7IM


You should be able to tweak the antenna on the bench until the SWR is more
like 1.15:1 or so. Once you get it right there will probably be a lot less
detuning once it is put in the attic



Bob April 29th 06 06:10 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
The J-pole crowd seems to tout fantastic claims about this antenna and I
have never been impressed. Many people have tested the J-pole against
other easy to make antennas and the end fed half wave J-pole usually
does not stand up to even it’s brother, the center fed half wave dipole.
I assume the decrease in performance is due to mistakes in assembling
and tuning the matching section. Here is a link to a group that tested
some J-poles against other antennas in the CA desert and the J-pole lost
to even simple 1/4 wave ground plane types.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconVall...5/anttest.html
My point is, why not make a simple ground plane for the attic that may
not get bothered by surroundings as much as the J-pole.
Bob


Buck wrote:
On 25 Apr 2006 16:43:11 -0700, wrote:

jimbo wrote:

SNIP
jimbo - AJ7IM

Hi Jimbo, it has been my experience, and everybody else's that an
indoor or attic J-pole is unpredictable. A high impedance end fed
antenna in an attic environment will be hard to predict. Moving it one
foot can effect things.
You might consider the SO-239 ground plane. It can be built and
tuned in 30 minutes, is 50 ohms, so it will not be so concerned about
its environment. Likely you could not tell a difference in performance
from a J-pole especially if they are both in the attic.
Oh yes, the standard-if the SWR is below 3.0, don't worry about it.
Gary N4AST



I started building dipole antennas. they can be mounted horizontal or
vertical and easily moved around. I use cpvc with a dipole wire
inside and a coax-choke balun. They work quite well.

Just another option.


Roy Lewallen April 29th 06 08:31 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:
I happen to like them as they can be made from common materials with
excellent ruggedness. As to the other claims of fantastic gain and
all, it's bogus. It's a vertical halfwave endfed and the gain is
2.4ish DB over a dipole and that's all. If executed correctly it
will be better than a 1/4wl groundplane but not by any fanstastic
amount. For many applications that is a "good enough" antenna.

Allison


What's the mechanism which gives this half wave antenna 2.4 dB gain over
a half wave dipole?

Modeling shows the gain to be the same as a dipole, if you can manage to
keep the current on the outside of the feedline to a small value. If you
can't, the gain in the horizontal direction typically becomes less than
a dipole.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Cecil Moore April 29th 06 09:21 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:

I happen to like them as they can be made from common materials with
excellent ruggedness.


A 1/4WL ground plane takes one SO-239 and five pieces of
19 inch copper wire (or stingers). :-)
--
73, Cecil
http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Cecil Moore April 29th 06 09:25 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Roy Lewallen wrote:
What's the mechanism which gives this half wave antenna 2.4 dB gain over
a half wave dipole?


A J-Pole over ground obviously has gain over a half wave
dipole in free space? :-)
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Cecil Moore April 29th 06 10:07 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:

Cecil Moore wrote:
A 1/4WL ground plane takes one SO-239 and five pieces of
19 inch copper wire (or stingers). :-)


Now drive over one with a Chevy Pickup, the Jpole survived that
at field day one year.


Well, I just did that with a GMC pickup (hope that counts).
Nothing broke. I just straightened out the wires and it
still works just fine. If, Heaven forbid, a wire broke, it
would only take a butt connector and 20 seconds to repair it.
--
73, Cecil
http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Brian Murrey April 29th 06 11:28 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Same here..in the attic...works great...even at 50w.

73 de KB9BVN


--
=========================================
Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox!
http://www.hamradparts.com
73 de KB9BVN
=========================================


"Buck" wrote in message
...
On 25 Apr 2006 16:43:11 -0700, wrote:


jimbo wrote:

SNIP
jimbo - AJ7IM


Hi Jimbo, it has been my experience, and everybody else's that an
indoor or attic J-pole is unpredictable. A high impedance end fed
antenna in an attic environment will be hard to predict. Moving it one
foot can effect things.
You might consider the SO-239 ground plane. It can be built and
tuned in 30 minutes, is 50 ohms, so it will not be so concerned about
its environment. Likely you could not tell a difference in performance
from a J-pole especially if they are both in the attic.
Oh yes, the standard-if the SWR is below 3.0, don't worry about it.
Gary N4AST



I started building dipole antennas. they can be mounted horizontal or
vertical and easily moved around. I use cpvc with a dipole wire
inside and a coax-choke balun. They work quite well.

Just another option.
--
73 for now
Buck
N4PGW




Roy Lewallen April 29th 06 11:45 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:

Verticle polarization has less power headed toward space (up for a
H-dipole) and still benefits from ground effects. The model for free
space nets the same gain as dipole. The problem with free space is
my backyard has dirt in it.


It appears you're comparing a half wave horizontal dipole with a (half
wave) J pole. Ground does have a major impact on the performance of the
antennas, but the reflection results in loss of a lot of signal power if
the wave is at a low angle and vertically polarized. Horizontally
polarized waves, in contrast, reflect with very little loss at low
angles. I haven't tried modeling it, but would guess that in a typical
line-of-sight path where there can be one ground reflection in addition
to the direct path, the signal would go through fades and reinforcements
as you varied the antenna height. Because of the lower loss of
horizontally polarized reflections, the fades would be deeper and the
reinforcements stronger with horizontal polarization. On the average,
the horizontal would be better (that is, the average signal for all
heights would be stronger) because no significant loss is incurred in
the reflection. But getting a decent signal would be much more of a gamble.

Those looking at modeling results from EZNEC or similar programs should
realize that the far field analysis isn't a good simulation of this
situation. Probably the best way to model it would be to model two
antennas, one at each location, over ground. Put a source in one antenna
(the transmitting antenna) and a conjugately matched load at the
feedpoint of the other (the receiving antenna). Then look at the power
delivered to the load for various receiving antennas. There's a
practical limit to how far apart the antennas can be before numerical
limitations are reached, but with double precision calculations they can
be quite a distance apart.

The conventional J pole with half wavelength radiator has the same gain
as a vertical half wave dipole, again assuming you can keep the current
on the outside of the feedline to a low value for both antennas.


However for free space groundplane compared to free space verticle
halfwave there is gain. Better radiation angle as well.


A quarter wavelength vertical ground plane antenna has the same gain and
pattern as a half wavelength vertical dipole, and the same as a J pole
(if you can keep the current on the outside of the J pole feedline to a
reasonably small value). This is true whether in free space or over
ground, and it can be demonstrated by theory, measurement, and modeling.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

jimbo April 30th 06 03:09 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Bob wrote:
snip

My point is, why not make a simple ground plane for the attic that may
not get bothered by surroundings as much as the J-pole.
Bob


I made one of those antennas right after I got my Tech license. Hit
the local repeater with no problems. I guess I forgot or thought it
was too simple for the current application.

jimbo

Sal M. Onella May 1st 06 04:43 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

"Bob" wrote in message
. com...
The J-pole crowd seems to tout fantastic claims about this antenna and I
have never been impressed. Many people have tested the J-pole against
other easy to make antennas and the end fed half wave J-pole usually
does not stand up to even it’s brother, the center fed half wave dipole.
I assume the decrease in performance is due to mistakes in assembling
and tuning the matching section. Here is a link to a group that tested
some J-poles against other antennas in the CA desert and the J-pole lost
to even simple 1/4 wave ground plane types.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconVall...5/anttest.html


snip

A quick look at the numbers doesn't make the j-pole look so all-fired bad.
"Losing" by 1 dB or so isn't a serious loss. Ham radio isn't exactly the
Kentucky Derby.

I don't know what "fantastic claims" you've heard, but my affinity for the
j-pole comes from its simplicity and durability. It's a halfwave vertical
that requires no ground plane and can often be matched to 1:1 at the sweet
spot. Mounting is a dream -- it even works if you drop the low end into a
plumbing vent pipe. (How would I know that? ;-)

I have never built a center-fed halfwave, but we use a bunch of them in the
Navy -- call them "stovepipes" because of the way the fiberglass housings
look -- and they work very, very well. The elements are large metal
cylinders, tending to make them quite broadband. I do not know how they're
fed ... balun or what.

John , KD6VKW



[email protected] May 6th 06 08:09 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
I happen to like them as they can be made from common materials with
excellent ruggedness.
A 1/4WL ground plane takes one SO-239 and five pieces of
19 inch copper wire (or stingers). :-)

AND if you make it out of stiff wire (say #12 or so), it can be folded
to fit in a grab-n-go box and then unfolded when needed! The slight bends
caused by folding/unfolding may not look neat, but it's mighty handy!

--
--Myron A. Calhoun.
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge
PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol)

[email protected] May 6th 06 08:22 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
The J-pole crowd seems to tout fantastic claims about this antenna and I
....[snip]....


... my affinity for the j-pole comes from its simplicity and durability.
... Mounting is a dream -- it even works if you drop the low end into a

plumbing vent pipe. (How would I know that? ;-)
....[snip]....


I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked
OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a
wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went
to pot. Did I do something wrong?

(I concluded the J-pole must be VERY sensitive to its surroundings.)

--
--Myron A. Calhoun.
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge
PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol)

Cecil Moore May 6th 06 09:00 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:
I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked
OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a
wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went
to pot. Did I do something wrong?


What kind of metal was behind the window frame?
--
73, Cecil
http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

Dan Richardson May 7th 06 02:19 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On Sun, 07 May 2006 00:39:24 GMT,
wrote:

Measurements are required. A suitable SWR meter of some form
is needed or your just guessing.


Judging an antenna's performance based upon SWR is a very poor
indicator of how it will radiate.

Danny, K6MHE


In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one
useless man is a shame, two is a law firm, and three
or more is a congress. - John Adams

email: k6mheatarrldotnet
http://www.k6mhe.com/

Tom Ring May 7th 06 05:29 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
jimbo wrote:

I have been trying to get an acceptable 2 meter antenna installed in my
attic. A J-Pole seemed to me the best solution for my attic space. You

snip
jimbo - AJ7IM


Here is a link to one I have had good luck with. Works quite well out
of the box. I use two chaokes, one at the base, and one 19 inches below
that. You may need to trim the length of the half wave section, so cut
it a smidge long.

http://www.hamuniverse.com/2mladjpole.html

tom
K0TAR


[email protected] May 10th 06 02:43 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked
OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a
wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went
to pot. Did I do something wrong?

What kind of metal was behind the window frame?

The house was old enuf that I'm sure it was made of wood, and
since it was a PICTURE window, there were no sash weights, either.

So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials?

--
--Myron A. Calhoun.
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge
PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol)

Buck May 10th 06 04:56 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On 9 May 2006 20:43:50 -0500, wrote:

So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials?


yes, and also, RF doesn't always saturate an area.

The wire in the j-pole is affected by the insulating material the twin
lead is made from. Different types have different dimensions for the
j-pole lengths.

Though it doesn't make sense sometimes, moving an antenna near a wall
may cause a negative effect. I have that problem at my kids house.
They are hams and I setup a hook in the ceiling to hang a pole. It
worked, but their mom didn't want it hanging so far from the wall and
moved it against the wall. It doesn't work. So we found a compromise
spot near another wall, a corner actually. It works but it is leaning
at about 20 degrees coming from the corner.

There is also a problem of RF holes. Mobile operators and HT or
portable operators experience them the most. It is the cause of
picket-fencing. The mobile moves from a hot spot to a not-so-hot
spot. A portable rig can usually find the hot spot or the dead spot
easily. I can hit the local repeater from inside my room with low
power on my ht. outside about three feet away, I can't hit it on high
power. It is further from the wall there.

Good luck
Buck

--
73 for now
Buck
N4PGW

Dave Platt May 10th 06 05:39 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
In article , wrote:

What kind of metal was behind the window frame?

The house was old enuf that I'm sure it was made of wood, and
since it was a PICTURE window, there were no sash weights, either.

So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials?


That depends on the materials. Conductive, or lossy-dielectric
materials seem to have a significant effect especially when located
near the high-impedance points.

When I built a ladder-line J-pole and hung it next to my house's
outside wall, it de-tuned quite badly. Its performance stank so badly
that I could barely reach a nearby repeater.

When I hung it by an inside wall, it was not de-tuned enough to affect
the radio's performance appreciably (I didn't have an MFJ meter at the
time and so don't know the actual degree of de-tuning). I was able to
hit the repeater quite well even though the antenna was further inside
the house.

The first (outside) wall was stucco... with embedded chicken wire.
The second (inner) wall was drywall and lumber.

I suspect that exterior brick, or stone, or wet wood, would fall
somewhere in between the two in terms of de-tuning potential.

My guess is that the classic J-pole may be somewhat more vulnerable to
being de-tuned by nearby materials than a center-fed half-wave
radiator. The quarter-wave matching section is often fairly critical
of adjustment - I've read reports that even small changes in the
configuration of the upper potion of the matching section (e.g.
material near the open end of the stub, or changes in the spacing) can
cause some fairly large changes in the J-pole's feedpoint impedance.
Standard J-pole antennas seem to work most stably when built of rigid
materials and mounted "in the clear".

I haven't read any reports of actual experiments which attempted to
quantify the tuning stability of the classic J-pole, compared with
variants like the Arrow (a.k.a. Cebik's nontypical design), the
open-sleeve, and the sperrtopf coaxial design, or compared with a
center-fed dipole or other varieties of halfwave radiator. It'd be an
interesting study to try to put together.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Buck May 10th 06 06:37 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On Wed, 10 May 2006 04:39:07 -0000, (Dave Platt)
wrote:

My guess is that the classic J-pole may be somewhat more vulnerable to
being de-tuned by nearby materials than a center-fed half-wave
radiator.


My experience at my kids' place is that it has the same effect on the
vertical dipole as it does with the jpole. I have a dipole I created
by using wire inside a cpvc pipe. The coax was rolled up to form the
choke balun. The dipole antenna has the same problem with hitting the
local repeaters as the jpole did. In the same places, the two
antennas had such similar effects that I could literally not tell a
difference either in audio or signal strength as displayed by the
radio. SUper J-Poles, on the other hand, perform much better than
either the j-pole or the vertical dipole.


--
73 for now
Buck
N4PGW

jimbo May 10th 06 03:03 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
wrote:
I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked
OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a
wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went
to pot. Did I do something wrong?

What kind of metal was behind the window frame?

The house was old enuf that I'm sure it was made of wood, and
since it was a PICTURE window, there were no sash weights, either.

So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials?


My limited experience with three J-Poles indicates that they are very
sensitive to nearby materials. I tried tuning in my shop which is
fairly cluttered and in the basement of a stucco finished townhouse. I
used thin rope to hang the J-Poles from an overhead floor joist.
Changing the location by only several inches changed the SWR. I found
a spot about four feet from the nearest object which gave the lowest
SWR. A ladder line J-pole was still very difficult to tune and it
changed significantly when it was moved to the attic. A copper J-Pole
was easier to tune but it also changed when it was moved to the attic.
The Arrow end fed was "store bought" so I didn't make any adjustments
in the basement. It had a reasonable SWR in the basement and it didn't
change when it was moved to the attic.

I did some more tuning of the copper J-Pole on my deck. SWR changed
with location, even though the deck is fairly open. The best SWR was
with the J-Pole in a 5 gallon pickle crock sitting near the center of
the deck.

jimbo

Sal M. Onella May 11th 06 04:57 AM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 

"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...


snip

I haven't read any reports of actual experiments which attempted to
quantify the tuning stability of the classic J-pole ...


snip

That, sir is about to change:

I wondered about the effect of mast material, so I took a freshly built
j-pole and mounted it in the clear. I noted the XMIT reflected power (low)
and moved a ten-foot piece of galvanized steel mast around the antenna, I
found I had to get within about an inch to see the reflected power increase.

Next, I found a repeater with nearly continuous chatter and connected the
j-pole through an attenuator to my radio. I set the attenuator so the
received audio was very noisy -- another dB or two and the conversation was
unreadable. That same piece of mast material had essentially the same
effect: had to get really close to louse up the antenna's performance.

That said, if I take a j-pole and walk around with it, periodically
measuring the reflected power, I will see physical locations where it bumps
up. That's probably not detuning; it's probably reflected power off a wall
or fence, which could be what's happening in the OP's attic. (Navy ship
radars' reflected power monitors will "bump up" every time the antenna
rotates past the mast or some other bit of ship's structure.)

Is this great science? No. Is it worth noting? I hope so.



jimbo May 11th 06 03:53 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Sal M. Onella wrote:
"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...


snip

I haven't read any reports of actual experiments which attempted to
quantify the tuning stability of the classic J-pole ...



snip

That, sir is about to change:

I wondered about the effect of mast material, so I took a freshly built
j-pole and mounted it in the clear. I noted the XMIT reflected power (low)
and moved a ten-foot piece of galvanized steel mast around the antenna, I
found I had to get within about an inch to see the reflected power increase.

Next, I found a repeater with nearly continuous chatter and connected the
j-pole through an attenuator to my radio. I set the attenuator so the
received audio was very noisy -- another dB or two and the conversation was
unreadable. That same piece of mast material had essentially the same
effect: had to get really close to louse up the antenna's performance.

That said, if I take a j-pole and walk around with it, periodically
measuring the reflected power, I will see physical locations where it bumps
up. That's probably not detuning; it's probably reflected power off a wall
or fence, which could be what's happening in the OP's attic. (Navy ship
radars' reflected power monitors will "bump up" every time the antenna
rotates past the mast or some other bit of ship's structure.)

Is this great science? No. Is it worth noting? I hope so.



Maybe reflected power off of nearby objects is the cause of poor
performance of my J-Pole in the basement shop. And the attic has the
roof overhead and many, many cross braces, typical of pre-fab trusses.
Anyway, I am satisfied with the Arrow end fed antenna in the attic.
But, I am disappointed with my home made J-Poles. Maybe I will try a
little SO239 1/4 wave, just to see if there is any difference.

Thanks for the help, jimbo

Dan Richardson May 11th 06 04:25 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
On Thu, 11 May 2006 08:53:05 -0600, jimbo wrote:

Maybe reflected power off of nearby objects is the cause of poor
performance of my J-Pole in the basement shop. And the attic has the
roof overhead and many, many cross braces, typical of pre-fab trusses.
Anyway, I am satisfied with the Arrow end fed antenna in the attic.
But, I am disappointed with my home made J-Poles. Maybe I will try a
little SO239 1/4 wave, just to see if there is any difference.


I'm wondering if you are using a common mode choke? Also what type of
mast are you using to support the antenna?

Danny, K6MHE

In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one
useless man is a shame, two is a law firm, and three
or more is a congress. - John Adams

email: k6mheatarrldotnet
http://www.k6mhe.com/

jimbo May 11th 06 05:02 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Dan Richardson wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2006 08:53:05 -0600, jimbo wrote:


Maybe reflected power off of nearby objects is the cause of poor
performance of my J-Pole in the basement shop. And the attic has the
roof overhead and many, many cross braces, typical of pre-fab trusses.
Anyway, I am satisfied with the Arrow end fed antenna in the attic.
But, I am disappointed with my home made J-Poles. Maybe I will try a
little SO239 1/4 wave, just to see if there is any difference.



I'm wondering if you are using a common mode choke? Also what type of
mast are you using to support the antenna?

Danny, K6MHE

In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one
useless man is a shame, two is a law firm, and three
or more is a congress. - John Adams

email: k6mheatarrldotnet
http://www.k6mhe.com/


I have tried with and without a coax loop, 5 turns about 6 inches in
diameter. I couldn't see any difference. I use a 1/8 inch diameter
rope to hang the J-Pole from a joist in the basement or from a roof
rafter in the attic.

jimbo

Roy Lewallen May 11th 06 06:59 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
jimbo wrote:
Dan Richardson wrote:

I'm wondering if you are using a common mode choke? Also what type of
mast are you using to support the antenna?


I have tried with and without a coax loop, 5 turns about 6 inches in
diameter. I couldn't see any difference. I use a 1/8 inch diameter rope
to hang the J-Pole from a joist in the basement or from a roof rafter in
the attic.


A single choke blocks conducted common mode current. But a J pole (and
ground plane, for that matter) can also have considerable common mode
current due to coupling between the antenna and feedline, which can
distort the pattern and reduce the gain at the horizon. This can
actually be made worse by a choke in some cases. Two chokes, about a
quarter wave apart, are necessary to reliably reduce the coupled
current. The amount of conducted and coupled current you have without
chokes depend on the feedline length and orientation, so it can be small
in some installations and large in others. I suspect that's one reason
why people report such widely varying degrees of success with this antenna.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Tom Ring May 11th 06 10:17 PM

J_Pole Trials and Tribulations
 
Roy Lewallen wrote:

jimbo wrote:

I have tried with and without a coax loop, 5 turns about 6 inches in
diameter. I couldn't see any difference. I use a 1/8 inch diameter
rope to hang the J-Pole from a joist in the basement or from a roof
rafter in the attic.



A single choke blocks conducted common mode current. But a J pole (and
ground plane, for that matter) can also have considerable common mode
current due to coupling between the antenna and feedline, which can
distort the pattern and reduce the gain at the horizon. This can
actually be made worse by a choke in some cases. Two chokes, about a
quarter wave apart, are necessary to reliably reduce the coupled
current. The amount of conducted and coupled current you have without
chokes depend on the feedline length and orientation, so it can be small
in some installations and large in others. I suspect that's one reason
why people report such widely varying degrees of success with this antenna.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL


Isn't 6 inch diameter a little large for 2 meters?

tom
K0TAR


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