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-   -   Help with Hallicrafters S-77 (https://www.radiobanter.com/boatanchors/3847-help-hallicrafters-s-77-a.html)

Ron October 8th 03 10:25 AM

Help with Hallicrafters S-77
 
Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



Frank Dresser October 8th 03 02:30 PM


"Ron" wrote in message
...
Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I've never worked on this particular radio, but I believe it's similiar to
the S-40A, which I have.
The bandspread cap must be fully open to align the radio. The bandspread
dial might read "Set to zero for normal tuning". If so, it should be at
zero with the bandspread cap fully opened. Both knobs should close it's
respective tuning capacitor (lower frequency) when rotated counterclockwise.
I mention that because the dial stringing diagram is incorrect on my service
manual. The oscillator frequency is above the signal frequency on bands 1 -
3 and below it on band 4.

The BoatAnchor Manual Archive has the service manual online:

http://bama.sbc.edu/hallicra.htm

So, how hot does that ballast resistor get?

Frank Dresser



Frank Dresser October 8th 03 02:30 PM


"Ron" wrote in message
...
Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I've never worked on this particular radio, but I believe it's similiar to
the S-40A, which I have.
The bandspread cap must be fully open to align the radio. The bandspread
dial might read "Set to zero for normal tuning". If so, it should be at
zero with the bandspread cap fully opened. Both knobs should close it's
respective tuning capacitor (lower frequency) when rotated counterclockwise.
I mention that because the dial stringing diagram is incorrect on my service
manual. The oscillator frequency is above the signal frequency on bands 1 -
3 and below it on band 4.

The BoatAnchor Manual Archive has the service manual online:

http://bama.sbc.edu/hallicra.htm

So, how hot does that ballast resistor get?

Frank Dresser



Ron October 8th 03 06:46 PM


Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....


On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 13:30:26 GMT, "Frank Dresser"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote in message
...
Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I've never worked on this particular radio, but I believe it's similiar to
the S-40A, which I have.
The bandspread cap must be fully open to align the radio. The bandspread
dial might read "Set to zero for normal tuning". If so, it should be at
zero with the bandspread cap fully opened. Both knobs should close it's
respective tuning capacitor (lower frequency) when rotated counterclockwise.
I mention that because the dial stringing diagram is incorrect on my service
manual. The oscillator frequency is above the signal frequency on bands 1 -
3 and below it on band 4.

The BoatAnchor Manual Archive has the service manual online:

http://bama.sbc.edu/hallicra.htm

So, how hot does that ballast resistor get?

Frank Dresser



Ron October 8th 03 06:46 PM


Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....


On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 13:30:26 GMT, "Frank Dresser"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote in message
...
Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I've never worked on this particular radio, but I believe it's similiar to
the S-40A, which I have.
The bandspread cap must be fully open to align the radio. The bandspread
dial might read "Set to zero for normal tuning". If so, it should be at
zero with the bandspread cap fully opened. Both knobs should close it's
respective tuning capacitor (lower frequency) when rotated counterclockwise.
I mention that because the dial stringing diagram is incorrect on my service
manual. The oscillator frequency is above the signal frequency on bands 1 -
3 and below it on band 4.

The BoatAnchor Manual Archive has the service manual online:

http://bama.sbc.edu/hallicra.htm

So, how hot does that ballast resistor get?

Frank Dresser



Frank Dresser October 8th 03 08:46 PM


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....




The S-77 is described as the AC/DC version of the S-40B. The power supplies
are the major differences, the alignment instructions should be the same.
So, try downloading the S-40B manual, or any of the others from the S-40
series.

Frank Dresser



Frank Dresser October 8th 03 08:46 PM


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....




The S-77 is described as the AC/DC version of the S-40B. The power supplies
are the major differences, the alignment instructions should be the same.
So, try downloading the S-40B manual, or any of the others from the S-40
series.

Frank Dresser



Brian Goldsmith October 9th 03 01:07 AM


"Ron" wrote

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....

*** The manual on Bama is 13 pages of good quality copy,I have just
checked it.
Brian Goldsmith.



Brian Goldsmith October 9th 03 01:07 AM


"Ron" wrote

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....

*** The manual on Bama is 13 pages of good quality copy,I have just
checked it.
Brian Goldsmith.



Space Charge October 9th 03 03:07 AM

Ron:

It's up there, all right, but it's in some whacky .djvu format, which
some other docs up there are in as well; you need the right plug-in to
make MSIE work with it, and MSIE, I think, is the only way you're
going to be able to view it. It won't allow you to export the doc
either, except as individual .BMP files. (Everyone always has to have
a new format...sigh. Too bad they just couldn't stick with the
standard .PDF file format...)

I usually run Mozilla, and the plug-in just will not work with it at
all; if you are running Netscape you might have problems too, as the
rendering engine on Mozilla and Netscape are the same.

I'll try and get it into a .PDF format; if I'm successful, I'll let
you know. I may have to dump every page into a bitmap, and imprt that
into Acrobat, which is pretty much the leading recognized electronic
document format.

-Lin/KJ6EF

================================================== ==

On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 09:25:12 GMT, (Ron)
wrote:

Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



For email responses, remove "nospam_".

Space Charge October 9th 03 03:07 AM

Ron:

It's up there, all right, but it's in some whacky .djvu format, which
some other docs up there are in as well; you need the right plug-in to
make MSIE work with it, and MSIE, I think, is the only way you're
going to be able to view it. It won't allow you to export the doc
either, except as individual .BMP files. (Everyone always has to have
a new format...sigh. Too bad they just couldn't stick with the
standard .PDF file format...)

I usually run Mozilla, and the plug-in just will not work with it at
all; if you are running Netscape you might have problems too, as the
rendering engine on Mozilla and Netscape are the same.

I'll try and get it into a .PDF format; if I'm successful, I'll let
you know. I may have to dump every page into a bitmap, and imprt that
into Acrobat, which is pretty much the leading recognized electronic
document format.

-Lin/KJ6EF

================================================== ==

On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 09:25:12 GMT, (Ron)
wrote:

Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



For email responses, remove "nospam_".

--exray-- October 9th 03 03:42 AM

Space Charge wrote:

I usually run Mozilla, and the plug-in just will not work with it at
all; if you are running Netscape you might have problems too, as the
rendering engine on Mozilla and Netscape are the same.


I'm also using Mozilla (1.3) and have no problems with the browser
plug-in. If you can't get it to fly, try the Solo viewer. It works
independently from your browser and has lots more features anyway.
You can download it here....bottom of page.
http://www.tuberadio.it/utils.htm
You can export the pages and get whatever format you prefer or print
dump into a pdf creator (and watch the file size go way up).

-Bill


--exray-- October 9th 03 03:42 AM

Space Charge wrote:

I usually run Mozilla, and the plug-in just will not work with it at
all; if you are running Netscape you might have problems too, as the
rendering engine on Mozilla and Netscape are the same.


I'm also using Mozilla (1.3) and have no problems with the browser
plug-in. If you can't get it to fly, try the Solo viewer. It works
independently from your browser and has lots more features anyway.
You can download it here....bottom of page.
http://www.tuberadio.it/utils.htm
You can export the pages and get whatever format you prefer or print
dump into a pdf creator (and watch the file size go way up).

-Bill


Space Charge October 9th 03 06:29 AM

On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 22:42:24 -0400, --exray-- wrote:

I'm also using Mozilla (1.3) and have no problems with the browser
plug-in.


Ah, the vagaries of software...

If you can't get it to fly, try the Solo viewer. It works
independently from your browser and has lots more features anyway.
You can download it here....bottom of page.
http://www.tuberadio.it/utils.htm
You can export the pages and get whatever format you prefer or print
dump into a pdf creator (and watch the file size go way up).

-Bill


Interesting! Will give it a try! Tnx!

BTW, using Moz 1.0.2 here...so many code bana-peels to slip on in some
of the later releases, I just held back upgrading for the last stable
version at the time...might also be why the plug-in didn't install
properly....who knows..in the Windows/OS/Bizzaro World, All Things Are
Possible... ;)

-Lin
For email responses, remove "nospam_".

Space Charge October 9th 03 06:29 AM

On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 22:42:24 -0400, --exray-- wrote:

I'm also using Mozilla (1.3) and have no problems with the browser
plug-in.


Ah, the vagaries of software...

If you can't get it to fly, try the Solo viewer. It works
independently from your browser and has lots more features anyway.
You can download it here....bottom of page.
http://www.tuberadio.it/utils.htm
You can export the pages and get whatever format you prefer or print
dump into a pdf creator (and watch the file size go way up).

-Bill


Interesting! Will give it a try! Tnx!

BTW, using Moz 1.0.2 here...so many code bana-peels to slip on in some
of the later releases, I just held back upgrading for the last stable
version at the time...might also be why the plug-in didn't install
properly....who knows..in the Windows/OS/Bizzaro World, All Things Are
Possible... ;)

-Lin
For email responses, remove "nospam_".

--exray-- October 9th 03 06:53 AM

Space Charge wrote:

BTW, using Moz 1.0.2 here...so many code bana-peels to slip on in some
of the later releases, I just held back upgrading for the last stable
version at the time...might also be why the plug-in didn't install
properly....who knows..in the Windows/OS/Bizzaro World, All Things Are
Possible... ;)

-Lin


Well, FWIW, although I use Mozilla it has done nothing to impress me.
Same old bugs throughout the various versions. What hacks me off more
is the attitude of the development group folks..."its a fault of your
video card" and "why don't you rewrite it and correct the fault and
submit it?".
Nope, not ready for prime time. You don't have to be a Bill Gates fan
to see how his company has cornered so much of the market. :-(

-ex


--exray-- October 9th 03 06:53 AM

Space Charge wrote:

BTW, using Moz 1.0.2 here...so many code bana-peels to slip on in some
of the later releases, I just held back upgrading for the last stable
version at the time...might also be why the plug-in didn't install
properly....who knows..in the Windows/OS/Bizzaro World, All Things Are
Possible... ;)

-Lin


Well, FWIW, although I use Mozilla it has done nothing to impress me.
Same old bugs throughout the various versions. What hacks me off more
is the attitude of the development group folks..."its a fault of your
video card" and "why don't you rewrite it and correct the fault and
submit it?".
Nope, not ready for prime time. You don't have to be a Bill Gates fan
to see how his company has cornered so much of the market. :-(

-ex


Ron October 9th 03 07:20 PM


Yep you are right again it was my plug in, it has some sort
of bug in as much paging from 1 down it just circles round
the first three pages? If I start from the last page up then I
see the manual!! weird one.
All ok on the old S-77 it is one fine receiver now that its
realigned, I'm afraid I gave in and modified it slightly as it
kept blowing the mains trip in my house, I've fitted a
small mains transformer on the chassis above the smoothing
cap and rewired the heaters to parrallel from serial and
changed the audio and rect valves to 6.3 and it really is ace!
I've left all the original wiring in place, nothing chopped out
so it could easily be put back to original, thanks for all the
help.
from Ron g3yuh.....


On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 00:07:53 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....

*** The manual on Bama is 13 pages of good quality copy,I have just
checked it.
Brian Goldsmith.



Ron October 9th 03 07:20 PM


Yep you are right again it was my plug in, it has some sort
of bug in as much paging from 1 down it just circles round
the first three pages? If I start from the last page up then I
see the manual!! weird one.
All ok on the old S-77 it is one fine receiver now that its
realigned, I'm afraid I gave in and modified it slightly as it
kept blowing the mains trip in my house, I've fitted a
small mains transformer on the chassis above the smoothing
cap and rewired the heaters to parrallel from serial and
changed the audio and rect valves to 6.3 and it really is ace!
I've left all the original wiring in place, nothing chopped out
so it could easily be put back to original, thanks for all the
help.
from Ron g3yuh.....


On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 00:07:53 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....

*** The manual on Bama is 13 pages of good quality copy,I have just
checked it.
Brian Goldsmith.



Ron October 9th 03 07:32 PM



Also whilst on the subject of refurbing these old beasts are
there any new panel transfers available? so I could
have the front and cabinet resprayed and re lettered?
Like the Halicrafters logo and the red and white lettering
I've seen new dials for the R1155 so maybe someone
is producing these items?
from Ron...



On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 19:46:26 GMT, "Frank Dresser"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....




The S-77 is described as the AC/DC version of the S-40B. The power supplies
are the major differences, the alignment instructions should be the same.
So, try downloading the S-40B manual, or any of the others from the S-40
series.

Frank Dresser



Ron October 9th 03 07:32 PM



Also whilst on the subject of refurbing these old beasts are
there any new panel transfers available? so I could
have the front and cabinet resprayed and re lettered?
Like the Halicrafters logo and the red and white lettering
I've seen new dials for the R1155 so maybe someone
is producing these items?
from Ron...



On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 19:46:26 GMT, "Frank Dresser"
wrote:


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi Frank thanks for the info, I wish Bama did have the manual
but when I download what they say is the manual all I get
is a couple of pages on replacing the ballast resister :((
from Ron....




The S-77 is described as the AC/DC version of the S-40B. The power supplies
are the major differences, the alignment instructions should be the same.
So, try downloading the S-40B manual, or any of the others from the S-40
series.

Frank Dresser



--exray-- October 9th 03 08:04 PM

Ron wrote:

Also whilst on the subject of refurbing these old beasts are
there any new panel transfers available? so I could
have the front and cabinet resprayed and re lettered?
Like the Halicrafters logo and the red and white lettering
I've seen new dials for the R1155 so maybe someone
is producing these items?
from Ron...


RockSea Enterprises has the lettering for many of the Hallicrafters models.
http://members.aol.com/RockSeaEnt/

-Bill


--exray-- October 9th 03 08:04 PM

Ron wrote:

Also whilst on the subject of refurbing these old beasts are
there any new panel transfers available? so I could
have the front and cabinet resprayed and re lettered?
Like the Halicrafters logo and the red and white lettering
I've seen new dials for the R1155 so maybe someone
is producing these items?
from Ron...


RockSea Enterprises has the lettering for many of the Hallicrafters models.
http://members.aol.com/RockSeaEnt/

-Bill


donutbandit October 10th 03 06:47 PM

(Ron) wrote in
:

Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I recently aligned my S-77 using the instruction from the BAMA site. Not
hard at all.

Keep in mind, very important - make sure that the first thing you check is
the range of the tuning dial. If this is off (mine was) it can cause all
kinds of trouble. There are index marks at each end to set it's travel.

I was able to get all bands quite close except for the high one. It tracks
fine at low end, but above 30 MHz it's off. I messed with it awhile and let
well enough alone. Who listens above 30 MHz anyway? I set it to track
correctly on 19 and 16 meters.

donutbandit October 10th 03 06:47 PM

(Ron) wrote in
:

Hi
This looks like a sensible news group! who but sensible people
would want to repair and play with Old Knackered Radios :))
Being a lonely Brit trying to refurbish an old American Radio
I'm a bit stuck, I have repaired the old girl and it works very
well after sitting in a garage for many years as a home for
spiders, But I can't seem to align it correctly in as much as
I can't get the osc to track the dial reading and keep it in
good spec across the band? also I'm a bit worried about the
bandspread dial, it reads 100 with the tuning cap fully in
this means as you go up from 0 to 100 you are going down in
frequency? is this right? or has someone strung the dial cord
incorrectly? do I align it with the bandspead cap fully meshed
or not? I could really do with the alignment instructions has
anyone got them out there? I've looked for a manual but they
either want lots of $ (whatever they are :)) or the ones that
are available don't have the circuit or alignment details :((
Also :) Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome
from Ron G3YUH



I recently aligned my S-77 using the instruction from the BAMA site. Not
hard at all.

Keep in mind, very important - make sure that the first thing you check is
the range of the tuning dial. If this is off (mine was) it can cause all
kinds of trouble. There are index marks at each end to set it's travel.

I was able to get all bands quite close except for the high one. It tracks
fine at low end, but above 30 MHz it's off. I messed with it awhile and let
well enough alone. Who listens above 30 MHz anyway? I set it to track
correctly on 19 and 16 meters.

donutbandit October 10th 03 06:50 PM

(Ron) wrote in
:

Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome


You won't find any specific to the S-77.


donutbandit October 10th 03 06:50 PM

(Ron) wrote in
:

Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome


You won't find any specific to the S-77.


Ron October 11th 03 08:35 AM


Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...

On 10 Oct 2003 17:50:17 GMT, donutbandit wrote:

(Ron) wrote in
:

Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome


You won't find any specific to the S-77.



Ron October 11th 03 08:35 AM


Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...

On 10 Oct 2003 17:50:17 GMT, donutbandit wrote:

(Ron) wrote in
:

Are there any transfers or refurb material available
I'd love to respray it but don't want to lose the original
transfers or logo, any help very welcome


You won't find any specific to the S-77.



--exray-- October 11th 03 08:56 AM

Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...


If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M


--exray-- October 11th 03 08:56 AM

Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...


If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M


Frank Dresser October 12th 03 04:02 AM


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.


I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but
it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the
turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the
original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of
lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from
the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil
form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's
about half of the range from the tuning slug.

If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you
can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the
brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge
copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded
the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread
inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got
the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a
little less inductance.

Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are
important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair
amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q.
You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold
the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition
the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better,
and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends.


It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters
designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from
about 40 to 45 Mc.

Frank Dresser




Frank Dresser October 12th 03 04:02 AM


"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.


I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but
it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the
turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the
original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of
lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from
the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil
form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's
about half of the range from the tuning slug.

If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you
can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the
brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge
copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded
the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread
inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got
the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a
little less inductance.

Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are
important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair
amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q.
You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold
the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition
the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better,
and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends.


It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters
designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from
about 40 to 45 Mc.

Frank Dresser




knobtwiddler November 27th 09 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by --exray-- (Post 27568)
Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...


If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M

Agency SB bold is an EXACT match to the hallicrafters font used in thier literature and on the front of my HT-32A.

Knobtwiddler

knobtwiddler November 27th 09 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by --exray-- (Post 27568)
Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...


If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M

Agency SB bold is an EXACT match to the hallicrafters font used in thier literature and on the front of my HT-32A.

Comes with Windows XP Pro

Knobtwiddler

knobtwiddler November 27th 09 01:59 AM

OOPS “Agency FB” is the EXACT match to the hallicrafters font.

NOT Agency SB

knobtwiddler

Quote:

Originally Posted by --exray-- (Post 27568)
Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...


If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M

OOPS “Agency FB” is the EXACT match to the hallicrafters font.

NOT Agency SB

knobtwiddler


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