Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Pete,
The picture was worth 1000 words. If you're going to keep this for your own collection and re-sale is not an issue (at least at this point), I'd say go to your local automotive paint emporium and have a small batch of paint made up. RCarefully refinishing that small area is not at all like trying to do the whole panel. Any reasonable collector (myself included) would appreciate and necessary repair like you'd be doing. Unlike pieces of vintage art, etc. vintage electronics aren't value-destroyed by well-made repairs. That's why I'd say do just the small area that's necesssary. Regarding remarking, if you can match the size and font... have at it! Although nice to use, standard DATAK dry transfers are all too obvious. Sometimes a complete refinish is indicated, e.g.: a rusted out Halli. R-48. I had some decals made up for several of those speakers and did a complete strip, pickle, and repaint. Yeah, they're acceptable but I know the truth... so to speak, but they're far better than they were. Regards and good fortune with the project. de Jeep/K3HVG |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
FT-8900--How to Remove Remote Front Panel? | Equipment | |||
WTB: TM-732A Front Panel | Swap | |||
WTB- front panel (faceplate) for National NC-270 receiver | Boatanchors | |||
WTB- front panel (faceplate) for National NC-270 | Boatanchors | |||
Repairing hole in front panel | Boatanchors |