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Scott Unit 69 July 21st 03 02:22 AM

I just get a slightly larger screw.
Wood screws have a nice pitch to them. Bite real nice.

Scott Unit 69 July 21st 03 02:22 AM

I just get a slightly larger screw.
Wood screws have a nice pitch to them. Bite real nice.

WZ1U July 21st 03 02:43 AM

I work at a sheetmetal shop and use 2 very common fasteners....The
Pemnut which somone metioned and works excellent and the Rivnut which
you can lookup here http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/
Either one will solve your problem if you go that route......WZ1U


On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:09 GMT, "Joel" wrote:

I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited
success with copper braid in the hole, but it's not permanent, and I hate
the thought of fine copper pieces floating around in the equipment. I was
more thinking of maybe something to fill the hold and then re-tap it. I
could re-tap the hold bigger but then it would look out of place and have to
re-tap them all. Mostly this is a cabinet where on piece of metal overlaps
the other and the back piece is taped.

Anyone have any words of wisdom?

Joe AG4QC



WZ1U July 21st 03 02:43 AM

I work at a sheetmetal shop and use 2 very common fasteners....The
Pemnut which somone metioned and works excellent and the Rivnut which
you can lookup here http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/
Either one will solve your problem if you go that route......WZ1U


On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:09 GMT, "Joel" wrote:

I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited
success with copper braid in the hole, but it's not permanent, and I hate
the thought of fine copper pieces floating around in the equipment. I was
more thinking of maybe something to fill the hold and then re-tap it. I
could re-tap the hold bigger but then it would look out of place and have to
re-tap them all. Mostly this is a cabinet where on piece of metal overlaps
the other and the back piece is taped.

Anyone have any words of wisdom?

Joe AG4QC



Bob M. July 21st 03 03:02 AM

In a hardware store's nuts & bolts section you'll probably find these in the
slide-out drawers. I know what you're thinking about but can't think of
what they're really called. Those drawers are nice because they have
pictures on them. (advanced hardware stores actually hotglue one onto the
front of the drawer.)

I doubt helicoils would work on sheet steel either.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the
cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the

answer.
But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of
metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something

like
that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called...

.
"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message
...
Anyone have any words of wisdom?

The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil.


Joel & Max-

I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a

search on
HeliCoil and came up with:

http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html

and

http://www.ezlok.com/

Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a

distributor,
but
that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I

would
start
by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of

HeliCoil
or EZ Lok.

These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of

metal.
There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard

and
other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed

into a
hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the

repair
industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it.

73, Fred, K4DII






Bob M. July 21st 03 03:02 AM

In a hardware store's nuts & bolts section you'll probably find these in the
slide-out drawers. I know what you're thinking about but can't think of
what they're really called. Those drawers are nice because they have
pictures on them. (advanced hardware stores actually hotglue one onto the
front of the drawer.)

I doubt helicoils would work on sheet steel either.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the
cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the

answer.
But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of
metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something

like
that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called...

.
"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message
...
Anyone have any words of wisdom?

The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil.


Joel & Max-

I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a

search on
HeliCoil and came up with:

http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html

and

http://www.ezlok.com/

Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a

distributor,
but
that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I

would
start
by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of

HeliCoil
or EZ Lok.

These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of

metal.
There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard

and
other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed

into a
hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the

repair
industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it.

73, Fred, K4DII






Joel July 21st 03 03:53 AM

Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great
suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your

suggesting.
That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as
the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a
short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really
looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's
just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like

new,
I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug

Joel - AG4QC


"Michael" wrote in message
. ca...
"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had

limited

I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that

I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just

a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the

entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX







Joel July 21st 03 03:53 AM

Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great
suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your

suggesting.
That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as
the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a
short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really
looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's
just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like

new,
I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug

Joel - AG4QC


"Michael" wrote in message
. ca...
"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had

limited

I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that

I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just

a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the

entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX







Phil Kane July 21st 03 05:06 AM

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote:

Hello Joel

Anyone have any words of wisdom?


The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil.


I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ??

Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may
only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most.

Lock-Tite may be the best answer.

--
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane



Phil Kane July 21st 03 05:06 AM

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote:

Hello Joel

Anyone have any words of wisdom?


The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil.


I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ??

Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may
only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most.

Lock-Tite may be the best answer.

--
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane




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