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Old July 21st 03, 03:22 AM
Scott Unit 69
 
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I just get a slightly larger screw.
Wood screws have a nice pitch to them. Bite real nice.
  #2   Report Post  
Old July 21st 03, 03:43 AM
WZ1U
 
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I work at a sheetmetal shop and use 2 very common fasteners....The
Pemnut which somone metioned and works excellent and the Rivnut which
you can lookup here http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/
Either one will solve your problem if you go that route......WZ1U


On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:09 GMT, "Joel" wrote:

I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited
success with copper braid in the hole, but it's not permanent, and I hate
the thought of fine copper pieces floating around in the equipment. I was
more thinking of maybe something to fill the hold and then re-tap it. I
could re-tap the hold bigger but then it would look out of place and have to
re-tap them all. Mostly this is a cabinet where on piece of metal overlaps
the other and the back piece is taped.

Anyone have any words of wisdom?

Joe AG4QC


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Old July 21st 03, 04:53 AM
Joel
 
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Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great
suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your

suggesting.
That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as
the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a
short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really
looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's
just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like

new,
I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug

Joel - AG4QC


"Michael" wrote in message
. ca...
"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had

limited

I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that

I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just

a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the

entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX






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Old July 25th 03, 12:00 AM
Sylvan Butler
 
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On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great


I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal
behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of
roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure
there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength.

I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest
as the time and usually epoxy is it.

sdb

--
| Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com |
| Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ |
It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral
busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his
cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our
own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval
of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis
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Old July 25th 03, 12:00 AM
Sylvan Butler
 
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On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great


I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal
behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of
roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure
there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength.

I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest
as the time and usually epoxy is it.

sdb

--
| Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com |
| Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ |
It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral
busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his
cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our
own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval
of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis


  #6   Report Post  
Old July 21st 03, 04:53 AM
Joel
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great
suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your

suggesting.
That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as
the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a
short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really
looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's
just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like

new,
I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug

Joel - AG4QC


"Michael" wrote in message
. ca...
"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had

limited

I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that

I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just

a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the

entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX






  #7   Report Post  
Old July 21st 03, 03:12 AM
Michael
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited


I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX


  #8   Report Post  
Old July 21st 03, 03:12 AM
Michael
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if

anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited


I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX


  #9   Report Post  
Old July 25th 03, 10:16 PM
Paul Ryan
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See:
http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm

--
73, Paul (N0KIA)


Alan P. Biddle wrote:

Joe,

Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there
is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an
isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push
one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the
excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out,
though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you
want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws
as well.



--
Alan
WA4SCA


  #10   Report Post  
Old July 25th 03, 10:16 PM
Paul Ryan
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See:
http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm

--
73, Paul (N0KIA)


Alan P. Biddle wrote:

Joe,

Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there
is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an
isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push
one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the
excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out,
though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you
want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws
as well.



--
Alan
WA4SCA




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