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Loosening coil slugs in tube-type CB radio?
I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era, the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying to force them. 73, Dean K5DH |
#2
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K5DH wrote:
I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio. As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era, the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying to force them. 73, Dean K5DH Usually a drop of solvent will loosen them. If the coil forms are plastic it might be a problem, but you can test the solvent on the end of the form first. -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/ Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/ Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/ -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
#4
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Frank Gilliland wrote:
In , (K5DH) wrote: I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio. As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era, the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying to force them. 73, Dean K5DH You didn't mention whether it's a hollow core (hex) or a slotted top. If it's a hollow core, many of those older radios used long slugs. If that's the case, you can usually break them loose without a problem by using a long hex wrench or "diddle stick" to contact as much of the slug as possible. Just make sure you have the correct size wrench (a tight fit). If it's a short or slotted slug, you will probably need a solvent. As far as solvents go, alcohol doesn't usually work, and acetone doesn't penetrate. Try a drop or two of toluene and let it soak in for a while. It will be gummy, and might even be worse than breaking it loose when it's dry, but it won't hurt the coil form. Just remember to measure the slug before you try anything so you can replace it if it breaks. -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- My experience has been that the "hex" hole slugs that stick are broken and the only hope is the pick out the pieces and put in a new one. Good luck Bill K7NOM |
#5
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K5DH wrote:
I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio. As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era, the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying to force them. 73, Dean K5DH I've always had good luck by heating the slug with a soldering iron tip, set on low heat. The "gliptall" will usually melt before the coil form does, but be careful just the same. Dave "Sandbagger" |
#6
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K5DH wrote:
I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio. As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era, the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying to force them. 73, Dean K5DH I've always had good luck by heating the slug with a soldering iron tip, set on low heat. The "gliptall" will usually melt before the coil form does, but be careful just the same. Dave "Sandbagger" |
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