Hi,

Good info, just like to add this tip:

Most cars the hood release cable runs past the battery on the way to the
hood latch up front.

You can run your cables along the same route, throught the firewall
with the hood release cable.

73

that is what i did i poked a hole in that boot and stuffed the cables
theu and fished them to the battery staying away from things that would
get hot

JLB wrote:
Well, he also mentioned the possibility of poking a hole in the steering
column boot. That may not be too bad, as there seems to be a lot of room
there.

that is what i did i poked a hole in that boot and stuffed the cables
theu and fished them to the battery staying away from things that would
get hot

JLB wrote:
Well, he also mentioned the possibility of poking a hole in the steering
column boot. That may not be too bad, as there seems to be a lot of room
there.

"Dennis Kaylor" wrote in message
om...
that is what i did i poked a hole in that boot and stuffed the cables
theu and fished them to the battery staying away from things that would
get hot

JLB wrote:
Well, he also mentioned the possibility of poking a hole in the steering
column boot. That may not be too bad, as there seems to be a lot of
room
there.

I did the same thing in my new Ford Explorer ... I first carefully scoped
out BOTH sides of the boot, looking for "interference" issues, then I took a
long, thick needle (a test pick/probe with about 3" of needle in about 5" of
nylon handle) and carefully poked it through the boot in the target area to
double check.

When all looked good, I removed the needle and used a sharp xacto knife to
make an X cut, through which I pushed the red/black #10 "zip-cord" power
cable (I used cable I bought from PowerEx along with some Andersen
"PowerPole" connectors).

Some sealant (non-corrosive - don't use the "RTV" stuff that smells like
vinegar - it contains acetic acid) was then applied carefully around both
sides and the cable was fitted with the split, "corrugated" plastic cable
sleeving that you can buy at most auto parts stores.

Remember to fuse BOTH pos and neg leads AT THE BATTERY with suitable fuses
(PowerEx has fuse holders for the new automotive type fuses). You want to
be SURE that the leads between the battery connection and the fuse holders
are short enough and anchored well enough that no matter what you can't get
a short from the positive lead to ground - otherwise, major fireworks could
occur.

Good luck.

73,
Carl - wk3c

"Dennis Kaylor" wrote in message
om...
that is what i did i poked a hole in that boot and stuffed the cables
theu and fished them to the battery staying away from things that would
get hot

JLB wrote:
Well, he also mentioned the possibility of poking a hole in the steering
column boot. That may not be too bad, as there seems to be a lot of
room
there.

I did the same thing in my new Ford Explorer ... I first carefully scoped
out BOTH sides of the boot, looking for "interference" issues, then I took a
long, thick needle (a test pick/probe with about 3" of needle in about 5" of
nylon handle) and carefully poked it through the boot in the target area to
double check.

When all looked good, I removed the needle and used a sharp xacto knife to
make an X cut, through which I pushed the red/black #10 "zip-cord" power
cable (I used cable I bought from PowerEx along with some Andersen
"PowerPole" connectors).

Some sealant (non-corrosive - don't use the "RTV" stuff that smells like
vinegar - it contains acetic acid) was then applied carefully around both
sides and the cable was fitted with the split, "corrugated" plastic cable
sleeving that you can buy at most auto parts stores.

Remember to fuse BOTH pos and neg leads AT THE BATTERY with suitable fuses
(PowerEx has fuse holders for the new automotive type fuses). You want to
be SURE that the leads between the battery connection and the fuse holders
are short enough and anchored well enough that no matter what you can't get
a short from the positive lead to ground - otherwise, major fireworks could
occur.

Good luck.

73,
Carl - wk3c