Need quiet 6V wall wart for Icom R10 receiver/scanner
 

Switching wall warts I have tried introduce a loud "hash" that
completely hides weak signals; transformer wall warts I have tried
introduce an annoying buzz -- most likely 60 cycles.

Can anyone recommend a 400 ma wall wart with cleaner output?

Failing that, How about a simple, physically small circuit to clean up
a typical wall wart's noisy output?

Ken KC2JDY


Ken
(to reply via email
remove "zz" from address)

"Ken" wrote in message
...
Switching wall warts I have tried introduce a loud "hash" that
completely hides weak signals; transformer wall warts I have tried
introduce an annoying buzz -- most likely 60 cycles.

Can anyone recommend a 400 ma wall wart with cleaner output?

Failing that, How about a simple, physically small circuit to clean up
a typical wall wart's noisy output?

Ken KC2JDY


Ken
(to reply via email
remove "zz" from address)

These are pretty well filtered.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=273%2D1667

"Ken" wrote in message
...
Switching wall warts I have tried introduce a loud "hash" that
completely hides weak signals; transformer wall warts I have tried
introduce an annoying buzz -- most likely 60 cycles.

Can anyone recommend a 400 ma wall wart with cleaner output?

Failing that, How about a simple, physically small circuit to clean up
a typical wall wart's noisy output?

Ken KC2JDY


Ken
(to reply via email
remove "zz" from address)

These are pretty well filtered.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=273%2D1667

"Ken" wrote in message
...
Switching wall warts I have tried introduce a loud "hash" that
completely hides weak signals; transformer wall warts I have tried
introduce an annoying buzz -- most likely 60 cycles.

Can anyone recommend a 400 ma wall wart with cleaner output?

Failing that, How about a simple, physically small circuit to clean up
a typical wall wart's noisy output?

Ken KC2JDY


Ken
(to reply via email
remove "zz" from address)

These are pretty well filtered.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=273%2D1667

Ken,

How about just wiring up a plug to your present13.8 Volt
DC power supply, assuming you have one. Alternatively, you could fix
the wall wart, which may be one that puts out AC. If so, you could
rectify it with some diodes, filter it with about a 1000 microfarad at
16 volt electrolytic capacitor, and use a LM7812 3 pin regulator, which
would hold the output voltage to 12VDC. A LM7812 in a TO-220 case is
good for over 1 amp current draw, and so would be fine for your Icom.

This has the benefit of being cheap, easy, and being a learning
experience. Give me a shout if you need a schematic or a physical
diagram of what I am talking about. The whole thing would take 15
minutes and maybe five bucks for parts, tax included.

Ken,

How about just wiring up a plug to your present13.8 Volt
DC power supply, assuming you have one. Alternatively, you could fix
the wall wart, which may be one that puts out AC. If so, you could
rectify it with some diodes, filter it with about a 1000 microfarad at
16 volt electrolytic capacitor, and use a LM7812 3 pin regulator, which
would hold the output voltage to 12VDC. A LM7812 in a TO-220 case is
good for over 1 amp current draw, and so would be fine for your Icom.

This has the benefit of being cheap, easy, and being a learning
experience. Give me a shout if you need a schematic or a physical
diagram of what I am talking about. The whole thing would take 15
minutes and maybe five bucks for parts, tax included.

Ken,

How about just wiring up a plug to your present13.8 Volt
DC power supply, assuming you have one. Alternatively, you could fix
the wall wart, which may be one that puts out AC. If so, you could
rectify it with some diodes, filter it with about a 1000 microfarad at
16 volt electrolytic capacitor, and use a LM7812 3 pin regulator, which
would hold the output voltage to 12VDC. A LM7812 in a TO-220 case is
good for over 1 amp current draw, and so would be fine for your Icom.

This has the benefit of being cheap, easy, and being a learning
experience. Give me a shout if you need a schematic or a physical
diagram of what I am talking about. The whole thing would take 15
minutes and maybe five bucks for parts, tax included.

OOPS...didnt see the part about it needing to be a 6 volt adapter. In
that case you change from a LM7812 chip to an LM317, which is a
variable regulator. Might add 1 buck to the cost, cuz you need a
potentiometer to set the output voltage from the LM317.

You can run a 2 conductor wire off a 13.8 v. power supply and use the
'317 to lower the output to 6 volts on a line just to your Icom.

This aint rocket science, easier to do than changing a tire, and way
more interesting.

OOPS...didnt see the part about it needing to be a 6 volt adapter. In
that case you change from a LM7812 chip to an LM317, which is a
variable regulator. Might add 1 buck to the cost, cuz you need a
potentiometer to set the output voltage from the LM317.

You can run a 2 conductor wire off a 13.8 v. power supply and use the
'317 to lower the output to 6 volts on a line just to your Icom.

This aint rocket science, easier to do than changing a tire, and way
more interesting.

OOPS...didnt see the part about it needing to be a 6 volt adapter. In
that case you change from a LM7812 chip to an LM317, which is a
variable regulator. Might add 1 buck to the cost, cuz you need a
potentiometer to set the output voltage from the LM317.

You can run a 2 conductor wire off a 13.8 v. power supply and use the
'317 to lower the output to 6 volts on a line just to your Icom.

This aint rocket science, easier to do than changing a tire, and way
more interesting.