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Best Ways to *Waterproof* Coax Connections
I use self vulcanizing plumbers tape (peel off the white strip stuff that
sticks to itself permanently when you overlap it) and one or two black cable ties at the finishing end. (to hold it until the chemistry bonds them at the molecular level - time depends on temperature) when applied to clean surfaces, and you wrap 'up' so dripping water rolls over the seams and not into them, it's leak-proof. ¡Ciao! |
In message , John Soto
writes I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40. Will last for ever. Ian. -- |
Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40. Will last for ever. Ian. Ian, Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ? Isn't oil an insulator ? And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun. Nick |
In message , Nick
Smith writes Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40. Will last for ever. Ian. Ian, Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ? Isn't oil an insulator ? And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun. Nick Nick, I can't say I've noticed any tendency for WD40 to insulate the contacting surfaces of connectors (not that I do this very often). There should normally be sufficient pressure for the contacts to punch through the oily layer. I reckon that WD40 will be similar to 'Lectrolube' and similar switch cleaner-lubricants which leave a lubricating layer. Maybe switch cleaner could be used instead of WD40, but it must be lubricating, and not just cleaning. However, I did once have a problem with the points in the ignition circuit in a car. I put a little too much grease on the cam, and it eventually worked its way along to the actual contacts. It proved a surprisingly effective insulator! As for the effects of sunlight on self-amalgamating tape... Again, I haven't noticed any obvious deterioration, but the '.co.uk' part of my e-mail address may offer some explanation! I wouldn't use PVC tape to overwrap it - PVC always comes adrift eventually. The old-fashioned black fabric-based electricians' tape would probably be OK, provided you secure the end with superglue (another sovereign remedy). Cheers, Ian. -- |
Hi Ian,
Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ? Isn't oil an insulator ? And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun. Nick Nick, I can't say I've noticed any tendency for WD40 to insulate the contacting surfaces of connectors (not that I do this very often). There should normally be sufficient pressure for the contacts to punch through the oily layer. I reckon that WD40 will be similar to 'Lectrolube' and similar switch cleaner-lubricants which leave a lubricating layer. Maybe switch cleaner could be used instead of WD40, but it must be lubricating, and not just cleaning. However, I did once have a problem with the points in the ignition circuit in a car. I put a little too much grease on the cam, and it eventually worked its way along to the actual contacts. It proved a surprisingly effective insulator! As for the effects of sunlight on self-amalgamating tape... Again, I haven't noticed any obvious deterioration, but the '.co.uk' part of my e-mail address may offer some explanation! I wouldn't use PVC tape to overwrap it - PVC always comes adrift eventually. The old-fashioned black fabric-based electricians' tape would probably be OK, provided you secure the end with superglue (another sovereign remedy). Cheers, Ian. I am fairly certain I saw the S.A. tape tip in RadCom a while back, also "PVC cables when hot" being a hazard to bare skin.. and I cant bring myself to lubricate fixed contacts before sealing up. Like car battery terminal posts being smeared with vaseline before fitting the clamps - just cant do it ! Probably being paranoid here ! Thanks for the reply though Nick |
Best is to use a good quality compression connector such as LRC snap n seal.
If these connectors are installed properly, the only target for water intrusion is the threads. If you put a small dab of silicone grease on the threads of the female portion of the connection before screwing on the connector (make sure it's on the threads, not the center conductor), no other water proofing is needed. We did an experiment at the cable company I worked at when snap n seal connectors were first introduced. We sealed all four connectors on a tap as above and put the tap in the bottom of a trash barrell under three feet of water. After three months under water, there was no sign of water intrusion. |
On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 19:23:33 -0500, John Soto
wrote: I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately. I originally went with RG-11 and found it too unwieldy and went back to RG-6. You have plenty of signal so unless the cables are *really* long it's not a problem. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease DC-4 or DC-5 compound works well when used sparingly and *only* at the one end of the cable. The problem with using silicon grease is getting anything to stick afterwards. You have to be very careful with the stuff. As others have mentioned, coax seal (tm), or the electrical putty, and liquid electrical tape all work well as does the flooded heat shrink tubing. The latter makes the neatest and most mechanically sound connection, but you don't want to put too much stress on that "F" connector on the LNB. The RG-11 was putting far too much stress on mine. I have both the DISH Network and C-Band satellite reception and found even with 200 foot runs to both the big and little dishes the RG-6 was preferable, at least in my situation. sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I prefer simple is better. (on the LNB I just give the F connectors and cable a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape and a little dab of DC-4 compound inside) Nor do I use Scotch 88 tape. I have problems with it in both high temperature and low temperature extremes. In most cases I've found the "cheap" stuff worked better over a wider range, but you have to try it first as the quality may vary widely. One other point, I never flood the connectors in a splice. Only at the far outside end do I flood the connector. Splices get only the flooded heat shrink tubing. When shrunk it has a wall thickness about twice to three times the thickness of the RG-11 jacket. The flooding compound thoroughly seals the outside of the cable and connectors from the elements with no additional wrapping. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com |
On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 13:15:11 -0000, "Nick Smith"
wrote: Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40. Will last for ever. Ian. Ian, Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ? Isn't oil an insulator ? Sure it is, but that has little to do with the application. WD-40 also works well on moving switch contacts. I'd not recommend it in a band switch though as getting in the pader caps would be a disaster. Remember in a switch the pressure "wipes" the surface. In the case of the connector the pressure of a well tightened connector will press out any oil giving a good contact. Unfortunately it also provides some lubrication making for the possibility of over tightening the connector. I've stripped the threads right out of PL259s and N connectors when I managed to get some silicon grease on the threads. And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun. Too complicated a way to go. I don't get that elaborate on high power UHF and VHF connections. Simple, liquid electrical tape is as good as any as long as the surface is dry so it can stick. It forms a very tough film that lasts a long time even in direct sunlight. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com Nick |
I have some liquid tape and it is very good for this kind of thing, too.
Also you may want to look for Caltex CopperKote - a copper loaded grease if you can't stand the thought of putting vaseline or similar on the plugs first. I also use it on battery posts. It is used commercially by the power companies when they string up supply lines. The tiny copper flakes cut thru and make contact. Cheers. Murray vk4aok Roger Halstead wrote: On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 13:15:11 -0000, "Nick Smith" wrote: Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40. Will last for ever. Ian. Ian, Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ? Isn't oil an insulator ? Sure it is, but that has little to do with the application. WD-40 also works well on moving switch contacts. I'd not recommend it in a band switch though as getting in the pader caps would be a disaster. Remember in a switch the pressure "wipes" the surface. In the case of the connector the pressure of a well tightened connector will press out any oil giving a good contact. Unfortunately it also provides some lubrication making for the possibility of over tightening the connector. I've stripped the threads right out of PL259s and N connectors when I managed to get some silicon grease on the threads. And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun. Too complicated a way to go. I don't get that elaborate on high power UHF and VHF connections. Simple, liquid electrical tape is as good as any as long as the surface is dry so it can stick. It forms a very tough film that lasts a long time even in direct sunlight. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com Nick -- **************************** Murray Kelly vk4aok 6 Spyglass Place, Oxley, QLD. 4075. Australia ph/fax Intl+ 61 7 3879 7968 **************************** |
In article ,
Steve Silverwood wrote: We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape. a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently. Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which
worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape. a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently. Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch. I'll just stick to Coax-Seal (tm) http://www.coaxseal.com/ |
In message , Tom writes
"Radioman" wrote in message ... We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape. a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently. Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch. I'll just stick to Coax-Seal (tm) http://www.coaxseal.com/ Same here. I've been using Coax-Seal for years now. I have yet to find anything better or easier to work with. When I do have occasion to take the connectors apart the sealant can take some minutes to remove, but the connections look just as clean as the day I put them up. I would suggest one thing. When storing Coax Seal in the shack, especially after you have opened and used part of it, be sure to store the remainder in an airtight container of some sort. If you don't, it has a tendency to dry out and lose it's elasticity. (this takes a couple of years, so don't be alarmed) I store the unused portion in a simple zip lock sandwhich bag that I press the air out of before zipping it closed. Tom, From the pictures on the website, 'Coax-Seal' looks exactly like ordinary self-amalgamating tape (as I know it). The cut-away picture shows that it does not actually bond to the plastic outer of the coax, which enables you to open up the connection in the future. However, I would still prefer to give the parts a spray of WD40 before the connections are made, make the connection, spray again to ensure that the threads are wetted, wipe off the obvious surplus (but not trying too hard, so there are still traces left). You then apply the tape, stretching it somewhat as you go, ensuring that you keep a nice, even tension. You end up with a tight-fitting, waterproof rubber boot around the joint, with the WD40 trapped inside to resist any tendency to corrode. I think the only argument is whether to use WD40 or not. Ian. -- |
"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message ... In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and look Okay! K7DUP |
Ian Jackson wrote:
From the pictures on the website, 'Coax-Seal' looks exactly like ordinary self-amalgamating tape (as I know it). They are quite different. Self-amalgamating tape is a strong, stretchable tape. 'Coax-Seal' is a form of mouldable putty which just happens to be supplied as a rolled-up strip, but it has no strength as a 'tape'. The cut-away picture shows that it does not actually bond to the plastic outer of the coax, which enables you to open up the connection in the future. Coax-Seal does bond to the plastic jacket, and also to metal - in both cases, well enough to form a good waterproof seal... but if you use it like the illustration in the ads, you'll have a real mess that is very difficult to remove from the metal parts. Self-amalgamating tape is much better in that respect, because it can be cut and peeled off to leave clean surfaces. For round shapes that are simple to wrap - like in-line plugs and jacks - it's best to use only self-amalgamating tape. But for shapes like bulkhead connectors you can't wrap tape tightly down onto the flange, so water can seep upward into the connector. The really useful feature is that Coax-Seal will bond to self-amalgamating tape! That feature lets you use the best possible combination of the two methods. For a cable plug and a bulkhead socket, mould some Coax-Seal around the base of the socket and a short way up the round part - but don't cover the whole connector. Then wrap self-amalgamating tape down over the cable and plug, and onto the Coax-Seal. That gives a very good seal indeed, and you can cut the tape away at any time to find the metal parts clean, bright and dry. I've used these methods for many years on large yagi arrays with many coax connections, and they do keep the connections totally waterproof. However, I would still prefer to give the parts a spray of WD40 before the connections are made, make the connection, spray again to ensure that the threads are wetted, wipe off the obvious surplus (but not trying too hard, so there are still traces left). You then apply the tape, stretching it somewhat as you go, ensuring that you keep a nice, even tension. You end up with a tight-fitting, waterproof rubber boot around the joint, with the WD40 trapped inside to resist any tendency to corrode. I think the only argument is whether to use WD40 or not. If the waterproofing works - and it certainly can - then there won't *be* any tendency to corrosion. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote: "Steve Silverwood" wrote in message ... In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and look Okay! When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves) Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com K7DUP |
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message ... On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt" wrote: "Steve Silverwood" wrote in message ... In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and look Okay! When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves) Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks! K7DUP |
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:43:48 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote: "Roger Halstead" wrote in message .. . On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt" wrote: "Steve Silverwood" wrote in message ... In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and look Okay! When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves) Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com The stuff is made by 3M in two sizes that I've seen 800 IMCSN .80"/.22" 20/5.6 mm and .400 IMCSN .40"/.12" 10/3.1 mm It's a tad over a dollar a foot. Also Times wire packages a piece with their N connectors. I have some photos of both sizes of tubing as well as the connector and I have one splice that has been taken apart. I cut the splice out of the line as I though there was a problem with it, which there was, but it was the last thing I expected. It turns out the barrel connector had shorted and the other connectors were still good, or would have been if I hadn't cut them out. I'll try and get some shots up on my web page Monday or tuesday. My home page is www.rogerhalstead.com and the URL for the coax splices and heat shrink tubing *will* be http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm when it goes up. As it's past 3:00 AM, I have to create the page, resize the images and then ftp it up to the server, I think it's gonna wait. To top it off I have to spend most of tomorrow (Monday) out at the airport, finishing up a demolition project and then cleaning up... soooo, if my memory holds that long, I'll try and get the page up Monday evening. OK, I did get the page up, but only small images. Links to larger 800 X 600 images this evening. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks! K7DUP |
"Roger Halstead" wrote in message ... You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. Roger, Would you be so kind as to provide a source/brand name for the glue-lined heat shrink tubing you mention above? 73, Carl - wk3c |
Gentlemen,
As a long time experimentor I have used all of the suggestions given in this thread. But science has moved on. 'Plastic dip' is now made in spray form so I use that instead of the semi liguid stuff supplied in cans which I also use for encapsulating. The spray form puts a thin film over the joints which can readily be peeled off when reworking the joint. The sprayed plastic dip also shrinks somewhat after application. Cost is around $6 per can of either form in any hardware store. Regards Art Roger Halstead wrote in message . .. On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:43:48 GMT, "Roger Gt" wrote: "Roger Halstead" wrote in message .. . On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt" wrote: "Steve Silverwood" wrote in message ... In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and look Okay! When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves) Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com The stuff is made by 3M in two sizes that I've seen 800 IMCSN .80"/.22" 20/5.6 mm and .400 IMCSN .40"/.12" 10/3.1 mm It's a tad over a dollar a foot. Also Times wire packages a piece with their N connectors. I have some photos of both sizes of tubing as well as the connector and I have one splice that has been taken apart. I cut the splice out of the line as I though there was a problem with it, which there was, but it was the last thing I expected. It turns out the barrel connector had shorted and the other connectors were still good, or would have been if I hadn't cut them out. I'll try and get some shots up on my web page Monday or tuesday. My home page is www.rogerhalstead.com and the URL for the coax splices and heat shrink tubing *will* be http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm when it goes up. As it's past 3:00 AM, I have to create the page, resize the images and then ftp it up to the server, I think it's gonna wait. To top it off I have to spend most of tomorrow (Monday) out at the airport, finishing up a demolition project and then cleaning up... soooo, if my memory holds that long, I'll try and get the page up Monday evening. OK, I did get the page up, but only small images. Links to larger 800 X 600 images this evening. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks! K7DUP |
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:14:20 -0000, "Carl R. Stevenson"
wrote: "Roger Halstead" wrote in message .. . You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. Roger, Would you be so kind as to provide a source/brand name for the glue-lined heat shrink tubing you mention above? It's made by 3M and sold by many electrical supply firms. The first photo in the link below shows the two types they offer. The numbers are 800 which is 0.800/0.22", or 20/5/6 mm. The first number is the diameter "un shrunk" while the second is the smallest working shrunk diameter. They also make a 400 which is 0.400/.12", or 10/3.1 mm tube. These are coated internally with something akin to, or it really is, hot melt glue. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm The price has gone up some, but I think the last I purchased was a bit over $10 for a 3 foot length of the 800. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com 73, Carl - wk3c |
why would you be using RG-11? much bigger than RG-6 and will be hard
to terminate... On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:59:54 GMT, Roger Halstead wrote: On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:14:20 -0000, "Carl R. Stevenson" wrote: "Roger Halstead" wrote in message . .. You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. Roger, Would you be so kind as to provide a source/brand name for the glue-lined heat shrink tubing you mention above? It's made by 3M and sold by many electrical supply firms. The first photo in the link below shows the two types they offer. The numbers are 800 which is 0.800/0.22", or 20/5/6 mm. The first number is the diameter "un shrunk" while the second is the smallest working shrunk diameter. They also make a 400 which is 0.400/.12", or 10/3.1 mm tube. These are coated internally with something akin to, or it really is, hot melt glue. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm The price has gone up some, but I think the last I purchased was a bit over $10 for a 3 foot length of the 800. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com 73, Carl - wk3c |
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:40:51 -0600, iF yoU Cee Kay
wrote: why would you be using RG-11? much bigger than RG-6 and will be hard to terminate... I'm not. Like you I suggested RG11 might be a bit large. I tried it here and replaced it with RG-6 for the satellite feed lines for both the small dish and C-band. I found it placed too much stress on the LNBs. However terminating the RG-11 is easy as they make a connector that slips right on the cable and has an F connector on the other end. They are more of a "press on" rather than crimp. Work very well. OTOH they do nothing to relieve the stress imparted to the LNB connector by the large cable. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:59:54 GMT, Roger Halstead wrote: On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:14:20 -0000, "Carl R. Stevenson" wrote: "Roger Halstead" wrote in message ... You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside. When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the stuff you get at radio shack. Roger, Would you be so kind as to provide a source/brand name for the glue-lined heat shrink tubing you mention above? It's made by 3M and sold by many electrical supply firms. The first photo in the link below shows the two types they offer. The numbers are 800 which is 0.800/0.22", or 20/5/6 mm. The first number is the diameter "un shrunk" while the second is the smallest working shrunk diameter. They also make a 400 which is 0.400/.12", or 10/3.1 mm tube. These are coated internally with something akin to, or it really is, hot melt glue. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm The price has gone up some, but I think the last I purchased was a bit over $10 for a 3 foot length of the 800. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?) www.rogerhalstead.com 73, Carl - wk3c |
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Steve Silverwood wrote: In article , endor37@skip- the-spam.hotmail.com says... I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately. I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then a coat of Skotchcoat. We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape. You wrap up the connector like you would with electrical tape, only stretching the tape a bit as you go. What happens is the tape molds itself together around the connector and provides a very water-tight seal around the whole tape job. Not sure if it's available on the civilian market but if so it's a great item to have handy. It is made by Pirelli too with a different name. We use it for coax and for electrical. The connections for sleave pumps 80m down into a well (= under water) perform - just well ;-) Never had a coax soaked using this method for over 10 years. Kind regards, Eike |
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