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Old August 28th 07, 06:05 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.

Good day all!
I've been having some problems with my 820s. It was fine for several
years and then I had a flashover in the finals. This may have been due
to a faulty ground on a "UHF" coax connector.
Have replaced the finals with 12 volt 6146B's (putting the heaters in
parallel of course). However although it now works, its effeciency is
damned awful. When it is loaded up to give 60 watts RF into a dummy load
the dissappation in 6146 anodes makes then glow cherry red!!!
Now my info tells me that the 6146B is rated at 30 watts anode
dissappation per tube (total 60 watts) so based on my 50 odd years of
electronics wouldn't expect a red hot anode at anything like the
theoretical 66% efficiency.
Yes, I have replaced the anode coupling cap (with an appropriate 3Kv rf
type) checked all the tube voltages set up the neutralisation and tried
the rig on all bands to ensure that the padding caps are OK. Same result!
My thinking is that my 6146B's may be in poor condition. Unfortunately
My old Heath valve tester does not do a very good job on big power
valves so although it says they are OK I don't really trust it.
So far I can't locate any parasitics up to about 120 MHz either.
Anyone had a similar problem? I am getting so fed up with it that I'm
thinking of running with 1x6146 and building a small linear amp
~400watts to drive the antennas.
Regards Cliff Wright ZL1BDA ex G3NIA.
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Old August 28th 07, 10:42 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.

Hello,


On 28 Ago, 07:05, cliff wright wrote:
Good day all!
I've been having some problems with my 820s. It was fine for several
years and then I had a flashover in the finals. This may have been due
to a faulty ground on a "UHF" coax connector.
Have replaced the finals with 12 volt 6146B's (putting the heaters in


what exactly are "12 volt 6146B's" ?
6146B have 6.3V heater. What tube are you using exactly?

73
Francesco IZ8DWF

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Old August 28th 07, 11:16 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.

On 28 Ago, 11:59, (Geoffrey S. Mendelson) wrote:
wrote:
what exactly are "12 volt 6146B's" ?
6146B have 6.3V heater. What tube are you using exactly?


There were several variants with different heater voltages. I once
bought a bunch of them cheaply at a hamfest. If you were building
your own rig and could set the heater voltage, they were well worth
the price.


yes, I remember, but afair they had different "names", surely not
marked as 6146B.

73
Francesco IZ8DWF

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Old August 30th 07, 07:09 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.

Roger (K8RI) wrote:

6146W IIRC


No. They are ruggedized versions of 6146A's. Still have the same heater
voltage (6.3) as regular ones. Note that they are NOT the same as 6146B's
however in a TS-820, it may not be noticable.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at
http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/
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Old August 28th 07, 02:13 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.

On 28 Ago, 13:11, cliff wright wrote:
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:


The tubes in Question are a pair of 6883B's. According to all my data
they are identical to the 6146B except for a nominally 12.6 volt
heater rating, and a tiny increase in interelectrode capacity (about
1%). They were often used in high power (~60 watt) HF "bush" radio
telephones in NZ until recently, both in SSB and AM modes.
So they are relatively common here.
I pulled the covers off the final to check after your posting.
Since the 820S actually runs the 6146B heaters in series from 12.6 volts
there should be absolutely NO reason why they couldn't do the job with a
simple heater rewire from series to parallel.
They are physically identical to a 6146B externally.


Indeed the 6883B is like a 6146B with different heater voltage. Then
either these tubes are bad or you have another problem on your radio.
Check antenna TX/RX relay and antenna socket connector. I had an
FT-102 with antenna socket with an intermittent solder joint and it
caused all sort of problems. It seems that you already checked all
voltages on the tubes, but it might help to know what you exactly
measured on the various grids and anodes, both in RX mode and in TX
(idle). Do you observe any variation on the idle current of tubes when
in TX mode with no mic input? When these tubes fail usually they have
an ever increasing idle current and there's little to no way to stop
this current to increase.

73

Francesco IZ8DWF

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Old August 28th 07, 02:17 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.homebrew
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Default Kenwood TS-820s finals.


"cliff wright" wrote in message
...
Good day all!
Have replaced the finals with 12 volt 6146B's (putting the heaters in

parallel of course). However although it now works, its effeciency is
damned awful.


That should work fine.

When it is loaded up to give 60 watts RF into a dummy load
the dissappation in 6146 anodes makes then glow cherry red!!!


Does maximum power out perfectly coincide with the dip in plate
current? What is the quiescient plate idle current in SSB? What
is the grid drive current when tuning? Are you using a terminating
type dummy load wattmeter, or an inline wattmeter to an antenna?

What is the plate current when tuned for 60 watts output?

Yes, I have replaced the anode coupling cap (with an appropriate 3Kv rf
type)


That wouldn't be a likely cause.,,

checked all the tube voltages set up the neutralisation and tried
the rig on all bands to ensure that the padding caps are OK.


Double check you coax jumper cables for problems, unsoldered
shields, etc. Sometimes simple solutions to difficult problems
elude us.

Peter k1zjh



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