Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

JIMMIE wrote:

I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

I have used high speed small table slitting saws to cut small pieces
of non-ferrous; for larger projects, I have used a table saw, radial-arm
saw or circular saw, with the blade reversed (old plywood blades generally).
Except for the large kerf, I get straight edges. For most projects however
I resort to the hand hack saw and file ;)

One can make a high speed slitting table saw from a lateral mounting of
a dremel tool; use multiple emery cutoff wheels on the arbor or a diamond
wheel.

Michael

Michael

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

msg wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:

I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

I have used high speed small table slitting saws to cut small pieces
of non-ferrous; for larger projects, I have used a table saw, radial-arm
saw or circular saw, with the blade reversed (old plywood blades
generally).
Except for the large kerf, I get straight edges. For most projects however
I resort to the hand hack saw and file ;)

One can make a high speed slitting table saw from a lateral mounting of
a dremel tool; use multiple emery cutoff wheels on the arbor or a diamond
wheel.

Michael

Michael

I've heard of people cutting non-ferrous metal with a table saw.
If the metal is not too thin it should work, thin metal may curl up and
bind in the saw, or worse go flying off the table!
If you must cut thin metal back it with a piece of thin hardwood.

I've also heard of people mounting the blade backwards so the teeth face
away from the work to cut aluminum. Not sure how this helps, but others
say it works.

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

ken scharf wrote:

snip
I've also heard of people mounting the blade backwards so the teeth face
away from the work to cut aluminum. Not sure how this helps, but others
say it works.

Perhaps I should have said 'backward' rather than 'reversed' as the latter
may imply reversed rotation. Mounting the blade opposite to its normal
orientation is what I meant and that has worked for me on light gauge
metal. For thicker Al and brass, I have used the dremel slitting saw
method.

Michael

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do it.

I have cut hard aluminum using a table saw with a tungsten carbide blade.
You have to be careful to feed the work slowly to the saw if you want
smooth edges. SAFETY GLASSES OR GOGGLES ARE A MUST!

73, Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

We cut .090" aluminum sheets all the time... We do it on a 10" table
saw with a 6", fine tooth blade, high speed steel, no off set in the
teeth, feed it sloooow, and wear ear muffs......

denny - k8do

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 14, 4:27*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

Fine-toothed circular saw blade made for cutting metal works wonders
on not just aluminum and brass but also many hard plastics.

You will probably not find the optimal blade at your local home depot
or hardware store. Check out mcmaster.com

If you can clamp the material or build a custom fence to hold down
thin material you will greatly reduce the vibration and noise.

Ear and eye protection is a must.

Believe it or not, I have seen aluminum machining done with a 2 or
2.25 HP electric router on long (20, 30 foot) bars for cutting slots
etc.

Tim.

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 14, 1:27*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

For thinner panels I use a large paper cutter that I reinforced the
hinge mount. This also cuts larger circuit board. For smaller circuit
board I use a tile cutter I picked up at a garage sale for a buck.


Wayne kd7rur

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 13:27:36 -0800 (PST), JIMMIE
wrote:

I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

I have used composition blades for aluminum/steel/copper sheet, angle,
tubing and rods with good luck.

Wear eye protection and hearing protection!

The cut edges will be sharp, file or sand until smooth.

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great on
antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting vertical
"slits" in aluminum tubing.

--
-larry
K8UT
"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 15, 5:53*pm, "Larry Gauthier \(K8UT\)"
wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great on
antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting vertical
"slits" in aluminum tubing.

--
-larry
K8UT"JIMMIE" wrote in message

...



I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I tried using a carbide tipped blade to cut some thick aluminum
plate and will never do that again. There is an extreme tendency
toward kick back. The same blade performed well for cutting Al tubing
in my radial arm saw. I think the problem is mostly becase of the way
the angle at which the blade is ground. Perhaps installing the blade
backwards may solve this problem.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great
on antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting
vertical "slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Well blush let's not heap too much praise on my solution... someone else
told me that this was the best/safest way to go. I clamp everything down
before lowering the blade onto it.

One other trick I use to prevent a bunch of metal debris from flying around:
my miter saw came with a cheap little "sawdust collector bag" that only
catches about 50% of the debris. I remove that bag and attach my shop vac
hose to the outlet from the saw. This works great and results in very little
debris (I still wear safety glasses and work gloves, of course).
--
-larry
K8UT
"Ian White GM3SEK" wrote in message
...
Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great on
antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting vertical
"slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the dangers
of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to remove
the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great
on antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting
vertical "slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK * * * * 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing. Also I had read a magazine article on using regular
carbide tipped tools meant for wood to cut non ferrous metal. The
article is WRONG, Its dangerous. I finished cutting my panels with a
jig saw. I lowered the table on drill press to make it flush with my
table saw to make use of it's fench as a guide and installed a mill in
the press. I used the mill to plane the edges of raw cuts. Unless I
ever find the occasion to do small production run this will be the
way I do it from now on.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Hey OM

I'd give my right kidney for a water jet cutter. 60,000 psi water out
of a saphire jet nozzle with a 10 mil opening feed by a high pressure
1/8 inch tubing. Uses only 1.2 gpm of water. Cuts even titatium like a
knife thru butter.

73 OM

n8zu

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 16, 8:05*pm, raypsi wrote:
Hey OM

I'd give my right kidney for a water jet cutter. 60,000 psi water *out
of a saphire jet nozzle with a 10 mil opening feed by a high pressure
1/8 inch tubing. Uses only 1.2 gpm of water. Cuts even titatium like a
knife thru butter.

73 OM

n8zu

My cousin runs one or did. He is/was a civilian employee at a naval
base, he may be retired now.. I think he spent more time cutting parts
out for custom cars than anything else. I remember the first time I
saw the thing was in the early 80s and the computer that ran it took
up 3 or 4 rack cabinets and data for the pattern was put in on mylar
punch tape. The last time I saw it there were just a couple of PCs. He
has even used the thing to cut automotive glass. Slices through it
like the proverbial butter. There were rumors that Santa may bring me
a plasma tourch set this year but I don't think its going to happen.
He already remodeled my bathroom.


Jimmie

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.



I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:
http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Delving further I surfed across a twin blade circular saw.
Two counter rotating circular blades that leave no burrs in aluminum.
Makes lots of aluminum waste though.

73 OM
n8zu

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 17, 4:11*pm, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

If anyone over here is selling them near that price I can't find them.
I may splurge a bit and get an $80 one.
A big piece of aluminum stuck between my fingers convinced me.


Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 18, 7:51 pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 17, 4:11 pm, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:



JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12 am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

If anyone over here is selling them near that price I can't find them.
I may splurge a bit and get an $80 one.
A big piece of aluminum stuck between my fingers convinced me.

Jimmie

Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Jimmie

Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
At last - someone using the right tool for the job

You can get fine-kerf angle-grinder blades, that's what I use.
They need frequent replacement, but for the occasional cut, it
beats a hacksaw.

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 18, 9:23*pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:
* Jimmie



Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

I just realized I worked 37 hrs of overtime in the last 2 weeks. I
think I am going to treat myself to one of the triple chip blades.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 18, 9:23*pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

I just realized I worked 37 hrs of overtime in the last 2 weeks. I
think I am going to treat myself to one of the triple chip blades.


Yeah, go on... "Because You're Worth It" :-)


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 18, 9:23*pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:
* Jimmie



Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

Hey OM
If a twin blade 6.25 inch blade cuts like a 14 inch blade what's a
triple blade cut like?

And can you shave your face with that mirror?
That would make one heck of a disco ceiling mirror ball.

Twin blade is lifetime gaurantee.

73 OM
n8zu

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 19, 10:35*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 18, 9:23*pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

I just realized I worked 37 hrs of overtime in the last 2 weeks. I
think I am going to treat myself to one of the triple chip blades.

Yeah, go on... "Because You're Worth It" * :-)

--

73 from Ian GM3SEKhttp://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Hey OM

Heck just across the pond in Germany they gits 4 month paid vacation
plenty of time to use a diamond fingernail file to cut that aluminum.

73 OM
n8zu

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

"raypsi" wrote in message
...
On Dec 18, 9:23 pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:
Jimmie



Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

Hey OM
If a twin blade 6.25 inch blade cuts like a 14 inch blade what's a
triple blade cut like?

And can you shave your face with that mirror?
That would make one heck of a disco ceiling mirror ball.

Twin blade is lifetime gaurantee.

73 OM
n8zu

It is a single blade- and the triple chip refers to the rake of individual
teeth. I think every aluminum house uses a triple chip blade. Not cheap at
$150 or so- but as I said, one of our blades is around 10 years old, is used
daily and still cuts with a mirror finish.

Dale W4OP

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Dec 19 2008, 12:14*pm, raypsi wrote:
On Dec 18, 9:23*pm, "Dale Parfitt" wrote:





* Jimmie

Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu

Commercially, we use a triple chip blade. The current blade is almost 10
years old and leaves a mirror finish on the aluminum cut.

Dale W4OP

Hey OM
If a twin blade 6.25 inch blade cuts like a 14 inch blade what's a
triple blade cut like?

And can you shave your face with that mirror?
That would make one heck of a disco ceiling mirror ball.

Twin blade is lifetime gaurantee.

73 OM
n8zu- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For those still interested I found that Delta makes a non ferrous
blade that sells for about $25 USD.

Jimmie

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

"JIMMIE" wrote in message news:a583f333-5677-479d
Jimmie
For those still interested I found that Delta makes a non ferrous
blade that sells for about $25 USD.

Jimmie

Very interested. What size blade, and how does it cut aluminum?

Pete

Cutting non ferrous metals with a table saw
 

On Feb 6, 5:16*pm, "Tio Pedro" wrote:
"JIMMIE" wrote in message news:a583f333-5677-479d

* Jimmie
* For those still interested I found that Delta makes a non ferrous
blade that sells for about $25 USD.

Jimmie

Very interested. What size blade, and how does it cut aluminum?

Pete

Blade is 10 inch, fits my chop saw , radial arm and table saw.
Ive used it to cut Al tubing and some square bar stock and it seemed
to do a good job.
I tried it on some Al sheet metal and it did pretty awful. I think
this has something to do with the alloy more than the blade. I have
always had trouble doing anything with this piece of stock. It binds
up drill bits in a second.

Jimmie