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#11
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On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 11:11:31 +0100, Paul Burridge hath writ:
Paul Burridge wrote: Can anyone suggest a suitable material from which to make an ultra-flexible mobile whip antenna say about 3 to 4 feet long. I need something that can be bent to 90 degrees at a very small radius and still return to reasonable straightness. Yeah, sorry chaps, I should have better defined what I meant by 'very small radius'. I compete in radio-controlled model battles, so the model stands to get fipped upside down from time to time in a very bruising environment and it already has a very low ground-clearance, so using a spring as a base mounting won't help much, I'm afraid. We're talking about radiuses of as little as 5mm! How about the specific grade of stainless steel in wire form that springs are made from? I know where I can get hold of some of that.... You might try a section from a steel tape measure. (Just don't select one of the cheap, Made-In-China plastic/mylar ones. HI!HI!) Additionally, try to mount the antenna in a "well" on the robot. Even a well of 5-10 mm will help out. HTH, Jonesy -- | Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | OS/2 | Gunnison, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | linux __ | 7,703' -- 2,345m | config.com | DM68mn SK |
#13
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In article ,
says... On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 03:25:47 GMT, Active8 wrote: In article vKBWa.20717$KF1.308575@amstwist00, lid says... Paul Burridge wrote: Hi chaps, Can anyone suggest a suitable material from which to make an ultra-flexible mobile whip antenna say about 3 to 4 feet long. I need something that can be bent to 90 degrees at a very small radius and still return to reasonable straightness. I think thin piano wire will give the best results. Place a lot of them in a flexible tube to gain some thickness and have them silvered for conductivity - or add a stranded copper wire. Spring metal strip may also work, especially if you can manage some type of hinge at the base that allows it to turn when sideways force is exerted, or if the force is in one plane. Thomas what is a tight bend? music wire comes in diff sizes and the number in the tube and how tightly the tube conforms to it will have an effect on the flexibility. Yeah, sorry chaps, I should have better defined what I meant by 'very small radius'. I compete in radio-controlled model battles, so the model stands to get fipped upside down from time to time in a very bruising environment and it already has a very low ground-clearance, so using a spring as a base mounting won't help much, I'm afraid. We're talking about radiuses of as little as 5mm! How about the specific grade of stainless steel in wire form that springs are made from? I know where I can get hold of some of that.... -- "I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend to write it." - Winston Churchill oh, hi. it's the battle bot guy. i should have caught that, duh! mike |
#14
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On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:40:43 +0100, "cpemma"
wrote: The alloy is Type 301 (17% chromium, 7% nickel stainless steel) hard drawn wire, or even better is a 17/7PH (precipitation hardening) grade that our firm once produced for tank aerials, that also may take a few knocks. Both (especially the PH grade) need a final heat-treatment (420C for a few minutes IIRC) for ultimate spring properties, but to get such a tight bend you'd need quite a thin wire. It's a matter of the proof strain or limit of proportionality, how much the outer skin can stretch without taking a permanent set, compared to the neutral central axis, on the bend. There speaks a man who obviously knows what he's talking about. Yes, I believe we can order 301 from our guy in N. London who's very accommodating on such matters. Thanks for a valuable steer! Just one point, though: is stainless steel a reasonable radiator of RF energy? -- "I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend to write it." - Winston Churchill |
#15
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On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:40:43 +0100, "cpemma"
wrote: The alloy is Type 301 (17% chromium, 7% nickel stainless steel) hard drawn wire, or even better is a 17/7PH (precipitation hardening) grade that our firm once produced for tank aerials, that also may take a few knocks. Both (especially the PH grade) need a final heat-treatment (420C for a few minutes IIRC) for ultimate spring properties, but to get such a tight bend you'd need quite a thin wire. It's a matter of the proof strain or limit of proportionality, how much the outer skin can stretch without taking a permanent set, compared to the neutral central axis, on the bend. There speaks a man who obviously knows what he's talking about. Yes, I believe we can order 301 from our guy in N. London who's very accommodating on such matters. Thanks for a valuable steer! Just one point, though: is stainless steel a reasonable radiator of RF energy? -- "I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend to write it." - Winston Churchill |
#16
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On 2 Aug 2003 16:24:24 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
wrote: You might try a section from a steel tape measure. (Just don't select one of the cheap, Made-In-China plastic/mylar ones. HI!HI!) Additionally, try to mount the antenna in a "well" on the robot. Even a well of 5-10 mm will help out. Not sure about the tape measure suggestion, but mounting in a well is something I'd not considered and am most grateful for the idea of! Thanks... -- "I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend to write it." - Winston Churchill |
#17
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On 2 Aug 2003 16:24:24 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
wrote: You might try a section from a steel tape measure. (Just don't select one of the cheap, Made-In-China plastic/mylar ones. HI!HI!) Additionally, try to mount the antenna in a "well" on the robot. Even a well of 5-10 mm will help out. Not sure about the tape measure suggestion, but mounting in a well is something I'd not considered and am most grateful for the idea of! Thanks... -- "I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend to write it." - Winston Churchill |
#18
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:
The alloy is Type 301 (17% chromium, 7% nickel stainless steel) hard drawn wire, or even better is a 17/7PH (precipitation hardening) grade that our firm once produced for tank aerials, that also may take a few knocks. Both (especially the PH grade) need a final heat-treatment (420C for a few minutes IIRC) for ultimate spring properties, but to get such a tight bend you'd need quite a thin wire. It's a matter of the proof strain or limit of proportionality, how much the outer skin can stretch without taking a permanent set, compared to the neutral central axis, on the bend. There speaks a man who obviously knows what he's talking about. Yes, I believe we can order 301 from our guy in N. London who's very accommodating on such matters. Thanks for a valuable steer! Just one point, though: is stainless steel a reasonable radiator of RF energy? Back years ago (30 or so) there was an ad in a magazine about either a loaded CB or 5/8 two meter whip about 36 inches long bent in a circle made of the 17/7 material. Not sure what the whips are actually made of but most are some kind of steel . |
#19
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:
The alloy is Type 301 (17% chromium, 7% nickel stainless steel) hard drawn wire, or even better is a 17/7PH (precipitation hardening) grade that our firm once produced for tank aerials, that also may take a few knocks. Both (especially the PH grade) need a final heat-treatment (420C for a few minutes IIRC) for ultimate spring properties, but to get such a tight bend you'd need quite a thin wire. It's a matter of the proof strain or limit of proportionality, how much the outer skin can stretch without taking a permanent set, compared to the neutral central axis, on the bend. There speaks a man who obviously knows what he's talking about. Yes, I believe we can order 301 from our guy in N. London who's very accommodating on such matters. Thanks for a valuable steer! Just one point, though: is stainless steel a reasonable radiator of RF energy? Back years ago (30 or so) there was an ad in a magazine about either a loaded CB or 5/8 two meter whip about 36 inches long bent in a circle made of the 17/7 material. Not sure what the whips are actually made of but most are some kind of steel . |
#20
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"Paul Burridge" wrote in message ... On 2 Aug 2003 16:24:24 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote: You might try a section from a steel tape measure. (Just don't select one of the cheap, Made-In-China plastic/mylar ones. HI!HI!) Additionally, try to mount the antenna in a "well" on the robot. Even a well of 5-10 mm will help out. Not sure about the tape measure suggestion, but mounting in a well is something I'd not considered and am most grateful for the idea of! Thanks... Does it have to be a whip antenna? Why not try a horizontal circular loop? Since you are working line of sight to the robot, the signal loss from going from vertical to horizontal shouldn't matter much unless your transmitter is extremely low power. A loop could be mounted inside a wooden or fiberglas body and be pretty safe from attack. Is there anything in the rules forbidding your installing a jammer transmitter to cause the other bot to lose its command channel? Probobly a poor use of what little electrical capacity the onboard battery holds, but it would be one way of causing the other bot to freeze in place and become like a deer in the headlights. thanks, John. KC5DWD |
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