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Anti-sieze?
I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get
it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob |
"Bob" wrote in message
... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Bob: http://bosunsupplies.com carries it (well,a t least one version thereof). Bosun Supply is an excellent source for all sorts of stuff useful in ham radio. Besides, when I order from them, I can pretend I own a 40 ft sloop. grin 73 Paul AB0SI |
"Bob" wrote in message
... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Bob: http://bosunsupplies.com carries it (well,a t least one version thereof). Bosun Supply is an excellent source for all sorts of stuff useful in ham radio. Besides, when I order from them, I can pretend I own a 40 ft sloop. grin 73 Paul AB0SI |
Any electrical parts place sells it. It is commonly known as Penetrox
or inhibitor paste. It is primarily used for aluminum wire contact with terminal strips. Dick K7RNZ wrote: "Bob" wrote in message ... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Bob: http://bosunsupplies.com carries it (well,a t least one version thereof). Bosun Supply is an excellent source for all sorts of stuff useful in ham radio. Besides, when I order from them, I can pretend I own a 40 ft sloop. grin 73 Paul AB0SI |
Any electrical parts place sells it. It is commonly known as Penetrox
or inhibitor paste. It is primarily used for aluminum wire contact with terminal strips. Dick K7RNZ wrote: "Bob" wrote in message ... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Bob: http://bosunsupplies.com carries it (well,a t least one version thereof). Bosun Supply is an excellent source for all sorts of stuff useful in ham radio. Besides, when I order from them, I can pretend I own a 40 ft sloop. grin 73 Paul AB0SI |
Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it.
I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it.
I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
The stuff I use is from Lawson...its simular to CopperCoat, but its 80%
copper and works great. it takes very little...*maybe* a tablespoon full to do a 4 element tribander, but after 4 or 5 years in a really bad salt environment(Treasure Island in San Francisco bay), everything that had been put together with this stuff came right apart when the screws were taken out...anything that didn't get the antiseize was junk. The stuff is expensive but worth every penny. "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
The stuff I use is from Lawson...its simular to CopperCoat, but its 80%
copper and works great. it takes very little...*maybe* a tablespoon full to do a 4 element tribander, but after 4 or 5 years in a really bad salt environment(Treasure Island in San Francisco bay), everything that had been put together with this stuff came right apart when the screws were taken out...anything that didn't get the antiseize was junk. The stuff is expensive but worth every penny. "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
Automotive anti-seize is not the same as electrical.
Different purpose. The automotive is to keep steel bolts from binding in aluminum, magnesium, etc. The electrical is to keep the coated materials from oxidizing while at the same time ensuring good electrical contact. -- Clif Holland, KA5IPF AVVid Authorized Kenwood and Icom Service Center 816 W Shady Grove Rd Irving, TX 75060 1-800-214-5779 972-870-0630 (local) "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
Automotive anti-seize is not the same as electrical.
Different purpose. The automotive is to keep steel bolts from binding in aluminum, magnesium, etc. The electrical is to keep the coated materials from oxidizing while at the same time ensuring good electrical contact. -- Clif Holland, KA5IPF AVVid Authorized Kenwood and Icom Service Center 816 W Shady Grove Rd Irving, TX 75060 1-800-214-5779 972-870-0630 (local) "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
Here is a link to the Lawson stuff
http://webapp1.lawsonproducts.com/we...?itemNum=59933 I have been using the same can for 20 years...a little bit goes a very long way....It works great for all kinds of other stuff too...lug nuts, exhaust manifold bolts, aluminium wire in breaker boxes etc..... "Noon-Air" wrote in message ... The stuff I use is from Lawson...its simular to CopperCoat, but its 80% copper and works great. it takes very little...*maybe* a tablespoon full to do a 4 element tribander, but after 4 or 5 years in a really bad salt environment(Treasure Island in San Francisco bay), everything that had been put together with this stuff came right apart when the screws were taken out...anything that didn't get the antiseize was junk. The stuff is expensive but worth every penny. "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
Here is a link to the Lawson stuff
http://webapp1.lawsonproducts.com/we...?itemNum=59933 I have been using the same can for 20 years...a little bit goes a very long way....It works great for all kinds of other stuff too...lug nuts, exhaust manifold bolts, aluminium wire in breaker boxes etc..... "Noon-Air" wrote in message ... The stuff I use is from Lawson...its simular to CopperCoat, but its 80% copper and works great. it takes very little...*maybe* a tablespoon full to do a 4 element tribander, but after 4 or 5 years in a really bad salt environment(Treasure Island in San Francisco bay), everything that had been put together with this stuff came right apart when the screws were taken out...anything that didn't get the antiseize was junk. The stuff is expensive but worth every penny. "Bob" wrote in message ... Two electronics stores and Home Depot didn't have it. I finally found some at my auto parts store. I was told that Ham Radio Outlet had it for $8 but I only paid $3 for a decent sized tube of the stuff. Thanks for your help, guys. 73, Bob |
"Bob" wrote in message ... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. God Bless 73 Tom Popovic KI3R Belle Vernon Pa |
"Bob" wrote in message ... I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get it? For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make replacing tips easier. I think it's molybdenum disulfide. 73, Bob Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. God Bless 73 Tom Popovic KI3R Belle Vernon Pa |
May be for a different purpose but have used it on antennas for along time
and have never had any problems with it. Seems to conduct just fine and will certainly let things come apart easy. Last use was on a TH6DXX, no ill side effects, still up and working without any problems. Antenna analyzer shows all is well. |
May be for a different purpose but have used it on antennas for along time
and have never had any problems with it. Seems to conduct just fine and will certainly let things come apart easy. Last use was on a TH6DXX, no ill side effects, still up and working without any problems. Antenna analyzer shows all is well. |
Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the
boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. ====================================== In the UK a very good stuff for outer metal protection is Finigan Waxoyl, available from many autoparts - and hardware shops. Living in a windswept area near seawater ,hence with a lot of salt spray ,I use it on all bolts and nuts and galvanised metal clamps etc. Of course it is NOT suitable to make galvanic contact between (dissimilar) metal parts. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the
boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. ====================================== In the UK a very good stuff for outer metal protection is Finigan Waxoyl, available from many autoparts - and hardware shops. Living in a windswept area near seawater ,hence with a lot of salt spray ,I use it on all bolts and nuts and galvanised metal clamps etc. Of course it is NOT suitable to make galvanic contact between (dissimilar) metal parts. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH |
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 07:39:40 -0700, "Topaz305RK"
wrote: May be for a different purpose but have used it on antennas for along time and have never had any problems with it. Seems to conduct just fine and will certainly let things come apart easy. Last use was on a TH6DXX, no ill side effects, still up and working without any problems. Antenna analyzer shows all is well. Yes, I have used the NeverSeez conductive grease, sold for automotive repairs, on things like car battery terminals, to resist corrosion and enhance conductivity. It does fine there. As long as conductivity is good, and there is no capacitance created, it should be fine. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 07:39:40 -0700, "Topaz305RK"
wrote: May be for a different purpose but have used it on antennas for along time and have never had any problems with it. Seems to conduct just fine and will certainly let things come apart easy. Last use was on a TH6DXX, no ill side effects, still up and working without any problems. Antenna analyzer shows all is well. Yes, I have used the NeverSeez conductive grease, sold for automotive repairs, on things like car battery terminals, to resist corrosion and enhance conductivity. It does fine there. As long as conductivity is good, and there is no capacitance created, it should be fine. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
There are two varieties. One is a mix of graphite and moly in a syrupy solvent.
One is a mix of copper dust and moly in a pasty solvent. Either one works well and we notice not a whit of difference in the conduction properties. In the aircraft industry, we use them rather interchangeably to coat the threads (lightly) on spark plugs so they won't pull out the helicoils in the heads when we go to change them annually, on manifold and muffler bolts so we don't have to drill them out when it comes time to work on them, and on any other thread that is likely to become corroded into place. If necessary, you can go to an aviation supply house (Chief Aircraft, Grants Pass OR; Aircraft Spruce, Fullerton) and buy as much as you need by mail order. In a really well-stocked automotive supply house you can buy it by the dribble bottle, pint, or quart. Jim "Bob" shared these priceless pearls of wisdom: -I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get -it? - -For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or -tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together -after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make -replacing tips easier. - -I think it's molybdenum disulfide. - -73, Bob - Jim Weir, VP Eng. RST Eng. WX6RST A&P, CFI, and other good alphabet soup |
There are two varieties. One is a mix of graphite and moly in a syrupy solvent.
One is a mix of copper dust and moly in a pasty solvent. Either one works well and we notice not a whit of difference in the conduction properties. In the aircraft industry, we use them rather interchangeably to coat the threads (lightly) on spark plugs so they won't pull out the helicoils in the heads when we go to change them annually, on manifold and muffler bolts so we don't have to drill them out when it comes time to work on them, and on any other thread that is likely to become corroded into place. If necessary, you can go to an aviation supply house (Chief Aircraft, Grants Pass OR; Aircraft Spruce, Fullerton) and buy as much as you need by mail order. In a really well-stocked automotive supply house you can buy it by the dribble bottle, pint, or quart. Jim "Bob" shared these priceless pearls of wisdom: -I need some of this stuff for antenna assembly. Anyone know where to get -it? - -For those who don't know what it is, it's a paste you get in a little can or -tube that you smear on mating metals to avoid having them stick together -after exposure to the elements. It's also used for soldering irons to make -replacing tips easier. - -I think it's molybdenum disulfide. - -73, Bob - Jim Weir, VP Eng. RST Eng. WX6RST A&P, CFI, and other good alphabet soup |
Frank Dinger wrote:
Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. ====================================== In the UK a very good stuff for outer metal protection is Finigan Waxoyl, available from many autoparts - and hardware shops. Living in a windswept area near seawater ,hence with a lot of salt spray ,I use it on all bolts and nuts and galvanised metal clamps etc. Of course it is NOT suitable to make galvanic contact between (dissimilar) metal parts. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH This is definitely a "me too." Waxoyl is excellent stuff - a blend of wax and oil (surprise) plus corrosion inhibitors that really work. I recently pulled out a rotating pipe mast that had been sitting in a ground socket full of Waxoyl. 10 years of condensation had turned it into more like an oil/wax/water emulsion, but the bare steel came out looking like new. In more normal use on nuts and bolts, the oil dries out and the wax coating hardens, so it also acts as a pretty good thread-lock. Don't know if Waxoyl is available outside of Britain... but if it isn't, it should be! -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Frank Dinger wrote:
Hi Bob ... I applied Permatex anti-seize to the bolts on my tower and the boom-mast-rotor hardware. The whole works came apart smoothly after being up for 20 plus years. The material I used between the Al junctions on the TH-6 was supplied by Hy-Gain in a little metal pill box. Likewise the stuff worked great. SS hardware used on the antenna. ====================================== In the UK a very good stuff for outer metal protection is Finigan Waxoyl, available from many autoparts - and hardware shops. Living in a windswept area near seawater ,hence with a lot of salt spray ,I use it on all bolts and nuts and galvanised metal clamps etc. Of course it is NOT suitable to make galvanic contact between (dissimilar) metal parts. Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH This is definitely a "me too." Waxoyl is excellent stuff - a blend of wax and oil (surprise) plus corrosion inhibitors that really work. I recently pulled out a rotating pipe mast that had been sitting in a ground socket full of Waxoyl. 10 years of condensation had turned it into more like an oil/wax/water emulsion, but the bare steel came out looking like new. In more normal use on nuts and bolts, the oil dries out and the wax coating hardens, so it also acts as a pretty good thread-lock. Don't know if Waxoyl is available outside of Britain... but if it isn't, it should be! -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
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