On Wed, 04 Feb 2004 06:31:08 -0800, James W
wrote:

When working with simple perfboard (just holes, no 'traces' connecting
the holes) how does one connect the components together? I'm guessing by
using jumper wires for point-to-point wiring on the backside, but that
seems a bit ugly.

- jim

I don't have a catalog anymore, but Vector used to make a variety of
pins, for both wire wrap and solder, that fit in their perfboards.
Punch in the pins, mount the components on them, run the connections
on the bottom and solder. They also had a wiring pencil that could be
used to run the connections. The wire had an insulation that would
melt when hit with solder. I wired up a couple of simple IC based
digital designs with one. I just used normal DIP sockets for the IC's.

Bob McConnell
N2SPP

In article , Bob McConnell
writes:

I don't have a catalog anymore, but Vector used to make a variety of
pins, for both wire wrap and solder, that fit in their perfboards.
Punch in the pins, mount the components on them, run the connections
on the bottom and solder. They also had a wiring pencil that could be
used to run the connections. The wire had an insulation that would
melt when hit with solder. I wired up a couple of simple IC based
digital designs with one. I just used normal DIP sockets for the IC's.

Vector Electronics has a website with catalog information on it.

The wire you are mentioning is like "SolderEze" or some name
similar to that, usually found in #26 AWG size. I've used it but
would just as soon go with ordinary Kynar insultaion wire-wrap
stuff. SolderEze tended to get abrasion of the insulation, resulting
in cross-circuiting. Especially so with heat.

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

Len Anderson
retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person

...[snip]....
I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

--Myron.
--
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge
PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol)

In article , writes:

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

Yes! But, I didn't want to rub that in to homebrewers. :-)

Sigh, I'm way overdue for searching electronic dumps for teflon covered
wire...old nylon-jacketed PVC is still old and still melts.

[I'm secretly glad no one remarked on the extra T in 'insulation,' that
would be instigation of insulting the insulation installation... :-) ]

Len Anderson
retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person

Avery Fineman wrote:
In article , writes:

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

Yes! But, I didn't want to rub that in to homebrewers. :-)

Sigh, I'm way overdue for searching electronic dumps for teflon covered
wire...old nylon-jacketed PVC is still old and still melts.

At a hamfest on Sunday, a trader was selling teflon insulated
silver-plated stranded hookup wire in two sizes, as "aerial wire". I
bought 50 metres, but by no means all of it is going up in the air.

Len, you said it "strips easily"... well, maybe I haven't found the
right kind of wire strippers yet. What kind do you use?


[I'm secretly glad no one remarked on the extra T in 'insulation,' that
would be instigation of insulting the insulation installation... :-) ]

Would we ever do such a thing?


--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Avery Fineman wrote:
In article , writes:

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

Yes! But, I didn't want to rub that in to homebrewers. :-)

Sigh, I'm way overdue for searching electronic dumps for teflon covered
wire...old nylon-jacketed PVC is still old and still melts.

At a hamfest on Sunday, a trader was selling teflon insulated
silver-plated stranded hookup wire in two sizes, as "aerial wire". I
bought 50 metres, but by no means all of it is going up in the air.

Len, you said it "strips easily"... well, maybe I haven't found the
right kind of wire strippers yet. What kind do you use?


[I'm secretly glad no one remarked on the extra T in 'insulation,' that
would be instigation of insulting the insulation installation... :-) ]

Would we ever do such a thing?


--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

In article , writes:

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

Yes! But, I didn't want to rub that in to homebrewers. :-)

Sigh, I'm way overdue for searching electronic dumps for teflon covered
wire...old nylon-jacketed PVC is still old and still melts.

[I'm secretly glad no one remarked on the extra T in 'insulation,' that
would be instigation of insulting the insulation installation... :-) ]

Len Anderson
retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person

...[snip]....
I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

And you can just jam the point of a soldering pencil down
into a "rats nest" and not melt a bit of insulation!

--Myron.
--
Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge
PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol)

In article , Bob McConnell
writes:

I don't have a catalog anymore, but Vector used to make a variety of
pins, for both wire wrap and solder, that fit in their perfboards.
Punch in the pins, mount the components on them, run the connections
on the bottom and solder. They also had a wiring pencil that could be
used to run the connections. The wire had an insulation that would
melt when hit with solder. I wired up a couple of simple IC based
digital designs with one. I just used normal DIP sockets for the IC's.

Vector Electronics has a website with catalog information on it.

The wire you are mentioning is like "SolderEze" or some name
similar to that, usually found in #26 AWG size. I've used it but
would just as soon go with ordinary Kynar insultaion wire-wrap
stuff. SolderEze tended to get abrasion of the insulation, resulting
in cross-circuiting. Especially so with heat.

I got spoiled with #24 and #26 Teflon insulated solid wire, strips
easily and never abrades the insultation.

Len Anderson
retired (from regular hours) electronic engineer person

On Wed, 04 Feb 2004 06:31:08 -0800, James W
wrote:

When working with simple perfboard (just holes, no 'traces' connecting
the holes) how does one connect the components together? I'm guessing by
using jumper wires for point-to-point wiring on the backside, but that
seems a bit ugly.

- jim

I don't have a catalog anymore, but Vector used to make a variety of
pins, for both wire wrap and solder, that fit in their perfboards.
Punch in the pins, mount the components on them, run the connections
on the bottom and solder. They also had a wiring pencil that could be
used to run the connections. The wire had an insulation that would
melt when hit with solder. I wired up a couple of simple IC based
digital designs with one. I just used normal DIP sockets for the IC's.

Bob McConnell
N2SPP