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60 / 40?
I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?)
solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? |
60 / 40?
"gareth" wrote in message ... I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? me me me ...... |
60 / 40?
"Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? me me me ...... that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... |
60 / 40?
Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote:
that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. |
60 / 40?
"Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. that is good to hear...just avoid mains powerd units then ...good |
60 / 40?
Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote:
"Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. that is good to hear...just avoid mains powerd units then ...good A well designed battery operated unit has a switchmode regulator as well (or else it would require a Batteriser...), and those wall warts today are switchmode supplies as well. |
60 / 40?
"Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: "Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. that is good to hear...just avoid mains powerd units then ...good A well designed battery operated unit has a switchmode regulator as well (or else it would require a Batteriser...), and those wall warts today are switchmode supplies as well. tell me something Some "Expert" was on the radio saying that phone chargers should be unplugged as they use power even when not in use ...fair enough I thought if they have a transformer but I thought those lightweight switchmode units didn't draw any powe until the phone was plugged in? ... |
60 / 40?
Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote:
"Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: "Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. that is good to hear...just avoid mains powerd units then ...good A well designed battery operated unit has a switchmode regulator as well (or else it would require a Batteriser...), and those wall warts today are switchmode supplies as well. tell me something Some "Expert" was on the radio saying that phone chargers should be unplugged as they use power even when not in use ...fair enough I thought if they have a transformer but I thought those lightweight switchmode units didn't draw any powe until the phone was plugged in? ... That is right. I think they are required to draw less than a watt when nothing is plugged in. This is only possible with a switchmode design. However, I have seen several of those things fail, often in a somewhat explosive way (case blown open or apart, nasty smell). Never a fire, though. |
60 / 40?
"Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: "Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: "Rob" wrote in message ... Jimbo in the Borders ... wrote: that must be why all modern DIGITAL stuff breaks down just out of guarantee....so more crap into landfill.... stupid really because if it was 60/40 gluing it together it would still be working .... Most failures in modern digital stuff are because of bad electrolytic capacitors, mostly because of switchmode powersupplies that result in large AC currents through the capacitors. Once the ESR goes up, the caps heat up and dry out, causing the ESR to increase even more and this causes the type of failure you often see: the device runs fine until it is powercycled, then sometimes can work when it is left to heat up for a few minutes. This has nothing to do with the soldering. that is good to hear...just avoid mains powerd units then ...good A well designed battery operated unit has a switchmode regulator as well (or else it would require a Batteriser...), and those wall warts today are switchmode supplies as well. tell me something Some "Expert" was on the radio saying that phone chargers should be unplugged as they use power even when not in use ...fair enough I thought if they have a transformer but I thought those lightweight switchmode units didn't draw any powe until the phone was plugged in? ... That is right. I think they are required to draw less than a watt when nothing is plugged in. This is only possible with a switchmode design. However, I have seen several of those things fail, often in a somewhat explosive way (case blown open or apart, nasty smell). Never a fire, though. I had a cheap chinky jonker go that way..... |
60 / 40?
On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote:
I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff |
60 / 40?
Jeff wrote:
On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff He just wanted to admit he doesn't use solder. Well, other than the 'vapourware' type. ;-) |
60 / 40?
"Brian Reay" wrote in message
... On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? He just wanted to admit he doesn't use solder. Well, other than the 'vapourware' type. It continues to be you who originates abusive remarks on a daily basis. Why do you always behave in such a negative, anti-social and dysfunctional manner? |
60 / 40?
On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote:
On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. Frank , GM0CSZ / KN6WH in IO87AT |
60 / 40?
On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote:
On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael |
60 / 40?
"Michael Black" wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1512041125060.14755@darkstar. example.org... I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. The 63/37 may be slightly beter than the 60/40. The reason is that the 63/37 is beter is that it does not go through the 'plastic' state when cooling off. It goes directly from a liquid to a solid. I think it has the lowest melting point of any of the mixes. I don't use very much of the larger solder as I have switched to crimp conectors for much of the coax and power wires. Bought a couple of rolls of the very small stuff at hamfests over the years for not too much. If I see a bargain , I still get a roll . |
60 / 40?
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 11:26:31 -0500, Michael Black wrote:
On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote: On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael 63/37 is better but the difference is very slight. In the "old days" they used 50/50 and even 40/60. -- Jim Mueller To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us. |
60 / 40?
On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, Jim Mueller wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 11:26:31 -0500, Michael Black wrote: On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote: On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael 63/37 is better but the difference is very slight. In the "old days" they used 50/50 and even 40/60. The stuff I had was nice and thin, which probably mattered more than the actual mix. I suddenly remember buying some solder, I can't remember why or where but I suspect I got a good price, and then it turned out to be the wrong mix. It was awful, so maybe it was 50/50. It wasn't acid core, just hard to use, if I recall properly. At a garage sale a few years ago, I found a small roll of "IBM Brand" solder, I assume it was made by someone else and IBM put their brand on it. Too thick to be useful, it was a good mix though. Michael |
60 / 40?
"Michael Black" wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1512042253160.15794@darkstar. example.org... On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, Jim Mueller wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 11:26:31 -0500, Michael Black wrote: On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote: On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael 63/37 is better but the difference is very slight. In the "old days" they used 50/50 and even 40/60. The stuff I had was nice and thin, which probably mattered more than the actual mix. I suddenly remember buying some solder, I can't remember why or where but I suspect I got a good price, and then it turned out to be the wrong mix. It was awful, so maybe it was 50/50. It wasn't acid core, just hard to use, if I recall properly. At a garage sale a few years ago, I found a small roll of "IBM Brand" solder, I assume it was made by someone else and IBM put their brand on it. Too thick to be useful, it was a good mix though. Michael My first soldering iron was a poker in a coal fire. Can't remember where I got solder from, the local TV repair shop probably. -- ;-) .. 73 de Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI - mine's a pint. .. http://turner-smith.uk |
60 / 40?
In message , FranK Turner-Smith G3VKI
writes "Michael Black" wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1512042253160.15794@darkstar .example.org... On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, Jim Mueller wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 11:26:31 -0500, Michael Black wrote: On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote: On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael 63/37 is better but the difference is very slight. In the "old days" they used 50/50 and even 40/60. The stuff I had was nice and thin, which probably mattered more than the actual mix. I suddenly remember buying some solder, I can't remember why or where but I suspect I got a good price, and then it turned out to be the wrong mix. It was awful, so maybe it was 50/50. It wasn't acid core, just hard to use, if I recall properly. At a garage sale a few years ago, I found a small roll of "IBM Brand" solder, I assume it was made by someone else and IBM put their brand on it. Too thick to be useful, it was a good mix though. Michael My first soldering iron was a poker in a coal fire. Same here. However, some visiting family friends (staying with us for a holiday) took pity on me, and bought me a small 'heat in the fire' iron (plus a tin of Little Imp soldering paste) at Woolworths, in Berwick. I remember the occasion well - even though it was 1959. Can't remember where I got solder from, the local TV repair shop probably. I think my dad some (1/4" bar stuff). -- Ian |
60 / 40?
"Michael Black" wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1512042253160.15794@darkstar. example.org... At a garage sale a few years ago, I found a small roll of "IBM Brand" solder, I assume it was made by someone else and IBM put their brand on it. Too thick to be useful, it was a good mix though. Keep your eyes out for some of the best solder ever made. It is Western Electric Nassau solder. Almost worth its weight in gold. Just ask anyone that is big in the audio field. It goes along with the oxygen free teflon insulated wire that goes from the hifi to the wall socket. |
60 / 40?
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
... Keep your eyes out for some of the best solder ever made. It is Western Electric Nassau solder. Almost worth its weight in gold. Just ask anyone that is big in the audio field. It goes along with the oxygen free teflon insulated wire that goes from the hifi to the wall socket. :-) ? |
60 / 40?
"FranK Turner-Smith G3VKI" wrote in message ... "Michael Black" wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1512042253160.15794@darkstar. example.org... On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, Jim Mueller wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 11:26:31 -0500, Michael Black wrote: On Fri, 4 Dec 2015, highlandham wrote: On 03/12/15 18:06, Jeff wrote: On 03/12/2015 15:20, gareth wrote: I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? Wrong again Gareth!! tin lead solder is not banned "to the exclusion of all else". It is still allowed in biomedical, military and some avionics equipment and for the repair of items that were built with tin/lead. It is still easy to purchase 60/40. Jeff ========================= Agree , I still happily use 60/40 resin core solder and recently stocked-up . Lead free solder is a pain. I thought 63/37 was better. I once got a good deal on that mix, nice and thin too, and it lasted a long time. Fewer places to get electronic solder now, the replacement roll cost more and was too thick, and 60/40. Michael 63/37 is better but the difference is very slight. In the "old days" they used 50/50 and even 40/60. The stuff I had was nice and thin, which probably mattered more than the actual mix. I suddenly remember buying some solder, I can't remember why or where but I suspect I got a good price, and then it turned out to be the wrong mix. It was awful, so maybe it was 50/50. It wasn't acid core, just hard to use, if I recall properly. At a garage sale a few years ago, I found a small roll of "IBM Brand" solder, I assume it was made by someone else and IBM put their brand on it. Too thick to be useful, it was a good mix though. Michael My first soldering iron was a poker in a coal fire. Can't remember where I got solder from, the local TV repair shop probably. -- ;-) . 73 de Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI - mine's a pint. . http://turner-smith.uk I can see my old man doing that ... |
60 / 40?
"Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message
... I can see my old man doing that ... Does he wear, "Gor Blimey! Trousers"? |
60 / 40?
"gareth" wrote in message ... "Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message ... I can see my old man doing that ... Does he wear, "Gor Blimey! Trousers"? no and we didn't live in a council flat either .... |
60 / 40?
"gareth" wrote in message
... "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message ... Keep your eyes out for some of the best solder ever made. It is Western Electric Nassau solder. Almost worth its weight in gold. Just ask anyone that is big in the audio field. It goes along with the oxygen free teflon insulated wire that goes from the hifi to the wall socket. :-) ? Yeah, I remember that. Some con artist was flogging a length of "special" mains cable, with a "special" 13 amp plug one end, and a "special" IEC kettle connector on the other for a very "special" price. http://www.the-missing-link.net/prod02.htm http://www.blackrhodium.co.uk/power.html -- ;-) .. 73 de Frank Turner-Smith G3VKI - mine's a pint. .. http://turner-smith.uk |
60 / 40?
"Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message
... "gareth" wrote in message ... "Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message ... I can see my old man doing that ... Does he wear, "Gor Blimey! Trousers"? no and we didn't live in a council flat either .... About 10 years ago, a 3-CD set of Lonnie Donegan's songs was released, and I count myself lucky to have a copy. |
60 / 40?
"gareth" wrote in
: "Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message ... "gareth" wrote in message ... "Jimbo in the Borders ..." wrote in message ... I can see my old man doing that ... Does he wear, "Gor Blimey! Trousers"? no and we didn't live in a council flat either .... About 10 years ago, a 3-CD set of Lonnie Donegan's songs was released, and I count myself lucky to have a copy. Why? Was there something special about it? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Albums-Singles- Donegan/dp/B00D2TRA18/ref=sr_1_3?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1449343278&sr=1-3 &keywords=lonnie+donegan |
60 / 40?
"gareth" Wrote in message:
I wonder how many are still using the 60 / 40 (lead / tin or tin / lead?) solder despite the Common Market (or whatver they call themselves these days) ruling that lead free must be used to the exclusion of all else? And how many are not using any solder at all because they are a variant of CBers and not actually _REAL_ radio amateurs? I prefer 63/37. It's not at all difficult to find. -- David Griffith -- Put my last name where it belongs. ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
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