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Suggestions for painting aluminum
Bill Turner wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Imeron; used on airplanes and a bit pricey. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
Bill Turner wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Imeron; used on airplanes and a bit pricey. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
Bill,
Best primer is zinc-chromate. There are some other tips and tricks but without a valid email address I can't go into detail. 73s, Evan |
Bill,
Best primer is zinc-chromate. There are some other tips and tricks but without a valid email address I can't go into detail. 73s, Evan |
"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Take yourself to your nearest general aviation airport (dont bother with a huge airline terminal airport - its way too damn difficult getting in) - find a maintenence company, they paint alumnium regularly. |
"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Take yourself to your nearest general aviation airport (dont bother with a huge airline terminal airport - its way too damn difficult getting in) - find a maintenence company, they paint alumnium regularly. |
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"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. |
"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. |
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:50:00 GMT, "Martin"
wrote: "Bill Turner" wrote in message .. . Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. |
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:50:00 GMT, "Martin"
wrote: "Bill Turner" wrote in message .. . Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. |
Paul Burridge wrote:
Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). I have bought it in the US. It is tough and good looking. -- John Popelish |
Paul Burridge wrote:
Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). I have bought it in the US. It is tough and good looking. -- John Popelish |
Bill Turner wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Most paint bonds well to aluminum oxide, if it is completely clean. I think the best oxide for paint adhesion is a porous chromate anodize, but thermal oxidation is very good, also. If the object can take the heat, Wipe it with paint thinner, let dry, and bake it in a hot oven (450 F) for an hour or so to evaporate or oxidize all traces of surface oil and provide a good surface oxide. Do not touch it with skin before painting. -- John Popelish |
Bill Turner wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Most paint bonds well to aluminum oxide, if it is completely clean. I think the best oxide for paint adhesion is a porous chromate anodize, but thermal oxidation is very good, also. If the object can take the heat, Wipe it with paint thinner, let dry, and bake it in a hot oven (450 F) for an hour or so to evaporate or oxidize all traces of surface oil and provide a good surface oxide. Do not touch it with skin before painting. -- John Popelish |
donutbandit wrote:
wrote in : Imeron; used on airplanes and a bit pricey. Imron is very special and pricy stuff. It requires a hardener and can frost up your lungs if you don't use the proper breathing apparatus. In other words, you die. It costs over $100 a gallon. I said it was pricey. As for the danger, lots of things related to amateur radio can be dangerous and can kill you. Working on a KW amplifier is dangerous and can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. Doing just about anything with a tower is dangerous and can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. The paint, just like the tower, comes with safety instructions. If someone is dumb enough to ignore safety instructions, well... I simply cannot believe that anyone would recommend this paint in this newsgroup for painting a bit of metal. Do you use rocket fuel in your car as well? You paint aluminum like any other metal. The poster didn't ask HOW to paint aluminum, he asked about tough, long lasting paint. Imeron is tough, long lasting paint. It seems that the Internet has invented something that could never have survived previously - the instant specialist. This person repeats any and all gossip, rumors and inuendo as if it's fact, with no experience whatsoever. What makes you think I have no experience with Imeron? Isn't it a bit condescending of you to decide what is too expensive or too dangerous for someone else to use? I credit the original poster with enough intelligence to make his own decisions on that. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
donutbandit wrote:
wrote in : Imeron; used on airplanes and a bit pricey. Imron is very special and pricy stuff. It requires a hardener and can frost up your lungs if you don't use the proper breathing apparatus. In other words, you die. It costs over $100 a gallon. I said it was pricey. As for the danger, lots of things related to amateur radio can be dangerous and can kill you. Working on a KW amplifier is dangerous and can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. Doing just about anything with a tower is dangerous and can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. The paint, just like the tower, comes with safety instructions. If someone is dumb enough to ignore safety instructions, well... I simply cannot believe that anyone would recommend this paint in this newsgroup for painting a bit of metal. Do you use rocket fuel in your car as well? You paint aluminum like any other metal. The poster didn't ask HOW to paint aluminum, he asked about tough, long lasting paint. Imeron is tough, long lasting paint. It seems that the Internet has invented something that could never have survived previously - the instant specialist. This person repeats any and all gossip, rumors and inuendo as if it's fact, with no experience whatsoever. What makes you think I have no experience with Imeron? Isn't it a bit condescending of you to decide what is too expensive or too dangerous for someone else to use? I credit the original poster with enough intelligence to make his own decisions on that. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:19:53 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? in UK there is a paint called Hammerite, you can get both "crincle" {similar to the finish as used on the AR88} or smooth. cost is about 3 quid ( six dollars US ) for a small can or for a spray cannister, the latter is easier to use but has less paint. It sticks well and can give a very professional finish. FWIW, Mike W -- |
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:19:53 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? in UK there is a paint called Hammerite, you can get both "crincle" {similar to the finish as used on the AR88} or smooth. cost is about 3 quid ( six dollars US ) for a small can or for a spray cannister, the latter is easier to use but has less paint. It sticks well and can give a very professional finish. FWIW, Mike W -- |
"Paul Burridge" wrote in message ... On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:50:00 GMT, "Martin" wrote: "Bill Turner" wrote in message .. . Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). -- It's available here. Their web page recommends use of their primer for aluminum. |
"Paul Burridge" wrote in message ... On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:50:00 GMT, "Martin" wrote: "Bill Turner" wrote in message .. . Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT I've gotten the best results by first washing with a strong detergent, drying, and then using fine steel wool (0000 grade), wiping with a tack cloth to pick up any steel wool and other dust, and then using a zinc chromate primer. Do youse guys in the US not have Hammerite paint? That's what we mostly use here in Britain. It's top-notch stuff. Needs no priming or special preparation at all; tough, durable, corrosion-resistant finish suitable for exterior metalwork in all climates. Good range of colours finishes and textures. And it's non-toxic. The only thing you need is the special thinner (only for cleaning brushes or spray equipment - not the application part). -- It's available here. Their web page recommends use of their primer for aluminum. |
John Popelish wrote in message ...
A number of years ago I picked up a pint of an acid, from NAPA Auto Parts, used to clean aluminum for painting. Once clean, I use epoxy appliance spray paint from the local hardware store. Bill Turner wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Most paint bonds well to aluminum oxide, if it is completely clean. I think the best oxide for paint adhesion is a porous chromate anodize, but thermal oxidation is very good, also. If the object can take the heat, Wipe it with paint thinner, let dry, and bake it in a hot oven (450 F) for an hour or so to evaporate or oxidize all traces of surface oil and provide a good surface oxide. Do not touch it with skin before painting. |
John Popelish wrote in message ...
A number of years ago I picked up a pint of an acid, from NAPA Auto Parts, used to clean aluminum for painting. Once clean, I use epoxy appliance spray paint from the local hardware store. Bill Turner wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? I have a small compressed air paint sprayer, and I'm wondering if automotive paint might be good, or perhaps something else? Mainly interested in black or shades of gray. What is the best primer for aluminum? -- Bill, W6WRT Most paint bonds well to aluminum oxide, if it is completely clean. I think the best oxide for paint adhesion is a porous chromate anodize, but thermal oxidation is very good, also. If the object can take the heat, Wipe it with paint thinner, let dry, and bake it in a hot oven (450 F) for an hour or so to evaporate or oxidize all traces of surface oil and provide a good surface oxide. Do not touch it with skin before painting. |
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:19:53 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? An alternative might be anodizing, which is a very durable and corrosion resistant finish. Some outfits which do anodizing will add your part in with a batch of other things with the same process, and it could be far less $$ than you think. Any surface treatment, anodizing, paint, or whatever: surface prep/cleaning is the key to a quality finish. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:19:53 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? An alternative might be anodizing, which is a very durable and corrosion resistant finish. Some outfits which do anodizing will add your part in with a batch of other things with the same process, and it could be far less $$ than you think. Any surface treatment, anodizing, paint, or whatever: surface prep/cleaning is the key to a quality finish. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote: I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. |
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote: I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. |
I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. |
I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. |
Paul Burridge wrote:
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery" wrote: I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. Cyanide based? Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air pump 30' away, hardly. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
Paul Burridge wrote:
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery" wrote: I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array, scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option. Why do you want to paint an antenna ? If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. Cyanide based? Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air pump 30' away, hardly. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
In article , wrote:
Cyanide based? Yup - isocyanates. Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air pump 30' away, hardly. According to the MSDS, some of the Dupont Imron paint formulations contain an isocyanate, or use an added isocyanate activator/hardener. This also seems to be true for some of the two-part "linear polyurethane" finishes from other manufacturers, as well. The isocyanates can cause a permanent sensitization of the lungs - a chemically-induced asthma. Think "Super-glue fumes, in giant industrial-sized portions" and you're probably in the right ballpark. For these formulas, the MSDS specifies the use of a positive-pressure, supplied-air respirator. Filter-type masks are not adequate. It looks as if some of the Imron paints don't use isocyanates, and an air-purifying respirator with organic-vapor filter cartridges is stated to be sufficient. http://www.bronkalla.com/upkeep/spray_imron.htm is interesting reading, written by a boat builder/refinisher who used used a clear Imron above the waterline. Sure looks as if this stuff is something to be _very_ careful with... read the MSDS, follow the instructions, observe all precautions, etc. The idea of shopping out the job to a local body-shop which is already set up for it is a good one, if you can find one in your area. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
In article , wrote:
Cyanide based? Yup - isocyanates. Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air pump 30' away, hardly. According to the MSDS, some of the Dupont Imron paint formulations contain an isocyanate, or use an added isocyanate activator/hardener. This also seems to be true for some of the two-part "linear polyurethane" finishes from other manufacturers, as well. The isocyanates can cause a permanent sensitization of the lungs - a chemically-induced asthma. Think "Super-glue fumes, in giant industrial-sized portions" and you're probably in the right ballpark. For these formulas, the MSDS specifies the use of a positive-pressure, supplied-air respirator. Filter-type masks are not adequate. It looks as if some of the Imron paints don't use isocyanates, and an air-purifying respirator with organic-vapor filter cartridges is stated to be sufficient. http://www.bronkalla.com/upkeep/spray_imron.htm is interesting reading, written by a boat builder/refinisher who used used a clear Imron above the waterline. Sure looks as if this stuff is something to be _very_ careful with... read the MSDS, follow the instructions, observe all precautions, etc. The idea of shopping out the job to a local body-shop which is already set up for it is a good one, if you can find one in your area. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
Paul Burridge wrote:
you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. Looks like the BBC's problem might be too much unlicensed amateur competition :-) -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Paul Burridge wrote:
you may need to check out the airplane paint. That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face, filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me. -- The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies. Looks like the BBC's problem might be too much unlicensed amateur competition :-) -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
"Roger Conroy" wrote in message ... "Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? Dip it in ferric chloride for a couple of seconds then rinse with water, it will then take paint perfectly. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN TOO LONG AND TAKE CARE. suggest doing this in an open space as it will react much faster than copper. |
"Roger Conroy" wrote in message ... "Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray can? Dip it in ferric chloride for a couple of seconds then rinse with water, it will then take paint perfectly. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN TOO LONG AND TAKE CARE. suggest doing this in an open space as it will react much faster than copper. |
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