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Magnet wire vs. enamelled copper wire
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire
73 LA8AK ---- Jan-Martin, LA8AK, N-4623 Kristiansand http://home.online.no/~la8ak/ |
Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very
thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space. Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding space. In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient. They are all magnet wire. |
Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very
thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space. Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding space. In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient. They are all magnet wire. |
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire
Jan-Martin- To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used. I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts. Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good source of enameled copper wire. 73, Fred, K4DII |
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire
Jan-Martin- To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used. I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts. Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good source of enameled copper wire. 73, Fred, K4DII |
Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bob wrote: Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space. Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding space. In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient. They are all magnet wire. |
Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bob wrote: Magnet wire is a generic term for wire intended for winding coils, with very thin insulation so as not to waste precious winding space. Enameled wire is simply one form of it, probably the most popular. Enamel is a lot thinner insulation than a plastic sheath so won't waste winding space. In the old days there were enameled, single cotton covered (SCC), double cotton covered (DCC), single silk covered, and some others. Today enamel is used as well as various plastics. One popular type melts away with a soldering iron, making stripping the end unnecessary, very convenient. They are all magnet wire. |
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out: http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp Kapton had been used for this also. But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But this is the luck of the draw. I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360 degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very high reliability equipment. Al -- There's never enough time to do it right the first time....... |
In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote: On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out: http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp Kapton had been used for this also. But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But this is the luck of the draw. I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360 degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very high reliability equipment. Al -- There's never enough time to do it right the first time....... |
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Fred McKenzie wrote:
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire Jan-Martin- To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used. I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts. Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good source of enameled copper wire. 73, Fred, K4DII Also old tv focus coils and deflection yokes. I've also torn up old transformers to rewind them and saved the wire. I've made a few filter chokes out of old filament transformers. I pull out the E I core pieces, unwind the secondary, and add more wire to the primary. Then I reassemble the core, with all the E pieces going the same way (single air gap since a choke see mostly DC). Radio Shack filament transformers are wound on a plastic bobbin which makes the job easier. I've gotten about 7-8 henrys out of these, good filter chokes for tube equipment. |
Fred McKenzie wrote:
wonder what is the difference between enam. cu wire and magnet wire Jan-Martin- To the best of my knowlege, the only difference is that you could use other kinds of insulation on wire to be used for magnets. In other words, enameled copper wire is one type of magnet wire. Other insulating materials such as cloth, fiberglass and asbestos have been used. I got started in electronics by tearing up discarded radios for their parts. Radios from the 1930s and 1940s had speakers that used an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet used in most of today's speakers. In additon to providing the speaker's magnetic field, the electromagnet acted as a filter choke inductor for the radio's power supply. Those old speakers were a good source of enameled copper wire. 73, Fred, K4DII Also old tv focus coils and deflection yokes. I've also torn up old transformers to rewind them and saved the wire. I've made a few filter chokes out of old filament transformers. I pull out the E I core pieces, unwind the secondary, and add more wire to the primary. Then I reassemble the core, with all the E pieces going the same way (single air gap since a choke see mostly DC). Radio Shack filament transformers are wound on a plastic bobbin which makes the job easier. I've gotten about 7-8 henrys out of these, good filter chokes for tube equipment. |
Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works. But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy enamelled wire some place Bill, N5NOB |
Gary S. wrote:
On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen wrote: Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that "enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it away from where you wish to solder. The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really serious is needed to remove it. The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the ventilation. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom I have found that putting the wire in a flame and then sanding it works. But, you are right it's very hard to get off. I wish I cound buy enamelled wire some place Bill, N5NOB |
"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message ... Bob gave a very good explanation. ..."enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bob wrote: There is/was also a type called something like "solder-ease". The spelling may be different and it may be a trade name. It was easily removed with the heat of a soldering iron. You just tried to solder it as usual and the insulating coating melted away after a few seconds. Search on that name...see it U get any hits. I didn't get any hits on: Soldereze soldereaze solderease solderese -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message ... Bob gave a very good explanation. ..."enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often used interchangeably. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bob wrote: There is/was also a type called something like "solder-ease". The spelling may be different and it may be a trade name. It was easily removed with the heat of a soldering iron. You just tried to solder it as usual and the insulating coating melted away after a few seconds. Search on that name...see it U get any hits. I didn't get any hits on: Soldereze soldereaze solderease solderese -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
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