Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

(I have always isolated with the otherwise-unused multi-megohm
resistors as stand-offs)

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016, gareth wrote:

The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

(I have always isolated with the otherwise-unused multi-megohm
resistors as stand-offs)

I think the first time I saw the notion of gluing pads of circuit board to
a larger piece of circuit board, they suggested a hot glue gun. Maybe
even just a slice of the glue, and the iron would heat it up enough, I
can't remember. The advantage is that it can be removed, if you need to
change things. But I'm sure I've had instances of hot glue coming undone
over the long term, so it may not be so good for permanent work.

The most success I've had with "crazy glue" is some types of plastic. It
seems less permanent on other materials than we are led to believe.

Michael

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

gareth wrote:
The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

It certainly will if you are soldering with hot water.


--
Jim Pennino

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Seems to depend on the
specific variety of cyanoacrylate glue you use, and whether you can
"get on and get off" the pad quickly when soldering. The "toughened"
cyanoacrylates, which have some rubber particles in the mix and remain
slightly flexible, might be less likely to "pop" due to thermal
stress.

I had DirtyPcbs.com make me up a set of "Manhattan-like" prototype
boards for small analog circuits. They're similar in style to a board
made with a pad cutter or core drill, but without the dust :-)

http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=... 9915ee9dd2ed
http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=... 929b455acecd

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

In message , Dave Platt
writes

The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Seems to depend on the
specific variety of cyanoacrylate glue you use, and whether you can
"get on and get off" the pad quickly when soldering. The "toughened"
cyanoacrylates, which have some rubber particles in the mix and remain
slightly flexible, might be less likely to "pop" due to thermal
stress.

I had DirtyPcbs.com make me up a set of "Manhattan-like" prototype
boards for small analog circuits. They're similar in style to a board
made with a pad cutter or core drill, but without the dust :-)

http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=...c3b4046cada 9
915ee9dd2ed
http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=...3b1e66cc69e 9
29b455acecd


I've made prototype ( and permanent) boards out of double sided PC with
orthogonal saw cuts through the top layer to create pads. You have to
drill and loop through the bottom layer for ground pads.

At work we used stick on strips of PCB for prototyping, which you could
snip to size, but I don't know where you buy it. The glue seemed to
resist heat.


Brian GM4DIJ
--
Brian Howie

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

"Brian Howie" wrote in message
...

I've made prototype ( and permanent) boards out of double sided PC with
orthogonal saw cuts through the top layer to create pads. You have to
drill and loop through the bottom layer for ground pads.

Interesting as I have about ten life times' supply of double sided, and
only a small amount of single sided.

(When the Kode company shut down in Calne, the then Devizes radio
club was invited to bring a lorry and take away as much as they could.)

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

On Sun, 14 Feb 2016, gareth wrote:

"Brian Howie" wrote in message
...

I've made prototype ( and permanent) boards out of double sided PC with
orthogonal saw cuts through the top layer to create pads. You have to
drill and loop through the bottom layer for ground pads.

Interesting as I have about ten life times' supply of double sided, and
only a small amount of single sided.

(When the Kode company shut down in Calne, the then Devizes radio
club was invited to bring a lorry and take away as much as they could.)

DOuble sided circuit board was easy to get here, at ham fests and at the
local "surplus" outlet. I seem to recall double sided was more common
than single sided, so I guess it wasn't a regional thing.

Michael

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

On Sun, 14 Feb 2016, Brian Howie wrote:

In message , Dave Platt
writes

The recommendation to use super-glue to stick down the
copper island pads seems to be at odds with the suggestion
that super-gluing of one's fingers can be cured with hot water.

Wouldn't the heat of soldering cause the super-glue to fail?

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Seems to depend on the
specific variety of cyanoacrylate glue you use, and whether you can
"get on and get off" the pad quickly when soldering. The "toughened"
cyanoacrylates, which have some rubber particles in the mix and remain
slightly flexible, might be less likely to "pop" due to thermal
stress.

I had DirtyPcbs.com make me up a set of "Manhattan-like" prototype
boards for small analog circuits. They're similar in style to a board
made with a pad cutter or core drill, but without the dust :-)

http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=...c3b4046cada 9
915ee9dd2ed
http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=...3b1e66cc69e 9
29b455acecd


I've made prototype ( and permanent) boards out of double sided PC with
orthogonal saw cuts through the top layer to create pads. You have to drill
and loop through the bottom layer for ground pads.

At work we used stick on strips of PCB for prototyping, which you could snip
to size, but I don't know where you buy it. The glue seemed to resist heat.

Wasnt' that expensive? I remember when that sort of thing was available,
the stuff I remember was intended for use with perfboard so the holes were
already there. But I don't think I ever tried it, which leaves me
thinking it wsa expensive.

Michael

Manhattan, Dead Bug construction?
 

In message ple.org,
Michael Black writes
On Sun, 14 Feb 2016, Brian Howie wrote:
I've made prototype ( and permanent) boards out of double sided PC
with orthogonal saw cuts through the top layer to create pads. You
have to drill and loop through the bottom layer for ground pads.

At work we used stick on strips of PCB for prototyping, which you
could snip to size, but I don't know where you buy it. The glue
seemed to resist heat.

Wasnt' that expensive? I remember when that sort of thing was
available, the stuff I remember was intended for use with perfboard so
the holes were already there. But I don't think I ever tried it, which
leaves me thinking it wsa expensive.

Well it wasn't me that was paying for it. It didn't have holes, but was
already divided into square pads. I'd never seen it outside work, but
thought it would be quite easy to make.

73 Brian GM4DIJ


--
Brian Howie