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CLinT June 1st 04 04:54 PM

Fluke meters?
 
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply

Kyle2 June 1st 04 10:56 PM

A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply




Kyle2 June 1st 04 10:56 PM

A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply




Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE June 2nd 04 04:15 PM

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply



I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike

Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE June 2nd 04 04:15 PM

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply



I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike

John Miles June 2nd 04 05:49 PM

In article ,
says...

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.


On the other hand, I almost reached the point of insanity with a brand-
new Fluke 65 IR thermometer awhile back, trying to measure my car's
exhaust header temperatures with it. Every time I held it at the
(extremely awkward) position and orientation needed to aim the laser at
any of the exhaust ports, it would shut itself off.

The only thing that stopped me from sending it back to Circuit
Specialists for a refund was the fact that it would *only* shut off when
used under the hood of the car. I could never reproduce the problem
anywhere else around the house.

The problem turned out to be EMI from the Electromotive HPV aftermarket
ignition system. (After turning the ignition off, the thermometer
stopped shutting down.) Caveat mensor.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

John Miles June 2nd 04 05:49 PM

In article ,
says...

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.


On the other hand, I almost reached the point of insanity with a brand-
new Fluke 65 IR thermometer awhile back, trying to measure my car's
exhaust header temperatures with it. Every time I held it at the
(extremely awkward) position and orientation needed to aim the laser at
any of the exhaust ports, it would shut itself off.

The only thing that stopped me from sending it back to Circuit
Specialists for a refund was the fact that it would *only* shut off when
used under the hood of the car. I could never reproduce the problem
anywhere else around the house.

The problem turned out to be EMI from the Electromotive HPV aftermarket
ignition system. (After turning the ignition off, the thermometer
stopped shutting down.) Caveat mensor.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

James Horn June 2nd 04 07:41 PM

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)

James Horn June 2nd 04 07:41 PM

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)

Ralph Mowery June 2nd 04 11:14 PM


"James Horn" wrote in message
...
Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)


Some of the cheep meters are fine for most home use. It is when you drop
them or accidently have them set for current or ohms while measuring voltage
you will notice the differance. Then again you can buy about 10 RS meters
for what a good Fluke will cost. It sure is hard to quit working long
enough to run to RS to get another meter while on a job that depends on
having a meter.




Ralph Mowery June 2nd 04 11:14 PM


"James Horn" wrote in message
...
Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)


Some of the cheep meters are fine for most home use. It is when you drop
them or accidently have them set for current or ohms while measuring voltage
you will notice the differance. Then again you can buy about 10 RS meters
for what a good Fluke will cost. It sure is hard to quit working long
enough to run to RS to get another meter while on a job that depends on
having a meter.




Tdonaly June 3rd 04 12:16 AM

James Horn wrote,

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.


Actually, RS does specify the accuracy of at least one multimeter in
the manual for that meter: the RS digital multimeter PN 22-812. I sure
wouldn't depend on a Radio Shack multimeter in a work environment, though.
The ruggedness just isn't there.
73,
Tom Donaly, KA6RUH



Tdonaly June 3rd 04 12:16 AM

James Horn wrote,

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.


Actually, RS does specify the accuracy of at least one multimeter in
the manual for that meter: the RS digital multimeter PN 22-812. I sure
wouldn't depend on a Radio Shack multimeter in a work environment, though.
The ruggedness just isn't there.
73,
Tom Donaly, KA6RUH



Ken Scharf June 3rd 04 02:45 AM

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply




I have a 'Heath by Fluke' model SM-77 which
works very well for me. It's not a true RMS
meter, which might be a problem for some though.
The newer models also measure capacitance and
frequency, but if all you want is a DMM this
one is fine. Fluke still makes this model,
under their own model number. (It's the
familiar narrow, tall meter with the 8 position
knob to the left side and 4 digit display).

I did manage to blow the low current fuse in the
meter (guess what, it comes with a spare fuse,
inside!). The 9 volt battery lasts forever
(think I've changed it twice in 20 years,
and one time was because I left the meter on
for a week straight!).

Ken Scharf June 3rd 04 02:45 AM

Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply




I have a 'Heath by Fluke' model SM-77 which
works very well for me. It's not a true RMS
meter, which might be a problem for some though.
The newer models also measure capacitance and
frequency, but if all you want is a DMM this
one is fine. Fluke still makes this model,
under their own model number. (It's the
familiar narrow, tall meter with the 8 position
knob to the left side and 4 digit display).

I did manage to blow the low current fuse in the
meter (guess what, it comes with a spare fuse,
inside!). The 9 volt battery lasts forever
(think I've changed it twice in 20 years,
and one time was because I left the meter on
for a week straight!).

Dr. Anton T. Squeegee June 3rd 04 04:17 AM

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, says...

Top-posting corrected -- Please don't top-post. See this link for
the reason why:
http://www.html-faq.com/etiquette/?toppost

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply


A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.


Perhaps. However, one thing that I've learned, after being in the
electronics/RF field for 25+ years, is that it is not wise to cut
corners on your test gear. It should be looked on as an investment as
opposed to an expense.

Fluke multimeters are, IMO, well worth the higher price for the
warranty, support, and how long they last.

Case in point: I bought an original model 77 back in 1984. Here it
is, 20 years later, and the thing is still with me and still working
great. I've checked its calibration three times in the entire time I've
had it (most recently, about two years ago), and it has always been
right on. I've gone through perhaps four batteries in that time as well.

Find me the "cheap one from Maplin or RS" that will compare to
that kind of durability and reliability, and I will cheerfully STFU.

Now, as to recommendations: Pretty much anything in the 20, 70, or
80 series will do nicely. Choose what you want based on what feature set
you want. Top of the line is, as I recall, the 87 series.

Be prepared to spend between $150-$400, depending on which model
you settle on.

Happy hunting.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

Dr. Anton T. Squeegee June 3rd 04 04:17 AM

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, says...

Top-posting corrected -- Please don't top-post. See this link for
the reason why:
http://www.html-faq.com/etiquette/?toppost

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply


A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
by not paying for a name.


Perhaps. However, one thing that I've learned, after being in the
electronics/RF field for 25+ years, is that it is not wise to cut
corners on your test gear. It should be looked on as an investment as
opposed to an expense.

Fluke multimeters are, IMO, well worth the higher price for the
warranty, support, and how long they last.

Case in point: I bought an original model 77 back in 1984. Here it
is, 20 years later, and the thing is still with me and still working
great. I've checked its calibration three times in the entire time I've
had it (most recently, about two years ago), and it has always been
right on. I've gone through perhaps four batteries in that time as well.

Find me the "cheap one from Maplin or RS" that will compare to
that kind of durability and reliability, and I will cheerfully STFU.

Now, as to recommendations: Pretty much anything in the 20, 70, or
80 series will do nicely. Choose what you want based on what feature set
you want. Top of the line is, as I recall, the 87 series.

Be prepared to spend between $150-$400, depending on which model
you settle on.

Happy hunting.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

Doug McLaren June 3rd 04 09:01 PM

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, Kyle2 wrote:

| A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
| by not paying for a name.

If you're on a tight budget, these things are hard to beat --

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...70&pricetype=S

Yes, three bucks. They won't hold a candle to a Fluke, but for doing
simple voltages or resistances, they're hard to beat. They're
accurate (at least the ones I've tested) within 1 or 2%, at least for
DC and AC voltage (I don't expect them to do accurate RMS readings on
non sinusoidal signals, however) and resistances.

They're cheap enough that you can dedicate them to a given operation
-- you need to know the voltage on your power battery all the time?
No problem -- just slap one of these on it.

Personally, I own like ten of these things, scattered throughout the
house and car, and a few better multi-meters for when I need them.

--
Doug McLaren,
Give a man a fire and he will be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and
he will be warm for the rest of his life.

Doug McLaren June 3rd 04 09:01 PM

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, Kyle2 wrote:

| A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
| by not paying for a name.

If you're on a tight budget, these things are hard to beat --

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...70&pricetype=S

Yes, three bucks. They won't hold a candle to a Fluke, but for doing
simple voltages or resistances, they're hard to beat. They're
accurate (at least the ones I've tested) within 1 or 2%, at least for
DC and AC voltage (I don't expect them to do accurate RMS readings on
non sinusoidal signals, however) and resistances.

They're cheap enough that you can dedicate them to a given operation
-- you need to know the voltage on your power battery all the time?
No problem -- just slap one of these on it.

Personally, I own like ten of these things, scattered throughout the
house and car, and a few better multi-meters for when I need them.

--
Doug McLaren,
Give a man a fire and he will be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and
he will be warm for the rest of his life.

J. McLaughlin June 4th 04 03:18 AM

I echo what Eike has said. I own and use an older 85 (also gave one to
a son to take to University). It works in all conditions including,
something especially important one would think to this group, in the
presence of a lot of RF.
The low resistance range has been invaluable. The sensitive AC
range allowed me with ease to tell if 240 VAC water heating elements
were operating by measuring the voltage across the straps going to the
elements. (Not between!) Recently, I used the capacitance feature to
verify that a control line was almost certainly open at its far end
(that was a long way up a hot tower).
Good tools pay! I can raise penny pinching to an art form, but I
use Klein safety harnesses, HP calculator, and Fluke meter. 73 Mac
N8TT
P.S. My answer to the question is to buy something in the 80 series.
--
J. Mc Laughlin - Michigan USA
Home:


"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate,

save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply



I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike



J. McLaughlin June 4th 04 03:18 AM

I echo what Eike has said. I own and use an older 85 (also gave one to
a son to take to University). It works in all conditions including,
something especially important one would think to this group, in the
presence of a lot of RF.
The low resistance range has been invaluable. The sensitive AC
range allowed me with ease to tell if 240 VAC water heating elements
were operating by measuring the voltage across the straps going to the
elements. (Not between!) Recently, I used the capacitance feature to
verify that a control line was almost certainly open at its far end
(that was a long way up a hot tower).
Good tools pay! I can raise penny pinching to an art form, but I
use Klein safety harnesses, HP calculator, and Fluke meter. 73 Mac
N8TT
P.S. My answer to the question is to buy something in the 80 series.
--
J. Mc Laughlin - Michigan USA
Home:


"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
Kyle2 wrote:
A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate,

save loads
by not paying for a name.

"CLinT" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

73 &
thanks for all replies,
CLinT

remove ... "SO" to reply



I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:
When measuring resistances in a cabinet with a running Variable
Frequency Drive I got nothing but house numbers with the feature
rich no-name-multimeter, that I was using by then. When using
a Fluke I got correct readings. The reason: The cheap MM was
sensitive to the RFI, which the VFD generated - the Fluke was
undisturbed by the massive RFI. That was the model 77 which
is old now. But you may find a used one as a bargain.
If you want to measure with strong RF-fields present then there
is a difference and you get what you pay for. TANSTAAFL.
If you go for bench meters also konsider used Keithleys and
BBC Metrawatt.

Kind regards, Eike



[email protected] June 4th 04 05:36 AM

Doug McLaren wrote:

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, Kyle2 wrote:

| A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
| by not paying for a name.

If you're on a tight budget, these things are hard to beat --

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...70&pricetype=S

Yes, three bucks. They won't hold a candle to a Fluke, but for doing
simple voltages or resistances, they're hard to beat. They're
accurate (at least the ones I've tested) within 1 or 2%, at least for
DC and AC voltage (I don't expect them to do accurate RMS readings on
non sinusoidal signals, however) and resistances.

They're cheap enough that you can dedicate them to a given operation
-- you need to know the voltage on your power battery all the time?
No problem -- just slap one of these on it.

Personally, I own like ten of these things, scattered throughout the
house and car, and a few better multi-meters for when I need them.



Right! They even come with the 9v battery included and they have a
transistor
test function, to boot. When you spend 3 dollars on a DMM, you're not
looking
for precision results. And you don't need a precision meter for most
measurements.
As a secondary meter, these 3 dollar things cannot be beat. When I
needed to
do 6 simultaneous measurements ( a DC-DC converter I made with dual
outputs -
I needed to measure voltage and current on the input, and voltage and
current on
both outputs) I bought 4 of them. They were more accurate than I
thought they
would be - and more accurate than I needed.

[email protected] June 4th 04 05:36 AM

Doug McLaren wrote:

In article FQ7vc.259$vK4.176@newsfe5-win, Kyle2 wrote:

| A cheap digital one from Maplin or RS will be just as accurate, save loads
| by not paying for a name.

If you're on a tight budget, these things are hard to beat --

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...70&pricetype=S

Yes, three bucks. They won't hold a candle to a Fluke, but for doing
simple voltages or resistances, they're hard to beat. They're
accurate (at least the ones I've tested) within 1 or 2%, at least for
DC and AC voltage (I don't expect them to do accurate RMS readings on
non sinusoidal signals, however) and resistances.

They're cheap enough that you can dedicate them to a given operation
-- you need to know the voltage on your power battery all the time?
No problem -- just slap one of these on it.

Personally, I own like ten of these things, scattered throughout the
house and car, and a few better multi-meters for when I need them.



Right! They even come with the 9v battery included and they have a
transistor
test function, to boot. When you spend 3 dollars on a DMM, you're not
looking
for precision results. And you don't need a precision meter for most
measurements.
As a secondary meter, these 3 dollar things cannot be beat. When I
needed to
do 6 simultaneous measurements ( a DC-DC converter I made with dual
outputs -
I needed to measure voltage and current on the input, and voltage and
current on
both outputs) I bought 4 of them. They were more accurate than I
thought they
would be - and more accurate than I needed.

Judy June 5th 04 07:09 AM

Hi Jim

Yes, I also prefer the Fluke meters. I own a bench and handheld model.

They have a lifetime warranty and are a good investment new or used.

Many good models available on ebay from the big tech sellers at a good price.

judy


James wrote:

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)



Judy June 5th 04 07:09 AM

Hi Jim

Yes, I also prefer the Fluke meters. I own a bench and handheld model.

They have a lifetime warranty and are a good investment new or used.

Many good models available on ebay from the big tech sellers at a good price.

judy


James wrote:

Fluke's DMMs do cost much more than generic ones. They guarantee accuracy
that the others can't touch. I've always been amused that Radio Shack and
many other inexpensive DMMs don't publish accuracy specifications.

If you want something for relative measurements (peaking, etc) and hobby
use, you have a wider field available. If you use it for a living and it
*has* to work - well, my Fluke 87 has served *me* wonderfully well. But
modern IC technology has certainly made a lot of capability available for
little cost elsewhere!

Jim WB9SYN/6 (Not affiliated with Fluke)



Fred McKenzie June 5th 04 02:50 PM

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

Clint-

I like the idea of having a couple of those cheap meters. I keep one in my
brief case and one I take with me on trips.

For the shop, I wanted something I could depend on, so back in about 1980 I
purchased a Fluke 8020A handheld digital multimeter. Soon after that the
display darkened. I purchased an upgraded display, installed it myself, and
have had no other problems since then.

Three years ago I bought a Fluke 8012A bench model digital multimeter at a
Hamfest for $40. It looked rough and was missing its power cord and probes.
With just probes and a new cord, it appears to be working perfectly. Comparing
it with the old 8020A, readings of various voltages and precision resistors
were identical, except for a 0.01 volt difference when reading a 13.8 volt
power supply. I know that the 8020A has never been calibrated since leaving
the factory.

About a year later I bought a Fluke 8050A bench model digital multimeter in
non-working condition, for $35. This model has one more digit of resolution
than the other two meters, and has true RMS on AC. The problem turned out to
be that it had dead internal batteries, and required the batteries to act as a
voltage regulator when operated on AC. Some slightly smaller batteries from
Radio Shack made it work. Again, it appears to be working perfectly. Voltage
and resistance readings agree with both other meters. (I forget which one of
the three was 0.01 volt off on 13.8!)

The moral of the story is that here are three meters approaching 25 years of
age, that have maintained their accuracy in spite of rough handling over the
years.

I would recommend any of the three models if you can find a used one. Of
course, you may find that someone has mis-calibrated it, so you need some
assurance it is still accurate. Perhaps you can scrape together a handful of
precision resistors and use them as a "standard".

If you want a more modern meter, the latest Flukes offer auto-ranging. The
early versions sacrificed some accuracy and were slow, but I understand more
recent models are better. However, I'm not willing to spend the money for
auto-ranging when my old fixed-range meters are so good!

73, Fred, K4DII


Fred McKenzie June 5th 04 02:50 PM

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

Clint-

I like the idea of having a couple of those cheap meters. I keep one in my
brief case and one I take with me on trips.

For the shop, I wanted something I could depend on, so back in about 1980 I
purchased a Fluke 8020A handheld digital multimeter. Soon after that the
display darkened. I purchased an upgraded display, installed it myself, and
have had no other problems since then.

Three years ago I bought a Fluke 8012A bench model digital multimeter at a
Hamfest for $40. It looked rough and was missing its power cord and probes.
With just probes and a new cord, it appears to be working perfectly. Comparing
it with the old 8020A, readings of various voltages and precision resistors
were identical, except for a 0.01 volt difference when reading a 13.8 volt
power supply. I know that the 8020A has never been calibrated since leaving
the factory.

About a year later I bought a Fluke 8050A bench model digital multimeter in
non-working condition, for $35. This model has one more digit of resolution
than the other two meters, and has true RMS on AC. The problem turned out to
be that it had dead internal batteries, and required the batteries to act as a
voltage regulator when operated on AC. Some slightly smaller batteries from
Radio Shack made it work. Again, it appears to be working perfectly. Voltage
and resistance readings agree with both other meters. (I forget which one of
the three was 0.01 volt off on 13.8!)

The moral of the story is that here are three meters approaching 25 years of
age, that have maintained their accuracy in spite of rough handling over the
years.

I would recommend any of the three models if you can find a used one. Of
course, you may find that someone has mis-calibrated it, so you need some
assurance it is still accurate. Perhaps you can scrape together a handful of
precision resistors and use them as a "standard".

If you want a more modern meter, the latest Flukes offer auto-ranging. The
early versions sacrificed some accuracy and were slow, but I understand more
recent models are better. However, I'm not willing to spend the money for
auto-ranging when my old fixed-range meters are so good!

73, Fred, K4DII


J M Noeding June 5th 04 05:43 PM

On 05 Jun 2004 13:50:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote:

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

Clint-

I like the idea of having a couple of those cheap meters. I keep one in my
brief case and one I take with me on trips.

For the shop, I wanted something I could depend on, so back in about 1980 I
purchased a Fluke 8020A handheld digital multimeter. Soon after that the
display darkened. I purchased an upgraded display, installed it myself, and
have had no other problems since then.

strange... believe I bought the 8020B already in 1980, but after a
while I had to put some paper under the pcb to push the contact harder
against the display to obtain proper reading. Still have some 8020B's
but they usually don't work properly too often.

One strange fault occurred when I tried to measure the booster voltage
in a tv set, the varistor for input protection blow, and I had to look
for some resistor-looking type. The resistance measurement wouldn't go
higher than 100-150k until the varistor was replaced

73
Jan-Martin
LA8AK

J M Noeding June 5th 04 05:43 PM

On 05 Jun 2004 13:50:36 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote:

I am considering purchasing a Fluke meter to do some
alignments & repairs here.
Can anyone reccomend a Fluke meter model or anothere brand model?

Clint-

I like the idea of having a couple of those cheap meters. I keep one in my
brief case and one I take with me on trips.

For the shop, I wanted something I could depend on, so back in about 1980 I
purchased a Fluke 8020A handheld digital multimeter. Soon after that the
display darkened. I purchased an upgraded display, installed it myself, and
have had no other problems since then.

strange... believe I bought the 8020B already in 1980, but after a
while I had to put some paper under the pcb to push the contact harder
against the display to obtain proper reading. Still have some 8020B's
but they usually don't work properly too often.

One strange fault occurred when I tried to measure the booster voltage
in a tv set, the varistor for input protection blow, and I had to look
for some resistor-looking type. The resistance measurement wouldn't go
higher than 100-150k until the varistor was replaced

73
Jan-Martin
LA8AK

Rex June 7th 04 07:12 AM

On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:15:29 -0400, "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE"
wrote:

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:

[snip]

They are good.

For what it is worth, I bought a big Fluke 5 1/2 digit 8520A ten or
more years back used. It is still going strong. I hardly ever use some
of its fancy features, but I do use 4-wire resistance sometimes. It is
hardly portable (rack mount size) but great on the bench.

Here's a story about its resistance to abuse:

At some flea market I once acquired some strange glass encapsulated
resistors. They were at least an inch long and very high resistance
(100Mohm or more as I recall). It occured to me I could use one or two
to make a nice HV probe. So I built a divider inside a plastic tube. I
found a HV dc/dc supply in my junk that I think was in the 1-2 kv
range. I turned it on, and tried measuring with my new probe plugged
into my Fluke. The plastic tube was clear, and to by horror, when I
touched the probe on the HV the glass resistor lit up. (I'm guessing
they were gas filled to do this on purpose, but I really have no clue
why it happened -- the voltage should not have jumped the gap in air.)

So as I see this happening in the probe, I hear the Fluke make strange
unpleasant clicking noises. I look over at my favorite meter and the
display is now in Klingon. With great sadness I power cycle the meter
and to my amazement the meter looks fine. I have never seen any
indication that anything was permanently injured. Try that with a
cheapo meter.

Not that I have anything against the cheap ones -- I have several.

Rex June 7th 04 07:12 AM

On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:15:29 -0400, "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE"
wrote:

I prefer a Fluke anyway. This is why:

[snip]

They are good.

For what it is worth, I bought a big Fluke 5 1/2 digit 8520A ten or
more years back used. It is still going strong. I hardly ever use some
of its fancy features, but I do use 4-wire resistance sometimes. It is
hardly portable (rack mount size) but great on the bench.

Here's a story about its resistance to abuse:

At some flea market I once acquired some strange glass encapsulated
resistors. They were at least an inch long and very high resistance
(100Mohm or more as I recall). It occured to me I could use one or two
to make a nice HV probe. So I built a divider inside a plastic tube. I
found a HV dc/dc supply in my junk that I think was in the 1-2 kv
range. I turned it on, and tried measuring with my new probe plugged
into my Fluke. The plastic tube was clear, and to by horror, when I
touched the probe on the HV the glass resistor lit up. (I'm guessing
they were gas filled to do this on purpose, but I really have no clue
why it happened -- the voltage should not have jumped the gap in air.)

So as I see this happening in the probe, I hear the Fluke make strange
unpleasant clicking noises. I look over at my favorite meter and the
display is now in Klingon. With great sadness I power cycle the meter
and to my amazement the meter looks fine. I have never seen any
indication that anything was permanently injured. Try that with a
cheapo meter.

Not that I have anything against the cheap ones -- I have several.


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