Metric PL259?
 

Another contributor, "Jeff", has intimated that PL259's
are available in metric form.

Is this true?

If so, how does one find out which version of the SO239
is fitted to equipment?

Is the modern (say, more recent than 10 years old) Jap
gear fitted with these later plugs?

When one buys plugs and sockets from the rallies, which
ones is one getting?

Presumably there's no such thing as metric plugs in Yankland?

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Another contributor, "Jeff", has intimated that PL259's
are available in metric form.

Is this true?

If so, how does one find out which version of the SO239
is fitted to equipment?

Is the modern (say, more recent than 10 years old) Jap
gear fitted with these later plugs?

When one buys plugs and sockets from the rallies, which
ones is one getting?

Presumably there's no such thing as metric plugs in Yankland?


I recall buying a diamond dual band antenna and having to buy a metric pl
295 plug at the time so maybe there are two types.

Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?

Unfortunately the Diamond colinear to replace the 5/8ths suffered
from the same problem, and the cable is jammed solidly onto the
antenna, so we may be stuck with it! I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!

I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.

"Walt Davidson" wrote in message
...
"Some cautions: Japan has a
UHF connector that has a slightly
different thread size than the standard
SO-239 (which has a 0.625-
24NEF-2A thread.) This metric
threaded connector is found on nonexport
Japanese ham equipment.
A PL-259 will fit on this connector,
but will only thread on for a few
turns leaving the shield connection
loose and creating an undesirable
condition. MCM sells a UHF bulkhead
connector (#27-220) with the
proper thread that replaces the
most common of these ******* connectors."

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 10:01:45 +0100, "Peter" wrote:

I recall buying a diamond dual band antenna and having to buy a metric pl
295 plug at the time so maybe there are two types.

There are. Metric M4 PL259/SO39.

Don't know how you tell the difference other than
by trial and error. PLs don't usually have any
distinguishing markings.

--

|
\_| [] [_ |

Best viewed in Ebriated.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!


Ho, Ho, Ho

Yet another fettling experiment that went wrong!
I'm so glad that I'm only a beginer, and not an expert like yourself...

Airy R. Bean wrote:

Another contributor, "Jeff", has intimated that PL259's
are available in metric form.

Is this true?

If so, how does one find out which version of the SO239
is fitted to equipment?

Is the modern (say, more recent than 10 years old) Jap
gear fitted with these later plugs?

When one buys plugs and sockets from the rallies, which
ones is one getting?

Presumably there's no such thing as metric plugs in Yankland?


The term "PL259" grew out of a military spec. You may have a metric
connector that _resembles_ a PL259 but it ain't a PL259.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.

Stupid Boy.

"mexico_zero" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.

Stupid boy.

It may be 'the standard' in your chicken shed but is most certainly not
the
done thing elsewhere!! I recommend a trip to your local library to
research
the concept of screw threads. Let me know how you get on....

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message ...
Another contributor, "Jeff", has intimated that PL259's
are available in metric form.

Is this true?

If so, how does one find out which version of the SO239
is fitted to equipment?

Is the modern (say, more recent than 10 years old) Jap
gear fitted with these later plugs?


When one buys plugs and sockets from the rallies, which
ones is one getting?

Presumably there's no such thing as metric plugs in Yankland?


Interesting - and answered in some of the less abusive postings
further down (thank you) - had the same experience, I bought a heap of
pre-made patch leads with PL259 plugs each end, but they wouldnt screw
down to all the so239 sockets in the workshop - didnt really think
about it, just put it down to lousy quality control (they were only $2
each) so binned them. Never knew there were two standards before.....
73 de VK3BFA Andrew

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.

Been licenced since '87, am capable of 12wpm+ CW, been working in the
aerospace industry since '85. I forgive your misjudgements but must advise
you to stop signing off as 'Stupid Boy'. You're just a little 'restricted'
with your engineering intelligence but don't worry, it'll come with time. I
believe there are engineering newsgroups also avaialable to assist your
learning...

Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?

"mexico_zero" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.
Stupid boy.
It may be 'the standard' in your chicken shed but is most certainly not
the
done thing elsewhere!! I recommend a trip to your local library to
research
the concept of screw threads. Let me know how you get on....

With your insistence on emitting
rather silly and childish remarks perhaps you
are, in reality, a CBer-Masquerading-As-A-Radio-Ham
at best?

Stupid boy.

"mexico_zero" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.
Been licenced since '87, am capable of 12wpm+ CW, been working in the
aerospace industry since '85. I forgive your misjudgements but must advise
you to stop signing off as 'Stupid Boy'. You're just a little 'restricted'
with your engineering intelligence but don't worry, it'll come with time.
I
believe there are engineering newsgroups also avaialable to assist your
learning...

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?


Ok, as a straight answer, it was unwise to force the thread, but you knew
that already. If there was any foreign body to restrict the threads,
excessive force would only serve to damage the components. Such tactics are
truly 'last resort' to get you home in an emergency. If you're sure the
threads are clean and compatable then the application of a lubricant may
help. I often find this with dissimilar metals, titanium being a major
culprit for 'grabbing' dry inserts.

....HTH...

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.
Tufnell is a very lossy dielectric when used outdoors.

Steve H


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.736 / Virus Database: 490 - Release Date: 09/08/04

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.

Stupid boy.


You can tighten slightly the nut on the screw then tap the around sides of
the nut freeing off the thread. next tighten down again and repeat until
sufficiant thread is compatible with the nut.

BTW... don't change the nut for another.

KW

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?


Actually, it is you who is sneering 'n' jeering. As is the norm.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I recommend for you a study scheme for the full Ham Radio
licence, because there is then a remote (because of your demonstrated
CBness below) chance that you will come across the gentlemanly
traditions of Ham Radio.


Advice you could well heed yourself.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.


Not to the extent that you fettle it.

Correct practice is, wire brush away corrosion if heavy, lubricate, turn the
nut, back off the nut, turn, back off, etc.

However, materials in the antennas your refer to rarely corrode if not used.

Face the truth Gareth, you just screwed it. Didn't you. Just like
Westinghouse.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?


When was the last time you did any real engineering. Metric threads are the
norm these days. Have been for ages.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?

Unfortunately the Diamond colinear to replace the 5/8ths suffered
from the same problem, and the cable is jammed solidly onto the
antenna, so we may be stuck with it! I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!

Why would a new connector be so dirty?

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for that, Walt - perhaps now is the time to scream
about "grey" imports if these were intended only for the internal
Japanese Market?

Unfortunately the Diamond colinear to replace the 5/8ths suffered
from the same problem, and the cable is jammed solidly onto the
antenna, so we may be stuck with it! I assumed that the lower part of the
SO239's screw thread was dirty and so drove the nut home with a
pair of pliers, assuming that this would clear the screw thread - we live
and learn!

I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.


I see another Gareth disaster.

Do you know that Paxolin and Tufnol are not the same thing and both likely
to be lossey if used outside?

In article , Airy R. Bean
writes
I assumed that the lower part of the SO239's screw thread was dirty and
so drove the nut home with a pair of pliers, assuming that this would
clear the screw thread - we live and learn!

I warning to those who need it; if an RF connector is "dirty", clean it,
do not leave the dirt to cause trouble.
--
Ian G8ILZ

So you agree with me, but you needed a channel
to vent your emotion? Not really what Ham Radio is
all about OM, more to be expected from a radio hobby
on 11m.

"mexico_zero" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
Do you wish to contribute to the discussion as a mature
Radio Ham and outline your procedure for the same
problem, or do you wish to be condemned forever
as a childish CBer sneering 'n' jeering from the sidelines?
Ok, as a straight answer, it was unwise to force the thread, but you knew
that already. If there was any foreign body to restrict the threads,
excessive force would only serve to damage the components. Such tactics
are
truly 'last resort' to get you home in an emergency. If you're sure the
threads are clean and compatable then the application of a lubricant may
help. I often find this with dissimilar metals, titanium being a major
culprit for 'grabbing' dry inserts.

What I do is half a turn, back a quarter, and then repeat,
rather in the style of tapping a screw thread, using Rocol
also in the same style.

In this case, after 3 1/2 turns I reached the obstruction,
and retracted to examine. There didn't appear to be any obstruction
in the thread, although it was difficult to see because it was down
an aluminium tunnel, and so I applied greater force for the next
half turn, at which point it jammed up, and so reference to
this NG!

Odd that even a direct practical and technical question such
as this matter brought so many of the resident CB types out
of the wood work to sneer 'n' jeer on the sidelines. Their
behaviour in this public forum perhaps does more to create
a bad press for HamRadio and to lower the standards
than they perhaps realise?

"KW" wrote in message
...
"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty
screw but neither the tap nor the die for the thread
to drive a nut against the corrosion.
You can tighten slightly the nut on the screw then tap the around sides of
the nut freeing off the thread. next tighten down again and repeat until
sufficiant thread is compatible with the nut.
BTW... don't change the nut for another.

In article , Airy R. Bean
writes
It is standard practice when you have a tight/rusty screw but neither
the tap nor the die for the thread to drive a nut against the
corrosion.

It is stupid practice with any RF co-axial connector, you do NOT want
corrosion in the signal path.
--
Ian G8ILZ

Children,

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Take this into the bathroom, and don't come back out to the
group until you've settled things.

"Joe Bramblett, KD5NRH" wrote in message
.. .
Children,

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8 9 10
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Take this into the bathroom, and don't come back out to the
group until you've settled things.


Well said Joe, same applies to the "Windows 98 CD" thread. How come
technical threads are never so long?

--
Brian Reay
www.g8osn.org.uk
www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk
FP#898

And more recently have obtained some offcuts
of 40mm nylon round rod from a local engineering
works.

"Airy R. Bean" wrote in message
...
I'm now well on the way to repairing the 5/8ths where I had to
engage in destructive test - I've been given a large sheet of
Paxolin/Tufnol which is 7/8ths of an inch thick, so 3 thicknesses
of that araldited together and turned down should do the
trick.