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Plexi, Lexan or ???
No, you don't keep it in a "bath" of kerosene. Just take an eyedropper
containing kerosene and put a few drops right where the drill contacts the glass. Replenish as needed. "Heinz Schnait" wrote in message y.telekom.at... john graesser wrote: I seem to recall someone mentioning in the past that glass can be drilled if it was kept in a bath of kerosene, and drilled while submerged. thanks, John. KC5DWD Keep a fire extinguisher ready, when you do this! I would not dare... 73 Heinz, OE5EEP |
Plexi, Lexan or ???
Let's talk methodology in the cutting of a decently clean hole. Get a piece
of plywood that is slightly larger than the piece of plexi or whatever you are going to work on. Get a couple of C clamps also. Now, lay the plexi on top of the plywood, and clamp the whole thing onto the workbench with the C clamps. (This is why it's better to cut the plexi to size afterwards, since you will have an extra edge to clamp to, so you dont care if you mar it with the clamps.) You can then drill the holes fairly accurately, without making a big mess. Stability of the work pieces is of paramount importance here, if you want a quality job. Another trick commonly used in the woodworking shop to reduce rough edges around the hole is to lay another piece of plywood on TOP of the plexi before drilling it. This reduces the "tear out" and melting around the edges of the hole. Drill small 1/8 inch guide holes in the exact centers of where you want the holes FIRST. This will tend to stabilize and center the hole saw when starting the hole. If you have a router and circle cutter attachment around the shop, then you can neatly sidestep the entire "hole saw and driill" debacle, since the router, with a straight bit , will cut a MUCH cleaner hole than any hole saw.. Just drill the centering holes, and put the circle cutter on there, and cut the hole, routing out about 1/8 inch of depth on each turn. No burning, no melting. (Clockwise rotation, please) The same discussion on clamping applies here, also. The difference here is that you dont have to apply any pressure to the router when cutting, like you would with a hole saw. The router actually cuts the material out of it's way as it goes. Very little, if any, dressing of the hole edges will be needed afterwards. "Rick Mintz" wrote in message ... Hi. I am building an amp and will be using a clear plastic over the front panel graphics. I could use some help in choosing the material, such as Plexi or Lexan. Since I will be drilling couple of 2" holes to mount panel meters, I need some suggestions for which material is the best to work with. A hole saw in Plexi is prone to crack and maybe there is a better choice. There also may be a better method for creating the holes than a standard hole saw. Suggestions??? de Rick W1TY Email: |
Plexi, Lexan or ???
john graesser enscribed:
I seem to recall someone mentioning in the past that glass can be drilled if it was kept in a bath of kerosene, and drilled while submerged. thanks, John. Having the sheet of glass submerged while drilling dampens out the shock waves and helps to prevent shattering. However, I don't see what the special attraction would be for using Kerosene. Plain old water works just fine. Just make sure you use the correct type of drill bit and a nice slow cutting speed. Kerosene is not significantly more viscous than water, so if you want to really damp things out I'd use a heavy grade lube oil, maybe a 20-50 grade motor oil. Far less flammable, as well. 73 Alf NU8I Scottsdale AZ DM43an |
Plexi, Lexan or ???
"Alfred Green" wrote in message news:UIh_f.345$zf6.180@fed1read08... john graesser enscribed: I seem to recall someone mentioning in the past that glass can be drilled if it was kept in a bath of kerosene, and drilled while submerged. However, I don't see what the special attraction would be for using Kerosene. Plain old water works just fine. Just make sure you use the correct type of drill bit and a nice slow cutting speed. Kerosene is not significantly more viscous than water, so if you want to really damp things out I'd use a heavy grade lube oil, maybe a 20-50 grade motor oil. My experience with Lexan is that oils and/or solvents will cause it to become very brittle and crack at any machined edges, including drilled holes. - Bob W7OV |
Plexi, Lexan or ???
Bob Headrick wrote:
"Alfred Green" wrote in message news:UIh_f.345$zf6.180@fed1read08... john graesser enscribed: I seem to recall someone mentioning in the past that glass can be drilled if it was kept in a bath of kerosene, and drilled while submerged. However, I don't see what the special attraction would be for using Kerosene. Plain old water works just fine. Just make sure you use the correct type of drill bit and a nice slow cutting speed. Kerosene is not significantly more viscous than water, so if you want to really damp things out I'd use a heavy grade lube oil, maybe a 20-50 grade motor oil. My experience with Lexan is that oils and/or solvents will cause it to become very brittle and crack at any machined edges, including drilled holes. The _easy_ way to drill glass is to use a piece of copper tubing with hole-size for its OD, some powered carborundum as an abrasive, and just enough water to keep it in a slurry. Use a drill press, low RPMs, and light pressure. -- Mike Andrews, W5EGO Tired old sysadmin |
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