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James barrett November 27th 07 08:56 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the
information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such
against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in
researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power
supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I
would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere
that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground.
But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the
article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif

Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?

I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

Jim


Dave Heil[_2_] November 28th 07 01:46 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
James Barrett wrote:

Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?

I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.


Jim,

You'll see numerous references on the web to "single point ground." It
is very, very important stuff. I got nailed on this stuff back in
August, 2003. Here's how it played out:

We had a violent thunderstorm early one morning about 7 A.M. Suddenly
there were three near strikes (simultaneous lightning and thunder)
within a ten second time frame. In addition to telephones, computers
and home entertainment equipment, my four month old Ten-Tec Orion and
numberous shack accessories were zapped. My house ground is a single 8
foot copper plated ground rod. The lightning ground for the shack was
an identical ground rod driven about thirty feet away from the house ground.

When the strikes conducted a surge into my home via the power lines, all
three wires had very high voltage on them. The shack ground was still
at its usual potential (0). The house ground was elevated to high
voltage. There was a potential difference between the shack ground the
the house ground. That potential quickly equalized inside my equipment.

Ten-Tec reported that six boards inside the Orion had their ground
traces evaporated.

For a shack ground, you want the shortest possible distance between your
rig and earth. The house ground will be as close as possible to your
electrical service entrance. If, like me, you have to use two ground
rods, you need to bond the two of them together with a big, fat wire so
that the two can never be at different potentials.

If you have a tower, I'll assume that you have at least one 8 foot
ground rod driven at its base. Bond your coaxial cable sheaths to the
rod at the tower. The sheaths should also be bonded to your shack ground.

Dave Heil K8MN


konstans November 28th 07 03:21 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 

"James Barrett" wrote in message
...
Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the
information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such
against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in
researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power
supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I
would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere
that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground.
But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the
article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif

Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?

I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

Jim

my own experence is that using the household ground at hf is marginal at
best

my own result were greatly inproved with aan extrenal seperat e ground



Joaquin Tall[_2_] November 29th 07 12:34 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Hi James,

There are several good articles at the www.eham site on this very subject.
If you can read between the lines of some of the muck slinging, you can come
up with several really good solutions.

Just click on the "view more articles" link [at the top of the horizontal
green separator] HTH.

Alain



"James Barrett" wrote in message
...
Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the
information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such
against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in
researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power
supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I
would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere
that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground.
But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the
article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif

Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?

I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

Jim




Michael Coslo November 29th 07 05:09 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Joaquin Tall wrote:
Hi James,

There are several good articles at the www.eham site on this very subject.
If you can read between the lines of some of the muck slinging, you can come
up with several really good solutions.

Just click on the "view more articles" link [at the top of the horizontal
green separator] HTH.

Alain



"James Barrett" wrote in message
...
Hi, I did some searches on google for grounding, but all the
information I have found talks about grounding antennas and such
against lightning strikes. But the grounding I am interested in
researching is the type of ground I would use on my HF radio, power
supply, and antenna tuner. I haven't grounded anything yet, but I
would like to. I seem to have a hazy recollection of reading somewhere
that I should use copper braid and connect it to the house ground.
But during my search I found this image (which basically sums up the
article it came from ) http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/kuby/image16.gif

Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?

I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.


There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and
there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term
"ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention.

Dealing with the Power ground, you'll want to tie the grounds on the
back of your radios/tuners/amplifiers together. There are a number of
ways to do this. Some folks construct a copper ground plane that has
wires running to it from the equipment needing grounded.

Another possibility is wiring to the grounding bars such as are used for
electrical service. This is the method I use.

Whatever method used, short wires are better working practice.

I'll just go over my own setup as beyond the grounding bar, you'll get a
lot of opinions on what is right. I run heavy gauge wire out to a 8 foot
copper pipe embedded about 7.5 feet into the ground, and have ground
clamps to attach it. Braid is good too.

Some other thoughts:

I install the pipe hydrostatically - I sweat a garden hose adapter onto
the copper pipe, attach a hose to it, and let 'er rip (hopefully no
disclaimers needed here) The water digs a hole for the pipe, which then
sinks into it. It's fun

some folks ground to a water pipe. Not a good idea, as modern plumbing
does not always have continuity - there might be a piece of PVC in the
line somewhere.

I have my Arrester going to that pipe also. I'm using a "spark gap" type
arrester, but I would really recommend one of the gas discharge types.
They are quick to respond, and better protection in general.

Hope this helps.

- 73 de Mike N3LI -


[email protected] November 30th 07 01:30 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
On Nov 27, 8:46 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
James Barrett wrote:
Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?


I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.


Jim,

You'll see numerous references on the web to "single point ground." It
is very, very important stuff. I got nailed on this stuff back in
August, 2003. Here's how it played out:

We had a violent thunderstorm early one morning about 7 A.M. Suddenly
there were three near strikes (simultaneous lightning and thunder)
within a ten second time frame. In addition to telephones, computers
and home entertainment equipment, my four month old Ten-Tec Orion and
numberous shack accessories were zapped. My house ground is a single 8
foot copper plated ground rod. The lightning ground for the shack was
an identical ground rod driven about thirty feet away from the house ground.

When the strikes conducted a surge into my home via the power lines, all
three wires had very high voltage on them. The shack ground was still
at its usual potential (0). The house ground was elevated to high
voltage. There was a potential difference between the shack ground the
the house ground. That potential quickly equalized inside my equipment.

Ten-Tec reported that six boards inside the Orion had their ground
traces evaporated.

For a shack ground, you want the shortest possible distance between your
rig and earth. The house ground will be as close as possible to your
electrical service entrance. If, like me, you have to use two ground
rods, you need to bond the two of them together with a big, fat wire so
that the two can never be at different potentials.


This whole topic area seems to be eternally confused and confusing and
I'm in the parade of the confused. On a common sense basis I
absolutely agree with your connecting the station grounds to the
'lectric service entrance ground for the reasons you've stated.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.

So is it legal to connect a phalanx of ham station ground rods to the
service entrance ground?? Or not.

If you have a tower, I'll assume that you have at least one 8 foot
ground rod driven at its base. Bond your coaxial cable sheaths to the
rod at the tower. The sheaths should also be bonded to your shack ground.

Dave Heil K8MN


w3rv


Dave Platt November 30th 07 02:39 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
In article ,
wrote:

This whole topic area seems to be eternally confused and confusing and
I'm in the parade of the confused. On a common sense basis I
absolutely agree with your connecting the station grounds to the
'lectric service entrance ground for the reasons you've stated.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.

So is it legal to connect a phalanx of ham station ground rods to the
service entrance ground?? Or not.


As I understand it, according to the NEC, you must have only one
grounding *system* per building. This system may include two or more
ground rods, and/or a bare grounding wire buried in a trench around
the outside of the building. The ground rods and wires must be
securely bonded together with heavy-gauge wire... that's what ensures
that it's all one grounding "system".

What's dangerous is, as has been suggested, having separate grounding
rods (or grounding subsystems) which aren't well-bonded together. If
you connect any electrical apparatus to two such grounding points
(e.g. ham radio with a third-prong ground on its line cord, which is
also tied to a separate ground rod via the coax feedline), and a
lightning strike or a hot-to-ground fault occurs, your electrical
apparatus and its wiring can end up carrying a lot of current between
the ground points, thus creating a shock or fire hazard.

The bonding wires create a low-impedance path for such fault currents,
minimizing the voltage differential which exists between the ground
rods and thus helping keep down the flow of fault current through
undesired paths (e.g. your ham rig).

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!


James Barrett November 30th 07 03:25 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Michael Coslo wrote:
There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and
there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term
"ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention.


The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean
by "RF ground"? The type of ground I was asking about is the ground
terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There
is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a
ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong
power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and
power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground? Because I
thought that the power ground was the three prong plug.


Jim


Dave Platt November 30th 07 07:08 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
In article ,
James Barrett wrote:

The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean
by "RF ground"? The type of ground I was asking about is the ground
terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There
is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a
ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong
power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and
power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground? Because I
thought that the power ground was the three prong plug.


The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe
path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the
neutral and hot are bonded together). This ensures that if there's a
fault inside the equipment, and a "hot" wire touches the chassis, the
stray current will immediately flow back to the panel via this ground
connection (and likely cause a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip very
quickly). It ensures that you don't end up with a chassis which is
"hot", and isolated from ground... just waiting for somebody to touch
it, accidentally complete a path to ground via their body, and get
themselves mildly dead.

The intent of the ground terminal on the back of the radio is to let
you tie the radio chassis to a good RF ground, so that if any RF
reaches the chassis via conduction (e.g. coming back down the
feedline) it doesn't leave you with a chassis which is RF-hot compared
to grounded objects nearby (this could cause an RF burn if you touch
the chassis, or sneak back into the microphone wiring and cause weird
squawking sounds when you transmit). It's also necessary if you plan
to use a random-wire or similar unbalanced antenna which is designed
to work against the station ground (e.g. radials or counterpoises).

It's normally the practice to bond *all* of the equipment in your
shack together with good (short, heavy) grounding wire or braid...
once again, ensuring that different pieces of equipment have their
chassis at the same (or nearly the same) AC and RF potential. By
doing so, you are in effect bonding together your power/safety ground,
and your station RF ground, creating a single ground system.

Because this in-the-station ground bonding isn't really designed to
handle massive amounts of fault current (e.g. from lighting) and since
it's in an area where you really don't want such fault current to flow
(e.g. your shack), it's still important to bond your station's "RF
ground" rod, and your house's service-panel ground rod, together as
per NEC.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!


Michael Coslo November 30th 07 02:15 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
James Barrett wrote:
Michael Coslo wrote:
There are two grounds for your radio system. There is an RF ground, and
there is a power ground. They aren't the same, and even the term
"ground" is a little nebulous. But it is convention.


The is probably the biggest point of confusion for me. What do you mean
by "RF ground"?


It is confusing, so you're not alone.

RF grounds can be related to Power grounds, but only so far. On say a
ground plane antenna, where you have a vertical center rod connected to
the coax center conductor, and some angled rods connected to the coax
shield, those angled rods are serving as a ground plane. They aren't
connected to actual earth.

This is where a lot of the confusion comes in. The ground plane is more
of a counterpoise, or to look at it as a circuit, a place for the other
part of the current to go.

Now if we look at say a vertical HF antenna of the 1/4 wave variety,
typically this antenna will have "grounding" by way of many radial
lengths of wire that are either buried in the earth at a shallow depth,
or even just stapled to the surface of the earth.

This is "Kind of-sort of" like a power ground, in that it is in the
earth, but its doing something different. It is operating very similarly
to that ground plane. It gives the RF current a place to go.

I didn't go into things like impedence to avoid confusing the issue, but
that would be next in the discussion.



The type of ground I was asking about is the ground
terminal on the back of my radio,not the three prong power plug. There
is the ground terminal on the back of my radio and there is also a
ground terminal on my power supply, even though both have three prong
power plugs. So, are the ground terminals on the back of my radio and
power supply called RF ground, or are the called Power ground?


The ground terminals on your equipment are part of the power ground,
that you would attach to the pipe in the yard. Explanation of that
below. Any RF ground would be considered to be on the shield of the coax
connectors.

Because I
thought that the power ground was the three prong plug.


Yes, generally. One of the reasons that we put in a separate ground rod
from house ground for a power ground is that there can be currents on it
after going around the house. It's still mostly neutral, but with
hundreds of feet of that green wire running around the house, you can
still get some currents.


Some people can "get away with" not having a station power ground.
Kinda. I highly recommend one especially for some place to send your
lightning protection.

- 73 de Mike N3LI -


Michael Coslo November 30th 07 02:16 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Dave Platt wrote:

The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe
path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the
neutral and hot are bonded together). This ensures that if there's a
fault inside the equipment, and a "hot" wire touches the chassis, the
stray current will immediately flow back to the panel via this ground
connection (and likely cause a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip very
quickly). It ensures that you don't end up with a chassis which is
"hot", and isolated from ground... just waiting for somebody to touch
it, accidentally complete a path to ground via their body, and get
themselves mildly dead.


One of the reasons that Ground fault interrupters are around. If you
have a hundred feet or even more of neutral wire going back to that
panel, you can still get an appreciable current flowing through you
without tripping a breaker. I've had my tookus saved by one of those
GFCI things when a power tool failed in the manner you just described. I
felt the shock for just a fraction of a second, then it tripped.



the chassis, or sneak back into the microphone wiring and cause weird
squawking sounds when you transmit).


Ahh, that happens to me all the time even without RF on the mic! ;^)


- 73 de Mike N3LI -


Michael Coslo November 30th 07 04:05 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
wrote:


This whole topic area seems to be eternally confused and confusing and
I'm in the parade of the confused. On a common sense basis I
absolutely agree with your connecting the station grounds to the
'lectric service entrance ground for the reasons you've stated.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.


There is a whole lot of misinformation regarding grounding. An
interesting mental exercise is taking a tower say 50 feet from your
house. According to some, in order to comply with NEC, the tower has to
be grounded by sending a lead back to the house to that single ground
point. I guess they want to insulate the tower base from ground - no
ufer's here, thanks. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.


The good folks at Polyphaser have some excellent Technical notes. Kept
me busy a long time reading the stuff:

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx


Of particular interest is Ham Radio Station Protection:

http://tinyurl.com/2aymw9 (tinyurl needed - its a long one)


It is largely about lightning protection, but has good stuff pertaining
to grounding.


- 73 d eMike N3LI -


[email protected] November 30th 07 06:23 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
On Nov 29, 9:39 pm, (Dave Platt) wrote:
In article ,

.. . . . .

So is it legal to connect a phalanx of ham station ground rods to the
service entrance ground?? Or not.


As I understand it, according to the NEC, you must have only one
grounding *system* per building. This system may include two or more
ground rods, and/or a bare grounding wire buried in a trench around
the outside of the building. The ground rods and wires must be
securely bonded together with heavy-gauge wire... that's what ensures
that it's all one grounding "system".

.. . . . . . .

Makes complete sense and answers my basic question. Thank you David.

I have five 8' ground rods already installed with more coming. All of
them will be bonded together with about 100' of #8 bare solid copper.

Let's try one mo This place is a "This Old House" type abode. There
is no basement and no visible service entrance ground rod. There's a
tight dirt crawl space under the place which I'm not about to even try
to wiggle and squirm through to find the power wiring ground
connection. If there is a ground it's the 3/4" copper water supply
line from the street which pops up somewhere in the crawl space per
normal practice in days of yore around here. I know for a fact that
it's an old ~80' 100% copper line, not plastic. On the other hand the
service entrance panel box is quite accessible. Would it be OK if I
connected my ham grounding system to the neutral/ground bus in the
panel box instead of to the water line??

--
Dave Platt AE6EO


w3rv


konstans November 30th 07 07:33 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 

wrote in message
...
On Nov 27, 8:46 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
James Barrett wrote:


But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.


the NEC refering only to the household AC wring(soon hopefully to DC circuts

at least according to the local electrical inspector

our system for RF are another affair all together

the inspector also aprooves the use if desired of seperate eletectal ground
when service of more than one voltage and/ot freq is ainvolved

in my case I have a houshold from the ower company enterance a seprate
gorund for my various solar and wind systems 12-48 v DCdepending on the
location plus the seperate Ground from my station

most inspector in my experence would rather our rf system were not grounded
in to the mais ground since they don't uderstand RF at all



[email protected] November 30th 07 09:53 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
On Nov 30, 11:05 am, Michael Coslo wrote:
wrote:


There is a whole lot of misinformation regarding grounding.


Understatement of the day . . .

An
interesting mental exercise is taking a tower say 50 feet from your
house. According to some, in order to comply with NEC, the tower has to
be grounded by sending a lead back to the house to that single ground
point. I guess they want to insulate the tower base from ground - no
ufer's here, thanks. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.


Of course.

Over the years I've dealt with a grand total of two lightning
"events". I had a 70' 45G tower with a monster mast which was topped
by a homebrewed clone of a 2M Ringo Ranger which went to 90+ feet.
Lightning magnet. There was one ground rod alongside the concrete base
which was bonded (clamped and silver soldered) to the tower by a 1/8"
x 1/2" copper strap.

There were three runs of coax, a run of shielded rotator cable and an
unshielded run of 14/3 Romex up the tower with all shields and the
Romex ground bonded to the tower. All the radio gear in the basement
shack was grounded to the water line which was ~25' from the radios.
Not slick by today's standards.

Along came the first hit and my whole world turned "bright electric
blue". Power line/brown underwear hit. The thunder was still rumbling
loudly so I scrambled behind the gear and furiously got into yanking
plugs out of outlets when *bang* another hit . .

In the end there was all kinds of damage to the house wiring, TV sets
and kitchen appliances toasted, second floor wall outlets atomized,
etc. The only damage in the "radio room" was to the two vaporized disc
ceramic AC line bypass caps in the 75A4.

From this experience I learned that (a) lightning certainly can strike

the same place twice in rapid succession and that (b) lightning can
choose to hit power lines which are 30-40 feet *below* mongo grounded
objects like a towers which makes no sense at all and (c) there are no
manmade "cures" for lightning. Except maybe paid-up insurance coverage
and prayer . .

The good folks at Polyphaser have some excellent Technical notes. Kept
me busy a long time reading the stuff:

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

Of particular interest is Ham Radio Station Protection:

http://tinyurl.com/2aymw9 (tinyurl needed - its a long one)


That's a really good one. I'll print it out and dig into it. Tank yew
Michael.


It is largely about lightning protection, but has good stuff pertaining
to grounding.

- 73 d eMike N3LI -


w3rv


Phil Kane December 2nd 07 01:31 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 02:08:18 EST, (Dave Platt)
wrote:

The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe
path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the
neutral and hot are bonded together).


You do mean the neutral and ground, right?
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net


Dave Platt December 2nd 07 03:10 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
The intent of the third prong on the power plug is to provide a safe
path from the equipment chassis, back to the power panel (where the
neutral and hot are bonded together).


You do mean the neutral and ground, right?


Erp. Yes, indeed! Bonding neutral and hot at the panel would be
spectacular, but rather useless :-)

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!


Tom Horne, Electrician December 5th 07 11:48 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
konstans wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Nov 27, 8:46 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
James Barrett wrote:


But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.


the NEC refering only to the household AC wring(soon hopefully to DC circuts

at least according to the local electrical inspector

our system for RF are another affair all together

the inspector also aprooves the use if desired of seperate eletectal ground
when service of more than one voltage and/ot freq is ainvolved

in my case I have a houshold from the ower company enterance a seprate
gorund for my various solar and wind systems 12-48 v DCdepending on the
location plus the seperate Ground from my station

most inspector in my experence would rather our rf system were not grounded
in to the mais ground since they don't uderstand RF at all



Any electrical contractor will tell you that not all electrical
inspectors are well educated or trained. Ive had electrical inspectors
state a preference for plastic boxes in a run of metallic conduit or
cable. What those inspectors preferred was a direct violation of the
National Electrical Code. I've had electrical inspectors try to order
me to make a grounding connection in the meter enclosure which was
totally unacceptable to the power utility and is not required by the
NEC. I've had an electrical inspector fail my installation because I
had made the Grounding Electrode Conductor connection to the service
entry neutral conductor drip loop to comply with the requirements of the
legacy Rural Electrification Administration (REA) power cooperative
service standards even though the National Electrical Code specifically
permits that location to be used.

What the electrical inspector may prefer may be directly adverse to your
best interest. Bond all of your Grounding Electrodes together even if
your have to wait until after the electrical inspection to do so.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison


Tom Horne, Electrician December 5th 07 11:48 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
wrote:
On Nov 29, 9:39 pm, (Dave Platt) wrote:
In article ,

. . . . .
So is it legal to connect a phalanx of ham station ground rods to the
service entrance ground?? Or not.

As I understand it, according to the NEC, you must have only one
grounding *system* per building. This system may include two or more
ground rods, and/or a bare grounding wire buried in a trench around
the outside of the building. The ground rods and wires must be
securely bonded together with heavy-gauge wire... that's what ensures
that it's all one grounding "system".

. . . . . . .

Makes complete sense and answers my basic question. Thank you David.

I have five 8' ground rods already installed with more coming. All of
them will be bonded together with about 100' of #8 bare solid copper.

Let's try one mo This place is a "This Old House" type abode. There
is no basement and no visible service entrance ground rod. There's a
tight dirt crawl space under the place which I'm not about to even try
to wiggle and squirm through to find the power wiring ground
connection. If there is a ground it's the 3/4" copper water supply
line from the street which pops up somewhere in the crawl space per
normal practice in days of yore around here. I know for a fact that
it's an old ~80' 100% copper line, not plastic. On the other hand the
service entrance panel box is quite accessible. Would it be OK if I
connected my ham grounding system to the neutral/ground bus in the
panel box instead of to the water line??
--
Dave Platt AE6EO


w3rv


It is not necessary to bring your bonding conductor to the inside of the
panel cabinet. Bonding it to the cabinet itself is sufficient. If any
portion of the Grounding Electrode Conductor is accessible then that is
the best place to connect your inter electrode bonding conductor.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison


[email protected] December 7th 07 08:19 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
On Dec 5, 6:48 pm, "Tom Horne, Electrician"
wrote:
wrote:


snip

Let's try one mo This place is a "This Old House" type abode. There
is no basement and no visible service entrance ground rod. There's a
tight dirt crawl space under the place which I'm not about to even try
to wiggle and squirm through to find the power wiring ground
connection. If there is a ground it's the 3/4" copper water supply
line from the street which pops up somewhere in the crawl space per
normal practice in days of yore around here. I know for a fact that
it's an old ~80' 100% copper line, not plastic. On the other hand the
service entrance panel box is quite accessible. Would it be OK if I
connected my ham grounding system to the neutral/ground bus in the
panel box instead of to the water line??
--



w3rv


It is not necessary to bring your bonding conductor to the inside of the
panel cabinet. Bonding it to the cabinet itself is sufficient.


I would have thought that would'nt be kosher. Good info
If any
portion of the Grounding Electrode Conductor is accessible then that is
the best place to connect your inter electrode bonding conductor.


Roger that.

Thanks Dave.

--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison


Many yeards ago I read an article which stated that back in World War
One days President Wilson convened an advisory council composed of a
number of prominent Americans from different fields. Edison was a
member. Somebody suggested that Einstein would make a good addition to
the group. Edison's comment was something like "Somebody like Einstein
might be handy to have around in case somethimg needs to be figured
out."

w3rv



Paul W. Schleck[_3_] December 10th 07 01:45 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
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In writes:

[...]

Many yeards ago I read an article which stated that back in World War
One days President Wilson convened an advisory council composed of a
number of prominent Americans from different fields. Edison was a
member. Somebody suggested that Einstein would make a good addition to
the group. Edison's comment was something like "Somebody like Einstein
might be handy to have around in case somethimg needs to be figured
out."


w3rv


Sounds like an interesting story. No disrespect intended if I say that
it sounds apocryphal, though many credulous-sounding stories do
sometimes actually turn out to be true (see
http://www.snopes.com for
the straight skinny on many of them). Perhaps the basic back-story is
true, but with one or more different players (see below).

This one caught my eye, as someone who has a passing interest in
American history from formal education in school, later personal reading
of biographies by David McCullough, Steven Ambrose, etc., and from
additional training that many Americans get: specifically, from watching
hundreds of episodes of the game show "Jeopardy" :-).

I was wondering if someone else with more expertise in the subject had
some additional insight. Googling around doesn't seem to demonstrate
that the story is true, nor does it demonstrate that the story is
untrue. One thing that makes me suspicious is that for these three men
(Wilson, Edison, Einstein) to have knowledge of one another in the way
that the story suggests, their timelines, particularly the periods
during which they were famous in the United States, would have had to
significantly overlap.

President Woodrow Wilson lived from 1856 to 1924 and served as President
from 1913 to 1917.

Thomas Edison lived from 1847 to 1931, and generally became famous as an
inventor after the invention of the phonograph in 1877.

Albert Einstein lived from 1879 to 1955, became well-known among
physicists sometime during his famous, and initially controversial,
research published from 1905 to 1915, won the Nobel Prize in 1921,
visited the U.S. shortly afterwards, and eventually became well-known
among most Americans (including Presidents) sometime after he emigrated
to the U.S. in 1932, certainly sometime during or after World War II.

Some points to ponder:

- An early 20th Century U.S. President like Wilson might have been
aware of American winners of the Nobel prize, but might he have been
made aware of a still relatively obscure German/Swiss physicist
before he left office in 1917, pre-Nobel?

- Even if we assume that the President was Warren Harding (who was
close to Thomas Edison, even camping out with him in Maryland during
his presidency:

http://www.ohiochannel.org/your_stat...&file_id=81864

Harding only served briefly from 1921 to 1923. A better match would
be Herbert Hoover, who clearly was aware of Albert Einstein:

http://www.presidency.ucsb.edu/ws/index.php?pid=22068

and served during the time that Thomas Edison was still alive:

http://teachpol.tcnj.edu/amer_pol_hi...mbnail341.html

- Hoover's successor, Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR), only became
president in 1933, two years after Edison died in 1931.

- Thomas Edison was a great inventor, but an individual without much
formal education. Would he have necessarily been aware of what was
going on in a theoretical academic field like Physics before 1917,
and before Einstein had even done recognized works in that field?
Recall that the General Theory of Relativity, published in 1915, was
not widely accepted until years later, his Nobel Prize was for the
Photoelectric Effect, and as a resident of one of the countries in
the Central Powers (opposing the U.S., France, and the UK during
WWI), his work would be censored from international publication
during most of Wilson's term, anyway:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_...ral_relativity

- The only reference I could find to Albert Einstein and Thomas Edison
even just in communication with one another was this photograph from
1930:

http://www.topfoto.co.uk/gallery/einstein/default.htm

where Einstein telephoned Edison (from Germany) to congratulate him
on the 50th anniversary of the invention of the electric light bulb,
much later than Wilson's term of office.

So, the timelines of Wilson, Edison, and Einstein don't really match up
simultaneously. Nor do those of FDR match up with Edison, nor Wilson
with Einstein. Either the President would have to be someone like
Hoover or Harding, or the scientist would have to be someone else. At
the very least, Einstein couldn't really be considered a "prominent
American" until after he emigrated to the U.S. in 1932, and obtained
U.S. citizenship in 1940.

Ob Amateur Radio: Thomas Edison was a contemporary of Hiram Percy Maxim
(co-founder of the ARRL), who lived from 1869 to 1936, and is credited
with inventing the Maxim Silencer for firearms, and the automobile
muffler. Hiram's father, Hiram Stevens Maxim, invented the machine gun,
and was involved on the losing end of several patent disputes with
Edison over the incandescent light bulb.

- --
73, Paul W. Schleck, K3FU

http://www.novia.net/~pschleck/
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BNB Sound December 10th 07 02:45 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that there be two
grounding points for a residential system. That can mean either two
ground rods, six feet apart, connected to the panel with a continuous
loop of wire, or a single ground rod in cases where there is municipal
water, and the second ground source is the water main coming in, on
the road side of the meter. The gas line also needs to be grounded to
the panel.

In the main service panel, the grounding system is attached to the
same buss as the bare neutral coming in from the transformer. If your
shack is running off a sub-panel, it should be fed with four conductor
cable. In this case an insulated neutral is used and the bare (or
insulated, it doesn't matter in this instance) ground is connected to
a separate equipment ground buss. If your shack is in a separate
structure that has its own sub panel, it needs to be fed with three
conductor ground, the neutral is connected to the ground bar and a
ground wire from a single ground rod is connected to the same buss
(similar to the setup at the main panel). It sounds confusing as
written here, and it's even more confusing to read it from the NEC,
but I just had this out yesterday with my local inspector while going
over the fine points on a job.

All that NEC stuff is important to check to make sure you're setup is
electrically safe. As for station grounding, it's not usually a good
idea to use the electrical system ground rods for your RF grounds.
Your rig, tuner, amps, etc, should all be grounded to a single buss
with the shortest possible wires, then a large chunk of wire, #6 or
better, should run as directly as possible to a separate 8' ground
rod. If you have a tower, you should drive at least one 8 footer at
the base and ground it there. There's no limit to the number of ground
rods you can have for RF grounds, they're less than $10 from a
distributor and well worth the effort. I've heard of hams setting up
verticals with very minimal radials, just driving several ground rods.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.


The answer to that is that if there is more than one they must be
connected. The methods differ depending on the location of services in
the structures and around the property. An electrician following the
NEC would have done this during the installation and (hopefully) the
inspector would have signed off on it. Ground rods for RF equipment
SHOULD NOT be connected in any way to the electrical system ground
rods.

73
KC2PNF
Jon Dayton


Dave Heil[_2_] December 11th 07 01:35 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
BNB Sound wrote:
The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that there be two
grounding points for a residential system. That can mean either two
ground rods, six feet apart, connected to the panel with a continuous
loop of wire, or a single ground rod in cases where there is municipal
water, and the second ground source is the water main coming in, on
the road side of the meter. The gas line also needs to be grounded to
the panel.


Grounding the gas line here would be an exercise in futility. A metal
pipe goes into the ground just outside my home. It is three feet long.
It then connects to a plastic gas line which goes under U.S. Route 250
and runs to a gas meter about 100 yards away.


All that NEC stuff is important to check to make sure you're setup is
electrically safe. As for station grounding, it's not usually a good
idea to use the electrical system ground rods for your RF grounds.
Your rig, tuner, amps, etc, should all be grounded to a single buss
with the shortest possible wires, then a large chunk of wire, #6 or
better, should run as directly as possible to a separate 8' ground
rod. If you have a tower, you should drive at least one 8 footer at
the base and ground it there. There's no limit to the number of ground
rods you can have for RF grounds, they're less than $10 from a
distributor and well worth the effort.


That's a very, very bad idea. If your shack ground is not tied to your
electrical ground and a near miss strikes power lines, the shack ground
and your electrical ground will be at very different potentials. Your
radio gear will be right in the middle.


I've heard of hams setting up
verticals with very minimal radials, just driving several ground rods.


I've heard of it too, but it is another very bad idea. There is simply
no way that driven ground rods can substitute for a radial screen. They
are intended to do different things.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.


The answer to that is that if there is more than one they must be
connected. The methods differ depending on the location of services in
the structures and around the property. An electrician following the
NEC would have done this during the installation and (hopefully) the
inspector would have signed off on it. Ground rods for RF equipment
SHOULD NOT be connected in any way to the electrical system ground
rods.


That's simply incorrect and dangerous. I have connected my shack ground
to my electrical ground with some great big honkin' copper wire. You
may have as many different ground rods as you like. You should connect
all of them to a single point.

Dave K8MN


Paul W. Schleck[_3_] December 11th 07 02:17 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
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In Paul W. Schleck " writes:

[...]

President Woodrow Wilson lived from 1856 to 1924 and served as President
from 1913 to 1917.


[...]

While true, it's also true that he served as President from 1917 to 1921.

:-)

Even in that sea of dates that I posted, I should have noticed that
Wilson was not a one-termer, and did serve through World War I Armistice
Day on November 11, 1918.

- --
73, Paul W. Schleck, K3FU

http://www.novia.net/~pschleck/
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Michael Coslo December 11th 07 06:46 PM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
Dave Heil wrote:

BNB Sound wrote:
I've heard of hams setting up
verticals with very minimal radials, just driving several ground rods.


I've heard of it too, but it is another very bad idea. There is simply
no way that driven ground rods can substitute for a radial screen. They
are intended to do different things.


Correct. RF "grounding" is so different from Power ground that it
shouldn't even be called the same thing. Good RF grounding can be had
without a direct connection to the earth, my radials are insulated wire
and don't have any wire exposure to the ground, so that they won't
corrode. (note that the antenna gets direct connection to ground through
the base.

It sounded freaky weird to me at first, but as I put in my radials over
several sessions (criteria being how long my poor abused knees could
stand it) I measured and adjusted the system each time, and it worked as
advertised. More radials = better grounding. The coil at the bottom of
my vertical required less and less inductance to match the system.

But it surely isn't a power ground, and given that the rf is absorbed
(right word) at or near the ground surface, those ground rods would only
be useful at that first foot or so.

- 73 de Mike N3LI -


Tom Horne[_4_] January 7th 08 04:43 AM

Grounding my HF radio equipment
 
wrote:
On Nov 27, 8:46 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
James Barrett wrote:
Does it really matter if my equipment is ground to the house ground or
should it really be connected to its own external ground? And if/when
I ground to guard against lightning strikes, would I use that same
external ground or go with yet another external ground?
I'm still doing my research, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Jim,

You'll see numerous references on the web to "single point ground." It
is very, very important stuff. I got nailed on this stuff back in
August, 2003. Here's how it played out:

We had a violent thunderstorm early one morning about 7 A.M. Suddenly
there were three near strikes (simultaneous lightning and thunder)
within a ten second time frame. In addition to telephones, computers
and home entertainment equipment, my four month old Ten-Tec Orion and
numberous shack accessories were zapped. My house ground is a single 8
foot copper plated ground rod. The lightning ground for the shack was
an identical ground rod driven about thirty feet away from the house ground.

When the strikes conducted a surge into my home via the power lines, all
three wires had very high voltage on them. The shack ground was still
at its usual potential (0). The house ground was elevated to high
voltage. There was a potential difference between the shack ground the
the house ground. That potential quickly equalized inside my equipment.

Ten-Tec reported that six boards inside the Orion had their ground
traces evaporated.

For a shack ground, you want the shortest possible distance between your
rig and earth. The house ground will be as close as possible to your
electrical service entrance. If, like me, you have to use two ground
rods, you need to bond the two of them together with a big, fat wire so
that the two can never be at different potentials.
If you have a tower, I'll assume that you have at least one 8 foot
ground rod driven at its base. Bond your coaxial cable sheaths to the
rod at the tower. The sheaths should also be bonded to your shack ground.

Dave Heil K8MN


This whole topic area seems to be eternally confused and confusing and
I'm in the parade of the confused. On a common sense basis I
absolutely agree with your connecting the station grounds to the
'lectric service entrance ground for the reasons you've stated.

But somewhere along the line somebody in the ham groups stated that
the National Electrical Code states that there shall be one and *only
one* grounding point per power drop and the neighborhood code cops and
the insurance companies reportedly get stiff about it.

So is it legal to connect a phalanx of ham station ground rods to the
service entrance ground?? Or not.


w3rv


What the code enforcement types get vexed about is were you have two
different Grounding Electrode Systems (GES) that are not bonded together
into a single system. So if you have one concrete encased electrode in
your tower base, another concrete encased electrode in your homes
footer, and a driven rod array electrode just outside the radio room
wall and you do not bond them together into a single GES that is a code
violation. It is also a code violation to connect any conductor that
carries power and light current to ground at any point in the wiring
system that is not at the Service Disconnecting Means (SDM). The SDM is
the first switch, breaker, or fused pull out that can be used to
disconnect the ungrounded current carrying conductors of the wiring
system from the service entry conductors. In most homes this is the
main breaker or the main fuse pull out. The code name for the white
wire in North American wiring practice is the "Grounded Current Carrying
Conductor." In many cases it is also the neutral conductor but that is
not always the case. It is that white wire that most of us call the
neutral; albeit sometimes mistakenly; that must be connected to the GES
at one and only one point. That point is the portion of the service
entrance grounded conductor that is between the splices that connect it
to the utility company's conductors and the SDM.

A practice that was very popular in the computer industry was to ground
the computer equipment power supplies of main frame computers to a new
and separate grounding electrode at the computers location. Connecting
that ground back to the power service ground was carefully avoided on
the belief that doing so would cause ground loops on the signal circuits
between the main frame and the associated terminal equipment. Some self
qualifying authorities recommended the same approach for radio
equipment. That left the earth between the two electrode systems as the
only return path for current faulting to ground at the improperly
isolated ground equipment. With the resistance to earth of most driven
rod electrodes being over fifty ohms the series resistance of such a
fault current pathway was often over a hundred ohms. Such a high
impedance would limit the fault current flowing back to the utility
transformer from whence it came to a flow too small to trip the Over
Current Protective Device (OCPD) protecting the faulted circuit. You
then have a situation in which all of the exposed conductive parts of
the radio or computer equipment is energized at 120 volts relative to
earth or any body that will behave as the earth does electrically.
Since it only takes about a third of an ampere to kill a human being the
user could be electrocuted without ever tripping the OCPD. Because the
danger to life was of a greater concern to code authorities then the
difficulties caused by ground loops on signal lines the electronic
engineers lost that war with the electrical engineers and the rule
forbidding separate grounding electrode systems survived the attempts to
remove it from the nations electrical codes.

The good news for us as amateur radio practitioners is that what is safe
is also good operating practice. By bonding all of our grounding
electrode systems together into a single system we get a better ground
for most purposes and we greatly decrease the likelihood of equipment
damage or operator injury / death.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison





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