RadioBanter

RadioBanter (https://www.radiobanter.com/)
-   Moderated (https://www.radiobanter.com/moderated/)
-   -   And now for something totally different! (https://www.radiobanter.com/moderated/170932-now-something-totally-different.html)

Dave Heil[_2_] March 16th 08 08:50 AM

And now for something totally different!
 
wrote:
On Mar 9, 4:10� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 5, 3:20� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 3, 2:40�pm, Michael Coslo wrote:


Gotcha, Jug!
Marcellus? Is that you?

Complete with insignia!


Almost time to put the blue sweaters away.


Right you are.

There's no one who can reduce a waste stream
like West Africans. � The
seams in Coke cans are opened after the tops
and bottoms are removed and
the cans are rolled flat. � The become roofing material
or house siding.
Black trash bags are washed and recycled. � Pop bottles
become water
bottles and used 55-gallon drums (previous contents
unknown) are used
for making palm or cashew wine.


Except for the reuse of possibly-contaminated 55-gal drums it all
sounds good.


Yeah, I've thought about it a great deal. Some of those drums may have
had petroleum products or pesticides or such. You might want to think
about getting your beef in a black trash bag which was previously used
for garbage. I once bought a loaf of French bread on the street which
came wrapped in a letter I'd discarded in the trash. It didn't bother
me too much since I'd already gotten used to picking the baked weevils
out of the bread.

The dial drum of the Southgate Type 7 was made from a piece of 6"
diameter plexiglass pipe. It was thoroughly cleaned and about a 2"
long section cut off. A disk 6" in diameter was then cut and the pipe
solvent-welded to the disk using Duco.


The neutralizing-adjustment disk from a BC-375 tuning unit was then
bolted to the bottom so that the dial drum could be mounted on an
extension of the tuning capacitor shaft.

The dial drum is viewed through a Plexiglas window. A piece of paper
wrapped around the drum was calibrated using an LM frequency meter,
then a good copy drawn using a CAD program. The good copy was printed
on translucent Mylar and put on the drum.


That's a pretty inventive way to handle a homebrew dial.

A lampholder/reflector assembly is mounted inside the dial drum, with
two pilot lights so the whole thing is illuminated.


It sounds remarkably like the way Hammarlund handled the
dial/illumination in the HQ-215.

You want a Southgate type number for it?

I think that'd be appropriate.

Indeed! I will speak with Engineering Documentation about it.


I received the data from Engineering.

The upright case has a full metal cover, space for a cooling fan and a
shelf which can hold the rectifier board and electrolytic caps. � The
bottles aren't U.S. types, they're Phillips equivalents with graphite
plates. � They should hold up for a long time. � I'll use Chinese
Coleman-type lantern chimneys.


There's a good discussion over on eham about high power tubes,
gettering and other issues. Unlike receiving tubes with their shiny
flashed getters, high power tubes often use the anode or a coating as
the getter, and need to operate at high temperature to work.


I've read the eham thread and have even participated.

Lots of good info out there free for the download. W5JGV's site has
info from Eimac, RCA, Taylor and other tube makers. Not just the usual
number and data but application notes, recommended practices, etc.


I'm forced to admit that I've got many of the original transmitting and
receiving guides. When I sold industrial electronics for Hughes-Peters,
I rescued an old Eimac three-ring binder from the trash. It contains
the specs for most early and late Eimac bottles along with applications
notes and design info for amateur amplifiers. Quite a number of those
notes and articles were done by Bill Orr W6SAI (SK). I consider Bill's
articles to be excellent.

Yes, but they want you to *buy* the stuff! My adapters
were made from
scraps.

Some of us would have to buy stuff in order to have scraps.


Bwaahaahaa


I can't tell you how many leftovers I have from buying material for a
project. When I lived in Cincy, I used to hit the scrap bins of a
plastics distributor so I have quite a bit of scrap teflon, nylon and
lucite rod, sheet and tube. Finding it when I want it is the hard part.

� I've found
that the hobby shop stuff is not terribly expensive. � They also have
round, square and sheet plastic stock. � Some is clear and some is
translucent--ideal for making dial scales.


See description, above. I gotta take more pics...

Exactly. Wood prices have changed, though; today
a tabletop might be
AC plywood.


Depends what's on the cull cart.


I don't have a place with a cull cart. � I've sometimes bought
ugly-looking plywood and topped a desk with vinyl floor tile. � If you


want to fancy one up, hardwood veneer isn't too pricey.


Don't want fancy. Want functional.


Keeping the XYL happy, serves a function. Keeping visiting hams from
laughing, serves a function.

Thursday there was the remains of a packing box for some new furniture
by a dumpster near here. The box was corrugated but the base was nice
2x4 and 1x6, nailed together. Cut off the corrugated and saved the
wood.


I'm not above that. My last crank up tower from Tashjian/Tri-Ex had a
crate built from 22-foot-long California 2x4's and some long, narrow
strips of plywood. I kept it all. I'd never even seen 22' pieces of
2x4 stock prior to getting these. They're reddish in color and are of
some sort of pine not often found here in the East.

The former belongs in a museum, the latter in a home.

Not everyone lives like us, Jim. � Some folks have houses
large enough to
be homes *and* museums and the wherewithal to populate
the place with
both types of antiques.


Yep, you're right. Particularly around here!


Well, these 3,000 to 5000 square foot mega-homes have been cropping up
everywhere in the past decade. They're much cheaper to heat and cool
than some of the earlier built homes.

� I can appreciate antiques as art but we don't
have enough room for antiques we can't put to use unless
they happen to
be art for the wall or items which can sit on a table for
the most part.


Same here. All about multiple uses.


....and the conservation of space.

You're a lightweight! � My main operating position is representative

of
overkill. � The frame is 2x4's; the legs are 4x4's and the top is a
hollow core door. � There's a two shelf console with two angled
wings,
with enough roof under the first shelf for solid-state brick
VHF/UHF
amps, keyers, paddles, DVK and the like.


For me that frame is overkill but the hollow-core door is underkill -
not strong enough.


The console is the key to strength.

Did I mention the six foot rack to my right?


I've had table racks but always wanted a six or seven foot floor rack.
My old Handbook has plans for a wooden one...


I remember seeing the plans.

I did one table with a hollow core door many years ago (it was
free)
but they are too flimsy and too expensive for TSS approval now.

They hold up well with the 2x4 frame and 2x4 bracing.


Yes but that's not the issue. You can punch right through the surface
with something sharp and heavy enough.


That's why I mentioned the console. Everything heavy sits on it. The
four supports for it distribute the weight so that nothing can break
through the door. There's one large HF rig, one HF/VHF/UHF rig, four
rotor control boxes, an HF amp, three remote coaxial switches, three
watt meters, two speakers, an antenna tune, a RTTY/digital modem, spare
receiver and a monitor scope on the console. Assorted accessory boxes
sit under the console and there's an LCD computer monitor and a keyboard
on the desk too.

Dave K8MN


[email protected] March 16th 08 06:04 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Mar 16, 3:50Â am, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 9, 4:10� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 5, 3:20� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 3, 2:40�pm, Michael Coslo wrote:


Except for the reuse of possibly-contaminated 55-gal drums it all
sounds good.


Yeah, I've thought about it a great deal. Â I once bought a loaf of
French bread on the street which
came wrapped in a letter I'd discarded in the trash. Â It didn't bothe

r
me too much since I'd already gotten used to picking the baked
weevils out of the bread.


You owe me a new keyboard for that story.

The dial drum of the Southgate Type 7.... The
good copy was printed
on translucent Mylar and put on the drum.


That's a pretty inventive way to handle a homebrew dial.


TNX. Not a single new part was used. It's done a good job these past
dozen years.

It sounds remarkably like the way Hammarlund handled the
dial/illumination in the HQ-215.


That's what inspired the design, except there's no dial cord in the
Type 7. IIRC, the HQ-215 lamps aren't *inside* the dial drum, are
they?

I received the data from Engineering.


Good. Ms. Yardley sends greetings.

Unlike receiving tubes with their shiny
flashed getters, high power tubes often
use the anode or a coating as
the getter, and need to operate at high temperature to work.


I've read the eham thread and have even participated.


Excellent!

I'm forced to admit that I've got many of the original
transmitting and
receiving guides. Â When I sold industrial electronics for
Hughes-Peters,
I rescued an old Eimac three-ring binder from the trash.
 It contains
the specs for most early and late Eimac bottles along with
applications
notes and design info for amateur amplifiers. Â


Priceless stuff!

Quite a number of those
notes and articles were done by Bill Orr W6SAI (SK).
 I consider Bill's
articles to be excellent.


I agree. Those articles and notes often go far beyond mere
specifications and general data, too. They often explain *why*
something is done, not just what to do.

A lot of the info is rather subtle. For example, if one is used to
receiving and low-power transmitting tubes with their silvery flashed
getters, where overheating causes the getter to lose its silvery
appearance, it is counter-intuitive that the gettering action of high
power transmitting tubes can actually depend the plate reaching high
temperatures. Or that, in the case of high-gain glass tetrodes like
the 4-125A, running lightly loaded can cause the glass of the tube to
soften from electron bombardment.

I think that a lot of things were tossed in the 1970s-1990s because
folks thought they'd never be needed again. Can't tell you how many
tubes and tube-related parts I acquired in those years for little or
nothing, because the folks getting rid of it thought nobody would ever
need or want it in the future.

This sort of thing even happens in the aerospace industry. A lot of
documentation was simply dumped as programs ended. Rocket engine
designers are going to museums to see how it was done in the past, and
have the problem of seeing what was done but not why.

I can't tell you how many leftovers I have from buying material for a
project. Â When I lived in Cincy, I used to hit the scrap bins of a
plastics distributor so I have quite a bit of scrap teflon, nylon and
lucite rod, sheet and tube. Â Finding it when I want it is the hard
part.


Same here.

How's this for scrounging:

When this house got new siding back a few years, the antenna mast had
to come down so the siding could be put on. But when the mast was to
be reinstalled, I needed some spacers to make everything line up
correctly.

Machining metal to do the job would have been a big deal. Wood was
easy but would be a maintenance job, exposed to the weather. PVC was
too soft and not available in the right sizes anyway.

Then I remembered that relatives had redone their kitchen some years
earlier, and had gotten white Corian countertops installed. The
installers had left some Corian scraps behind. The relatives
had kept them, figuring there had to be some use for such wonderful
material.

Sure enough, the scraps were still available for the asking. I got
some and made the exact spacer blocks needed. Tough, weatherproof,
easy to machine, and even the right color.
Don't want fancy. Want functional.


Keeping the XYL happy, serves a function.


Agreed.

 Keeping visiting hams from
laughing, serves a function.


They don't laugh when they see the contest scores.

I'm not above that. Â My last crank up tower from
Tashjian/Tri-Ex had a
crate built from 22-foot-long California 2x4's and
some long, narrow
strips of plywood. Â I kept it all. Â I'd never even seen 22' piec

es of
2x4 stock prior to getting these. Â They're reddish in color
and are of
some sort of pine not often found here in the East.


The only places I've seen such long pieces of 2x4 were in old balloon-
framed houses. One reason balloon-framing ended was the availability
and cost of such wood.

Well, these 3,000 to 5000 square foot mega-homes
have been cropping up
everywhere in the past decade.


We call them "McMansions" in these parts. But that really applies more
to the 4,000-8.000+ sf houses we see.

It is not unusual around here to see a perfectly good house from the
1950s to 1970s bought and torn down by a developer so a McMansion can
be built. The value is in the land - often the price of the new place
is twice that of the old. The current housing bust has mostly put an
end to that, but not completely. More than a few locals are up in arms
because it means less "affordable" housing units.

The amateur radio connection to all of this is that often the house
which was torn down had mature trees good for antennas and no CC&Rs.
"Development" often removes at least some of the trees, or they don't
survive the construction process, and the new place is usually CC&R'd
to the max.

 They're much cheaper to heat and cool
than some of the earlier built homes.


That depends on two factors: scaling (as a house gets bigger, the
interior volume grows faster than the exterior wall/roof area) and how
houses are built.

When this house got the work done a couple summers ago, and some walls
were opened, it turned out that there was no insulation. Just a thin
layer of wallboard, 2x4s, 1x10 sheathing (not plywood yet the house is
from 1950) tar paper and mineral siding. Of course insulation and
Tyvek were installed, and then the new siding.

Same here. All about multiple uses.


...and the conservation of space.


More on that below.

The console is the key to strength.


That's why I mentioned the console. Â
Everything heavy sits on it. Â The
four supports for it distribute the weight so that nothing can break
through the door. Â There's one large HF rig, one HF/VHF/UHF rig,
four
rotor control boxes, an HF amp, three remote coaxial switches,
three
watt meters, two speakers, an antenna tune, a RTTY/digital
modem, spare
receiver and a monitor scope on the console. Â Assorted
accessory boxes
sit under the console and there's an LCD computer monitor
and a keyboard
on the desk too.


Beautiful, just beautiful..

One difference is that your console/desk is purpose-built for the
shack. Custom use, IOW. The op desk I use was designed to be multi-
purpose, and has been on several Field Days, as have the Southgate
rigs.

When a thing is built to do just one thing, it can often be made
simple and yet high-performance for that one thing. When it has to do
multiple things, there are always more compromises.

73 de Jim, N2EY


Dave Heil[_2_] March 16th 08 10:53 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
wrote:
On Mar 16, 3:50� am, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 9, 4:10� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 5, 3:20� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 3, 2:40�pm, Michael Coslo wrote:


Except for the reuse of possibly-contaminated 55-gal drums it all
sounds good.


Yeah, I've thought about it a great deal. � I once bought a loaf of
French bread on the street which
came wrapped in a letter I'd discarded in the trash. � It didn't bothe

r
me too much since I'd already gotten used to picking the baked
weevils out of the bread.


You owe me a new keyboard for that story.


Heh. What's funny is that after you've lived in one of those places for
a while, these things tend to seem perfectly rational. When the embassy
water pump broke, we lived for six weeks with a string of locals hiking
the five flights to our flat with a bucket full of water in each hand.
They'd dump the buck in a plastic garbage can, turn around and trot down
the stairs for another couple of buckets. We lived like that for six
weeks--taking bucket baths, doing hand wash and so forth. Keep in mind
that all water used for drinking/cooking had to be boiled and filtered
before use, whether the pumps were in operation or not.

We had a pipe burst inside a wall of our laundry room once. There was
no pipe available in town. Worker dug into the concrete wall, found the
break and used rubber tubing and hose clamps to join the broken pieces.
With every surge of the water pump, the tubing expanded and contracted,
looking like it had a pulse. WAWA--West Africa Wins Again.

The dial drum of the Southgate Type 7.... The
good copy was printed
on translucent Mylar and put on the drum.


That's a pretty inventive way to handle a homebrew dial.


TNX. Not a single new part was used. It's done a good job these past
dozen years.


That's the ultimate in junk box building and a good track record for the
finished project.

It sounds remarkably like the way Hammarlund handled the
dial/illumination in the HQ-215.


That's what inspired the design, except there's no dial cord in the
Type 7. IIRC, the HQ-215 lamps aren't *inside* the dial drum, are
they?


Yes, it is. There's only one inside the drum and another for the
S-meter. To the left of the dial window is a calibration adjustment.
To the right is an identical knob which dims the dial lamps if desired.
I desire it a lot since dimming them a bit keeps from having to put in
new lamps very often.

I received the data from Engineering.


Good. Ms. Yardley sends greetings.


Heh.

Unlike receiving tubes with their shiny
flashed getters, high power tubes often
use the anode or a coating as
the getter, and need to operate at high temperature to work.

I've read the eham thread and have even participated.


Excellent!


I don't know if it is or not. There's been some anger exhibited over
some issues. Quite a bit of erroneous information has been passed.

I'm forced to admit that I've got many of the original
transmitting and
receiving guides. � When I sold industrial electronics for
Hughes-Peters,
I rescued an old Eimac three-ring binder from the trash.
� It contains
the specs for most early and late Eimac bottles along with
applications
notes and design info for amateur amplifiers. �


Priceless stuff!


I've never even seen another of them.

Quite a number of those
notes and articles were done by Bill Orr W6SAI (SK).
� I consider Bill's
articles to be excellent.


I agree. Those articles and notes often go far beyond mere
specifications and general data, too. They often explain *why*
something is done, not just what to do.


Exactly. I'd never realized until I got the binder that Eimac had even
published amateur linear amplifier "how to" articles. A linear amp
isn't a difficult thing to design yourself if you understand why a final
tank Q within a paricular range is desired and you can use tables
published by Orr for translating the plate load impedence of a
particular bottle (run at a particular plate voltage) to find the values
of C1, C2 and L needed for the tank circuit.

A lot of the info is rather subtle. For example, if one is used to
receiving and low-power transmitting tubes with their silvery flashed
getters, where overheating causes the getter to lose its silvery
appearance, it is counter-intuitive that the gettering action of high
power transmitting tubes can actually depend the plate reaching high
temperatures.


It makes sense. There is a great difference between a receiving-type
tube run at relatively low voltages and a high power transmitting tube
run at high voltages. Their construction is quite different.

Or that, in the case of high-gain glass tetrodes like
the 4-125A, running lightly loaded can cause the glass of the tube to
soften from electron bombardment.


That sort of thing was also evident in TV horizontal output tubes. As I
pointed out in the e-ham forum, Nonex glass was used in some later sweep
tubes to help in preventing suck-in.

I think that a lot of things were tossed in the 1970s-1990s because
folks thought they'd never be needed again. Can't tell you how many
tubes and tube-related parts I acquired in those years for little or
nothing, because the folks getting rid of it thought nobody would ever
need or want it in the future.


I have enough boat anchor gear that I've taken about anything offered
over the years. Having the parts to keep something running isn't the
problem. Storage is.

This sort of thing even happens in the aerospace industry. A lot of
documentation was simply dumped as programs ended. Rocket engine
designers are going to museums to see how it was done in the past, and
have the problem of seeing what was done but not why.


I've read articles stating that NASA is having real problem as those
with knowledge of the design of such engines are retiring or have
already retired.

I can't tell you how many leftovers I have from buying material for a
project. � When I lived in Cincy, I used to hit the scrap bins of a
plastics distributor so I have quite a bit of scrap teflon, nylon and
lucite rod, sheet and tube. � Finding it when I want it is the hard
part.


Same here.

How's this for scrounging:

When this house got new siding back a few years, the antenna mast had
to come down so the siding could be put on. But when the mast was to
be reinstalled, I needed some spacers to make everything line up
correctly.

Machining metal to do the job would have been a big deal. Wood was
easy but would be a maintenance job, exposed to the weather. PVC was
too soft and not available in the right sizes anyway.

Then I remembered that relatives had redone their kitchen some years
earlier, and had gotten white Corian countertops installed. The
installers had left some Corian scraps behind. The relatives
had kept them, figuring there had to be some use for such wonderful
material.


That's one I'd not considered. What I might have considered is that
newer composite decking material which is designed to last for decades.
It can be cut easily and comes in a variety of color. I'd have likely
gone with something like that since nobody hereabouts has put in any
Corian counters lately.

Sure enough, the scraps were still available for the asking. I got
some and made the exact spacer blocks needed. Tough, weatherproof,
easy to machine, and even the right color.


Sometimes you just get lucky.

Don't want fancy. Want functional.


Keeping the XYL happy, serves a function.


Agreed.

� Keeping visiting hams from
laughing, serves a function.


They don't laugh when they see the contest scores.


That largely depends on who the visitor is.

I'm not above that. � My last crank up tower from
Tashjian/Tri-Ex had a
crate built from 22-foot-long California 2x4's and
some long, narrow
strips of plywood. � I kept it all. � I'd never even seen 22' piec

es of
2x4 stock prior to getting these. � They're reddish in color
and are of
some sort of pine not often found here in the East.


The only places I've seen such long pieces of 2x4 were in old balloon-
framed houses. One reason balloon-framing ended was the availability
and cost of such wood.


I'm not familiar with the term "balloon framing". I'm looking it up. I
don't think there's anything available from my local lumberyard in
lengths exceeding 16'.

Well, these 3,000 to 5000 square foot mega-homes
have been cropping up
everywhere in the past decade.


We call them "McMansions" in these parts. But that really applies more
to the 4,000-8.000+ sf houses we see.


There are some of 'em in Wheeling, but not many. I think those homes
were the product of a booming economy and easy credit. Those days are
over for at least the time being.

It is not unusual around here to see a perfectly good house from the
1950s to 1970s bought and torn down by a developer so a McMansion can
be built. The value is in the land - often the price of the new place
is twice that of the old. The current housing bust has mostly put an
end to that, but not completely. More than a few locals are up in arms
because it means less "affordable" housing units.


I can't really understand the "up in arms" part because we really having
a surplus of existing housing in the country. The "tear it down and
build a new one" stuff is going on in the Cincinnati area too.

The amateur radio connection to all of this is that often the house
which was torn down had mature trees good for antennas and no CC&Rs.
"Development" often removes at least some of the trees, or they don't
survive the construction process, and the new place is usually CC&R'd
to the max.


That IS a problem for radio amateurs. I think a bigger problem is that
most of our newer housing is built in subdivisions. Those subdivisions
are not radio friendly at all. I'm seeing more and more magazine
articles on stealth antennas. I won't consider living in one of those
areas.

We're sitting on an acre. If we re-locate, I'd be happier with 2 or 3
acres. I wouldn't object if half of that area happened to be in trees
or woods though.

� They're much cheaper to heat and cool
than some of the earlier built homes.


That depends on two factors: scaling (as a house gets bigger, the
interior volume grows faster than the exterior wall/roof area) and how
houses are built.


The "how houses are built" part is what I meant to address. Things like
a geothermal heating/cooling systems are another factor. W8RHM's new
place has one and it is a large house. His heating and cooling bills
are quite reasonable.

When this house got the work done a couple summers ago, and some walls
were opened, it turned out that there was no insulation. Just a thin
layer of wallboard, 2x4s, 1x10 sheathing (not plywood yet the house is
from 1950) tar paper and mineral siding. Of course insulation and
Tyvek were installed, and then the new siding.


That had to make a difference.

Same here. All about multiple uses.

...and the conservation of space.


More on that below.

The console is the key to strength.


That's why I mentioned the console. �
Everything heavy sits on it. � The
four supports for it distribute the weight so that nothing can break
through the door. � There's one large HF rig, one HF/VHF/UHF rig,
four
rotor control boxes, an HF amp, three remote coaxial switches,
three
watt meters, two speakers, an antenna tune, a RTTY/digital
modem, spare
receiver and a monitor scope on the console. � Assorted
accessory boxes
sit under the console and there's an LCD computer monitor
and a keyboard
on the desk too.


Beautiful, just beautiful..


If not beautiful, at least it isn't ugly. The console and the former
W8YX desk got hauled to each of my Foreign Service postings. The
console is approaching thirty years in age. It gets a new coat of paint
about once per decade.

One difference is that your console/desk is purpose-built for the
shack. Custom use, IOW. The op desk I use was designed to be multi-
purpose, and has been on several Field Days, as have the Southgate
rigs.


N8NN and I have been using those plastic-topped banquet tables with the
folding legs inside a screen room for FD use. That's because 1) they're
easy to set up and take down and 2) Bert has some.

When a thing is built to do just one thing, it can often be made
simple and yet high-performance for that one thing. When it has to do
multiple things, there are always more compromises.


It is really difficult to buy something which is really ideal for an
amateur radio operating position. Computer hutches/desks tend to be a
little on the small side and aren't generally as stoutly built as
necessary. For some of us, what worked really well at one point might
not be as handy years later, when the amount of gear expands to fill all
available space. I used to get by with the old W8YX desk with a 3x5'
top. The position I now use is 3x7'. If I relocate, I'll consider a
homebrew U-shaped operating position. The room I'm in at present does
not lend itself to that.

Dave K8MN


Phil Kane March 18th 08 06:13 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 04:50:34 EDT, Dave Heil
wrote:

I'm forced to admit that I've got many of the original transmitting and
receiving guides. When I sold industrial electronics for Hughes-Peters,
I rescued an old Eimac three-ring binder from the trash. It contains
the specs for most early and late Eimac bottles along with applications
notes and design info for amateur amplifiers. Quite a number of those
notes and articles were done by Bill Orr W6SAI (SK). I consider Bill's
articles to be excellent.


Somewhere in my pile of stuff I have Eimac's "Care and Feeding of
Power Tetrodes". A classic.

Bill Eitel (SK), the "Ei" if Eimac, was a close buddy of my first FCC
boss, Ney Landry (W6UDU, ex-K6RI - but that "ex" is another story) and
I got to meet him several times in the office and at the hamfests that
eventually became Pacificon.
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net


Phil Kane March 18th 08 06:24 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 14:04:13 EDT, wrote:

The only places I've seen such long pieces of 2x4 were in old balloon-
framed houses. One reason balloon-framing ended was the availability
and cost of such wood.


The glue-lam framing industry uses them quite a bit, with a production
line making all sorts of very long "timbers" from 2x4s and 2x6s held
together by glue that is RF heat-sealed (13.6 MHz ISM stuff) and a
flying-arm saw cutting them to length in a continuous process. I got
to visit such a plant once, and marveled that everything worked as
well as it did.
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net


Phil Kane March 18th 08 06:30 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 14:04:13 EDT, wrote:

The current housing bust has mostly put an
end to that, but not completely. More than a few locals are up in arms
because it means less "affordable" housing units.


There are homes now being built near here advertised as "golf course
homes starting in the mid-700s". I understand that most of them are a
Mill or more, and were sold even before construction started. For
some people there is no recession.....

Small shacks they are not - and I'll bet that there are CC&Rs against
putting up ham antennas even by folks with that kind of dough.
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net


Phil Kane March 18th 08 06:35 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 14:04:13 EDT, wrote:

That depends on two factors: scaling (as a house gets bigger, the
interior volume grows faster than the exterior wall/roof area) and how
houses are built.


A new mega-room mansion built near here by a developer for his own
family residence necessitated a much larger natural gas line to be put
into the neighborhood just to provide the heating of the place.

Every time I pass the place I envision where I could put up a 100 foot
tower with no real visual impact.
--

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest

Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

e-mail: k2asp [at] arrl [dot] net


[email protected] March 18th 08 11:54 PM

And now for something totally different!
 
On Mar 16, 6:53 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 16, 3:50� am, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:


What's funny is that after you've lived in one of those places for
a while, these things tend to seem perfectly rational. When the embassy
water pump broke, we lived for six weeks with a string of locals hiking
the five flights to our flat with a bucket full of water in each hand.
They'd dump the buck in a plastic garbage can, turn around and trot down
the stairs for another couple of buckets. We lived like that for six
weeks--taking bucket baths, doing hand wash and so forth. Keep in mind
that all water used for drinking/cooking had to be boiled and filtered
before use, whether the pumps were in operation or not.


Thank you for your service to our country, Dave. You did that sort of
thing
for how many years, on top of military service?

We had a pipe burst inside a wall of our laundry room once. There was
no pipe available in town. Worker dug into the concrete wall, found the
break and used rubber tubing and hose clamps to join the broken pieces.
With every surge of the water pump, the tubing expanded and contracted,
looking like it had a pulse. WAWA--West Africa Wins Again.


bwaahaahaa!

Around here, "WAWA" means something completely different: Popular
convenience stores.

TNX. Not a single new part was used. It's done a good job these past
dozen years.


That's the ultimate in junk box building and a good track record for the
finished project.


Yet some would look down on it as "junk" and "a kludge".

IIRC, the HQ-215 lamps aren't *inside* the dial drum, are
they?


Yes, it is. There's only one inside the drum and another for the
S-meter. To the left of the dial window is a calibration adjustment.
To the right is an identical knob which dims the dial lamps if desired.
I desire it a lot since dimming them a bit keeps from having to put in
new lamps very often.


Perhaps the Type 8 will have a dimmer pot.....

I received the data from Engineering.


Good. Ms. Yardley sends greetings.


Heh.


As Richard Thompson says:

"Red hair and black leather, my favorite colour scheme..."

It's all about the curls....

I've read the eham thread and have even participated.


Excellent!


I don't know if it is or not. There's been some anger exhibited over
some issues. Quite a bit of erroneous information has been passed.


No matter; the important thing is that knowledgeable folks have
presented valid data.

I agree. Those articles and notes often go far beyond mere
specifications and general data, too. They often explain *why*
something is done, not just what to do.


Exactly. I'd never realized until I got the binder that Eimac had even
published amateur linear amplifier "how to" articles. A linear amp
isn't a difficult thing to design yourself if you understand why a final
tank Q within a paricular range is desired and you can use tables
published by Orr for translating the plate load impedence of a
particular bottle (run at a particular plate voltage) to find the values
of C1, C2 and L needed for the tank circuit.


I found "The Care And Feeding of Power Tetrodes" free for the
download,
along with lots more Eimac stuff at the BAMA mirror site.

They also have quite a few of the GE Ham News periodicals scanned.

There is a great difference between a receiving-type
tube run at relatively low voltages and a high power transmitting tube
run at high voltages. Their construction is quite different.


Until relatively recently, oxide-coated cathodes could not withstand
high plate voltages,
so tubemakers continued to use thoriated-tungsten filaments for
transmitting tubes
beyond 100-200 W or so. Tube size is another factor; a 3-500Z can
handle more than
ten times the watts of a 6146 but is not ten times the size, so other
methods have
to be employed.

Or that, in the case of high-gain glass tetrodes like
the 4-125A, running lightly loaded can cause the glass of the tube to
soften from electron bombardment.


That sort of thing was also evident in TV horizontal output tubes. As I
pointed out in the e-ham forum, Nonex glass was used in some later sweep
tubes to help in preventing suck-in.


I think the horizontal output suck-in problem was simply caused by
excessive heat
from the plate, in a poorly-ventilated TV.

What is described by Eimac in "Care And Feeding" was the glass being
softened
by electron bombardment of the glass, caused by running the tube
lightly loaded (low
plate current).

Having the parts to keep something running isn't the
problem. Storage is.


I could tell ya stories about *storage*....

I've read articles stating that NASA is having real problem as those
with knowledge of the design of such engines are retiring or have
already retired.


Or are dead. Consider that someone who was, say, 40 years old in 1964
and working on the Apollo project would be 84 today.

What I might have considered is that
newer composite decking material which is designed to last for decades.


The composite deck material is great stuff but it's softer than
Corian, and
I didn't have any. Plus I don't think it comes in white. (Note to self
- raid
relative's basement for the rest of the Corian before they decide to
toss it.)

I'm not familiar with the term "balloon framing". I'm looking it up. I
don't think there's anything available from my local lumberyard in
lengths exceeding 16'.


We used to be able to get up to 20 foot 2x4s but you paid a premium
per
foot and the quality wasn't as good.

We call them "McMansions" in these parts.


There are some of 'em in Wheeling, but not many. I think those homes
were the product of a booming economy and easy credit. Those days are
over for at least the time being.


Yes, that's exactly what caused them. Some folks are left holding the
bag.

It is not unusual around here to see a perfectly good house from the
1950s to 1970s bought and torn down by a developer so a McMansion can
be built. The value is in the land - often the price of the new place
is twice that of the old. The current housing bust has mostly put an
end to that, but not completely. More than a few locals are up in arms
because it means less "affordable" housing units.


I can't really understand the "up in arms" part because we really having
a surplus of existing housing in the country.


What they're up in arms about is that houses in the $300,000 -
$500,000
range are being replaced by houses worth double that or more, on the
same lots. That drastically reduces the number of people who can
afford
to even think about buying them. During a downturn those houses become
unsellable.

On top of that, they tend to increase the impervious surface
percentage of
the lot, so there's more stormwater runoff when it rains. Which floods
the
folks downhill, who were never flooded before, and increases erosion
issues.

The amateur radio connection to all of this is that often the house
which was torn down had mature trees good for antennas and no CC&Rs.
"Development" often removes at least some of the trees, or they don't
survive the construction process, and the new place is usually CC&R'd
to the max.


That IS a problem for radio amateurs. Â I think a bigger problem is th

at
most of our newer housing is built in subdivisions. Â Those subdivisio

ns
are not radio friendly at all. Â I'm seeing more and more magazine
articles on stealth antennas. Â I won't consider living in one of thos

e
areas.


I hope and pray I will never have to consider living in one of those
places, but
as time goes on and more old houses are torn down and replaced by
radio-
unfriendly CC&R'd places, the options decrease.

We're sitting on an acre. Â If we re-locate, I'd be happier with 2 or

3
acres. Â I wouldn't object if half of that area happened to be in tree

s
or woods though.


I've seen the pix; I hope for such a location someday. Non-radio
factors
keep me on my little patch of Radnor Township.

The "how houses are built" part is what I meant to address. Â Things l

ike
a geothermal heating/cooling systems are another factor. Â W8RHM's new


place has one and it is a large house. Â His heating and cooling bills


are quite reasonable.


Because he's not really paying for heating or cooling; he's paying to
run pumps.
A few of the locals here have gone to geothermal; it works. The main
problem
is the first cost.

Beautiful, just beautiful..


If not beautiful, at least it isn't ugly. Â


Beauty in both form and function.

The console and the former
W8YX desk got hauled to each of my Foreign Service postings. Â The
console is approaching thirty years in age. Â It gets a new coat of pa

int
about once per decade.


What is this "paint" of which you speak?

One difference is that your console/desk is purpose-built for the
shack. Custom use, IOW. The op desk I use was designed to be multi-
purpose, and has been on several Field Days, as have the Southgate
rigs.


N8NN and I have been using those plastic-topped banquet tables with the
folding legs inside a screen room for FD use. Â That's because 1) they

're
easy to set up and take down and 2) Bert has some.


I have considered those. If they will fit flat in the current vehicle
they have
possibilities. And again they are multi-use; they won't just be for
FD.

It is really difficult to buy something which is really ideal for an
amateur radio operating position. Â Computer hutches/desks tend to be

a
little on the small side and aren't generally as stoutly built as
necessary. Â For some of us, what worked really well at one point migh

t
not be as handy years later, when the amount of gear expands to fill all
available space. Â I used to get by with the old W8YX desk with a 3x5'


top. Â The position I now use is 3x7'. If I relocate, I'll consider a
homebrew U-shaped operating position. Â The room I'm in at present doe

s
not lend itself to that.


I don't think anything off-the-shelf is really suited for more than a
very small
ham shack. One problem is depth; the equipment needs to sit pretty far
from the op
but the usual 24-30 inch table or computer desk isn't deep enough.

It really is time for new shack/shop furniture for me. The Southgate
Radio team is
on it....

73 de Jim, N2EY


Dave Heil[_2_] March 19th 08 03:51 AM

And now for something totally different!
 
wrote:
On Mar 16, 6:53 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 16, 3:50� am, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:


What's funny is that after you've lived in one of those places for
a while, these things tend to seem perfectly rational. When the embassy
water pump broke, we lived for six weeks with a string of locals hiking
the five flights to our flat with a bucket full of water in each hand.
They'd dump the buck in a plastic garbage can, turn around and trot down
the stairs for another couple of buckets. We lived like that for six
weeks--taking bucket baths, doing hand wash and so forth. Keep in mind
that all water used for drinking/cooking had to be boiled and filtered
before use, whether the pumps were in operation or not.


Thank you for your service to our country, Dave. You did that sort of
thing
for how many years, on top of military service?


Sixteen or so, Jim. Whenever one of my Foreign Service colleagues would
gripe about one or another of the African privations, I'd usually add,
"well, at least they aren't shooting at us."

We had a pipe burst inside a wall of our laundry room once. There was
no pipe available in town. Worker dug into the concrete wall, found the
break and used rubber tubing and hose clamps to join the broken pieces.
With every surge of the water pump, the tubing expanded and contracted,
looking like it had a pulse. WAWA--West Africa Wins Again.


bwaahaahaa!


Around here, "WAWA" means something completely different: Popular
convenience stores.


I'm almost afraid to ask for details.

TNX. Not a single new part was used. It's done a good job these past
dozen years.


That's the ultimate in junk box building and a good track record for the
finished project.


Yet some would look down on it as "junk" and "a kludge".


I don't see how that view could be taken. I always had nothing but
admiration for the fellow who homebrewed all or part of his rig.
One of the OT's from Cincinnati had a great station consisting of a
solid-stated National HRO-50 and homebrew SSB transceiver and homebrew
amp. G2FIX's copy of the Collins S-line was some of the most beautiful
homebrew work I've ever seen. I have photos of it somewhere on the web.
If you Google "G2FIX" you may find it on the site of an ex-G living in
5-land.

IIRC, the HQ-215 lamps aren't *inside* the dial drum, are
they?

Yes, it is. There's only one inside the drum and another for the
S-meter. To the left of the dial window is a calibration adjustment.
To the right is an identical knob which dims the dial lamps if desired.
I desire it a lot since dimming them a bit keeps from having to put in
new lamps very often.


Perhaps the Type 8 will have a dimmer pot.....


Heh. Pick a resistor and solder it in.

I received the data from Engineering.
Good. Ms. Yardley sends greetings.

Heh.


As Richard Thompson says:

"Red hair and black leather, my favorite colour scheme..."

It's all about the curls....


I love it!

I've read the eham thread and have even participated.
Excellent!


I don't know if it is or not. There's been some anger exhibited over
some issues. Quite a bit of erroneous information has been passed.


No matter; the important thing is that knowledgeable folks have
presented valid data.


Tom Rauch W8JI has presented quite a bit of excellent data. He's been
designing linear amps for several companies for quite a number of years.
He once helped me troubleshoot I was having with a burned up plate choke
in an AL-1200 Ameritron amp via telephone from 5,000 miles away.

I agree. Those articles and notes often go far beyond mere
specifications and general data, too. They often explain *why*
something is done, not just what to do.


Exactly. I'd never realized until I got the binder that Eimac had even
published amateur linear amplifier "how to" articles. A linear amp
isn't a difficult thing to design yourself if you understand why a final
tank Q within a paricular range is desired and you can use tables
published by Orr for translating the plate load impedence of a
particular bottle (run at a particular plate voltage) to find the values
of C1, C2 and L needed for the tank circuit.


I found "The Care And Feeding of Power Tetrodes" free for the
download,
along with lots more Eimac stuff at the BAMA mirror site.


There's lots of good material there.


They also have quite a few of the GE Ham News periodicals scanned.


I found those. I think that's where I found a pdf of the vintage
Hammarlund clock face. I bought a nice looking HQ-180 a few years back
from the newspaper classifieds. It never had a clock installed. I
printed the clock face from the pdf and bought an inexpensive 24 hour
battery powered movement with appropriate hands from some web site.
Of course it won't turn the rig on as the original clock, but those
movements are pretty hard to find these days.

There is a great difference between a receiving-type
tube run at relatively low voltages and a high power transmitting tube
run at high voltages. Their construction is quite different.


Until relatively recently, oxide-coated cathodes could not withstand
high plate voltages,
so tubemakers continued to use thoriated-tungsten filaments for
transmitting tubes
beyond 100-200 W or so. Tube size is another factor; a 3-500Z can
handle more than
ten times the watts of a 6146 but is not ten times the size, so other
methods have
to be employed.


Yep, and unlike 6146's, those bottles will show red when run within
their designed ratings.

Or that, in the case of high-gain glass tetrodes like
the 4-125A, running lightly loaded can cause the glass of the tube to
soften from electron bombardment.


That sort of thing was also evident in TV horizontal output tubes. As I
pointed out in the e-ham forum, Nonex glass was used in some later sweep
tubes to help in preventing suck-in.


I think the horizontal output suck-in problem was simply caused by
excessive heat
from the plate, in a poorly-ventilated TV.


I think a Doug DeMaw amplifier article (later reprinted in the Handbook)
showed how the same problem could crop up in a sweep tube amplifier.

What is described by Eimac in "Care And Feeding" was the glass being
softened
by electron bombardment of the glass, caused by running the tube
lightly loaded (low
plate current).


Right. I don't think anyone could argue that Eimac knew power bottles
inside and out.

Having the parts to keep something running isn't the
problem. Storage is.


I could tell ya stories about *storage*....


The radio overflow here is in a 16x30 foot Amish barn we had built. It
isn't inconvenient unless it is snowing or, like today, raining heavily.

I've read articles stating that NASA is having real problem as those
with knowledge of the design of such engines are retiring or have
already retired.


Or are dead. Consider that someone who was, say, 40 years old in 1964
and working on the Apollo project would be 84 today.


Dead works too.

What I might have considered is that
newer composite decking material which is designed to last for decades.


The composite deck material is great stuff but it's softer than
Corian, and
I didn't have any. Plus I don't think it comes in white. (Note to self
- raid
relative's basement for the rest of the Corian before they decide to
toss it.)


I don't think I've seen the composite decking in white and yes, grab the
Corian scraps.

I'm not familiar with the term "balloon framing". I'm looking it up. I
don't think there's anything available from my local lumberyard in
lengths exceeding 16'.


We used to be able to get up to 20 foot 2x4s but you paid a premium
per
foot and the quality wasn't as good.


Yeah, I recall early handbook articles about 20 foot California Redwood
1x2's or 2x4's. Here in the East, I never saw any of that stuff in
lumberyards.

We call them "McMansions" in these parts.


There are some of 'em in Wheeling, but not many. I think those homes
were the product of a booming economy and easy credit. Those days are
over for at least the time being.


Yes, that's exactly what caused them. Some folks are left holding the
bag.


Well, I consider that a bag of their own making. They tried to buy more
house than they were really able to afford and they opted for those
variable-rate loans. They seemed to have forgotten that the rates could
go up as well as down.

It is not unusual around here to see a perfectly good house from the
1950s to 1970s bought and torn down by a developer so a McMansion can
be built. The value is in the land - often the price of the new place
is twice that of the old. The current housing bust has mostly put an
end to that, but not completely. More than a few locals are up in arms
because it means less "affordable" housing units.


I can't really understand the "up in arms" part because we really having
a surplus of existing housing in the country.


What they're up in arms about is that houses in the $300,000 -
$500,000
range are being replaced by houses worth double that or more, on the
same lots. That drastically reduces the number of people who can
afford
to even think about buying them. During a downturn those houses become
unsellable.


I'm used to living in an area where there aren't enough people to buy up
the houses which are already available. At the same time, more new
houses are being built.

On top of that, they tend to increase the impervious surface
percentage of
the lot, so there's more stormwater runoff when it rains. Which floods
the
folks downhill, who were never flooded before, and increases erosion
issues.


I can see that as a legitimate gripe.

The amateur radio connection to all of this is that often the house
which was torn down had mature trees good for antennas and no CC&Rs.
"Development" often removes at least some of the trees, or they don't
survive the construction process, and the new place is usually CC&R'd
to the max.


That IS a problem for radio amateurs. � I think a bigger problem is th

at
most of our newer housing is built in subdivisions. Those subdivisions
are not radio friendly at all. I'm seeing more and more magazine
articles on stealth antennas. I won't consider living in one of those
areas.


I hope and pray I will never have to consider living in one of those
places, but
as time goes on and more old houses are torn down and replaced by
radio-unfriendly CC&R'd places, the options decrease.


That's too bad. That's perhaps one of the reasons why I don't want to
live too near a larger city.

We're sitting on an acre. If we re-locate, I'd be happier with 2 or 3
acres. I wouldn't object if half of that area happened to be in trees
or woods though.


I've seen the pix; I hope for such a location someday. Non-radio
factors keep me on my little patch of Radnor Township.


I think we've been spoiled by living out here. It is incredibly
quiet--especially in the evenings/nights. The radio quiet is
phenomenal. The dark skies make for some really great astronomical views.

The "how houses are built" part is what I meant to address. Things like
a geothermal heating/cooling systems are another factor. W8RHM's new
place has one and it is a large house. His heating and cooling bills
are quite reasonable.


Because he's not really paying for heating or cooling; he's paying to
run pumps.
A few of the locals here have gone to geothermal; it works. The main
problem
is the first cost.


I think the things typically run about $10k or so additional over the
cost of a new house with conventional heat.

Beautiful, just beautiful..


If not beautiful, at least it isn't ugly.


Beauty in both form and function.


It's nice when you can combine the two.

The console and the former
W8YX desk got hauled to each of my Foreign Service postings. The
console is approaching thirty years in age. It gets a new coat of paint
about once per decade.


What is this "paint" of which you speak?


You never use paint?

One difference is that your console/desk is purpose-built for the
shack. Custom use, IOW. The op desk I use was designed to be multi-
purpose, and has been on several Field Days, as have the Southgate
rigs.


N8NN and I have been using those plastic-topped banquet tables with the
folding legs inside a screen room for FD use. That's because 1) they're
easy to set up and take down and 2) Bert has some.


I have considered those. If they will fit flat in the current vehicle
they have
possibilities. And again they are multi-use; they won't just be for
FD.


They make fine picnic tables, seating for additional dinner guests,
craft tables and garage sale tables.

It is really difficult to buy something which is really ideal for an
amateur radio operating position. Computer hutches/desks tend to be a
little on the small side and aren't generally as stoutly built as
necessary. For some of us, what worked really well at one point might
not be as handy years later, when the amount of gear expands to fill all
available space. � I used to get by with the old W8YX desk with a 3x5'
top. The position I now use is 3x7'. If I relocate, I'll consider a
homebrew U-shaped operating position. The room I'm in at present does
not lend itself to that.


I don't think anything off-the-shelf is really suited for more than a
very small
ham shack. One problem is depth; the equipment needs to sit pretty far
from the op
but the usual 24-30 inch table or computer desk isn't deep enough.


Yep. I consider 36" to be a minimum.


It really is time for new shack/shop furniture for me. The Southgate
Radio team is
on it....


Check out PAINT this time. It keeps the grime from getting into the
wood fibers.

Dave K8MN


Dave Heil[_2_] March 20th 08 06:54 AM

And now for something totally different!
 
wrote:
On Mar 19, 6:10� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 18, 11:51� pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 16, 6:53 pm, Dave Heil wrote:
wrote:


They did, however, do things like bombing the embassy....


Right. � That happened in Dar es Salaam in 1998. � I was here, bet

ween
assignments and arrived three weeks after the bombing. � The only
shooting which went on at the site of the temporary embassy site was
when a drunken Tanzanian soldier fired three or four rounds from an
AK-47 into the ground. � The Tanzanian army was detailed to protect th

e
temporary embassy after the company of U.S. Marines departed. � I neve

r
did get very comfortable coming up the drive with a sleeping Tanzanian
soldier manning the tripod-mounted machine gun in the front yard of the
place.


You were there a couple of years, as I recall.


Yes--1998-2000.

Sadly, it says G2FIX is now a Silent Key.

I ran across the web site and e-mailed the fellow who put it up. � I t

old
him that I'd met Bert in the 70's while vacationing in Salisbury and
that I had more photos of him. � He asked if I would be willing to sen

d
the scans to him and allow him to post them on his site. � Bert was a
fine fellow and heavily involved in the Royal Signals club, mobile
rallies, FOC and, as you've seen, in homebrewing.


There's a certain British approach to engineering and craftsmanship
that is underappreciated on this side of the pond IMHO.

For example, the BBC was doing regular scheduled electronic TV
broadcasting in 1936-37, and only shut down when WW2 broke out.

They invented things like the re-entrant multiple cavity magnetron,
practical jet engines, the dambuster bomb and delivery system (fly a
Lancaster 50 feet off the water at night? No problem!) and much more.


Somewhere here in the shack, I have a little green hardbound book on
Baird's work.

I have an RSGB handbook from the 1960s. It's quite different from the
ARRL Handbooks of the time - more technical, more projects, more
advanced and varied stuff. But nothing on operating, history,
licensing, or the RSGB.


You can make up for that lack of info if you can find a wonderful book
from the 70's called, "The World at Their Fingertips".

For example, the phenomenal G2DAF receivers, particularly the last
version. Incredible sophistication and performance.


Really great designs. He kept at it for a long time. He provided many
mods for commercial rigs like the Yaesu FT-101 series.

Of course part of that was the different economics of homebrewing in
Europe at the time.


....and that went on through the 70's too. Taxes on imported equipment
were very high throughout most of Europe.

I like the pot idea better - just like the BC-348...


Yeah! � I have a Q model of that one. I have it paired with a
Lafayette
Preselector/converter so it'll hit 15 and 10m.


For years I had a BC-348R, and the book. Took it many places, acquired
two parts units. Sold 'em when I moved from the house on
RadioTelegraph Hill.

I kept the BC-342-N that I bought for two dollars at a hamfest in
Wrightstown many years ago.


That's another worthy receiver. My old pal K8IP had the '348Q. It's a
real keeper. Over the years I've had a number of the 342's, 312's and
348's.

Tom Rauch W8JI has presented quite a bit of excellent data. �
Agreed. Not only that, but in easily-understood form, with data to
back it up.
He's been
designing linear amps for several companies for quite a number of years

.

I did not know that! He's not one to brag, though.


Dentron, Ameritron and perhaps a couple of others.


Good stuff!


....and affordable--sort of the everyman's amp series from both companies.

He's also a very skilled operator, to grossly understate the case.


...assisted by an antenna farm to die for.


Yes but even the best rig and antenna will not make up for a lack of
operator skill.


....not by themselves, but they'll surely put a dent in it. It's not
easy to establish a run if you can't be heard.

There's another site--something about technical books online--where I
was able to download pdf's of old GE, Sylvania and RCA tube manuals
(including a '38 RCA transmitting tube manual) along with early editions
of the Radio Handbook and the ARRL Handbook.


Pete Millett's site. All kinds of stuff. There's also Frank's Tube
Data Pages.


I'll check that one out.

� I have a 24 hour clock atop
the amp, one in the computer and one of those "atomic clock" things
hanging on the shack wall.


I have a classic Numechron Tymeter 24 hour digital clock for the
shack. It was made from parts of three junkers back in the 1980s and
runs perfectly today. I might have three dollars invested in it.


I used to have one of those and would love to find another. They're
getting rather pricey these days. I'm happy to report that I have less
in my atomic clock than you have in your tymeter. My neighbor bought it
new and gave it to me when the outside temperature transmitter quit
working. I found a web site where I can order the transmitter for ten
bucks postpaid.

They liked the Compactron-based tubes like the 6KD6 because they had
the suppressor/BF plates
brought out to a pin, so they could run grounded-grid without doing
the kind of surgery needed by
1625s and such. Those sweep tubes *were* also plentiful, inexpensive,
and worked well with
low voltage/high current B+. The article I remember used a link-
coupled output tank (!) instead of
a pi-net because the output impedance was so low.

Yep. � Quite a number of manufacturers were making sweep tube amps dur

ing
the period when tube-type televisions abounded. � P&H, WRL/Galaxy, SBE


and Yaesu come to mind. �


What did P&H make? The only product of theirs I remember was the
LA-400, which used four surplus 1625s doctored so the BF plates had
their own base pin and could be grounded. Not all brands of 1625 could
be converted like that, but some could.


That's right. P&H's later offering was a low profile, chrome plated
until called the P&H Spitfire--the LA-500M. It used six 12JB6's at 500w
input and was introduced in the early 60's.

A couple of others (Dentron and Ameritron)
continued well past the time when those tubes were being used in TV
sets. � It is hard to find finals for those amps these days and the
current "cheapy" amps are using Russian or Chinese copies of 811A's or
572B's.


Yup. There are also conversions of those old amps to use other tubes,
mostly Soviet types. Some amps like the Heath SB-230 can often be had
for a song because the tube they use is so expensive and hard to find.


One of the most modified is the old Dentron MLA-2500 which used
expensive and hard to find metal ceramics. Svetlana published a mod
using a pair of their modestly priced metal ceramics.

Back in the 1960s the ARRL Handbook had a single 3-1000Z amp that
still looks good today. In inflation-adjusted dollars it probably
costs less now than it did then.


Those bottles are hard to come buy these days. I think it is hard to
beat a pair of 3-500's for legal limit or near legal limit power.
They're relatively inexpensive, can be used with or without the air
system chimneys and sockets and the graphite anode variants are quite
rugged.

Some will argue such points anyway.


There's arguing and there is successfully arguing.


True!


Heh.

At one point I had stuff in the attic, the garage, the shack, the
shack ceiling,
under the deck, and in three different remote storage sites (only one
of which
charged me rent). That's been greatly simplified in the past few
years.

I had everything in the basement when I lived in Cincy. � Prior to tha

t,
I'd generally have a corner of a room as a shack or a part of a
basement, with parts stuffed into a closet. � My current shack consist

s
of two rooms in the old part of the house. � I have a separate stairca

se
and the main shack (about 16x16') and an adjacent room (about 16x12').


NICE!

In the house on RadioTelegraph Hill, everything was in the basement.
But it was a big basement. (sigh) Less room here.


It is a sad state of affairs when it won't all fit in two rooms.

You have to remember that before WW2 lumber was quite a different
commodity; it
was inexpensive and plentiful compared to today. A "2x4" was a lot
closer to 2" by 4" then,
too.

That's right. � There's a lot of the full dimensional lumber used in t

his
place. � Some of it is even oak. � Our main staircase is an open d

esign
using full dimensional oak 4x4 stock with oak planks.


My house in Palmyra NY was built in 1900. It's still there, looking
good.


We have a goodly number of those in this area, on both sides of the
river and into Greene County, Pennsylvania. Many of them have been
updated, insulated and look good. Many others haven't.

In this area there are still many homes in the $150-170k range being
built. � One can find many existing homes in the 50-90k range. � O

ut here
near Cameron, it is possible to buy a perfectly good house for under 30k.


Boy do I want to move! But one has to go where the jobs are.


....right up until retirement time rolls around. Then you're free to
live where you like.

They are no longer limited to cities. Acquaintance of mine went
looking for the dream-retirement location, found a developer building
custom homes in Colorado. Perfect setup for ham radio, lots of three
acres and up. And a ton of CC&Rs, including no antennas.

That's not *my idea* of a dream. � I'm sure there are plenty of spots
within that state where it is possible to buy some land and built a
house, not that I'd want to.


He looked elsewhere. Point is, you'd have thought places like that
would not be CC&R'd but they were.


I've been going through realtors listings for the southern part of this
state, getting an idea of what's available and what prices are
like--this for our eventual sale of this place to the approaching
longwall coal mine. I'm not bookmarking any homes which are in
subdivisions.

I used to live just north of the Finger Lakes region of New York
State. (That's why
I have a 2-land call). I owned 46 feet of
the original Erie Canal at one point. I know what you mean.

"I've got a mule and her name is Saaaal..."


"Fifteen Miles on the Erie Canal."

Centerport - Port Byron - Lock Berlin - Port Gibson - Wayneport -
guess where those place names came from?


Gee, Jim, I don't know--the Eric Canal?

That has to be pretty territory.


The best. Plus to the south are the drumlins and the lakes. Winters
are tough but the folks there are used to them.


I think you mean that they've learned to put up with them.

My guess is that not many folks have the opportunity to do terribly much
about choosing a home based upon amateur radio until they retire.


If then!


Most but "stay putters" have the option. You needn't sell the XYL on an
antenna farm. Practice saying things like, "plenty of room for a
garden" and "park-like setting".

� It'd
be tough to find yourself interersted in becoming a radio amateur after
you'd already bought a place in one of those developments under
covenants and restrictions.


That is one of the major challenges facing amateur radio today. If
someone is already a ham, they should know enough to avoid buying a
restricted place. But how many people will move just to have an
outdoor antenna?


There are always guys like me. *grin*

I think the things typically run about $10k or so additional over the
cost of a new house with conventional heat.
Depends on how deep they have to drill to get the needed groundwater,
and what they have to drill through.
But such is the future, for those who will look.

I may be mistaken, but I don't think any groundwater is used at W8RHM's
place. � His is a horizontal system and I believe it uses air. � I

'll have
to ask. � It surely doesn't cost much to heat air fifteen or sixteen
degrees higher or cool it up to thirty or forty degrees lower than
ambient Earth temperature.


I did some research and found there are several types of system.
Groundwater is only one type, popular on small lots where there's no
room horizontally.

Where there is enough land, what is done is to bury a field of pipes
and run water through them.


Okay.

I prefer varnish.

Ahhh! � Well if you have crappy-looking stock to begin with, you can f

ill
the blems, sand it smooth and, after painting, you'll have an attractive
piece. � If you just cover the blems with varnish, you'll be able to l

ook
right through it and see the blemishes.


I don't use crappy-looking stock where it will show....

The first table I built, way back in the early 1970s, was made from
the wood in old shipping pallets. These were *old* pallets, and the
wood in them was incredible. I had access to a radial arm saw and a
planer, and made my own stock.


There's an idea for a guy who needs a sturdy but inexpensive table for
the shack. A couple of local outfits near here have so many pallets
that they are constantly running ads in the local paper for "free wooden
pallets".

Dave K8MN



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:12 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
RadioBanter.com