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Dwight Stewart August 12th 03 12:28 AM

Cheap, Light-duty, Freestanding, Antenna Tower??
 


Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed), antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small 2m
radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't have to
be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm sure others
would be interested in this also.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Tarmo Tammaru August 12th 03 04:57 AM


"Dwight Stewart" wrote in message
.. .


Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed),

antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small 2m
radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't have

to
be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm sure others
would be interested in this also.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/

If they still make it, the Rohn HBX series would be the least expensive.
(Notice, I didn't say cheap). It comes in 8 foot sections that bolt
together. The top section is the skinniest, about 6 in on a side, and
sections get progressivly larger towards the bottom. It is light enough that
one person could lift a 32 foot tower. Good for 10 sq. ft. of antenna. Self
supporting, if you mount it on a concrete base.

Another low end tower is the USTower MA40. This is a tubular crank up tower
with a hinged bottom. You either need their raising fixture (expensive) and
a concrete base, or support it at about 8 feet against a building. It comes
with the building support bracket; this method only requires a few bags of
concrete. Also rated at 10 sq. ft. of antenna.. With this tower the rotor
can not be mounted inside the tower, and you can not use a thrust bearing.

If you live in a fringe TV area that recently got cable, you should be able
to get a TV tower for free if you take it down. The ones I see in South
Jersey seem to be 40 - 50 feet.

Tam/WB2TT



J999w August 12th 03 06:41 AM

Radio Shack's telescoping masts work well and are cheap.

Do you need to climb it?

jw
wb9uai

M. J. Powell August 12th 03 11:28 AM

In message , Dwight Stewart
writes


Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed), antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small 2m
radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't have to
be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm sure others
would be interested in this also.


I have a 25 ft pole made of plasticised paper, in 4 sections, with brass
inserts at each end. Ex-army. I paid 5 GBP (nearly a week's pay) for it
in 1953!

I used it guyed with light plastic line. It supported a 10 ele 2m beam
for several years.

Mike
--
M.J.Powell

Dan/W4NTI August 12th 03 10:20 PM


"Dwight Stewart" wrote in message
.. .


Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed),

antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small 2m
radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't have

to
be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm sure others
would be interested in this also.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Go to your hardware store and buy a Aluminum ladder. Clamp it to the side
of the building and guy as necessary.

Just an idea.

Dan/W4NTI



Dwight Stewart August 13th 03 09:10 AM

"Dan/W4NTI" wrote:

Go to your hardware store and buy a Aluminum
ladder. Clamp it to the side of the building
and guy as necessary.



As described in a previous message, there isn't a lot of room for guy
wires. The area is about two and a half feet wide - just enough room for a
cement slab to support a small freestanding tower. After that, there just
isn't any room to run guy wires out very far. What there is (the building
and a nearby fence) isn't going to provide a strong support for guy wires.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Dwight Stewart August 14th 03 09:43 AM

"Brian Kelly" wrote:

A shallow concrete slab will not support any
tower unless the tower is well bracketed to
the house. There are only two choices: A large
block of concrete for the base or a slab with
a house bracket.



The word "slab" was probably a poor choice. I was mainly referring to the
width, not depth, of the concrete. The concrete will pretty much fill the
entire hole below the ground surface.


Use a mast made from steel pipe. I've used 'em
several times, works fine. Assume the bottom
section of the mast is made from a full length
of standard 2.5" Schedule 40 galvanized steel
pipe x 21 feet long. Top the base section with
a couple 10-12 foot lengths of smaller diameter
pipe and assemble the mast & antennas. Drive a
five foot length of 3" pipe into the ground,
clean it out, raise the mast to a vertical
position and drop it into the 3" pipe. (snip)



To make it freestanding, one would have to use some fairly thick steel
pipe (both wall thickness and pipe diameter), especially for longer lengths.
And pipe that heavy would almost require a crane to move it around. Because
of that, steel pipe might be fine for shorter masts (or guyed taller masts
using thinner pipe), but wouldn't really be feasible for a taller
freestanding structure (unless one owned a crane, but then the crane itself
could just be used to support the antennas).


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Brian Kelly August 14th 03 04:10 PM

"Crazy George" wrote in message ...
Brian:

You should mention to telescope the sections, rather than using threaded
reducing fittings, which are not strong enough for this kind of application.
Out of curiosity, how much overlap do you use?


I've done it both ways depending on a lot of variables. I noramally do
use threaded pipe reducers. As long as they're either steel or wrought
iron that is. The cheap hardware store cast grey iron reducers are
non-no's. I retap the reducers to get more thread engagement length.
It's been demonstrated that Schedule 40 pipe will fail in bending
before decent reducers fail. But in situations where the loads get
dicey and/or parts of the mast are tubing vs. pipe I use at least six
inch overlaps and have the joints welded.


--
Crazy George


w3rv

Tarmo Tammaru August 14th 03 04:13 PM


"Dwight Stewart" wrote in message
.. .
"Tarmo Tammaru" wrote:

If they still make it, the Rohn HBX series would
be the least expensive. (Notice, I didn't say
cheap). It comes in 8 foot... (snip)



Yep, that's the best I've found so far.


Dwight,

My first tower consisted of 3 sections of Rohn HBX. This gave me 24 feet. To
the top of this I added a 10 foot piece of 2 inch OD Al pipe. This was
fastened to the tower with angle iron and U bolts at the top plate and the
rotor shelf. Somebody gave it to me. It actually started life as a Hygain
vertical. The middle of the second section was fastened to the end of the
garage with TV house brackets. The ground mount consisted of three pieces of
pipe driven into the ground, with 1 bag of concrete to add some strength.

BTW, have you considered a roof tower? Even a garage roof would give you at
least 12 free feet.

Tam/WB2TT



Brian Kelly August 14th 03 04:51 PM

Dwight Stewart wrote in message ...
"Brian Kelly" wrote:

A shallow concrete slab will not support any
tower unless the tower is well bracketed to
the house. There are only two choices: A large
block of concrete for the base or a slab with
a house bracket.



The word "slab" was probably a poor choice. I was mainly referring to the
width, not depth, of the concrete. The concrete will pretty much fill the
entire hole below the ground surface.


OK.

Use a mast made from steel pipe. I've used 'em
several times, works fine. Assume the bottom
section of the mast is made from a full length
of standard 2.5" Schedule 40 galvanized steel
pipe x 21 feet long. Top the base section with
a couple 10-12 foot lengths of smaller diameter
pipe and assemble the mast & antennas. Drive a
five foot length of 3" pipe into the ground,
clean it out, raise the mast to a vertical
position and drop it into the 3" pipe. (snip)



To make it freestanding, one would have to use some fairly thick steel
pipe (both wall thickness and pipe diameter), especially for longer lengths.


That's nonsense. If you want a properly-designed pipe mast you do it
by the numbers, not with amateur "eyeball structural engineering"
and/or broad-brush statements like "have to use some fairly thick
steel pipe . . ". You won't know a thing about any pipe sizes until
and unless you run the numbers. A 40 foot pipe mast analysis is as
simple as it gets in the field of applied mechanics, any sophomore
student in any engineering discipline including the EEs who brought
you your HT can handle the job. A pipe mast is just a classic
cantilever beam.

And pipe that heavy would almost require a crane to move it around. Because
of that, steel pipe might be fine for shorter masts (or guyed taller masts
using thinner pipe), but wouldn't really be feasible for a taller
freestanding structure (unless one owned a crane, but then the crane itself
could just be used to support the antennas).


You gather up five buddies. You hang a pulley near the house bracket.
Run a rope from the ground, thru the pulley then down to the midpoint
of the mast. There's your "crane". Three guys walk the mast up and two
pull on the rope and up she goes.

Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


w3rv

w3rv

That Other George August 14th 03 07:12 PM

They don't work that well and they are not free standing! And they are
cheap because in 2 years they are so rusted you can no longer use it ;-(
I've been there and done that, I wont do it again.

Radio Shack's telescoping masts work well and are cheap.

Do you need to climb it?

jw
wb9uai




--
That Other George

Please send your spam to:

http://webpages.charter.net/moment/

http://webpages.charter.net/moment/winjunk.htm

That Other George August 14th 03 07:26 PM

I bought a 30 foot tower from my local TV shop a few years back for $35.00
a 10 section. The company that makes it is American Tower I think they are
in FL but a call to my local TV shop and he still sells the stuff only the
price is now $41.00 a 10 foot section :-) It's free standing to 30 feet
with a 3 foot X 3 foot X 3 foot base, or you can do what I did and stick 3
feet of the 30 foot tower in a 3' X 3' X 3' hole and fill it with
quickcrete and run the garden hose on it for a few min :-) I used 2 U
clamps to clamp it to the house in the middel of the 2nd section so my
tower is good to 50 feet I'm told with a 6sq ft load

Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed),
antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small
2m radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't
have to be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm
sure others would be interested in this also.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/




--
That Other George

Please send your spam to:

http://webpages.charter.net/moment/

http://webpages.charter.net/moment/winjunk.htm

Joe Strain August 14th 03 08:52 PM

THIS PLACE MIGHT BE A START if you got the surfin time for searching

http://www.fairradio.com/0mk-12.htm

12 foot Military Mast Kit. Comes with: three 47" long x 1 3/8"
fiberglass mast sections, one 8" top mast section which holds
two horizontal arial antennas and also has 16 feet of RG-58 coax
with a male BNC connection at the end, two 28" antenna elements
that thread to the top section, one guy ring with guy rope, three
9" stainless steel stakes, one 27" long mast base which mounts
directly into the ground, and O.D. green carrying bag with handle.
There is no indication of a model number on the assembly.
Excellent for field day or other portable antenna use.

12 lbs sh. #MK-12, $59.50 each; 2 for $99.50





yodar


"Dwight Stewart" wrote in message
.. .


Where can I find an inexpensive, freestanding (or lightly guyed),

antenna
tower? It doesn't have to support a lot of weight - a couple of small 2m
radio antennas and one or two scanner antennas. And it also doesn't have

to
be very tall - thirty to forty feet would be just fine. I'm sure others
would be interested in this also.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/




Dwight Stewart August 14th 03 11:55 PM

"Tarmo Tammaru" wrote:

My first tower consisted of 3 sections of Rohn
HBX. This gave me 24 feet. To the top of this
I added a 10 foot piece of 2 inch OD Al pipe.
This was fastened to the tower with angle iron
and U bolts at the top plate and the rotor
shelf. Somebody gave it to me. It actually
started life as a Hygain vertical. The middle
of the second section was fastened to the end
of the garage with TV house brackets. The
ground mount consisted of three pieces of pipe
driven into the ground, with 1 bag of concrete
to add some strength.



Now that is a good idea. We could just add eight or nine feet of pipe to
the top of maybe two tower sections. That would give enough height, without
breaking the bank. However, the base would have to be stronger. We live in
an area where tropical storms are routine and hurricanes are not rare. I
don't really expect it to stay up through a hurricane, but would like it to
survive most tropical storm winds. A solid concrete base, as described
elsewhere, would be better suited for the task.


BTW, have you considered a roof tower? Even a
garage roof would give you at least 12 free
feet.



Yep, the roof is out. We're leasing the commercial building and they're
very touchy about their relatively new roofing.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Dwight Stewart August 15th 03 04:58 AM

"Brian Kelly" wrote:

(snip) That's nonsense. (snip)



Not in an area with relatively routine tropical storms and the occasional
hurricane.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


Dwight Stewart August 15th 03 05:01 AM

"That Other George" wrote:

I bought a 30 foot tower from my local TV shop
a few years back for $35.00 a 10 section. The
company that makes it is American Tower I think
they are in FL but a call to my local TV shop
and he still sells the stuff only the price is
now $41.00 a 10 foot section :-) (snip)



Not bad at all. I'll check around with some of the local TV shops.


Dwight Stewart (W5NET)

http://www.qsl.net/w5net/


J999w August 15th 03 06:11 AM


They don't work that well and they are not free standing! And they are
cheap because in 2 years they are so rusted you can no longer use it ;-(
I've been there and done that, I wont do it again.

Radio Shack's telescoping masts work well and are cheap.

Do you need to climb it?

jw
wb9uai



That's curious, I've had on problem with rust what so ever on any of the RS
masts I've used (three total).

I've got one on the roof now for 5 years, no problems. Bottom section is run
through the access hatch, then bolted to attic floor. Holding a 5 el 6m beam
and 11e l 2m beam. Rock solid through many big winds.

jw
wb9uai
milwaukee


J. McLaughlin August 17th 03 06:42 PM

Please see comments below.
--
J. Mc Laughlin - Michigan USA
Home:

"Brian Kelly" wrote in message
snip

That's nonsense. If you want a properly-designed pipe mast you do it
by the numbers, not with amateur "eyeball structural engineering"
and/or broad-brush statements like "have to use some fairly thick
steel pipe . . ". You won't know a thing about any pipe sizes until
and unless you run the numbers. A 40 foot pipe mast analysis is as
simple as it gets in the field of applied mechanics, any sophomore
student in any engineering discipline including the EEs who brought
you your HT can handle the job. A pipe mast is just a classic
cantilever beam.


I agree with the essence of Brian's observation. However, I offer two
additional observations:
1. The engineering understanding of tall columns using steel has gone
through quite an evolution in my lifetime. Buckling of a vertical
cantilever beam (A.K.A. a column) is a different issue from the breaking
of an actual cantilever beam. Need to study the latest steel handbook
and the tower standard and use an appropriate safety factor that is
larger than 1. [Yes, the latter is a snide remark. People do sell
stuff with specifications that are accurate for a safety factor of one!]
2 The engineering understanding of the effects of wind has also
undergone quite an evolution. See the tower standard (222F, I think is
the last one published). Any simple relationship between "miles per
hour" and pressure is almost certain to be inappropriate. [Do not
believe most antenna manufacturer's survival ratings in terms of MPH.]

However, for the heights being discussed, the "roughness" of a typical
urban neighborhood will significantly reduce wind loading from what one
would expect using weather wind info. That fact provides an additional
safety factor that just does not exist where I have placed antennas and
towers.

I give a big Amen to Brian's observation that even EEs should be able to
run the numbers AND a big Amen to the need to run the numbers. This is
an area where one wants to check twice - or more.
73 Mac N8TT



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