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#21
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#23
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My webtv hand held remote control thangy and my webtv keyboard thangy
has two (count em,two) scroll functions.Slow and Fast.My webtv scrolls can scroll up and down just as fast (maybe even Faster) as your puter can. cuhulin |
#24
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I can leave you sittin at the Post.
cuhulin |
#25
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![]() Guy Atkins wrote: Hi Dallas, I've been curious about your noise-reducing antennas some time, so this past weekend I decided to build one as accurately as possible per your design. I first got interested these antennas in the early 1990s during some e-mail exchanges with Denzil Wraight in Germany. I used the 3:1 turns ratio in the antenna transformer, and 18 ga. twinlead speakerwire between it and the 1:1 transformer. The top of the 45 ft. vertical is suspended to a branch in a tall tree, and the bottom end fastened to a 5-ft. copper pipe in the ground. The antenna is located about 60 feet from the house, and my Wellbrook ALA 100 is 40 feet from the house. I was quite surprised find not just worse noise from the vertical, but MUCH worse noise. Signal levels seem good, but the noise is so bad the readability suffers greatly, compared to the loop. For instance, this morning past sunrise I was hearing JOAK in Tokyo on 594 kHz with an S-3 signal in Japanese, coming in nicely on the loop. However, the same frequency on the vertical was just a strong BUZZZZZ of light-dimmer type QRM. This was the most pronounced of the comparisons, but in most cases of checking frequencies up through HF, the loop was the outright winner. I tried to record 594 khz for comparisons, but I was using my modded R-75 and didn't have the recording software configured properly since my last DXpedition, and my SDR-1000 isn't fully hooked up at the moment. So, I wasn't able to make a quick recording before the signal faded with increasing daylight. I did find a couple signals on the tropical bands where the vertical provided a stronger signal with equal noise pickup (so therefore better S/N than the loop). However, my main interest right now is foreign MW signals. Do you have any tips for improving this antenna's noise rejection on MW? I can only think of two things that might impact the performance here. I used the same type of binocular core ferrites that W8JI recommends, as I have a lot of them. You used a traditional torroid form. Also, I don't know how good the ground needs to be for this antenna to work well; the single 5-ft pipe may not be sufficient (soil here is reasonably good, though, clay mixed with organic material...it's a forest floor). Thanks in advance for any ideas! Guy Atkins Puyallup, WA www.sdr-1000.blogspot.com I have found that a single ground point,ie "standard" 8' AC mains ground ro, are at best very marginal. And the lower the frequency, as a general rule, the "bigger" the ground should be. Hams often use radials. Think of the classic dipole. It has two arms. The classic vertical "monopole" needs a very good, ie low RF resistance, grounds. At the very least I would try for a set of 3 6' ground rods seperated from each other by at least 6'. I think I may have gone overboard with a whole house perimeter ground ring, but I was given the copper tubing and a friend used a small Ditch Witch to dig the trench. Did the improved ground make a difference over the discribed set of 3 rods? There is a 10W TIS station in Winchester that I couldn't receive on my 70' "long" wire antenna with a R2000. I tried a, as near as I could build it, identical ground set up and wire antenna at about the same height, from a friend's home who is about 5 miles closer and who has a lower RF background noise floor and I think I could detect the carrier in SSB. Maybe your soil is unusualy conductive and a 5' rod will suffice, but I suspect that a better, ie more complete, ground system will help all of your non dipole antennas. And exception to the "good" set of 3 ground rod "rule" is with the Lankford Active Antenna, AKA AMRAD, which will operate very nicely on a single 8' ground rod driven so that 2' remain above ground for a mounting base. With a Lankford Active Dipole no ground is required. I have tried one with and without the 6'/2' ground rod. And it worked very well both ways. At some frequencies the grounded operation was a little quiter. Of course with any active antenna great care should be taken to insure that common noise mode noise doesn't go up the braid and enter the antenna. The Dipole configeration is much less sensitive to common mode, but it attention to detail will be rewarded. The best single refference I have found is the "Common Mode Choke" PDF by W1HIS. I don't have the link handy, but I have given the link several times. A call to your local utility and/or a MW broadcaster can often get you valid information on local ground conductivity conditions. I did notice that on the coldest days last winter, when the temp droped to below 0F, where my older ground lost some effficeincy from the ground freezing, my new, super ground never varried. And this summer during the drier, though to be fair this was hardly a dry summer, periods my ground stayed effective. I am not really into NDB or MW DX but I can report that the improved ground really made a lot more NDBs receivable, and I found a lot more garbage stations on MW. A simpler super ground that we installed for Will, a new SWL that I am helping, consisted of a 1/4" copper tube that is about 20' long and connects his "SW" ground to the AC/Mains/Telco/SatDish ground. Lowered his noise by several S-units on a DX398 all across LW/MW and lower SW bands. He used a funky flat shovel to open a slot about 6" deep. I would have prefered deeper, but it was his home, copper and effort. Terry |
#26
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Hi Terry,
I tried a 4-foot ground rod because that's what Dallas showed in the antenna diagram for his article. I do see now that his older article (which he reproduces as an addendum to the newer version) shows and describes an 8-foot ground rod, however. I have a Bentonite-enhanced ground rod about 12 feet away from the 4-footer. I previously to use it for grounding the shield of a EWE antenna feedline, but it's not currently in use, so I might run a heavy wire to that one and give it a try. It's a good ground, and I've always had success with Bentonite enhancement. It's such a hassle to dig the larger hole to hold all the powdered Bentonite and water slurry, but the results can be worth the effort. In Seattle I've bought 50 lbs. of Bentonite for for just $13, but that was a few years ago. I used to get all I wanted for free, as my wife's home town in Wyoming has a number of Bentonite processing plants in the area. They would give away slightly ripped bags of the stuff to anyone crazy enough to ask for it! Guy wrote in message ups.com... I have found that a single ground point,ie "standard" 8' AC mains ground ro, are at best very marginal. And the lower the frequency, as a general rule, the "bigger" the ground should be. Hams often use radials. SNIP Terry |
#27
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![]() Guy Atkins wrote: Hi Terry, I tried a 4-foot ground rod because that's what Dallas showed in the antenna diagram for his article. I do see now that his older article (which he reproduces as an addendum to the newer version) shows and describes an 8-foot ground rod, however. I have a Bentonite-enhanced ground rod about 12 feet away from the 4-footer. I previously to use it for grounding the shield of a EWE antenna feedline, but it's not currently in use, so I might run a heavy wire to that one and give it a try. It's a good ground, and I've always had success with Bentonite enhancement. It's such a hassle to dig the larger hole to hold all the powdered Bentonite and water slurry, but the results can be worth the effort. In Seattle I've bought 50 lbs. of Bentonite for for just $13, but that was a few years ago. I used to get all I wanted for free, as my wife's home town in Wyoming has a number of Bentonite processing plants in the area. They would give away slightly ripped bags of the stuff to anyone crazy enough to ask for it! Guy Before I went completly nuts and put the perimenter ground ring in , I used clumping kitty litter, which uses a bentonite and baked/ground clay mixture. I poured the kitty litter in to a depth of several inches and added water and repeated until it was up to 5 or 6" fro the surface. I also had a capped 1" PVC pipe with holes drilled every inch or so that during realy dry summers I would route filtered grey water from the washing machine. The ground ring is significantly better as in lower over all noise floor, especially for VLF/whistler reception. The hardest part was convincing the telephone company to use my ground. They wanted to use a diky 4' ground rod. Altel oh ya. Two cans on a string would work as well. Terry |
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