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Ken wrote:
Next time dry the Bass off before putting it on your speaker! ;-) For some reason that reminded me of the gentleman who was refused a loan at the bank. He was very polite and left. A bit later he rented a safety deposit box there and filled it with some freshly caught fish before throwing away the key. I don't know if that story is true or not, but if it isn't, it should be. mike -- __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ / /\ / /\ / /\ / /\ / /\ / /\ / /\ / / / /\ \/ /\ \/ /\ \/ / /_/ \/_/ \/_/ \/_/ \/_/ \/_/ \/_/ \/_/ ..let the cat out to reply.. ©Densa International 'Think tanks cleaned cheap' |
Radio Man, try a 10uf non-polarized cap on your tweeter, to smooth out
frequency response. If you have a woofer coil, bypass it as well. Didn't see what type of receiver you're using, but most modern solid-state units emphasize bass-n-midrange as a means of fighting static crashes-n-other hi-frequency rfi content. Utilizing outboard amplification, via tape output, will produce acceptable hi-fi quality sonics. Got a cap modded ICOM R-75 which now replicates that 70's-era Pioneer midrange-centric fidelity, when driven through direct-coupled Marantz MR-235 amplification. Through the stock speaker, though, audio is still pedestrian at best. |
you need the nonpolarized capacitors that are used for speaker crossover
parts. radio shack used to have them fairly cheap. buy several of the largest value ones. one of the caps will go in series with the speaker. now it will sound thin and tinny. (like a midrange driver....... thats what the caps are for, to limit the bass to a midrange or tweeter driver) now drop another cap in parallel with the first one. there will be more bass available due to the change in capacitance. keep increasing the cap value this way until there is enough bass to sound like you want. |
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