Drake R8B Encoder Question
 

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

The encoder includes the shaft.

Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

Thanks, Steve.

dxAce wrote in message ...
mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

The encoder includes the shaft.

Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

The encoder wheel is located in a housing on the opposite end of the
shaft but it's all one (plastic) part. There are two ways to replace it.
You can buy it with/without the PC board that it's mounted on. The board
is actually a carry over from the original R8 which had an optical
encoder, so it's not really necessary for the A/B models. The encoder
without the PC board costs about $15. You can solder the three wires
coming from the encoder plug, to the pins on the encoder housing,
eliminating the PC board. Are you having a problem with your encoder?


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Yes, the frequency is changing in strange increments when I turn the knob.
I'm trying to decide if I want to send my R8B back to Drake of if I should
fix it myself. It doesn't seem to be a tough repair.

"starman" wrote in message
...
mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the
tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

The encoder wheel is located in a housing on the opposite end of the
shaft but it's all one (plastic) part. There are two ways to replace it.
You can buy it with/without the PC board that it's mounted on. The board
is actually a carry over from the original R8 which had an optical
encoder, so it's not really necessary for the A/B models. The encoder
without the PC board costs about $15. You can solder the three wires
coming from the encoder plug, to the pins on the encoder housing,
eliminating the PC board. Are you having a problem with your encoder?


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If you can solder well and know how to disassemble electronic equipment,
the encoder replacement is quite easy. It starts with removing all the
knobs, top/bottom covers, and the front (black) panel. Then you remove
the nut that holds the encoder shaft in the hole of the chassis. Unplug
the encoder wiring harness from the PC board and remove the encoder
assembly through the bottom of the chassis.

I suggest you order just the encoder without the PC board. It's about
half the price of the original assembly. As I said, the PC board is no
longer necessary. The new part # is 3260012. The price was $11.51 about
three years ago. You will have to remove the wiring harness from the old
encoder PC board and solder the three wires to the matching terminals on
the new encoder. Follow the circuit traces on the old encoder PC board
to determine where each wire goes on the new encoder terminals.

There was a thread on this group more than a year ago where we discussed
why this encoder fails. Myself and another contributor came to the
conclusion that the factory lubricant (grease) causes the encoder
contacts to become less conductive, possibly oxidized. I disassembled an
R8B encoder which was acting like yours, cleaned/degreased it and
relubed it with a synthetic grease. It's been working fine for several
years now. How old is your R8B?

mike0219116 wrote:

Yes, the frequency is changing in strange increments when I turn the knob.
I'm trying to decide if I want to send my R8B back to Drake of if I should
fix it myself. It doesn't seem to be a tough repair.

"starman" wrote in message
...
mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the
tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio separate
from the shaft?

The encoder wheel is located in a housing on the opposite end of the
shaft but it's all one (plastic) part. There are two ways to replace it.
You can buy it with/without the PC board that it's mounted on. The board
is actually a carry over from the original R8 which had an optical
encoder, so it's not really necessary for the A/B models. The encoder
without the PC board costs about $15. You can solder the three wires
coming from the encoder plug, to the pins on the encoder housing,
eliminating the PC board. Are you having a problem with your encoder?


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It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

"starman" wrote in message
...
If you can solder well and know how to disassemble electronic equipment,
the encoder replacement is quite easy. It starts with removing all the
knobs, top/bottom covers, and the front (black) panel. Then you remove
the nut that holds the encoder shaft in the hole of the chassis. Unplug
the encoder wiring harness from the PC board and remove the encoder
assembly through the bottom of the chassis.

I suggest you order just the encoder without the PC board. It's about
half the price of the original assembly. As I said, the PC board is no
longer necessary. The new part # is 3260012. The price was $11.51 about
three years ago. You will have to remove the wiring harness from the old
encoder PC board and solder the three wires to the matching terminals on
the new encoder. Follow the circuit traces on the old encoder PC board
to determine where each wire goes on the new encoder terminals.

There was a thread on this group more than a year ago where we discussed
why this encoder fails. Myself and another contributor came to the
conclusion that the factory lubricant (grease) causes the encoder
contacts to become less conductive, possibly oxidized. I disassembled an
R8B encoder which was acting like yours, cleaned/degreased it and
relubed it with a synthetic grease. It's been working fine for several
years now. How old is your R8B?

mike0219116 wrote:

Yes, the frequency is changing in strange increments when I turn the
knob.
I'm trying to decide if I want to send my R8B back to Drake of if I
should
fix it myself. It doesn't seem to be a tough repair.

"starman" wrote in message
...
mike0219116 wrote:

Does the encoder part for the Drake R8B include the shaft that the
tuning
knob sits on, or is the encoder simply a component in the radio
separate
from the shaft?

The encoder wheel is located in a housing on the opposite end of the
shaft but it's all one (plastic) part. There are two ways to replace
it.
You can buy it with/without the PC board that it's mounted on. The
board
is actually a carry over from the original R8 which had an optical
encoder, so it's not really necessary for the A/B models. The encoder
without the PC board costs about $15. You can solder the three wires
coming from the encoder plug, to the pins on the encoder housing,
eliminating the PC board. Are you having a problem with your encoder?


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mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm

dxAce wrote:

mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Sorry, that should be re-assemble...



Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:42:46 -0400,dxAce wrote:



mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Another stupid remark, stupid.

When you disassemble something you take it apart, stupid.
When you reassemble something you put the connectors back in the
proper spots, stupid.
You're so stupid you can't even keep track of your stupidity, stupid.

Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:49:25 -0400,dxAce wrote:



dxAce wrote:

mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Sorry, that should be re-assemble...

What would you do without my guidance, stupid.



Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm

redrum wrote:

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:49:25 -0400,dxAce wrote:



dxAce wrote:

mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Sorry, that should be re-assemble...

What would you do without my guidance, stupid.

A bit after the fact, are you not, 'tard.

When I need your *guidance*, I'll let you know.

Y'all get back to me when you understand something about shortwave, 'tard.

redrum wrote:

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:42:46 -0400,dxAce wrote:



mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Another stupid remark, stupid.

When you disassemble something you take it apart, stupid.
When you reassemble something you put the connectors back in the
proper spots, stupid.
You're so stupid you can't even keep track of your stupidity, stupid.

But you make it so convenient to keep track of yours!

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 17:18:37 -0400,dxAce wrote:



redrum wrote:

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:49:25 -0400,dxAce wrote:



dxAce wrote:

mike0219116 wrote:

It's only about a year old. I seem to have bad luck with encoders, as I had
to have the encoder on my Sat. 800 fixed by Drake a few months ago.

I looked through the archives of this group and found the thread you are
referring too. I might go ahead and order the part and give the repair a
shot myself. Thanks for the help.

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the
proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

Sorry, that should be re-assemble...

What would you do without my guidance, stupid.

A bit after the fact, are you not, 'tard.

You're oozing stupidity again, stupid.


When I need your *guidance*, I'll let you know.

You're too stupid to realize you need guidance so you've got no
choice, stupid.

Y'all get back to me when you understand something about shortwave, 'tard.

What's shortwave got to do with your stupidity, stupid?

Is shortwave related to your stupidity somehow, stupid?

To understand shortwave is to understand your stupidity, stupid?

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

There is very little disassembling to do. The only connector that has to
be removed from the PC board is the encoder wiring harness plug. It
doesn't involve anything with the display other than removing the clear
plastic window in front of the display, which comes off with the front
black panel. It might help to remove the screws which hold the front
chassis panel (under the front black panel) to the main chassis, so you
can pull the front chassis panel forward a little to gain better access
to the encoder from the bottom. There is enough slack in the other
wiring harnesses to do this without removing more wiring connectors.


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starman wrote:

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

There is very little disassembling to do. The only connector that has to
be removed from the PC board is the encoder wiring harness plug. It
doesn't involve anything with the display other than removing the clear
plastic window in front of the display, which comes off with the front
black panel. It might help to remove the screws which hold the front
chassis panel (under the front black panel) to the main chassis, so you
can pull the front chassis panel forward a little to gain better access
to the encoder from the bottom. There is enough slack in the other
wiring harnesses to do this without removing more wiring connectors.

Depends upon the amount of disassembly one wishes to do. But if one does start removing connectors, make sure they go back on
properly.

Bottom line: Just be very careful.

Steve
Holland, MI
Drake R7, R8 and R8B

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm

Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 07:21:16 -0400, dxAce wrote:



starman wrote:

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

There is very little disassembling to do. The only connector that has to
be removed from the PC board is the encoder wiring harness plug. It
doesn't involve anything with the display other than removing the clear
plastic window in front of the display, which comes off with the front
black panel. It might help to remove the screws which hold the front
chassis panel (under the front black panel) to the main chassis, so you
can pull the front chassis panel forward a little to gain better access
to the encoder from the bottom. There is enough slack in the other
wiring harnesses to do this without removing more wiring connectors.

Depends upon the amount of disassembly one wishes to do. But if one does start removing connectors, make sure they go back on
properly.

Bottom line: Just be very careful.

DxAss knows all about bottom lines:

He has to be very careful. If he is not careful then he will get SPNAKED again by ISERV as he did again just recently. LOLOL

Really? That's certainly news to me. Thanks for the update, 'tard.

Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 07:49:35 -0400, dxAce wrote:



Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 07:21:16 -0400, dxAce wrote:



starman wrote:

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

There is very little disassembling to do. The only connector that has to
be removed from the PC board is the encoder wiring harness plug. It
doesn't involve anything with the display other than removing the clear
plastic window in front of the display, which comes off with the front
black panel. It might help to remove the screws which hold the front
chassis panel (under the front black panel) to the main chassis, so you
can pull the front chassis panel forward a little to gain better access
to the encoder from the bottom. There is enough slack in the other
wiring harnesses to do this without removing more wiring connectors.

Depends upon the amount of disassembly one wishes to do. But if one does start removing connectors, make sure they go back on
properly.

Bottom line: Just be very careful.

DxAss knows all about bottom lines:

He has to be very careful. If he is not careful then he will get SPNAKED again by ISERV as he did again just recently. LOLOL

Really? That's certainly news to me. Thanks for the update, 'tard.


Everything is news to you Poodle Boy. You must wake up every day like it is your first with no memory of your past lies, email warnings from both
Supernews and ISERV, Nym shifting, spam and flood attacks, fabrications and derogatory language posted to this newsgroup. You are perhaps the biggest
abuser of this newsgroup that has ever posted here. You are nothing but a DX ASS Poodle Boy. Higher! Jump! THUD LOLOLOL

I've received no email warnings from either Supernews or Iserv. Can you substantiate your claim?



Lo L
| LoL
| o
| o LoL
| o /| _
| ___ / |_____ / _
| / o \ _/ _
\ ) )) Curmudgeon-Idiot! _
\____ _______ / \ _
\ | \ _
\|

Born to be trolled©

Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 08:56:28 -0400, dxAce wrote:



Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 07:49:35 -0400, dxAce wrote:



Curmudgeon wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 07:21:16 -0400, dxAce wrote:



starman wrote:

When you dis-assemble the radio make sure you get the connectors back in the proper spots, and be very careful with the display.

There is very little disassembling to do. The only connector that has to
be removed from the PC board is the encoder wiring harness plug. It
doesn't involve anything with the display other than removing the clear
plastic window in front of the display, which comes off with the front
black panel. It might help to remove the screws which hold the front
chassis panel (under the front black panel) to the main chassis, so you
can pull the front chassis panel forward a little to gain better access
to the encoder from the bottom. There is enough slack in the other
wiring harnesses to do this without removing more wiring connectors.

Depends upon the amount of disassembly one wishes to do. But if one does start removing connectors, make sure they go back on
properly.

Bottom line: Just be very careful.

DxAss knows all about bottom lines:

He has to be very careful. If he is not careful then he will get SPNAKED again by ISERV as he did again just recently. LOLOL

Really? That's certainly news to me. Thanks for the update, 'tard.


Everything is news to you Poodle Boy. You must wake up every day like it is your first with no memory of your past lies, email warnings from both
Supernews and ISERV, Nym shifting, spam and flood attacks, fabrications and derogatory language posted to this newsgroup. You are perhaps the biggest
abuser of this newsgroup that has ever posted here. You are nothing but a DX ASS Poodle Boy. Higher! Jump! THUD LOLOLOL

I've received no email warnings from either Supernews or Iserv. Can you substantiate your claim?

It is substantiated to the world because you have stopped flooding the group with your abusive postings Poodle Boy!

But you cannot substatiate your claims, can you, 'tard?