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Pierre Vachon October 11th 04 11:58 PM

Antenna design
 
Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre



Al Patrick October 12th 04 12:35 AM

A google search of "dipole antenna" gave about 48k hits.

I think the following url will be of help:
http://www.angelfire.com/mb/amandx/dipole.html

The Alpha-Delta Sloper will give you very good wide band coverage. It
can be seen at http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/sw_ant/3377.html

=========

Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre



Diverd4777 October 12th 04 12:37 AM

Hi Pier

- Try getting a portable SWR & walking around your lot, putting it to a " Blank
" frequency and checking where you hear noise, and where you don't

You should also check to see swhere on your lot you pick up 20 - 70 meter
frequencies your interested in

Try this both in the daytime, and at night..
THEN
You'll be able to put an antenna in the ": Noise Free areas"

Dan / NYC ( Sangean 606A, Jwin M14, Icom R-75 )



In article , "Pierre Vachon"
writes:

Subject: Antenna design
From: "Pierre Vachon"
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 18:58:03 -0400

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre




Mark October 12th 04 09:08 AM

Pierre,

Unless you have a transformer nearby, the powerlines won't necessarily be
the cause of the hum you mention. They can certainly cause noise, when
something is loose or dirty. But not usually a hum.

Use a portable SW radio to track it down. Walk around with it to see if the
hum gets louder or softer.

Mark.


"Pierre Vachon" wrote in message
. ..
Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake

r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there

are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an

irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre





Jack Painter October 12th 04 07:56 PM


"Pierre Vachon" wrote
Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake

r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there

are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an

irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


The minimum height above ground is about 1 millimeter ;-) That's where
Hurricane Isabel dumped one of my long wires last fall. It took over a week
to clear debris away before I could get it back up in the tree it was pulled
out of. It still received quite well in the meantime, even laying on the
ground. Of course the higher the antenna, the better it receives. At an
angle of more than 45 degrees, there is very little effect on the direction
the sloping wire points. At an angle of more than about 75 degrees, you are
approaching a "vertical" which is known for it's higher background noise.
Not desirable in DX work.

You didn't say if you are going to use a Balun transformer at the antenna
and coax feedline to connect to the radio. *If* you do, then you can
certainly ground the shield of the coax at the balun (even ground the unused
side of the balun), and shield ground the coax again before it comes into
your home. That can certainly help reduce noise. If the coax shield is not
grounded, the home electrical ground can "feed" noise from the radio, out
the coax shield, and back into the coax center conductor at the antenna
connection. Shield grounding does prevent this from happening. It is also
required in order for any static or lightning protection device to work
properly, should you use those devices.

Good luck,

Jack



RHF October 13th 04 09:47 AM

= = = "Pierre Vachon" wrote in message
= = = ...

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


PV,

Your simplest 'design' would be a "Low Noise" Antenna in the
'form' of an Inverted "L" Antenna. Since you have Power Line at
the front of the Yard. Consider running your Coax Cable to the
Back-End of the Yard (Possibly a Corner?). Construct an Antenna
Support at this 'spot'. I like to us Top-Rail as a Free-Standing
Antenna Support. Next at this back-of-the-yard 'location' install
a Ground Rod. Then 'mount' a Matching Transformer on the Top
of the Ground Rod. (This is your Primary Grounding Point for
your Antenna and Ground System.) Connect the Antenna Wire Element
and Coax Cable to the Matching Transformer (Balun/MLB). Route/Run
the Antenna Wire Element 'up' to the Top of the Top Rail and
'out' toward the front yard. Near the front of the Yard find
or build a second Antenna Support. (Top Rail Again?)

Some people like "Exact Numbers". So since you mention the
70 Meter and 20 Meter Bands; consider 'cutting' your Inverted
"L" Antenna to be a Quarter Wave Length on Top-Horizontal-Arm
for your Lowest Band and a Quarter Wave Length on the
Bottom-Vertical-Leg or your Lowest Band.
* 80 Meter 1/4WL = 67 Feet Top-Horizontal-Arm
* 20 Meter 1/4WL = 18 Feet Bottom-Vertical-Leg
Total Length of the Antenna Wire Element = 85 Feet.

READ: Antennas - Five Things to Consider : Antenna, Balun,
Ground, Coax & Planning
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...a/message/1544

The SWL Versions of the Inverted "L" Antennas can be any size
because they are in-fact simply Random Wire Antennas that are
'designed' to Fit the available space.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...nna/message/54
Inverted "L' Antenna Reading List
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/374
'About' the Inverted "L" Antenna = http://tinyurl.com/5aw9a
'Sizing' the Inverted "L" Antenna = http://tinyurl.com/5cqf8
The 'Low Noise' Inverted "L" Antenna = http://tinyurl.com/5953c

About - TOP RAIL as a "Free Standing" Antenna Support
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/201
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...enna/message/3
..
..
REMEMBER: "The Shortwave Antenna is 55.5% of the . . .
Radio/Receiver and Antenna/Ground Reception Equation"
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/288
A Shortwave Antenna is "Equally" Important for Good Reception [.]
..
..
iane ~ RHF
..
Some Say: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/502
I BELIEVE: On A Clear Night...
You Can Hear Forever and beyond, The Beyond !
..
..

starman October 18th 04 07:38 AM

Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building a good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


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Michael Lawson October 18th 04 01:32 PM


"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the

20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what

materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a

Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground

it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at

the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and

there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an

irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the

shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building a

good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but
when I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random
wires of different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned
an 18 gauge wire hung more than a few feet above the
ground, but I'm just curious what sort of differences there
would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge wire in a similar
scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it without a load of
some sort.

--Mike L.




dxAce October 18th 04 01:36 PM



Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the

20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what

materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a

Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground

it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at

the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and

there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an

irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the

shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building a

good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but
when I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random
wires of different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned
an 18 gauge wire hung more than a few feet above the
ground, but I'm just curious what sort of differences there
would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge wire in a similar
scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it without a load of
some sort.


Don't worry about it. The gauge of the wire will have an extremly minimal
effect, and besides, there are so many other variables as well.

dxAce
Michigan
USA

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm


Telamon October 19th 04 04:00 AM

In article ,
"Michael Lawson" wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the
20 meter band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on
what materials to use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I
will hook it up to a Drake r8B radio. What is the minimum height
it has to be? Where to groundit?.

Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at
the outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long
and there are power lines at the front. I assume that they are
the source of an irritating hum on the receiver on certain
frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are thinking
of building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific band
or range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the
shortwave spectrum. See the following website for instructions on
building a good low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with
my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but when
I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random wires of
different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned an 18 gauge wire
hung more than a few feet above the ground, but I'm just curious what
sort of differences there would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge
wire in a similar scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it
without a load of some sort.


A decrease in the gauge number means an increase in the wire diameter.
If you increase the wire diameter the impedance goes down. If you place
the wire closer to the ground the impedance goes down.

The difference between a step in wire gauge is about 12 ohms.

A 16 gauge wire 5 to 15 feet off the ground ranges from 500 to 600
ohms.

--
Telamon
Ventura, California

starman October 19th 04 04:38 AM

Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the

20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what

materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a

Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground

it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at

the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long and

there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of an

irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre


A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the

shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building a

good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but
when I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random
wires of different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned
an 18 gauge wire hung more than a few feet above the
ground, but I'm just curious what sort of differences there
would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge wire in a similar
scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it without a load of
some sort.

--Mike L.


The size (gauge) of the wire is not important for a *reception* antenna.
It does matter for a transmitting antenna. The typical inverted-L has an
impedance of several hundred ohms for much of it's frequency range.
That's why a 9:1 (impedance) balun is often used. If the receiver has an
antenna input impedance of about 50-ohms, a 9:1 balun will match it to a
450-ohm antenna (9x50=450). The wire turns ratio for a 9:1 balun is
actually 3:1. My balun has a primary winding with 10-turns and a
secondary with 30-turns. I used #22 enameled wire on a 1/2" dia. type-43
ferrite core. I plan to make a new balun using a 'binocular' core. This
core shape makes the balun's impedance more consistent throughout it's
frequency range.


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Steve October 19th 04 02:54 PM

(RHF) wrote in message om...
= = = "Pierre Vachon" wrote in message
= = = ...

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?


A year or so ago I had to come up with a replacement for an ageing
vertical antenna for my amateur radio station...After researching, I
decided to put up a full wave loop cut for 80 meters..Im going to
quote some sentences from this article, which you should check out:

http://www.bloomington.in.us/~wh2t/loop.html

"To determine the approximate length in feet of a Full Wave Loop
antenna use the formula 1005/Freq in Mhz = length in feet. For 160
meters a full wave loop antenna resonant at 1.9 Mhz would be about 529
feet long.

For the 75 meter band a full wave loop antenna resonant at 3.85 would
be about 261 feet long. A full wave for 3.9 Mhz = 257 Feet 8 inches. "

I happened to design mine for the 75/80 meter band.

"This type of antenna doesn't depend on an efficient ground system for
efficient performance. The impedance of a Full Wave Loop antenna is
theoretically in the vicinity of 100 ohms.

Connect one end of the wire to the coax center and Connect the coax
shield to the other end of the wire. Be sure and seal the end of the
coax against water. Form the wire in a loop and run it horizontally to
trees or whatever supports are handy. Be sure to insulate the wire
from the supports. "

Now, this antenna works great on receive and transmit on everything
from 75/80 meters and up (10-80) for transmit, the meager automatic
antenna tunner in me bloody kenwood ts450sat tunes it..amazing..and
the one band that sometimes gives me a bit of trouble is 15 meters,
where I have to use the external tuner..

And it hears really good everywhere my radio will go (general
coverage)...mine is only up an average of about 20 ft..

So, if you have the room I'd seriously consider a full wave loop..good
luck..

Steve
kb8viv

Michael Lawson October 19th 04 04:15 PM


"starman" wrote in message
...
Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in

the
20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what

materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up

to a
Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to

ground
it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded

at
the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long

and
there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of

an
irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre

A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are

thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific

band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the

shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building

a
good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html


Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but
when I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random
wires of different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned
an 18 gauge wire hung more than a few feet above the
ground, but I'm just curious what sort of differences there
would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge wire in a similar
scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it without a load of
some sort.

--Mike L.


The size (gauge) of the wire is not important for a *reception*

antenna.
It does matter for a transmitting antenna. The typical inverted-L

has an
impedance of several hundred ohms for much of it's frequency range.
That's why a 9:1 (impedance) balun is often used. If the receiver

has an
antenna input impedance of about 50-ohms, a 9:1 balun will match it

to a
450-ohm antenna (9x50=450). The wire turns ratio for a 9:1 balun is
actually 3:1. My balun has a primary winding with 10-turns and a
secondary with 30-turns. I used #22 enameled wire on a 1/2" dia.

type-43
ferrite core. I plan to make a new balun using a 'binocular' core.

This
core shape makes the balun's impedance more consistent throughout

it's
frequency range.


Is there much of a difference in the gauge of the enameled
wire wound around the core?? I followed John Bryant's
lead in his article and used 30 gauge wire, but I was thinking
that 26 would be easier to handle.

--Mike L.




dxAce October 19th 04 04:17 PM



Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message
...
Pierre Vachon wrote:

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in

the
20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what
materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up

to a
Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to

ground
it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded

at
the
outlet?

I am a little limited in space as my yard is only 75 feet long

and
there are
power lines at the front. I assume that they are the source of

an
irritating
hum on the receiver on certain frequencies.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Pierre

A real longwire antenna is much longer than what you are

thinking of
building. The antenna you describe is called a 'random wire' or
inverted-L. This kind of antenna is not tuned for a specific

band or
range of frequencies. In fact, it performs well throughout the
shortwave
spectrum. See the following website for instructions on building

a
good
low noise inverted-L antenna. I use this kind with my R8B.

http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html

Hmm. That brings up a question that I'd thought of earlier, but
when I was writing my posts, I forgot to put it in.

How do you figure out the impedance of various random
wires of different gauges?? John Doty's article mentioned
an 18 gauge wire hung more than a few feet above the
ground, but I'm just curious what sort of differences there
would be using, say, 14, 16 or 22 gauge wire in a similar
scenario. I can't imagine trying to test it without a load of
some sort.

--Mike L.


The size (gauge) of the wire is not important for a *reception*

antenna.
It does matter for a transmitting antenna. The typical inverted-L

has an
impedance of several hundred ohms for much of it's frequency range.
That's why a 9:1 (impedance) balun is often used. If the receiver

has an
antenna input impedance of about 50-ohms, a 9:1 balun will match it

to a
450-ohm antenna (9x50=450). The wire turns ratio for a 9:1 balun is
actually 3:1. My balun has a primary winding with 10-turns and a
secondary with 30-turns. I used #22 enameled wire on a 1/2" dia.

type-43
ferrite core. I plan to make a new balun using a 'binocular' core.

This
core shape makes the balun's impedance more consistent throughout

it's
frequency range.


Is there much of a difference in the gauge of the enameled
wire wound around the core?? I followed John Bryant's
lead in his article and used 30 gauge wire, but I was thinking
that 26 would be easier to handle.


26 will work just fine. I've typically used 22.

dxAce
Michigan
USA

http://www.iserv.net/~n8kdv/dxpage.htm




RHF October 19th 04 08:48 PM

= = = (Steve) wrote in message
= = = . com...
(RHF) wrote in message om...
= = = "Pierre Vachon" wrote in message
= = = ...

Hi there, I am trying to build a longwire antenna for use in the 20 meter
band to 70 meter band area. I was looking for advice on what materials to
use for the antenna and the lead in lines. I will hook it up to a Drake r8B
radio. What is the minimum height it has to be? Where to ground it?.
Actually, does it have to be grounded if the radio is grounded at the
outlet?


A year or so ago I had to come up with a replacement for an ageing
vertical antenna for my amateur radio station...After researching, I
decided to put up a full wave loop cut for 80 meters..Im going to
quote some sentences from this article, which you should check out:

http://www.bloomington.in.us/~wh2t/loop.html

"To determine the approximate length in feet of a Full Wave Loop
antenna use the formula 1005/Freq in Mhz = length in feet. For 160
meters a full wave loop antenna resonant at 1.9 Mhz would be about 529
feet long.

For the 75 meter band a full wave loop antenna resonant at 3.85 would
be about 261 feet long. A full wave for 3.9 Mhz = 257 Feet 8 inches. "

I happened to design mine for the 75/80 meter band.

"This type of antenna doesn't depend on an efficient ground system for
efficient performance. The impedance of a Full Wave Loop antenna is
theoretically in the vicinity of 100 ohms.

Connect one end of the wire to the coax center and Connect the coax
shield to the other end of the wire. Be sure and seal the end of the
coax against water. Form the wire in a loop and run it horizontally to
trees or whatever supports are handy. Be sure to insulate the wire
from the supports. "

Now, this antenna works great on receive and transmit on everything
from 75/80 meters and up (10-80) for transmit, the meager automatic
antenna tunner in me bloody kenwood ts450sat tunes it..amazing..and
the one band that sometimes gives me a bit of trouble is 15 meters,
where I have to use the external tuner..

And it hears really good everywhere my radio will go (general
coverage)...mine is only up an average of about 20 ft..

So, if you have the room I'd seriously consider a full wave loop..good
luck..

Steve
kb8viv


STEVE,

Check-Out the "SkyWire Loop Antennas" eGroup on YAHOO !
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SkyWires/

Dr. Ace [WH2T] is one of the Moderators of the eGroup.
http://www.bloomington.in.us/~wh2t/loop.html

A Critical requirement for a SkyWire Loop Antenna is "LAND" & Space.

SkyWire Loop Antenna Size per Square Side:
160 Meter Band = 529 Feet Loop = 132 Feet Side = "SPACE"
80 Meter Band = 268 Feet Loop = 67 Feet Side = 'Space'
40 Meter Band = 141 Feet Loop = 35 Feet Side = space
20 Meter Band = 71 Feet Loop = 18 Feet Side
10 Meter Band = 35 Feet Loop = 9 Feet Side

give me land lots of land to build antennas on, don't CCR me in ~ RHF
..

Desmoface October 19th 04 11:16 PM

Hi RHF, I used to subscribe to it but I tend to change hobbies in the Summer
LOL..Anyway, last year I remember we were trying to have a net (so to speak) on
hf and it never really materialized. When summer hit I was back into my other
hobby of motorcycles..I should resubscribe though, if I remember correctly
there was a pretty good group there..Thanks again for the invite..

Steve
kb8viv

starman October 21st 04 09:59 AM

Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message

The size (gauge) of the wire is not important for a *reception*

antenna.
It does matter for a transmitting antenna. The typical inverted-L

has an
impedance of several hundred ohms for much of it's frequency range.
That's why a 9:1 (impedance) balun is often used. If the receiver

has an
antenna input impedance of about 50-ohms, a 9:1 balun will match it

to a
450-ohm antenna (9x50=450). The wire turns ratio for a 9:1 balun is
actually 3:1. My balun has a primary winding with 10-turns and a
secondary with 30-turns. I used #22 enameled wire on a 1/2" dia.

type-43
ferrite core. I plan to make a new balun using a 'binocular' core.

This
core shape makes the balun's impedance more consistent throughout

it's
frequency range.


Is there much of a difference in the gauge of the enameled
wire wound around the core?? I followed John Bryant's
lead in his article and used 30 gauge wire, but I was thinking
that 26 would be easier to handle.

--Mike L.


Use whatever size wire works best on the ferrite core you have.


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RHF October 21st 04 11:40 PM

= = = starman wrote in message
= = = ...
Michael Lawson wrote:

"starman" wrote in message

The size (gauge) of the wire is not important for a *reception*

antenna.
It does matter for a transmitting antenna. The typical inverted-L

has an
impedance of several hundred ohms for much of it's frequency range.
That's why a 9:1 (impedance) balun is often used. If the receiver

has an
antenna input impedance of about 50-ohms, a 9:1 balun will match it

to a
450-ohm antenna (9x50=450). The wire turns ratio for a 9:1 balun is
actually 3:1. My balun has a primary winding with 10-turns and a
secondary with 30-turns. I used #22 enameled wire on a 1/2" dia.

type-43
ferrite core. I plan to make a new balun using a 'binocular' core.

This
core shape makes the balun's impedance more consistent throughout

it's
frequency range.


Is there much of a difference in the gauge of the enameled
wire wound around the core?? I followed John Bryant's
lead in his article and used 30 gauge wire, but I was thinking
that 26 would be easier to handle.

--Mike L.


Use whatever size wire works best on the ferrite core you have.


STARMAN,

Isn't Type 43 the recommended as a Balun "Core Material" ?

Why isn't Type 61 also a 'suggested' Balun Core Material ?

NOTE: Matching Transformer = Balun = UnUn

True Story: A while back I bought a Grab Bag of Feritte Cores on eBay.
Some of them had a #20 Enameled Wire wrapped on them with 36 Turns.
They were about 1" OD x 1/2" ID x 1/2" H. So I thought, why not
try them as an Matching Transformer on an 'old' Telephone Two Wire
Service Line (pre-1950s) that runs overhead about 75 Ft from
the Power Pole to the House. Being lazy I simply wrapped a Twelve
Turn (12T) Secondary and wired it up with a #22 Magnet Wire from a
RadioShack 'three pack' Catalog # 278-1345 ($5). Well 36:12 Turns
worked good for AM/MW and up to 7 MHz but the Signal Levels fell
off after 7 MHz. So then I tried Reducing the Primary to 30
Turns and the Secondary to 10 Turns. Again the AM/MW Band was
good and the Shortwave coverage went up to 23 MHz. Not being
one to settle for 'good enough'; I then tried Reducing the Primary
to 24 Turns and the Secondary to 8 Turns. Well the AM/MW Reception
went down and the Shortwave Bands reception picked up to the CB Band.
So it seems that the 'majic' 30 Turns and 10 Turns worked the best
for my needs using this ?Core?.

TESTING: The receiver for this Test was an Icom IC-R75.
http://www.icomamerica.com/products/receivers/r75/
My Matching Transformer "Test Standard" was an ICE 180A.
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Produc...age%20Matching
My Test Measurement were with "My Ears" and 'My Eyes' (S-Meter).
The 'old' Telephone Service Line was a Two Wire (Copper Clad
Steel?) Cable. One Wire was used for the ICE 180A and the
other Wire was used for the ?Core? Matching Transformer.

FWIW: Reading your statement about the Binocular Cores, I
have just ordered some from Universal-Radio.Com to Test.
It is my understanding that One Turn 'counts' for Two when
You use a Binocular Core. Now Is That True ?

Also, I have a SWL 10:1 Balun that is made by "RF Junkie"
and will be testing it soon using the same test-set-up.
* Two Shortwave Listener (SWL) 10:1 Baluns for Random Wire Antennas
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...a/message/1523


iane ~ RHF
..
..

bpnjensen October 22nd 04 05:04 PM

(RHF) wrote in message m...

Good information snipped

STARMAN,

Isn't Type 43 the recommended as a Balun "Core Material" ?

Why isn't Type 61 also a 'suggested' Balun Core Material ?

NOTE: Matching Transformer = Balun = UnUn

True Story: A while back I bought a Grab Bag of Feritte Cores on eBay.
Some of them had a #20 Enameled Wire wrapped on them with 36 Turns.
They were about 1" OD x 1/2" ID x 1/2" H. So I thought, why not
try them as an Matching Transformer on an 'old' Telephone Two Wire
Service Line (pre-1950s) that runs overhead about 75 Ft from
the Power Pole to the House. Being lazy I simply wrapped a Twelve
Turn (12T) Secondary and wired it up with a #22 Magnet Wire from a
RadioShack 'three pack' Catalog # 278-1345 ($5). Well 36:12 Turns
worked good for AM/MW and up to 7 MHz but the Signal Levels fell
off after 7 MHz. So then I tried Reducing the Primary to 30
Turns and the Secondary to 10 Turns. Again the AM/MW Band was
good and the Shortwave coverage went up to 23 MHz. Not being
one to settle for 'good enough'; I then tried Reducing the Primary
to 24 Turns and the Secondary to 8 Turns. Well the AM/MW Reception
went down and the Shortwave Bands reception picked up to the CB Band.
So it seems that the 'majic' 30 Turns and 10 Turns worked the best
for my needs using this ?Core?.


RHF - it sounds like you did not know what the material for this core
was (43 vs. 61 or other) - right? Is it possible that the frequency
range is more dependent on the number of turns (inductance?) than the
actual material? This is not a trick question...

TESTING: The receiver for this Test was an Icom IC-R75.
http://www.icomamerica.com/products/receivers/r75/
My Matching Transformer "Test Standard" was an ICE 180A.
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Produc...age%20Matching
My Test Measurement were with "My Ears" and 'My Eyes' (S-Meter).
The 'old' Telephone Service Line was a Two Wire (Copper Clad
Steel?) Cable. One Wire was used for the ICE 180A and the
other Wire was used for the ?Core? Matching Transformer.


Question - what is the advantage of using the ICE 180A (1.5-30 MHz)
over the 180C (0.1 - 30 MHz)? Is the 180A inherently better suited to
SW because it does not need to be so broadbanded? Or will the other
work as well, PLUS get you MW? Do these use binocular cores? Or just
one of them?

FWIW: Reading your statement about the Binocular Cores, I
have just ordered some from Universal-Radio.Com to Test.
It is my understanding that One Turn 'counts' for Two when
You use a Binocular Core. Now Is That True ?


I would love to know this also, and also see a GOOD diagram of how to
wire a binocular core.

Also, I have a SWL 10:1 Balun that is made by "RF Junkie"
and will be testing it soon using the same test-set-up.
* Two Shortwave Listener (SWL) 10:1 Baluns for Random Wire Antennas
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...a/message/1523


It is great to see all these fine antenna posts - becoming familiar
with the experience of others, and ultimately (hopefully) contributing
something that may help others, is the best and highest use of this
medium, I think (oh, yeah, that and name-calling over politics ;-)

Bruce Jensen

Telamon October 23rd 04 06:47 AM

In article ,
(bpnjensen) wrote:

(RHF) wrote in message
m...

Good information snipped

STARMAN,

Isn't Type 43 the recommended as a Balun "Core Material" ?

Why isn't Type 61 also a 'suggested' Balun Core Material ?

NOTE: Matching Transformer = Balun = UnUn

True Story: A while back I bought a Grab Bag of Feritte Cores on
eBay. Some of them had a #20 Enameled Wire wrapped on them with 36
Turns. They were about 1" OD x 1/2" ID x 1/2" H. So I thought, why
not try them as an Matching Transformer on an 'old' Telephone Two
Wire Service Line (pre-1950s) that runs overhead about 75 Ft from
the Power Pole to the House. Being lazy I simply wrapped a Twelve
Turn (12T) Secondary and wired it up with a #22 Magnet Wire from a
RadioShack 'three pack' Catalog # 278-1345 ($5). Well 36:12 Turns
worked good for AM/MW and up to 7 MHz but the Signal Levels fell
off after 7 MHz. So then I tried Reducing the Primary to 30 Turns
and the Secondary to 10 Turns. Again the AM/MW Band was good and
the Shortwave coverage went up to 23 MHz. Not being one to settle
for 'good enough'; I then tried Reducing the Primary to 24 Turns
and the Secondary to 8 Turns. Well the AM/MW Reception went down
and the Shortwave Bands reception picked up to the CB Band. So it
seems that the 'majic' 30 Turns and 10 Turns worked the best for my
needs using this ?Core?.


RHF - it sounds like you did not know what the material for this core
was (43 vs. 61 or other) - right? Is it possible that the frequency
range is more dependent on the number of turns (inductance?) than the
actual material? This is not a trick question...


Well, actually in a way it is a trick question. Inductors and
transformers are complex devices. Small differences in construction
will have a large effect on performance. How you connect it will change
its performance. Where (in frequency) you make measurement will affect
the results. I mention this because you want it to work from .5 MHz to
30 MHz.

--
Telamon
Ventura, California

starman October 23rd 04 06:48 AM

Isn't Type 43 the recommended as a Balun "Core Material" ?

Type 43 is optimal for the shortwave (HF) spectrum.

Why isn't Type 61 also a 'suggested' Balun Core Material ?


The 'Q' of type-61 makes it too selective for HF. You want the balun to
be broadband not peaked for a particular frequency.

Is it possible that the frequency
range is more dependent on the number of turns (inductance?) than the
actual material? This is not a trick question...


The ferrite composition plays a large role in determining the effective
frequency range of the coil. In the case of a balun/unun you're not
trying to make a tuned coil. You want it to be efficient over the
desired frequency range. See the following webpage for ferrite core
info':

http://www.universal-radio.com/catal.../amidonT1.html

FWIW: Reading your statement about the Binocular Cores, I
have just ordered some from Universal-Radio.Com to Test.
It is my understanding that One Turn 'counts' for Two when
You use a Binocular Core. Now Is That True ?


I would love to know this also, and also see a GOOD diagram of how to
wire a binocular core.


Here's how to wind ferrite cores, including binocular ones:

http://www.oselectronics.com/downloa...ansformers.pdf


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Eric F. Richards October 24th 04 05:43 AM

(bpnjensen) wrote:

Question - what is the advantage of using the ICE 180A (1.5-30 MHz)
over the 180C (0.1 - 30 MHz)? Is the 180A inherently better suited to
SW because it does not need to be so broadbanded? Or will the other
work as well, PLUS get you MW? Do these use binocular cores? Or just
one of them?


Both use binocular cores -- I have a 180 and a 182. The only visible
difference is that the DC blocking capaccitor. The binocular may be
different.

I wondered about the difference as well, and the only thing I could
think of is that the smaller value of the blocking capacitor on the
180A helps attenuate MW and LW, which certain radios' front ends can't
handle.

--
Eric F. Richards,

"Making me root for a sanctimonious statist blowhard like Kerry isn't
the worst thing Bush has done to the country. But it's the offense
that I take most personally."
--
http://www.reason.com/links/links071304.shtml

RHF October 26th 04 09:18 AM

= = = (bpnjensen) wrote in message
= = = . com...
(RHF) wrote in message m...

Good information snipped

STARMAN,

Isn't Type 43 the recommended as a Balun "Core Material" ?

Why isn't Type 61 also a 'suggested' Balun Core Material ?

NOTE: Matching Transformer = Balun = UnUn

True Story: A while back I bought a Grab Bag of Feritte Cores on eBay.
Some of them had a #20 Enameled Wire wrapped on them with 36 Turns.
They were about 1" OD x 1/2" ID x 1/2" H. So I thought, why not
try them as an Matching Transformer on an 'old' Telephone Two Wire
Service Line (pre-1950s) that runs overhead about 75 Ft from
the Power Pole to the House. Being lazy I simply wrapped a Twelve
Turn (12T) Secondary and wired it up with a #22 Magnet Wire from a
RadioShack 'three pack' Catalog # 278-1345 ($5). Well 36:12 Turns
worked good for AM/MW and up to 7 MHz but the Signal Levels fell
off after 7 MHz. So then I tried Reducing the Primary to 30
Turns and the Secondary to 10 Turns. Again the AM/MW Band was
good and the Shortwave coverage went up to 23 MHz. Not being
one to settle for 'good enough'; I then tried Reducing the Primary
to 24 Turns and the Secondary to 8 Turns. Well the AM/MW Reception
went down and the Shortwave Bands reception picked up to the CB Band.
So it seems that the 'majic' 30 Turns and 10 Turns worked the best
for my needs using this ?Core?.


RHF - it sounds like you did not know what the material for this core
was (43 vs. 61 or other) - right? Is it possible that the frequency
range is more dependent on the number of turns (inductance?) than the
actual material? This is not a trick question...


BJ,

YES - I DID NOT KNOW - I think that sometimes you just get 'lucky' :o)

READ: Assessing unknown Ferrite Toroids
http://www.alan.melia.btinternet.co.uk/toroids.htm

As for Me the whole "ART" and 'science' {mystery] of SWL Antennas is:
* Read & Think
* Build & Do
* Surprise & Enjoy

Afer all, I am simply a SWL and Not On A Power Trip ~ RHF
{ No Transmitter Required }
..
..
TESTING: The receiver for this Test was an Icom IC-R75.
http://www.icomamerica.com/products/receivers/r75/
My Matching Transformer "Test Standard" was an ICE 180A.
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Produc...age%20Matching
My Test Measurement were with "My Ears" and 'My Eyes' (S-Meter).
The 'old' Telephone Service Line was a Two Wire (Copper Clad
Steel?) Cable. One Wire was used for the ICE 180A and the
other Wire was used for the ?Core? Matching Transformer.


Question - what is the advantage of using the ICE 180A (1.5-30 MHz)
over the 180C (0.1 - 30 MHz)? Is the 180A inherently better suited to
SW because it does not need to be so broadbanded? Or will the other
work as well, PLUS get you MW? Do these use binocular cores? Or just
one of them?



I bought the ICE 180A and it seems to work very well down through
the AM/MW Broadcast Band (500 kHz) although it's listed Coverage
is 1.5 MHz to 30 MHz. The ICE 182A Beverage Matching (Isolation)
Unit has a listed Coverage of 100 kHz to 30 MHz.
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Produc...age%20Matching

As to the Debate about what makes an ICE 180A and an ICE 182A 'different':

"IDK" - I DON'T KNOW ! {Did 'mister-know-it-all' Really Say "IDK" :o}
..
..
FWIW: Reading your statement about the Binocular Cores, I
have just ordered some from Universal-Radio.Com to Test.
It is my understanding that One Turn 'counts' for Two when
You use a Binocular Core. Now Is That True ?


I would love to know this also, and also see a GOOD diagram
of how to wire a binocular core.


Concerning the 'topic' of Binocular Core Matching Transformers
her are a several Links/URLs to take-a-look at:
* Multi-Aperture Cores
http://partsandkits.com/binocular.html
http://www.cwsbytemark.com/CatalogSh...Files/2_34.pdf
* Wide Band RF Transformers
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com...ansformers.htm
* * What are Toroids ?
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/basics/toroids.htm
* RF Transformer - Mini-Circuits
http://rust.lbl.gov/~gtp/DOM/dataShe.../tranfrmr.html
* Inductors: Binocular Balun Cores - Surplus Sales
http://www.surplussales.com/FerMisc/FerMisc-5.html
* Construction and Use of Broad Band Transformers - Figuer #2
http://www.oselectronics.com/downloa...ansformers.pdf
* Amidon #43 & #61 Material Two-Hole or Binocular Cores
http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_woundbeads.htm
* Impedance Matching Transformers for Receiving Antennas
at Medium and Lower Shortwave Frequencies
Bill Bowers - John Bryant - Nick Hall-Patch [VE7DXR]
http://www.dxing.info/equipment/impe...ing_bryant.doc
http://www.dxing.info/equipment/impe...mer_bryant.doc
* Baluns - Kits & Custom - The WireMan
http://thewireman.com/baluns.html
* Baluns in Theory - RadioWorks
http://radioworks.com/nbalun.html
* Toroidal Balun Kits, Toroids and Enamelled Wire Packs - OZ-Gear
http://www.ozgear.com.au/balun/ToroidalBalunKits.htm
* Balun and Transformer Core Selection - Binocular Core Image
http://www.w8ji.com/core_selection.htm
..
..
Also, I have a SWL 10:1 Balun that is made by "RF Junkie"
and will be testing it soon using the same test-set-up.
* Two Shortwave Listener (SWL) 10:1 Baluns for Random Wire Antennas
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...a/message/1523


It is great to see all these fine antenna posts - becoming familiar
with the experience of others, and ultimately (hopefully) contributing
something that may help others, is the best and highest use of this
medium, I think (oh, yeah, that and name-calling over politics ;-)

Bruce Jensen



iane ~ RHF
..
..


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