Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal '3000' bulb replacements?
 

Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!

PowerHouse Communications wrote:
Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!





This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube. Screwed the new piece into the socket and it's brighter
and whiter than the original, with no heat, and lower draw. And
with 100,000 hour life of the LED, there will be no replacement
necessary in my lifetime.


Obviously, this is not the best option for meticulous
restorations, but for daily users, it's a practical improvement.

"D Peter Maus" wrote

This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube.

I'm not familiar with the 3000. But, if you need to disperse the light from
an LED you can "frost" the plastic lens by lightly scuffing it with a piece
of fine sandpaper.

Panopticon wrote:
"D Peter Maus" wrote

This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube.


I'm not familiar with the 3000. But, if you need to disperse the light from
an LED you can "frost" the plastic lens by lightly scuffing it with a piece
of fine sandpaper.




Which works well in most cases. Not so well in this case, because
of the narrow angle of the emitted beam and the fact that the LED
is at right angles to and behind the surface to be illuminated. Even
after frosting, most of the emission is still wasted on the left
inside of the radio.

Now, for an LED that radiates head on, like a pilot, or in the
case of my Marantz 2218 stereo beacon, yeah, buffing the LED with
light sandpaper or steel wool does a nice job.

Mr.Maus,you will probally croak before that LED bulb in your Zenith 3000
wears out.
cuhulin

D Peter Maus wrote:

PowerHouse Communications wrote:
Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!



This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube. Screwed the new piece into the socket and it's brighter
and whiter than the original, with no heat, and lower draw. And
with 100,000 hour life of the LED, there will be no replacement
necessary in my lifetime.

Obviously, this is not the best option for meticulous
restorations, but for daily users, it's a practical improvement.


Please explain how you light a white LED when you only have a single
1.5 Volt cell and white LEDs take 3 volts or more?
http://www.edn.com/index.asp?layout=...cleID=CA339716

--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

PowerHouse Communications wrote:

Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!



This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube. Screwed the new piece into the socket and it's brighter
and whiter than the original, with no heat, and lower draw. And
with 100,000 hour life of the LED, there will be no replacement
necessary in my lifetime.

Obviously, this is not the best option for meticulous
restorations, but for daily users, it's a practical improvement.



Please explain how you light a white LED when you only have a single
1.5 Volt cell and white LEDs take 3 volts or more?
http://www.edn.com/index.asp?layout=...cleID=CA339716



That's a good question. I didn't really look into it any further
than pulling an LED out of the parts box, putting it across a single
cell, and seeing what happened. It lit, so I used it.


Someone last year asked for part numbers. I don't have any. I
bought a box of LED's at a hamfest for a buck. Most of them light
with a single cell.

As far as the 3v lower limit goes...I've noticed Digi-Key's LED's
require at least 3v. Most of the LED's out today will light at much
less than that. In fact, even Parts Express lists their superbright
whites at 1.7-2.2 forward volts, with significant variation within
and outside those numbers.

I own a flashlight (torch,to y'all limeys) I bought at a wal mart store
about six months ago.It has a LED bulb in the front of it and a skinny
Flourescent bulb/light on the back top side of it.I paid about ten or
eleven dollars for it.It puts out a lot of light on the Flourescent
side,the LED light Sucks! in my opinion.
cuhulin

D Peter Maus wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

PowerHouse Communications wrote:

Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!



This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube. Screwed the new piece into the socket and it's brighter
and whiter than the original, with no heat, and lower draw. And
with 100,000 hour life of the LED, there will be no replacement
necessary in my lifetime.

Obviously, this is not the best option for meticulous
restorations, but for daily users, it's a practical improvement.



Please explain how you light a white LED when you only have a single
1.5 Volt cell and white LEDs take 3 volts or more?
http://www.edn.com/index.asp?layout=...cleID=CA339716


That's a good question. I didn't really look into it any further
than pulling an LED out of the parts box, putting it across a single
cell, and seeing what happened. It lit, so I used it.

Someone last year asked for part numbers. I don't have any. I
bought a box of LED's at a hamfest for a buck. Most of them light
with a single cell.

As far as the 3v lower limit goes...I've noticed Digi-Key's LED's
require at least 3v. Most of the LED's out today will light at much
less than that. In fact, even Parts Express lists their superbright
whites at 1.7-2.2 forward volts, with significant variation within
and outside those numbers.


Are yoiu sure you didn't use a pale yellow LED? They will light at a
lower voltage.

--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

D Peter Maus wrote:


PowerHouse Communications wrote:


Zenith Trans-Oceanic Royal "3000"

I'm looking for replacement bulbs for the band scale illumination on the
above listed shortwave receiver. The bulb is an older screw-in type that is
powered by a single "D"-Cell battery. I've looked high and low for a
single-cell (1.5V) bulb, but have come up empty handed. The only thing I
have found in the 1.5V category is the "spot" style bulb, which would be
useless in this application.

Anybody else have one of these units that has found replacement bulbs?
Perhaps you made a slight modification to the unit and somehow arranged
something using LEDs? Any advice or thoughts on the matter would be greatly
appreciated.

Details: The bulbs looks like the one pictured he
http://www.topbulb.com/images/bulbs/50.jpg
According to the sight is a "G"-type bulb, although another sight identified
it as an "E"-type? Bulb is 1.5V (or thereabouts), and has "123" printed on
the side, and "*** USA ***" is stamped into the side of the bulb base.

Thanks!



This doesn't directly answer your question, but for my 3000-1, I
pulled a white LED out of my stray parts box and soldered it into
the base of the burned out bulb. I put a thin white paper cover
around the element to disperse bright but narrow beam thoughout
scale tube. Screwed the new piece into the socket and it's brighter
and whiter than the original, with no heat, and lower draw. And
with 100,000 hour life of the LED, there will be no replacement
necessary in my lifetime.

Obviously, this is not the best option for meticulous
restorations, but for daily users, it's a practical improvement.



Please explain how you light a white LED when you only have a single
1.5 Volt cell and white LEDs take 3 volts or more?
http://www.edn.com/index.asp?layout=...cleID=CA339716


That's a good question. I didn't really look into it any further
than pulling an LED out of the parts box, putting it across a single
cell, and seeing what happened. It lit, so I used it.

Someone last year asked for part numbers. I don't have any. I
bought a box of LED's at a hamfest for a buck. Most of them light
with a single cell.

As far as the 3v lower limit goes...I've noticed Digi-Key's LED's
require at least 3v. Most of the LED's out today will light at much
less than that. In fact, even Parts Express lists their superbright
whites at 1.7-2.2 forward volts, with significant variation within
and outside those numbers.



Are yoiu sure you didn't use a pale yellow LED? They will light at a
lower voltage.




Quite sure. I also found one at RS this weekend that is rated at
1.3 V.

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

Quite sure. I also found one at RS this weekend that is rated at
1.3 V.


I'd like to know who makes it and what the chemistry is. Standard
white LEDs are blue and use a phosphor to convert it to white light. I
have data sheets on over 100 different types of white LEDs and none are
under 3 volts.




Clearly you don't believe me. So the back and forth isn't getting
either of us anywhere.

Look up LED's at Parts Express. You'll find all of them are 2.2
and under.

Go to RS and look in the drawers. But if you think you're going
to get anyone there to give you a manufacturer's name, you're going
to be disappointed.

Likewise the grab boxes at a hamfest.

I have no doubt that your data supports your position. The only
logical conclusion to be drawn is that either your data is
incomplete, or the LED's sold by Parts Express, RS, or the hamfest
vendor don't exist.

That would make my 3000-1 T/O something of an oddity, and I
supposed I should be making a posting on eBay right away. Certainly
would go a long way toward that estate in the Yukon I've been
dreaming about.

Have a good weekend, Michael.


p

D Peter Maus wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

Quite sure. I also found one at RS this weekend that is rated at
1.3 V.


I'd like to know who makes it and what the chemistry is. Standard
white LEDs are blue and use a phosphor to convert it to white light. I
have data sheets on over 100 different types of white LEDs and none are
under 3 volts.


Clearly you don't believe me. So the back and forth isn't getting
either of us anywhere.

Look up LED's at Parts Express. You'll find all of them are 2.2
and under.


Parts Express is not a fountain of knowledge and they give the same
operating specs for all colors of LEDs which is typical of a surplus
store.

Go to RS and look in the drawers. But if you think you're going
to get anyone there to give you a manufacturer's name, you're going
to be disappointed.


www.radioshack.com lists one white LED, stock number 276-320 with
these specs:

Typical MCD is 1100. Size is T-1- 3/4 or 5mm. Clear lens color. 20mA
(max). Typical Voltage is 3.6V. Comes as package of 1.

Do you have a different stock number I can request the specs for?




Likewise the grab boxes at a hamfest.

I have no doubt that your data supports your position. The only
logical conclusion to be drawn is that either your data is
incomplete, or the LED's sold by Parts Express, RS, or the hamfest
vendor don't exist.


There is a lot of discusion about white LEDS and driver circuits for
1.5 volt operation on news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic I'm sure
they would love to find LEDs that don't require drivers.


That would make my 3000-1 T/O something of an oddity, and I
supposed I should be making a posting on eBay right away. Certainly
would go a long way toward that estate in the Yukon I've been
dreaming about.

Have a good weekend, Michael.

p

Maybe, if hurricane Dennis is gone in time. It doesn't look likely.
--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
D Peter Maus wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

D Peter Maus wrote:


Quite sure. I also found one at RS this weekend that is rated at
1.3 V.


I'd like to know who makes it and what the chemistry is. Standard
white LEDs are blue and use a phosphor to convert it to white light. I
have data sheets on over 100 different types of white LEDs and none are
under 3 volts.


Clearly you don't believe me. So the back and forth isn't getting
either of us anywhere.

Look up LED's at Parts Express. You'll find all of them are 2.2
and under.



Parts Express is not a fountain of knowledge and they give the same
operating specs for all colors of LEDs which is typical of a surplus
store.


Go to RS and look in the drawers. But if you think you're going
to get anyone there to give you a manufacturer's name, you're going
to be disappointed.



www.radioshack.com lists one white LED, stock number 276-320 with
these specs:

Typical MCD is 1100. Size is T-1- 3/4 or 5mm. Clear lens color. 20mA
(max). Typical Voltage is 3.6V. Comes as package of 1.

Do you have a different stock number I can request the specs for?





Sure, I'll get on that. It's about a 50 drive from where I am.
For a stock number. Not a problem.


Like I said, you clearly don't believe me. And typical of
internet discussions, now you've chosen to disbelieve outside
information which has been made available. Not surprising. And now,
asking now for MORE information, also suitable for dismissal. As I
said, the back and forth becomes pointless.

My original post still stands. In the conflict between your data
and my experience, the radio breaks the tie with a clear voice.

The only thing I can suggest, is start hitting some hamfests, and
try it for yourself.



And people wonder why some members stop posting here.

Peter Maus wrote:

Sure, I'll get on that. It's about a 50 drive from where I am.
For a stock number. Not a problem.


I didn't ask you to drive anywhere, I simply asked if you had the
part number of what you were talking about.

Like I said, you clearly don't believe me. And typical of
internet discussions, now you've chosen to disbelieve outside
information which has been made available. Not surprising. And now,
asking now for MORE information, also suitable for dismissal. As I
said, the back and forth becomes pointless.


You are absolutely right. Since you either can't, or won't back up
your position there is no further reason for me to listen to you.

My original post still stands. In the conflict between your data
and my experience, the radio breaks the tie with a clear voice.


Whatever. All I asked was questions to help me track down a source
of a part that works at less than half the standard voltage for a
typical white LED and defies the manufacture's data from every source
I've checked..

The only thing I can suggest, is start hitting some hamfests, and
try it for yourself.


I went to the only hamfest within my driving range last fall and I
didn't see anyone selling any components, let alone LEDs.

And people wonder why some members stop posting here.


--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

You are absolutely right. Since you either can't, or won't back up
your position there is no further reason for me to listen to you.


Ah, yes. The song of the armchair quarterback. The results
are unpalatable, so you dismiss any information that supports them,
and then make accusations of obstruction.

God, I love the internet.


My original post still stands. In the conflict between your data
and my experience, the radio breaks the tie with a clear voice.



All I asked was questions to help me track down a source
of a part that works at less than half the standard voltage for a
typical white LED and defies the manufacture's data from every source
I've checked..


And I gave you what information I had. The one source I gave
you, you dismissed as being unreliable. Ok, that's fine. We're not
debating a doctoral thesis, here. This is not groundbreaking
research. In fact, on the map of things that might be debated in the
group, this doesn't rise to the level of "Important." I substituted
a white LED for an incandscent dial light. It's as simple a matter
as that. It worked. And it clashes with the information you have.
I have no doubt that's true. It's obvious that the information you
have is incomplete. There's no crime in that. I've got data sheets
for audio chips that are less than 6 months out of release. They're
already so far out of date as to be no more than a curiosity. If
you're comfortable with the information you have, by all means, you
be comfortable.

You know, this entire issue is laughable, in light of the fact
that if you really want to believe that nothing exists outside your
data sheets, you can always take the next highest available voltage
on the T/O: 3V. Or 4.5. It's simplicity itself to simply tap the
battery box in a different location until you get the voltage you wish.

I didn't do that. I worked fine. Maybe I used LED's from
another planet. I wouldn't know. They weren't marked. They were
bought 100 for a buck at a hamfest in Waukesha. Same hamfest where
I bought 5 peltier junctions for $15. I'm guessing Digi-Key says
those those don't exist, either.

I almost bought a pair of Altec A-2 speakers at the same show.
But let's not even BEGIN to address how I would have got THOSE home.

I gave you what information I had, and you dismissed it out of
hand. I gave you an easily accessible source of parts that do fall
outside the limits of your data, and you dismissed that out of hand,
as well. I answered each of your questions to allow you to see for
yourself, and you dismissed the answers out of hand.

If you think I'm going to go any further after that, you're
mistaken.


Now, I sincerely hope the rest of your weekend is as much fun
as mine. I'm going to go assist with one of the helicopter shuttle
crews at the race track.


Be still my heart.

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 13:02:47 GMT, D Peter Maus
wrote:
Can't somebody make an LED and a DC/DC converter in one little chip?

David wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 13:02:47 GMT, D Peter Maus
wrote:
Can't somebody make an LED and a DC/DC converter in one little chip?



I don't see any reason why not.

In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

D Peter Maus wrote:

Quite sure. I also found one at RS this weekend that is rated at
1.3 V.

I'd like to know who makes it and what the chemistry is. Standard
white LEDs are blue and use a phosphor to convert it to white light. I
have data sheets on over 100 different types of white LEDs and none are
under 3 volts.

Most the various color LED's I have seen are in the range Peter
indicated 1.7V -2.2V for fV but they lase before they reach their
forward voltage. They reach their specified light output power at the
forward voltage.

--
Telamon
Ventura, California

In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Peter Maus wrote:

Sure, I'll get on that. It's about a 50 drive from where I am.
For a stock number. Not a problem.


I didn't ask you to drive anywhere, I simply asked if you had the
part number of what you were talking about.

Try DigiKey. This is not the only place there goto

http://dkc1.digikey.com/US/PDF/T052/Section.html

and down load "Section O (1522-1584) - Optoelectronics, LEDs, LCDs,
Lasers, Displays"

--
Telamon
Ventura, California

"Telamon" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Peter Maus wrote:

Sure, I'll get on that. It's about a 50 drive from where I am.
For a stock number. Not a problem.


I didn't ask you to drive anywhere, I simply asked if you had the
part number of what you were talking about.

Try DigiKey. This is not the only place there goto

http://dkc1.digikey.com/US/PDF/T052/Section.html

and down load "Section O (1522-1584) - Optoelectronics, LEDs, LCDs,
Lasers, Displays"



Specifically, the first White, actually Ultra White LED I found that
operated at 1.5V is on page 1550 in the above PDF file. Made by Lumex and
under heading "DSP LEDs Low Voltage LEDs, 1.5V"

Quote: (Sorry about the spacing... Lousy OE Newsreader...)
KEY:
PKG Type, Emitted Color, Lens Color, Forward V (Min), Current ), mcd @
2V, Angle, Digi-Key Part#, Price each (1,10,100), Lumex Part#
5mm | Ultra White | Water Clear | 1.5V | 2.5 | 3000 | 30° | 67-1877-ND |
3.39 | 2.83 | 2.55 | SSL-DSP5093UWC

Here's a link to the Spec sheet for this LED...
http://www.lumex.com/images/pdf/SSL-DSP5093UWC.pdf
And webpage it was linked from:
http://www.lumex.com/product.asp?id=1006106

According to the SPEC sheet, it was dated just about 2-years ago, so I would
assume that these 1.5V white LEDs have been available at least that long...

Telamon wrote:

In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Peter Maus wrote:

Sure, I'll get on that. It's about a 50 drive from where I am.
For a stock number. Not a problem.


I didn't ask you to drive anywhere, I simply asked if you had the
part number of what you were talking about.

Try DigiKey. This is not the only place there goto

http://dkc1.digikey.com/US/PDF/T052/Section.html

and down load "Section O (1522-1584) - Optoelectronics, LEDs, LCDs,
Lasers, Displays"

--
Telamon
Ventura, California


Thanks. That was all I was asking for. The one I found in that
section was only 2.5 mA and has ESD warnings so they don't appear to be
as stable as the other white LEDS at a 3.6 volts.

--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Your "Computers for disabled Veterans" project was deleted after threats
were telephoned to your Church?
cuhulin