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Old March 18th 04, 01:13 AM
Roger Halstead
 
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On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 02:07:14 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:44:47 -0000, "Dave" wrote:

and as others have probably pointed out stay away from the silicone rubber
caulks and glass sealants, those usually give off an acid while curing (the
vinegar smell) that can etch the connector, and they just don't stay very
well sealed when coated on a connector.


They really aren't a problem when used out in the open and they stay
very well sealed on connectors "if the connector was clean" when the
Silastic RTV (TM) was applied.

Now: OTOH *most* of the RTV family, regardless of who made it, depend
on moisture to cure. They are water proof, not moisture proof.

However the noncorrosive stuff has Alcohol in it. It doesn't smell
like Alcohol. It just stinks. There is never any doubt as to which
you have in hand.


_________________________________________________ ________

If you want to use the silicone seal type stuff, get some at a pet shop
that is rated for aquariums. The look and feel is identical to the


I built two rather large aquariums...many years back and used plain
old fashioned bath tub calk. Smells like vinegar, and is corrosive
when used in confined spaces.

Built the aquariums, let cure for two days, poured in water on the
third, looked for leaks, changed water and put in fish on the 4 th
day. Fish survived.


vinegar-smelling stuff, but non corrosive. If it's safe for fish, it's
safe, period.


It's mostly all safe when not used in confined spaces.
At work we used the stuff for years, but then we picked up some
circuits that were to be used in a rather hostile environment. They
came potted with a RTV silicone. In about 6 weeks the first failed.
With only two exceptions they all failed within the next two weeks.

When I took the first one apart I suggested we might want to get some
replacements on order and to hurry! It had eaten the foil right off
the PC board.

When it comes to weather proofing I'll stick with "Liquid Electrical
Tape" as my first choice, flooded heat shrink as a second (First for
splices) and "Coax Seal" (TM) as a third. I also have a habit of
coating all connections on antennas with about 5 coats of clear Krylon
(TM) with enough time between coats for the stuff to dry. Then it
gets a coat or two, or three of Liquid electrical tape. Usually I use
the bright red on antenna connectors.


Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com