In , w_tom wrote:

If in sandy loom, then a single ground rod may not be
sufficient. Neighborhood history will apply. Previous
lightning damage in the last ten years? If so, then the
single point ground may be expanded with more rods; spaced as
Frank suggests and to comply with NEC. Other alternatives
include looping the house with a buried bare copper wire. But
again, this is typically only required for high 'strike
frequency' locations - more a function of neighborhood
geology.


Sandy loam is better than average not just for grounding, but also for
ground-wave propogation and gardening. Regardless, it's the subsoil that really
matters. Unless you live in the desert, one good rod is enough to provide a
direction for the lightning to travel, which is the basic purpose. Any ground,
even one in poor soil, can be improved by running radials from the rod, which is
far better at dissipating a lightning strike than using multiple ground rods.
The only exception to this is, as I stated before, when the main ground rod is
located next to a basement. In that case, tie the ground rods together, but
maintain a central grounding point at the main ground rod ('star' grounding).
And avoid loops!


A problem with the water idea is a loose ground rod.


Again you are talking about things about which you know nothing. Most of the
dirt that is displaced by the rod doesn't make it to the surface, although you
do get wet while going down those first couple feet. The resulting mud settles
down into the gap and hardens like concrete. Once you turn off the water and let
it set for an hour or so, you couldn't pull the blasting thing out with a
backhoe. And there is only about a foot or two near the surface that needs to be
filled which is easily done by rinsing the muddy splatter back into the hole.


A
ground rod must be firm in ground when installed. A loose
ground rod is not earthed. Ground rod is further compromised
if using threaded joints.


If the threads were exposed it would probably -improve- the efficiency of the
ground by increasing the surface area. But since they aren't, the point is moot.


Ground rod should be monolithic
until well below frost line.


Pipes burst when water is trapped as it freezes. Both the top and bottom of the
pipe are open, therefore no bursting. And since the bottom is open, there should
be no standing water to freeze -- unless you put it there just to make your life
more complicated.


If antenna is not located near to service entrance and
single point ground, then antenna may require its own earth
ground. This in addition to the coax ground. IOW either the
antenna is part of your structure and earthed at the service
entrance ground; or antenna is earthed as if a lightning
rod.


Depends on the antenna.


If the antenna connection to earth ground is
significantly shorter than connection to service entrance,
then antenna must also have its own earth ground rod located
as directly under the antenna as possible. This so that
lightning takes a short path to earth; does not seek
alternative paths via other items such as chimney or interior
wire.


First off, if the line from the antenna to the grounding rod is shorter than the
line from the grounding rod to the shack, it might be time to do a little
research on alternative antenna systems. Second, and it seems you missed this
point the first three times, electricity (lightning included) will take ANY AND
ALL paths to ground that are available. It will easily jump from an antenna to a
chimney, interior wire, plumbing vent, phone line, or anything else it finds to
be a convenient path to earth AS WELL AS the antenna! Anytime the voltage in the
path = the spark-gap potential it WILL arc, and to whatever it arcs WILL become
a parallel current path. If you think that all the current will go to the
closest ground rod and ignore any electrically connected ground path further
away, or any other potential ground path connected or not, then you have
ABSOLUTELY NO CLUE what you are talking about regarding electricity.


If installing for commercial broadcaster reliability, then
the inductor from center core is additional protection. But
most industry professionals say the center conductor will leak
sufficiently to the outer shield making no center conductor
connection necessary.....


Well, I'm going to stop here because this is worse than beating a dead horse.
You clearly don't know what you are talking about, and you are very bad at
making stuff up to try and hide your ignorance. I don't know what your
motivation is to spew your BS but there is no excuse for it. Even if you are a
vampire and the public library is only open during daylight hours, or you are
permanently confined to your bubble, or too fat to get out your front door, you
can still have a friend get some educational materials for you. Or have you
****ed off all your friends by feeding them the same BS that you are trying to
pass off in here? Don't bother answering, because I really don't care and it
would probably be more BS anyway.

Just a word of advice: Most of the people in this newsgroup aren't as
technically gullible as you might think (at least not any more). If you want to
show people how intelligent you -really- are, quit with the BS and learn a
little more about the subject.







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