Jack Painter wrote: 
 
 "starman"  wrote 
  Jack Painter wrote: 
   
   "starman"  wrote 
    Jack Painter wrote: 
     
     "starman"  wrote 
     
       A low noise inverted-L will have the vertical downlead at the far 
 end 
   of 
      the horizontal section with the balun located at the lower end of 
 the 
      single wire downlead, near the ground. Then you can run coax back 
 to 
   the 
      house from the balun. The near end of the horizontal section 
 shouldn't 
      be too close to the house where it might pick up noise. 
      
      The 'low noise inverted-L' (paragraph above) can make a big 
 difference 
      in lowering the noise that the antenna picks up from local 
 sources. 
      
     
     There is not one ounce of truth to an "Inverted-L" being ANY quieter 
   than a 
     45 degree random wire, and especially a horizontal-dipole, which is 
     generally quieter than any antenna with a vertical component. Most 
     interference is vertically polarized, and the verticals, 
 random-wires, 
     slopers, or inverted-L antenna designs all pick up more vertically 
   polarized 
     "noise" than a horizontally polarized antenna. Adding a vertical or 
 even 
   a 
     45 degree sloped component to an antenna DOES make it less 
 directional 
   than 
     a horizontal, and that is all it does. Any noise-limiting realized 
 from 
     these designs comes strictly from the grounded-Balun and not the 
 design, 
     configuration or dimensions of the antenna. Shield-grounding (for 
 static 
   and 
     lightning protection) at the feedpoint will achieve 99% of the 
     noise-limiting benefit that a grounded Balun does. The missing 1% is 
 an 
     equal loss of signal and noise through the Balun. All RF noise (but 
 not 
   all 
     energy has RF components) is coupled right across the Balun 
 windings, 
   their 
     function of electrically decoupling is true of some DC energy, but 
 not 
   RF 
     energy, which is rather efficiently coupled across the Balun by 
 design. 
     
     The same application of a grounded-Balun works equally well on both 
 the 
     random (straight) wire antennas and inverted-L antenna btw.  Both 
 the 
   random 
     wire and inverted-L benefit from (require in most cases) a 
 counterpoise 
     ground or radials to provide effective transmitting. Neither a 
   counterpoise 
     nor radials affect reception from the either the random wire or 
   inverted-L, 
     however. 
    
    I think you've missed the point. A so called 'low noise' inverted-L is 
    intended to reduce noise on the feed line to the receiver which comes 
    from domestic sources like appliances in the home. This is not the 
 same 
    as the noise being received by the antenna wire itself. When the feed 
    line is part of the vertical section of the antenna, like the typical 
    inverted-L or random wire, it can pick up noise from the domestic 
    environment. The solution is to use a coax feed line which connects to 
 a 
    balun near the ground. The vertical section of the antenna comes down 
 to 
    the balun. This allows for a short RF ground from the coax shield to 
    earth which decouples the noise on the shield. 
   
   Well I didn't mean to miss the point, and I'm afraid you're far off base 
 in 
   suggesting that an inverted-L radiates part of the feedline or that 
 feedline 
   (coax-shield) noise has anything to do with an antenna configuration. 
 The 
   use of coax minimizes feedline noise, and shield-grounding the coax 
 further 
   reduces noise from either being brought into the shack or carried to the 
   antenna from the shack. In an inverted-L, either a Balun or a choke is 
   always used to prevent inadvertent feedline radiation. The vertical 
 portion 
   of the end-fed inverted-L is where the feedline ends and the antenna 
 begins. 
   
   The real noise-limiting design of any beverage-style or inverted-L wire 
   antenna is to ground one half of the Balun output. This is whether the 
 coax 
   shield is grounded earlier or not. That does affect signals picked up on 
 the 
   antenna wire itself, although experts are not agreed as to whether there 
 is 
   a measurable improvement in signal to noise ratio as a result of this. 
 As 
   Telemon mentioned, having a counterpoise or good RF ground could make a 
   difference there. In my particular case, there is a marked improvement 
 in 
   signal strength and possibly some reduction in noise when the connection 
   from ground rod to Balun is made. I also transmit through this antenna 
 with 
   pretty good results. The original concept of grounding one-half of a 
   current-type wire-fed Balun for noise limiting came from an 1980's issue 
 of 
   Fine Tuning's PROCEEDINGS. I was borrowing the issue from a friend and 
   cannot remember the original author of this but I don't believe it was 
 the 
   venerable John Doty to which it is lately accredited. 
  
  If the coax shield of an inverted-L does not have a good RF ground, 
  which requires a short ground wire to earth, the domestic noise on the 
  shield can couple to the center conductor of the coax where it connects 
  to the antenna. The noise will then become part of the antenna signal to 
  the radio. That's the point I think you missed. 
 
 OK I didn't restate the obvious, agreed. 
 
 The best place to terminate the antenna and mount the Balun is *at* the 
 ground rod, which means the connection is about 4 inches long. Ty-wrap the 
 Balun to the protruding ground rod. After applying coax-seal to the 
 wire-wrapped and then soldered connections, cut the bottom and slit one side 
 of a plastic beverage bottle to just fit over the Balun and tape the bottle 
 shut afterwards. Spray paint the bottle with bow-flex cammo and it becomes 
 part of the background, and weather-proofed for years of service. Some 
 designs advise terminating the vertical drop of the inverted-L about 6 feet 
 above ground. That's more important for a center fed or off-center fed 
 (dipole type) antenna than the end-fed wires. Users should have no problems 
 terminating the inverted-L at ground level, and sink a good ground rod (with 
 buried radials if you desire) at that same point. 
 
I mounted my balun in a plastic electrical junction box with a cover 
gasket, the kind used with plastic conduit. The ground wire to the rod 
is about 2-feet long. 
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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