Before you burn up everything put the correct fuse in the radio. It should
be a 6A. If it's dimming the lights in the room then it's too big.

--
Clif Holland, KA5IPF
AVVid
Authorized Kenwood and Icom Amateur Service
www.avvid.com
1-800-214-5779


"Douglas Harrington" wrote in message
om...
I have tuned it up into a dummy load and the problem still occurs in
dummy load mode. Its not the antenna or tuner. Although the dummy
load IS inside the tuner. Im 100% new to electronics, well, maybe 75%
at least , so I don't know much about the internal workings or how
to change things inside other than the potentiometers and tubes. I
will tell all of this info to the rig owner tommorow and see what he
says/can do about it. 73 all and keep the posts coming if you folks
have any more info that could help me

73 De KB1JEC
Seekonk, MA, USA
On HF Soon (hopefully)


"G. Skiffington" wrote in message
...
Howdy Douglas...In your post, the one thing that jumped out at me was
your statement "But then, whether I was keying or not, the needle slowly
started to rise, slow at first, then faster and faster until it pegged
and then the lights on the radio flickered quickly and the room lights
dimmed, the rig making the arcing noise again". This more sounds like
a bias problem, and would be a typical sort of problem I've seen in rigs
of the era whereby the bias voltage to cutoff the tube during receive
starts to fail causing the tube to conduct.....more conduction=more heat
and it degenerates into the sort of symptoms you've described. Typical
things could be shorted screen or cathode bypass capacitors or even a
bad zener diode used to regulate screen voltage (the rig escapes me at
the moment). Check in your manual (hopefully) to see what the idling
current should be.....if set high, for example this could aggravate the
problem. It's been at least 10 years since I stuck my head inside a 520
so circuit details don't come to mind to help further. Best of luck.

73 - Gord VE1AJF