The correct size for homebrew equipment is the following:

1) The size that you feel most comfortable with.
The experimenter's code is "Nothing is permanent".

Bill W0IYH

GM Bill, good to hear you up and about. The curmudgeon (Sorry all you
curmudgeons for the insult) that started this thread hasn't the common sense
or native intelligence to pose the question. He's just there to troll and
present his agenda that he is better than others. Obviously the answer is
"as big as it needs to be to house the intended materials" and not the other
way around. I put the poor soul in my plonk box some time ago and hadn't
seen hide nor hair of him in some time until your byline showed up.

I still haven't found my stray resonance in my MRF-150's that causes the
gain dip at 32 MHz. Haven't looked real hard for it since it's so eminently
flat from 2-30, it's just that it's also useable on 50 MHz and there's just
a little 4 dB droop that comes right back up above 35-36 MHz. What with the
state of the solar cycle, and with what my age for the next one will be, I
suspect I shouldn't be so concerned about it.

I know that with your design philosophy, your 150's are going to last
forever, but just in case you ever get a thunderstorm in CR that does you
dirt, there's an awfully good buy running around on E-Bay at the moment. ERB
Engineering built the solid drivers for the tube amps for MRI machines and a
large number of them have turned up on the surplus market. They include a
pair of MRF 150's as well as a LOAD of other goodies and usually go for less
that the price of a singleton. They don't have the matched pair codes, and
with the computer controlled bias the way they set them up they can get away
without them, but they DO have the same batch codes on both the ones I
bought. Search on MRF-150 amplifier.

Regards

W4ZCB