Here's are some other ideas from the metalworking newsgroup:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...readm=20010319
151227.24203.00002372%40ng-fx1.aol.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dflitz%2Balu
minum%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3D20010319151227.24
203.00002372%2540ng-fx1.aol.com%26rnum%3D1
But my favorite is Flitz
http://www.flitz.com/
-dave
"Steve Nosko" wrote in message
...
"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
No Spam wrote:
That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the
cause
of
the corrosion.
Which is what? Air?
wheel polish should work just fine.
de ah6gi/4
Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms
a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic.
Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction
with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really
eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove
or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum.
-Chuck Harris
Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide
layer.
It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. In air, Aluminum
instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely
protect it. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows
thicker
and unevenly causing the pitting. Perhaps there are other mechanisms.
Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers
attack the aluminum as well...
There is also a popular aircraft aluminum polish. Don't recall the name.
--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.